05-12-2015, 09:41 AM | #155 | |
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05-13-2015, 03:02 PM | #156 | |
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05-13-2015, 07:36 PM | #157 |
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I had to send the shocks to the Ohlins dealer on the other side of the country so my car was out of action for a bit over a week. I could have put the OE shocks back in but I was happy to wait. Having driven the car a little more now I am really happy with the decision, its a good improvement in ride quality and i think the rear is a bit more predictable. I'm going to set the ride heights to the 1M recommendations which is different to the M3 ohlins documentation then i'll get a good wheel align.
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05-13-2015, 08:06 PM | #158 | |
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05-13-2015, 08:13 PM | #159 |
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sure, the ohlins dealer charged for 4.5hrs labour and parts which worked out around $600 and the springs cost $180 each so all up around $1000 plus postage for me. This is AU dollars, things in US cost a lot less.
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12-29-2015, 03:36 PM | #160 |
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4.5 hours sounds about right. Shop rates can range from $60-150 here in the US depending on location.
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04-18-2016, 03:59 AM | #161 | |
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I'm tossing these up vs the JRZ RS1/Eibach option. Both have local support, so no difference there really, but keen to read that you're happier with the ride quality now vs when you first installed them. |
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01-02-2018, 06:47 AM | #162 |
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Bringin up an old thread.
I recently purchased an used 1M Ohlins RT kit, but I think there is parts missing in the back when I compare to the parts list. Do any one have a picture of whats included in their kit/box? I think the rear dust covers are missing or do you use the stock ones? And it looks like the flexible adjusters have been cut in 2 or shortened? There is two washers included in my kit (upper right in the picture), do you re-use all the other parts from the top mounts in the Last edited by salis; 01-02-2018 at 07:33 AM.. |
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01-02-2018, 10:46 AM | #163 |
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Dust boots are definitely missing, but should be easy to get from Ohlins. The dust boots are exactly the same front and rear, so are there extras packed with the fronts?
I honestly don't remember how long the adjuster cable was, but can't imagine why anyone would cut them.
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01-02-2018, 11:37 AM | #164 | |
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Well since the seller told my he used the old dust boots it wouldn’t suprice me if he have cut the cables of some reason too.. If I look at the other pictures in this thread of the original adjusters they look longer. |
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01-02-2018, 01:27 PM | #165 |
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Rear extenders do look like they've been trimmed.
http://www.hpashop.com/Ohlins-RT-E9x...-extenders.htm Mine are original length and they don't protrude very far beyond the trunk liner. When the suspension is unloaded (e.g. up on jackstands) they are flush up against the liner so I'd suspect shortened extenders might pose a problem in this scenario. |
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01-03-2018, 02:32 AM | #166 | |
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Noticed some of my text in the original post was lost. Except the missing dust covers and faulty adjuster cables, do I only need to transefer the old top mounts to complete the rear suspension setup? |
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01-03-2018, 10:44 AM | #167 | |
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No the cables aren't affected, but the length of the cable may only allow the knob to barely extend beyond the trunk trim. When we were selling adjuster extender kits only, shorter cables were used but later on, we went to the longer ones. |
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01-07-2018, 09:39 AM | #168 |
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I never used the supplied adjusters, purchased AST flexible ones which are more durable. Also, having one of the 1st 1M specific kits, my Ohlins were missing a few parts as well. Ended up using a needle rolling bearing kit.
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03-28-2018, 02:30 PM | #169 |
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Hi guys I noticed that most of you install an aftermarket camber plate together with the R&T. Anyone running the Ohlins without aftermarket camber plate?
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03-29-2018, 07:07 AM | #170 | |
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Single handedly the best mod I have done to the car. They are amazing. |
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03-29-2018, 09:16 AM | #171 |
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I installed the Vorshlag camber plates 1 year before the Ohlin's, so I can comment on each.
The camber plates alone made a huge difference. Extra camber up front (0.5-1.0 degrees more negative than the rear) helps this car eat corners even on the stock suspension. The steering response and feedback was also significantly improved, probably due to the solid spherical upper mounts in place of the stock rubber mounts. When I installed the Ohlins, I foolishly dialed out some camber trying to save tread wear, and was disappointed. This year I have put it back to higher camber (-2.7 front, -2.2 rear) and haven't found the limit yet, really impressed. I am also running a square setup. As for the Ohlin's and the Camber plates, I think they contribute differently, but equally in the handling improvement. The difference in install time is negligible other than setup and adjustment of the camber plates. I did it myself, so doing it twice only cost me time. I'd vote for doing both at once, especially if you pay for the labor.
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07-27-2018, 01:48 AM | #172 |
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Can anyone tell me what length Öhlins Road and Track rear adjusters extensions they used? The ones with the kit are very short and I want to make sure they are long enough to clear the trunk liner. Öhlins makes 4 lengths: 2.5”, 5”, 11” and 15”. I would like to keep them as short as possible.
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07-28-2018, 05:13 PM | #173 | |
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09-05-2018, 08:50 AM | #174 |
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Just got my Ohlins (used set)
And am very excited to get it installed! Not sure I understand the springs preload though. Do we have to run recommended preload measurement as per Ohlins manual , regardless what ride height we get the car to be. Also does the preload change based on what the car is used for primarily.. street , track... Thanks guys |
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09-05-2018, 08:54 PM | #175 |
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When I installed mine, the fronts were preloaded to spec just by tightening the top mount down to proper torque, as measured from the upper to lower perch. The preload adjuster ring is all the way down and if anything I was 1mm shorter, but that is the only way the front will go together. Ride height is completely independent on the front, and is adjusted by the position of the spindle perch.
On the rear, I got my ride height adjusted to where I want it using the threaded adjustable upper spring perch (which the Ohlins instructions refer to as the "preload adjuster". I then adjusted the shock body until there was no slack in the spring when the car is on the lift. At the recommended shock length, the spring was actually loose at my selected ride height which is only about 4mm lower than stock.
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07-27-2019, 12:36 PM | #176 |
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hi all ,i have just had Ohlins r&t fitted to my 1m 100 miles ago asked the mechanic to set car up as Ohlins recommend, from stock my ride hight passenger front is now10mm higher drivers side is stock hight now, rear passenger is 10mm lower rear drivers is 5mm lower, ride hight has not settled/changed since install 4 days ago, is this normal and how long should I wait until I take back to mechanic to adjust, also when moving rear adjusters I cannot feel or hear any clicks how much does knob turn to get a click I am worried I will break it, hole has been cut in carpet at 12mm should it be made bigger, and one of the front springs has writing upside down is this a problem can springs go either way up, with thanks mods : Bmw performance seats, mtc motorsport charge pipe, brembo 380 bbk, akrapovic slip on with sound kit ,n55 mid pipe, f10 550i clutch Ohlins r&t
Last edited by micky 1m; 07-27-2019 at 01:36 PM.. |
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