BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      03-19-2009, 12:43 PM   #67
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Ive been in a 328 loaner since yesterday and it does indeed start in first in DS mode. I looked at the revs in M1 at 20 mph and then compared to the revs at 20mph when I did a semi aggressive start in DS it hit the same rev at 20.
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      03-19-2009, 03:25 PM   #68
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      03-19-2009, 04:06 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by hector View Post
agree! i find the "catapult" feature particularly useful when attacking an enemy castle; get's me right over that gator-filled moat and wall>.

lol

almost made choke on my pb&j sandwich...
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      03-20-2009, 01:01 AM   #70
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You "thought" you purchased a sports car, but you really purchased a coupe and then put a slushbox on it. Sorry, friend.
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      03-20-2009, 02:52 PM   #71
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6MT doesn't make it a sports car either. losing two rear seats make it a sports car. That's the definition.

lots of people don't realize that in DS the gears go from 1 through 5, and never goes to 6.

Shifting the STEP in manual mode is OK. Occasionally on downshifts I'd shift into 1st gear and the car jerks around funny. start moving in 2nd gear in manual mode works out fine.
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      03-20-2009, 04:07 PM   #72
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      03-20-2009, 11:04 PM   #73
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Too bad, absolutely love stick. If so happens, then... Z4M!!!
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      03-21-2009, 09:35 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyc74 View Post
We've got some first time manual owners here though, better to make sure they don't get the wrong impression about things like this. I'd hate for one of them to burn up a clutch because they're trying to acheive the mythical 3rd gear launch.
Excellent point. (and +++ on the "mythical 3rd gear launch" concept. )

Quote:
if you want to save yourself a gear change around town, it's better to take off in 1st, then skip to 3rd or 4th once you're moving, instead of starting in 2nd, just because of the clutch wear.
Hmmmmm .... Gonna give that some thought and trial.
Thx.
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      03-21-2009, 09:50 AM   #75
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6MT all the way! no regrets,period.
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      03-21-2009, 10:50 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyc74 View Post
Still, in the case of the 135i (and most cars) I'm of the opinion that if you want to save yourself a gear change around town, it's better to take off in 1st, then skip to 3rd or 4th once you're moving, instead of starting in 2nd, just because of the clutch wear.
You only wear out the clutch if the clutch is re-engaged when the difference between engine rpm's (at the flywheel) and transmission rpm's (at the cluch disk) are significantly different. This difference translates into slippage, until the two rpm's match up. As long as the driver is able to shift at the right point, and adjust the engine speed to the new rpm's of the new gear ratio, it won't matter how many times you shift - you woin't really wear out the clutch. (I think most cluch wear actually happens from a standing start, when people pre-rev their engine too high, instead of feathering it while starting out).

If you are a great driver and really know your car, you shouldn't need the clutch to shift gears at all! You can shift gears simply by adjusting the speed of the engine to match the new gear you are selecting. But this is not recommended for most of us. Of course, this doesn't work on the track, but around town on level pavement it can be surprsingly easy to do. Feather the gas pedal until you feel almost no resistance on the gearshift knob, then slip it into neutral. Then choose the new rpm of the gear you are shifting into at the speed you are going at, and you will be able to slip into the new gear without the clutch. You might want to try this on a friend's car first though!
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      03-23-2009, 10:08 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManMachine View Post
lots of people don't realize that in DS the gears go from 1 through 5, and never goes to 6.
It will shift into 6th, but it won't shift until you reach the redline in 5th. I know because my E46 5 speed Auto in DS mode would stay in 4th and not shift into 5th until youi maxed out 4th gear.
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      03-23-2009, 10:22 AM   #78
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has this thread run its course yet?
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      03-23-2009, 10:26 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lester View Post
You only wear out the clutch if the clutch is re-engaged when the difference between engine rpm's (at the flywheel) and transmission rpm's (at the cluch disk) are significantly different. This difference translates into slippage, until the two rpm's match up. As long as the driver is able to shift at the right point, and adjust the engine speed to the new rpm's of the new gear ratio, it won't matter how many times you shift - you woin't really wear out the clutch. (I think most cluch wear actually happens from a standing start, when people pre-rev their engine too high, instead of feathering it while starting out).

If you are a great driver and really know your car, you shouldn't need the clutch to shift gears at all! You can shift gears simply by adjusting the speed of the engine to match the new gear you are selecting. But this is not recommended for most of us. Of course, this doesn't work on the track, but around town on level pavement it can be surprsingly easy to do. Feather the gas pedal until you feel almost no resistance on the gearshift knob, then slip it into neutral. Then choose the new rpm of the gear you are shifting into at the speed you are going at, and you will be able to slip into the new gear without the clutch. You might want to try this on a friend's car first though!
Exactly. I shift without the clutch on my cars/motorcycles with ease. Heck, an old Mustang 5.0 I had broke a clutch cable and once we pushed the car I shifted without the clutch 5 miles to the dealer. Just never stopped.
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      03-23-2009, 10:26 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by izzodesh View Post
has this thread run its course yet?
Yes.
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      03-23-2009, 10:30 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwzone View Post
Exactly. I shift without the clutch on my cars/motorcycles with ease. Heck, an old Mustang 5.0 I had broke a clutch cable and once we pushed the car I shifted without the clutch 5 miles to the dealer. Just never stopped.

It can be done, but I'm going to tell you right now that the 135i doesn't like it much. The retaining popits that hold the car in gear are pretty stiff (which is where the "notchyness in the transmission comes from) and it's very hard to feel when it's ready to come out of gear without putting a considerable amount of pressure on it. Same thing when going back into gear.
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      03-23-2009, 10:31 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lester View Post
You only wear out the clutch if the clutch is re-engaged when the difference between engine rpm's (at the flywheel) and transmission rpm's (at the cluch disk) are significantly different. This difference translates into slippage, until the two rpm's match up. As long as the driver is able to shift at the right point, and adjust the engine speed to the new rpm's of the new gear ratio, it won't matter how many times you shift - you woin't really wear out the clutch. (I think most cluch wear actually happens from a standing start, when people pre-rev their engine too high, instead of feathering it while starting out).
The clutch wear will be higher when taking off in second gear though. That's the whole point.
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      03-23-2009, 10:34 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyc74 View Post
It can be done, but I'm going to tell you right now that the 135i doesn't like it much. The retaining popits that hold the car in gear are pretty stiff (which is where the "notchyness in the transmission comes from) and it's very hard to feel when it's ready to come out of gear without putting a considerable amount of pressure on it. Same thing when going back into gear.
Agree. I've never shifted without the clutch on my 135i. This was on Mustangs and other beater machines. Motorcycles easily and often though.
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