CA smog check woes

[germ]

My 135 was going to limp mode relatively frequently, and also showed the SES light. Scanning would give Error 6 (small EVAP leak) code. Last week, suddenly the SES light disappears. At the same time, the car now tells me that it needs service. I am not sure if a simple service interval triggered this, because previously it would tell me that service was due 3000 mi away.

Anyway, with SES off I tried to do the smog check. It did not pass because some readiness flag failed. Those are Oxygen sensor and Catalytic converter. Not sure exactly what brought the reset of those flags, but I am now going to drive 60-70 mi and try again. I am on the original (2008) battery. No signs of battery abnormality.

Advice? Should I look at replacing the oxygen sensor? If it fails, shouldn't I get a fault code?

[edisapimp]

Did you consider taking it for service? Or perhaps attempting to diagnose/fix the problem?

[germ]

I was finally able to pass the smog check and I am posting the below resolution in the hope that it may help somebody.

First, the "service" indicator: I figured out this was for "brake fluid service", probably triggered by a two year timer. I simply reset this and it went away. (I know, I will do this myself but not right now).

Second, I finally figured out that there is such a thing as "OBD-II drive cycle". Google it. I followed that procedure 3 times and lo and behold, the system was ready. I can tell you that I would NEVER have gone through that process in my normal driving no matter how long I would drive the car. I still don't know what triggered the reset of those indicators

The SES "low EVAP leak" has not come back.

Sadly, the "engine malfunction/limp mode" still happens regularly. I will have to get that fixed.

[Top Gon]

Can you post the OBDII driving cycle that you followed. My 1er passed emissions last week but failed readiness also even after driving around for 100 miles.

[ilikebmxbikes]

Originally Posted by germ

I was finally able to pass the smog check and I am posting the below resolution in the hope that it may help somebody.

First, the "service" indicator: I figured out this was for "brake fluid service", probably triggered by a two year timer. I simply reset this and it went away. (I know, I will do this myself but not right now).

Second, I finally figured out that there is such a thing as "OBD-II drive cycle". Google it. I followed that procedure 3 times and lo and behold, the system was ready. I can tell you that I would NEVER have gone through that process in my normal driving no matter how long I would drive the car. I still don't know what triggered the reset of those indicators

The SES "low EVAP leak" has not come back.

Sadly, the "engine malfunction/limp mode" still happens regularly. I will have to get that fixed.

When was the last time your changed your spark plugs? I had limp mode due to a bad plug. I also changed a coilpack for good measure and hadnt experienced it ever again.

[germ]

Originally Posted by Basheezy

Can you post the OBDII driving cycle that you followed. My 1er passed emissions last week but failed readiness also even after driving around for 100 miles.

Tank must be between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Never exceed 3000 RPM during the drive cycle. Cycle must be repeated twice successfully for the system to come ready.

1. Cold start. Back up from garage and let the car idle for 3 min. With AC fan at max. And rear defroster on
2. Turn off defroster, AC on auto. Drive off and get on the freeway. Accelerate to 55 mph and drive for 3 min. (I used the cruise control)
3. Put car in 4th (mine is a 6 MT). Enter emergency lane and coast to 20 mph WITHOUT using the brakes
4. accelerate back to 55 and drive for another 5 min. At speed between 50 and 60

[germ]

Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes

When was the last time your changed your spark plugs? I had limp mode due to a bad plug. I also changed a coilpack for good measure and hadnt experienced it ever again.

Ah yes, spark plugs are the first thing I tried. Replaced at 45 k. No effect.

[ilikebmxbikes]

Originally Posted by germ

Ah yes, spark plugs are the first thing I tried. Replaced at 45 k. No effect.

Did you do scan the car for codes? Could also be coil packs

[Top Gon]

I dunno how I'm gonna be able to do to coast thing. There's not much of a shoulder on the freeway near me and my car is a 6at so it's gonna try to Rev match slowing down from 50 to 20. So there's gonna be some throttle input in the process.

This is a shitty process that we have to go through :/

Can this be done while the drive wheels are in the air?? lol

[germ]

Originally Posted by Basheezy

I dunno how I'm gonna be able to do to coast thing. There's not much of a shoulder on the freeway near me and my car is a 6at so it's gonna try to Rev match slowing down from 50 to 20. So there's gonna be some throttle input in the process.

With AT, I would just let the car coast down to below 20 mph.

Originally Posted by Basheezy

This is a shitty process that we have to go through :/

Agreed!

Originally Posted by Basheezy

Can this be done while the drive wheels are in the air?? lol

I would think that this could be done on rolls at a shop. Not sure if it would work with wheels in the air (that is, with the engine having almost no load).

[germ]

Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes

Did you do scan the car for codes? Could also be coil packs

The iOS app I am using for reading codes does not pick up all the codes, it returns nothing. The shop I brought it to for an unrelated problem mentioned that HPFP could be involved, so I may try my luck at the stealer. If it's coil packs, shouldn't I get a specific fault code?

I can now bring about the engine malfunction almost at will: Just accelerate hard entering a freeway and it will happen almost every time.

[Top Gon]

Originally Posted by germ

With AT, I would just let the car coast down to below 20 mph.



Agreed!




I would think that this could be done on rolls at a shop. Not sure if it would work with wheels in the air (that is, with the engine having almost no load).

went back again today after driving another 100 or so miles and it finally passed

Time to turn the JB4 back on