Use 135i gauge cluster on 128i?

[Brake_L8]

I'm curious if this would work. I hate how the 128's don't have any sort of temperature gauge to indicate if things are okay, if I can beat on the motor yet, etc etc.

The 135i's have (I think) an oil temp gauge in their cluster. I've seen a few people swap 1M clusters into 135's and it got me thinking - could the 135 cluster work on the 128 and be plug & play?

Anyone know if the sensors are there to give a reading to that oil temp gauge? I already know the new cluster would have to be coded to the car and have a friend who can do that.

[3002 tii]

I thought the 1M cluster swap was only for the dial faces, but not the entire electronics. I think these clusters are linked to each key so you cannot swap clusters easily. But that's just my best guess.

Have you tried an OBD reader that can connect via Bluetooth to your phone? You may be able to get readings that way (more useful while on track as where you might have your phone acquisition data app running in front of you).

[Brake_L8]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

I thought the 1M cluster swap was only for the dial faces, but not the entire electronics. I think these clusters are linked to each key so you cannot swap clusters easily. But that's just my best guess.

Have you tried an OBD reader that can connect via Bluetooth to your phone? You may be able to get readings that way (more useful while on track as where you might have your phone acquisition data app running in front of you).

It seems people are just plugging the clusters in. And the 135 --> 1M swap does work without a re-code, just leaves some parameters displaying wrong.

I'd do the OBD reader thing, but it's clunky and not really the solution I want. The car isn't a track rat (the M3 has that duty covered) but knowing when oil was up to temp would be helpful regardless.

Frankly, I wish the oil temp gauge was a coolant temp gauge so I knew precisely when my water pump shat itself, since that's inevitable on these silly cars.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by Brake_L8

It seems people are just plugging the clusters in. And the 135 --> 1M swap does work without a re-code, just leaves some parameters displaying wrong.

I'd do the OBD reader thing, but it's clunky and not really the solution I want. The car isn't a track rat (the M3 has that duty covered) but knowing when oil was up to temp would be helpful regardless.

Frankly, I wish the oil temp gauge was a coolant temp gauge so I knew precisely when my water pump shat itself, since that's inevitable on these silly cars.

I get what you're saying. I guess they didn't feel the need to put a gauge because the n52's generally do not have an overheating issue. In terms of the water pump, I don't think you can really see it coming even with the gauge since the failure is in the electronics, so it won't be a slow death. When it happens, it happens. I replaced mine at 65k, early I know but I didn't want to be stranded especially if I was at a track 300 miles away.

[Brake_L8]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

I get what you're saying. I guess they didn't feel the need to put a gauge because the n52's generally do not have an overheating issue. In terms of the water pump, I don't think you can really see it coming even with the gauge since the failure is in the electronics, so it won't be a slow death. When it happens, it happens. I replaced mine at 65k, early I know but I didn't want to be stranded especially if I was at a track 300 miles away.

Yeah, I hear ya. I guess I'm a bit old-school and over-think the car, since I'm used to the E36s with super-fragile cooling systems.

Didn't realize the N52 WP failure was electronic. I knew the pump was electric but figured it'd be a leaky seal or something. Weird.

65k sounds like a good interval for the WP - it's expensive, but not as expensive as a warped head from an overheat, or a big tow bill home.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by Brake_L8

Yeah, I hear ya. I guess I'm a bit old-school and over-think the car, since I'm used to the E36s with super-fragile cooling systems.

Didn't realize the N52 WP failure was electronic. I knew the pump was electric but figured it'd be a leaky seal or something. Weird.

65k sounds like a good interval for the WP - it's expensive, but not as expensive as a warped head from an overheat, or a big tow bill home.

65k is on the early end but I figured better to play it safe. I did WP, T-stat and oil filter housing gasket all at once.