Rear subframe (all bushings)

[dsocold]

Has anyone Done it?? Im talking m3 bushings as well as the 4 trailing arm bushings and the lower control arm inner and outter bushings.
I purchased them all from ecs photo for reference of what im talking about.

Whats the labor go for something like this and am i going overboard. One of my trailing bushings were squeaking when it was cold a month ago so o figured since i got 142k miles its time to just drop the subframe and do all bushings plus add the guide rod and wishbone from the m3. I am also doing motor and trans mounts at the same time. Keep in mind i already ordered all these parts so i mine as well replace them. I am expecting to pay about 1500. If anybody had them all replaced or can chime in with the labor amount they paid for doing all rear subframe bushings

[Mybimmer]

Yep I just replaced every bush on the car (135i), including diff bushes. I used whiteline poly bushes. The car steers so much better, more planted and the power really get down to the road now. The diff bushes I did a few weeks later as I noticed one was cracked while working on the other bushings. The diff bushes made the most difference in getting power to the road. NVR only went up slightly after diff bushes replaced.

I replaced them myself. All up it took me 2 days to do the front and backs (including beer and talking shit with the neighbor). The diff bushings took about 2.5 hours. The total job is very easy if you have the right tools.

[dsocold]

Originally Posted by Mybimmer

Yep I just replaced every bush on the car (135i), including diff bushes. I used whiteline poly bushes. The car steers so much better, more planted and the power really get down to the road now. The diff bushes I did a few weeks later as I noticed one was cracked while working on the other bushings. The diff bushes made the most difference in getting power to the road. NVR only went up slightly after diff bushes replaced.

I replaced them myself. All up it took me 2 days to do the front and backs (including beer and talking shit with the neighbor). The diff bushings took about 2.5 hours. The total job is very easy if you have the right tools.

can you please tell me which tools you used for each bushing ?

[Mybimmer]

Sure I used this kit https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/26Pc-Pre...72.m2749.l2649

a shop press and a heat gun will help in getting the subframe bushes out. Note the kit above is sufficient to do the entire job, a shop press is not required only it makes the job much quicker. The front bushes are easy. The rear end is more difficult. Best plan of attack is to drop the entire rear sub frame diff and all on to the floor. Makes the job much easier. You'll have to crack the brake lines to drop the frame so you'll need some fresh brake fluid to bleed the brakes as well.

[tock172]

Replacing most of the bushings beneath one of these cars (everything you need listed here and here on ECS) is pretty much the ultimate upgrade. Instead of the suspension being designed to cope with RunFlat tires, the M3 bushings are more performance oriented and allow the car to handle and drive the way it should have from the factory.

All of that being said, the subframe specifically is the most expensive part of an already expensive endeavor. At your mileage, however, it's likely time for most of these bushings to be replaced as it is. Might as well go with the M bits, right?


Many people on this forum have chosen to run the rear subframe bushing insert kit made by Whiteline and a few others. In my opinion, there's absolutely no substitute for running the running the real deal M3 bushings.

[dsocold]

Originally Posted by tock172

Replacing most of the bushings beneath one of these cars (everything you need listed here and here on ECS) is pretty much the ultimate upgrade. Instead of the suspension being designed to cope with RunFlat tires, the M3 bushings are more performance oriented and allow the car to handle and drive the way it should have from the factory.

All of that being said, the subframe specifically is the most expensive part of an already expensive endeavor. At your mileage, however, it's likely time for most of these bushings to be replaced as it is. Might as well go with the M bits, right?


Many people on this forum have chosen to run the rear subframe bushing insert kit made by Whiteline and a few others. In my opinion, there's absolutely no substitute for running the running the real deal M3 bushings.

i completely agree. I am running koni yellows all around with Hr sport springs, as well as the m3 front upper and lower control arms with new shock mounts, tie rods. I also have 225/255 Michelin Pilot super sports.... My n54 is runing stage 2 e50 ots mhd and the backend just feels horrible. I already ordered the m3 guide rod and wishbone as well as the complete rear subframe bushing kit from ecs (m3 spec). I however did not get differential bushings which i probably should be doing right now.. anything else comes to mind while im back there i figured tie rods as well but besides that i think thats all.. Thanks to everybody chiming in, besides the rear subframe bushings there is not much talk about all the other bushings/balljoints, I assumed people would do them all once they mess with the subframe to begin with... Im doing motor and trans mounts as well for good measure..

[dsocold]

Originally Posted by Mybimmer

Sure I used this kit https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/26Pc-Pre...72.m2749.l2649

a shop press and a heat gun will help in getting the subframe bushes out. Note the kit above is sufficient to do the entire job, a shop press is not required only it makes the job much quicker. The front bushes are easy. The rear end is more difficult. Best plan of attack is to drop the entire rear sub frame diff and all on to the floor. Makes the job much easier. You'll have to crack the brake lines to drop the frame so you'll need some fresh brake fluid to bleed the brakes as well.

damn.. you got me tempting to do the job by myself.. Thus far every mod i got i hve installed myself ( dp,intercooler,stg2 lpfp, hpfp, walnut blast, front m3 arms, koni yellows, and a few more things... I have a friends garage i can use but he doesnt have a lift so it would have to be done on jack stands...

[Mybimmer]

If you've done those jobs already and you have good tools then you'll be fine. I did mine on jack stands.

[Zombie_Head]

Originally Posted by tock172

Replacing most of the bushings beneath one of these cars (everything you need listed here and here on ECS) is pretty much the ultimate upgrade. Instead of the suspension being designed to cope with RunFlat tires, the M3 bushings are more performance oriented and allow the car to handle and drive the way it should have from the factory.

All of that being said, the subframe specifically is the most expensive part of an already expensive endeavor. At your mileage, however, it's likely time for most of these bushings to be replaced as it is. Might as well go with the M bits, right?


Many people on this forum have chosen to run the rear subframe bushing insert kit made by Whiteline and a few others. In my opinion, there's absolutely no substitute for running the running the real deal M3 bushings.

I had a very lengthy argument with someone on babybmw forums about those inserts, i insisted that the correct way was to get the bushing off a new one in, inserts are not a proper way (my opinion) to do things, besides the cars are now hitting 6+ years old, rubber tends to be hard and brittle and signs of cracking start, last thing i would like to do is to add inserts and cause more load on them.

[dsocold]

Originally Posted by Mybimmer

Yep I just replaced every bush on the car (135i), including diff bushes. I used whiteline poly bushes. The car steers so much better, more planted and the power really get down to the road now. The diff bushes I did a few weeks later as I noticed one was cracked while working on the other bushings. The diff bushes made the most difference in getting power to the road. NVR only went up slightly after diff bushes replaced.

I replaced them myself. All up it took me 2 days to do the front and backs (including beer and talking shit with the neighbor). The diff bushings took about 2.5 hours. The total job is very easy if you have the right tools.

which diff bushings did you use ? stock, m3, or aftermarket. Do you have an lsd that made a difference or just the bushings alone did it

[tock172]

Originally Posted by Zombie_Head

I had a very lengthy argument with someone on babybmw forums about those inserts, i insisted that the correct way was to get the bushing off a new one in, inserts are not a proper way (my opinion) to do things, besides the cars are now hitting 6+ years old, rubber tends to be hard and brittle and signs of cracking start, last thing i would like to do is to add inserts and cause more load on them.

I completely agree. My mechanic used harsher words than myself, referring to the inserts as, "snake oil" which should be avoided in favor of doing a full pushing swap. The inserts are simply transferring load to another part of the suspension.

[Mybimmer]

Originally Posted by dsocold

which diff bushings did you use ? stock, m3, or aftermarket. Do you have an lsd that made a difference or just the bushings alone did it

I used the Whiteline items. No LSD. I replaced the diff bushes as 1 had a slight tear in it. The difference was big. Much more stable power to the ground and predictable loss of traction Of course the subframe and other bushes also had a part to play here. IMO if you are going to replace subframe bushes then do all of them as you will have to do them sooner or later.

[Zombie_Head]

Originally Posted by tock172

I completely agree. My mechanic used harsher words than myself, referring to the inserts as, "snake oil" which should be avoided in favor of doing a full pushing swap. The inserts are simply transferring load to another part of the suspension.

It is still a very lengthy job, i believe at least 4 hours could be six.

If all goes well for me, my plan is to get an LSD and replace the RSB at the same time.

[tock172]

Originally Posted by Zombie_Head

It is still a very lengthy job, i believe at least 4 hours could be six.

If all goes well for me, my plan is to get an LSD and replace the RSB at the same time.

I want an LSD too, but I can't seem to compartmentalize the cost. Which unit are you going with? I've been told to go with either Quaife or Wavetrack.

[chris_flies]

Originally Posted by tock172

I want an LSD too, but I can't seem to compartmentalize the cost. Which unit are you going with? I've been told to go with either Quaife or Wavetrack.

I'm eyeing an MFactory 1.5-way unit swapped into a 328i Auto (3.73 ratio, bolted ring) pumpkin. Planning to do all the mechanical swapping myself...

About the subframe bushings, I'm perfectly happy with the inserts, they made a profound difference in how the car handles, but I also have M bushings waiting to be installed when I have some down time with the car, which is a rare joy for me. I chose to do the inserts for two reasons; 1) didn't have the right tools to do front position bushings, and 2) didn't have enough time to do it right, when I did the inserts.

I also have diff bushings to install, again, when time permits. M ones for the front positions and a Powerflex for the rear. To the OP, you might also want to look into a diff lockdown bracket if you plan on putting down really serious power. I've heard good things around these parts...

[MAMSport]

Quick question - is replacing bushings the best way to go, or is it more effective to upgrade to the M3 suspension arms/tension struts front and rear? Most of my suspension arms have already been upgraded to M3 pieces (rear trailing arms are ECS parts instead), and RSFBs are coming soon. Not withstanding the diff bushings, are there other bushings that need to be addressed?

[dsocold]

i will let you know when i get my rear subframe out and swap every bushing on it. But since i do have the front m3 arms i must say for me they made a huge difference, but for the rear end the subframe bushings are the main link to the chassis so no matter how much you spiff up the back it will only expose the weak subframe bushings more and more and it will feel horrible.
I have koni yellows and hr sport springs in the back and the way the rear end drives over 30mph when accelerating or turning is just unacceptable really.. I havent even done it yet and i cant believe i have owned this car for 6 years without doing it but atleast i am doing within the nezt 2 weeks and im pretty hyped to see the results first hand.

on a side note my friend n55 2011 135i doesnt feel nearly as squirmly in the back as mine must be from the stock shocks and springs so if you are stock you might not notice it.

[FrostyDC4]

This is a big job & you need to be careful getting the subframe bushings out. I didnt do this with my 1er but I did this with my 350z and on that car (rear subframe & control arm bushings, rear diff bushing, and front upper & lower control arm bushings and the difference is night & day. The rear doesnt hop or bounce when coasting or applying power while going over undulations and bumps. Plan on at least 10-12 hrs to do the job.

Originally Posted by Mybimmer

If you've done those jobs already and you have good tools then you'll be fine. I did mine on jack stands.

My condolences

[NinjaDog]

Originally Posted by Mybimmer

Yep I just replaced every bush on the car (135i), including diff bushes. I used whiteline poly bushes. The car steers so much better, more planted and the power really get down to the road now. The diff bushes I did a few weeks later as I noticed one was cracked while working on the other bushings. The diff bushes made the most difference in getting power to the road. NVR only went up slightly after diff bushes replaced.

I replaced them myself. All up it took me 2 days to do the front and backs (including beer and talking shit with the neighbor). The diff bushings took about 2.5 hours. The total job is very easy if you have the right tools.

Was this the kit you installed?

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...=WEK007&sq=621

[Mybimmer]

Originally Posted by NinjaDog

Was this the kit you installed?

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...=WEK007&sq=621

No I bought them all individually as the kit only includes the subframe inserts, which IMO are a waste of time.

[chris_flies]

Looking to do some more bushings in the future; install the M3 subframe bushings that I have lying around, M3 front diff bushings, Powerflex Purple rear diff bushing, and possibly some Powerflex Black bushings for the rear lower control arms, toe arms and trailing arms. Anyone here have experience with the Powerflex Black bushings?

[dsocold]

mines getting it done now decided to use a pro to do it, screw it... i will write a review of what a difference it made afterwards but i will drive it for a week or so before i do...