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      11-25-2008, 11:52 AM   #23
BlackjackMulligan
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Redbread, thanks. I told the dealer not to prep it on the outside so hopefully I'll avoid their swirls. I have a PC random orbital which I will apply the Menz with (85rd?), then go over it with Z2 Pro by hand. Sound good?
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      11-25-2008, 12:12 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by BlackjackMulligan View Post
Redbread, thanks. I told the dealer not to prep it on the outside so hopefully I'll avoid their swirls. I have a PC random orbital which I will apply the Menz with (85rd?), then go over it with Z2 Pro by hand. Sound good?
That should do nicely. 85rd and 87mc are so similar, I don't notice any differences, except 85rd seems to be a little dryer out of the bottle. My car sat on the lot for a few weeks, so was washed a few times by the dealer. It needed to be clayed and a pass with a cutting pad before completely correcting all of the swirls, sounds like you'll have an easier go of it.

Are you using Z2p with ZFX? Zaino can be a little tricky in cold weather, but ZFX makes it easier to handle. I occassionally use Klasse SG in cold weather instead, or did, until I moved out here, where cold just doesn't happen!
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      11-25-2008, 01:25 PM   #25
BlackjackMulligan
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Interesting comment about the temperature. I'll be in a garage (only heated residually from the house), probably around 45 to 50 degrees F. I will be sure to mix with ZFX, thanks for the tip!
Do you prefer the 85rd over the 87mc?
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      11-25-2008, 03:05 PM   #26
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85rd is a ceramic clear product, so ideally, it's for MB paint, so I generally use 87mc as it was designed for conventional clear. They're very, very similar though, so I wouldn't sweat it if you already have one.

You'll be fine on temps, so long as you're out of the really cold air. Synthetics tend not to like cold and/or humid conditions, but all that really happens is the dry/cure time goes up. If you can garage the car over night and give it plenty of time to cure, you'll be just fine.
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      11-25-2008, 03:35 PM   #27
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I would use 106FF then 85...the dealer tends to put fine swirls and holograms in the paint...106FF will take care of that...and if you are good you can finish with just 106ff
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      11-25-2008, 05:23 PM   #28
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I would use 106FF then 85...the dealer tends to put fine swirls and holograms in the paint...106FF will take care of that...and if you are good you can finish with just 106ff
Please quantify "if you are good".......what does that mean? Good at applying the polish? Good with an orbital?? etc....

I would classify myself as "good" in terms of polishing with a PC orbital, but certainly don't have professional detailer talent. I'm looking for the best, moderately difficult finish for a brand new car with potential slight swirls in the finish.
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      11-25-2008, 05:32 PM   #29
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106ff is great on many, many colors, but unless you're really well trained on a random orbital, it seems to haze or mask just a little on non-metallics like my Imola Red and Jet Black cars. It's almost always the final step I use on any metallic paints, even the ex's metallic black Audi. For Jet Black, I'd stick with 85rd or 87mc to get that last little bit of pop.

It can certainly be done with 106ff, and I've met guys that could probably get even more aggressive polishes to really pop with a rotary, but most people will have more success with a milder approach, not that 106ff is aggressive. See, I'm splitting hairs!
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      11-25-2008, 06:13 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackjackMulligan View Post
Please quantify "if you are good".......what does that mean? Good at applying the polish? Good with an orbital?? etc....

I would classify myself as "good" in terms of polishing with a PC orbital, but certainly don't have professional detailer talent. I'm looking for the best, moderately difficult finish for a brand new car with potential slight swirls in the finish.
use 106 with a white pad and finish with 85 and a black :thumbup:

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106ff is great on many, many colors, but unless you're really well trained on a random orbital, it seems to haze or mask just a little on non-metallics like my Imola Red and Jet Black cars. It's almost always the final step I use on any metallic paints, even the ex's metallic black Audi. For Jet Black, I'd stick with 85rd or 87mc to get that last little bit of pop.

It can certainly be done with 106ff, and I've met guys that could probably get even more aggressive polishes to really pop with a rotary, but most people will have more success with a milder approach, not that 106ff is aggressive. See, I'm splitting hairs!

haha tooooo many variables bro...and i use a Flex DA and a Metabo rotary :thumbup:
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      11-25-2008, 06:54 PM   #31
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haha tooooo many variables bro...and i use a Flex DA and a Metabo rotary :thumbup:
Absolutely agree that there are too many variables, but I still hold that the casual user will fair better using a friendlier last polish than 106ff, at least on a solid, non metallic finish. But it's also not a certainty, as stated there are way too many variables, it's best just to try a few things and see what you're happy with.
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      11-25-2008, 07:57 PM   #32
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use 106 with a white pad and finish with 85 and a black :thumbup:
Thanks for the advice. The one piece I don't get: Isn't 85 a polish? Shouldn't it be sealed after use with, say, FMJ or Z2p?
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      11-25-2008, 08:44 PM   #33
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Thanks for the advice. The one piece I don't get: Isn't 85 a polish? Shouldn't it be sealed after use with, say, FMJ or Z2p?
Yeah, but I think both of us have probably said "finish" when referring to a polish. We're just saying that it should be the last polish before applying a top coat of Z2p, FMJ or whatever wax like substance you might choose to try.
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      11-25-2008, 11:10 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Yeah, but I think both of us have probably said "finish" when referring to a polish. We're just saying that it should be the last polish before applying a top coat of Z2p, FMJ or whatever wax like substance you might choose to try.
exactly
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      11-26-2008, 09:05 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Bread View Post
Yeah, but I think both of us have probably said "finish" when referring to a polish. We're just saying that it should be the last polish before applying a top coat of Z2p, FMJ or whatever wax like substance you might choose to try.
Ok, got it guys. Thanks again, I'll be sure to post pics of the finished product (not till Feb or March!)
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      11-26-2008, 09:14 AM   #36
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What issues should I expect using Zaino in the cold? I wanted to redo my car on Friday, but it's only supposed to be in the low 40's. Anything I should be aware of or avoid?
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      12-01-2008, 12:04 PM   #37
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What issues should I expect using Zaino in the cold? I wanted to redo my car on Friday, but it's only supposed to be in the low 40's. Anything I should be aware of or avoid?
I've found that it takes a very long time to cure fully, and can be a little streaky if you remove it early. Of course a wipedown with Z6 will usually remedy this. More than anything, it just makes getting three coats on in a reasonable time much more difficult.

If it's dry and cold, you shouldn't have too much trouble. If it's humid and cold, that's when I've noticed the longest cure times. ZFX does seem to help more than Z1 did, but it's still noticeably longer than when it's warmer.
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      12-14-2008, 11:08 AM   #38
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I believe the products you use is only 10-20% of the whole detailing process. The rest of the 80% is the methods or toolings and how much skills/elbow work you put into it.

Heres what I achieved by using only Meguiar's products+a good machine polisher.
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