Improving steering response/feel and floatiness

[joe86]

Adding front camber can also make a huge difference in the corners it can be done with m3 control arms or dinan fixed camber plates or both. Also before anything, unless recently done, replace your front tension arm bushings.

[chris82]

Originally Posted by joe86

Adding front camber can also make a huge difference in the corners it can be done with m3 control arms or dinan fixed camber plates or both. Also before anything, unless recently done, replace your front tension arm bushings.

What will that yield? Any specific benefit over doing any of the other bushings up there?

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by joe86

Adding front camber can also make a huge difference in the corners it can be done with m3 control arms or dinan fixed camber plates or both. Also before anything, unless recently done, replace your front tension arm bushings.

Well, the front tension bushing gets upgraded when you install the M3 front arms. The M3 arms include the lower control arm, and the tension rod. The M3 version of the tension rod has a solid rubber bushing which replaces the stock fluid filled bushing. This reduces the movement from the wheels front to back when braking or cornering.

[aloksatoor]

I have the akg monoballs for FTABs. Pretty darn good upgrade. I did not go with the m3 arms since going with vorshlag plates anyways. There is some noise but not much added harshness. Going with a mason strut bar soon to cure some of the annoying dash rattles.

[Mernardi]

I did the following in this order

1. 225/255 Conti DW tires for DD - any tire is a huge improvement over the run flats.
2. M3 FSB - didn't notice much difference with the otherwise stock suspension.
3. Powerflex black series inserts - helped reduce rear wiggle. Haven't driven a 1 series with M3 bushings so I can't comment what difference there is other than ease of install.
4. Diff brace - Reduced wheel hop and improved exiting corners.
5. M3 front and rear arms, Megan toe arms - Could tell going into corners felt better, especially with the added camber up front.
6. BC Coil overs with swift springs - Best bang for the buck and probably should have done these first with tires. Pretty much no body roll now. Camber plates up front are great for track days.

[potxoli]

Originally Posted by Mernardi

4. Diff brace - Reduced wheel hop and improved exiting corners.

Hi,

Where did you get your diff brace for DCT? Do you have stock power?

thanks!

[joe86]

Originally Posted by chris82

What will that yield? Any specific benefit over doing any of the other bushings up there?

The factory tension arm bushings don't last that long. They are fluid filled and the fluid leaks out which can cause excess wheel movement/clunking over bumps and at low speed sharp brake application. I don't know if cpo covers them but you should upgrade them to m3 or aftermarket. Upgraded tension arm bushings can give you better steering feel. You can replace this bushing separately from the arm with special tool/press. Or you can buy the M3 arm with bushing installed. I compared the m3 tension arm and 135i tension arm side by side and the m3 tension arm appears to be exactly the same except for the bushing. The only other bushing up front is the small one in the wishbone (I call it the control arm). The M3 wishbone replaces the bushing with a ball joint and adds camber, camber=more grip less understeer.

[John_01]

I wouldn't recommend putting M3 bushings into the stock arms. Its a nice idea, but IMO its too hard unless you have some handy tools to compress the bushing while it is simultaneously pressed into the arm. The Meyle HD tension strut is an interesting alternative that I have not tried. The full M3 control arm set is probably the best idea overall, as the cost is probably no more than you would pay in labour and tooling to upgrade your stock arms.