N55 E88 First Mods!

tjswarbrick · 08-06-2015, 06:43 PM

I picked up my stone-stock 2012 6MT M-Sport DSM/Oyster baby just over a month ago. I am very happy with her, but want to make 'er "mine."

She's my DD. Though I'd love to try an autocross one day, and plan to do a HPDE course next year and squeeze in the occasional track day, it's not a race car, my wife - the sole reason it's not an E82 - will (occasionally) drive it, my kids will ride in it, I commute ~ 40 miles a day, and will take it on road trips about 250 miles each way every couple months - along with blasting the back roads and twisty bits of Northern California when I can break away from other responsibilities.

Just ordered the K&N Drop-in filter and CDV Delete modded valve.

Considering a ZHP knob, not becuase there's anything wrong with the M-Sport one, but because I think it's gorgeous, it may fit my (XL) hand a bit better, and the perforated leather doesn't really match anything else in the car (save a couple inches on each side of the steering wheel.) What's the concensus - worthwhile? Or a waste of time?

Anything else you guys recommend, drivetrain-wise, to make it a sportier drive when hustled - "the way BMW should have done it from the factory" - without sacrificing the smoothness, refinement, and entry-luxury afforded by getting a BMW in the first place? Don't want to make it obnoxious, annoying, or less enjoyable when shuttling people about town or on the freeway.
As a singular example: I'd love the PE for shooting along the 2-lane on the weekends, but won't get it due to drone on the highway slog.
(If there's an axleback exhaust that'll give me a little more pop, sizzle, and volume at WOT without droning or adding much volume at cruise & part throttle - that would be a consideration.)
Also, I'm in Cali so no downpipe, CAT-changing, or emissions-messing mods for me.

Right now, I'm not looking for anything earth-shattering or overly expensive - just enhancing the sporting character without drastically altering the car.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

- Tom

tracer bullet · 08-06-2015, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

won't get it due to drone on the highway slog.

IMO the drone is a bit exaggerated. Yes it's there but it's a pretty narrow RPM band and only present when cruising at that RPM band. It's pretty easy to bump +5mph or shift from 5th to 6th to make it go away. PE may still not be something you want, but don't read too much into the drone. It's far less obnoxious than just about any other option.

RSFB (rear sub frame bushings) seem to be the #1 mod for people. It'll significantly improve the handling without significantly degrading the ride. I've got the parts myself just haven't yet installed them, so I can't say this from personal experience. But it's the overwhelming opinion from everyone that has.

BMW135pls · 08-06-2015, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Right now, I'm not looking for anything earth-shattering or overly expensive - just enhancing the sporting character without drastically altering the car.

You stand on the apex of a slippery slope, and are about to make your first step. I wanted the same as you, but then I succumbed to the sunk cost fallacy and power addiction like so many others before me. AND IT IS SO MUCH FUN!!!

Congrats on the grab, good luck with the mods, but know what you are getting yourself into. This platform is VERY mod-friendly, so you might get swept up into it further than you anticipated. The essential mods for this car are fairly simple. Non-runflat tires, JB4, Rear subframe bushing swap. Most other things are secondary for a daily driver, but those are the big ones.

Cavpilot2k · 08-07-2015, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

IMO the drone is a bit exaggerated. Yes it's there but it's a pretty narrow RPM band and only present when cruising at that RPM band. It's pretty easy to bump +5mph or shift from 5th to 6th to make it go away. PE may still not be something you want, but don't read too much into the drone. It's far less obnoxious than just about any other option.

RSFB (rear sub frame bushings) seem to be the #1 mod for people. It'll significantly improve the handling without significantly degrading the ride. I've got the parts myself just haven't yet installed them, so I can't say this from personal experience. But it's the overwhelming opinion from everyone that has.

+1
The "drone" from the PE is more a factor in the AT/DCT cars than the MT due to common cruise RPM difference. I have it and I love it and experience nothing I would consider drone except a brief transient period when accelerating lightly between 2000 and 2300 RPM, but not at steady-state cruise.

Also RSFB will really help stabilize the back end, and if you don't want to put much money into it, you can get the Whiteline bushing inserts. That's what I did. Best $50 (plus installation) you can spend.

One more cheap and nice mod: The BMS short throw clutch stop. It's like $10 and reduces overtravel of the clutch pedal, which in turn allows faster shifting and a better seating position, since the clutch foot won't travel so much further than your other foot.

tjswarbrick · 08-07-2015, 08:13 AM

Thanks guys.
Bushings and non-RFTs are a for sure. They're just not "powertrain" so I started a similar thread in Suspension.
Interesting note on clutch stop. I had been wondering what that was about.

Thinking of JB4 or another tune down the road but their Not For California warning got me all freaked out. Any CA residents running it willing to comment? Do you need to pull it to pass sniff test or visual inspection?
Wouldn't I then need FMIC and improved radiator and oil cooler?

tracer bullet · 08-07-2015, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k

+1
The "drone" from the PE is more a factor in the AT/DCT cars than the MT

Good point, I have MT and I do tend to forget that non MT cars may run differently.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Wouldn't I then need FMIC and improved radiator and oil cooler?

FMIC and charge pipe are the typical recommendations. The former for additional cooling capacity, the latter for increased boost pressures. Radiator, oil cooler, etc. would depend on how you use your car. For tracking, definitely, but for the occasional on-ramp, not really.

tjswarbrick · 08-27-2015, 01:55 PM

Alright. First thing is to improve throttle response and driveability - i.e. get the available power to be there whenever it should. No pauses, and reduce lag.

K&N Drop-in and CDV-Delete mod part are in the garage.
Clutch Stop and ER Charge Pipe are on their way.

I feel myself sliding down a slippery slope...

Looking forward to the ride.

edisapimp · 08-27-2015, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMW135pls

You stand on the apex of a slippery slope, and are about to make your first step. I wanted the same as you, but then I succumbed to the sunk cost fallacy and power addiction like so many others before me. AND IT IS SO MUCH FUN!!!

What this guy said!

Do a lot of searching and reading on the forums, and you'll have most of the information you are looking for. Most of what you're curious about has been discussed ad nauseam, and you will learn everyone's perspective on what's best to do first with just a bit of poking around here!

Good luck, and Happy Motoring!

MightyMouseTech · 08-27-2015, 02:16 PM

I would do the PPK and maybe try the PE without installing the resonator delete. Although, I don't find it drones with the full system installed. I have a MT.

135TX · 08-27-2015, 03:46 PM

I say go for the ZHP knob, really feels great I installed it yesterday and it's fantastic ( had the performance knob before and this one is better IMO). However beware you may want to buy another shift boot ad the stock one is glued on to the bottom of the stock knob. You can remove it but its a bitch and you could mess it up in the process.

Exhaust options= Maddad Whisper ( my current setup, F*&%ing love it even with cattless dps, not too loud, Dinan perfect for stock downpipes or BMW Performance same situation...

The rest has been said above- Michellin pilot supersports, RSFBs and id say a cobb AP if your ECU can be flashed ( some 2012s can some cant- check VIN with Cobb)- great thing about the flash is you can always undo it for the state inspection..

Shameless plug: I have Dinan Exhasut I'll be putting up for sale, IMO it sounds excellent, and no drone- reason for getting rid of it- way too loud with cattless dps but that wouldnt be a problem for you!

tjswarbrick · 08-27-2015, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 135TX

I say go for the ZHP knob, really feels great I installed it yesterday and it's fantastic ( had the performance knob before and this one is better IMO). However beware you may want to buy another shift boot ad the stock one is glued on to the bottom of the stock knob. You can remove it but its a bitch and you could mess it up in the process.

Exhaust options= Maddad Whisper ( my current setup, F*&%ing love it even with cattless dps, not too loud, Dinan perfect for stock downpipes or BMW Performance same situation...

The rest has been said above- Michellin pilot supersports, RSFBs and id say a cobb AP if your ECU can be flashed ( some 2012s can some cant- check VIN with Cobb)- great thing about the flash is you can always undo it for the state inspection..

Shameless plug: I have Dinan Exhasut I'll be putting up for sale, IMO it sounds excellent, and no drone- reason for getting rid of it- way too loud with cattless dps but that wouldnt be a problem for you!

Thanks guys.
Was checking yesterday and see a ZHP knob in my future. But wanted to optimize stock clutch before worrying about it - spring needs some grease, too. Appreciate the tip on the boot. Was trying to avoid that...

In the videos, I don't care for the MadDad Whisper sound. Was thinking to get the PE (down the road) and sell off the mid-pipe. But if a Dinan comes up, and the price is doable, I'm open! (PM me when you're ready to sell...)

Power is actually really great and more than I need (I know, I say that now.) I'm thinking I'll go for a PPK flash if I still desire better response, a bit more oomph, and more pops/burbles, after the above is handled. Trying to take it in steps, go for quality, maintain driveability, refinement and dependability, and optimize/enhance rather than change/go overboard.

SuperSports, RSFB's, and M3 bar are in my future - but my RFT's still have LOTS of tread so that's out a ways. And a different thread!

Really appreciate the tips, guys. All of you.

BMW135pls · 08-27-2015, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Thanks guys.
Was checking yesterday and see a ZHP knob in my future. But wanted to optimize stock clutch before worrying about it - spring needs some grease, too. Appreciate the tip on the boot. Was trying to avoid that...

In the videos, I don't care for the MadDad Whisper sound. Was thinking to get the PE (down the road) and sell off the mid-pipe. But if a Dinan comes up, and the price is doable, I'm open! (PM me when you're ready to sell...)

Power is actually really great and more than I need (I know, I say that now.) I'm thinking I'll go for a PPK flash if I still desire better response, a bit more oomph, and more pops/burbles, after the above is handled. Trying to take it in steps, go for quality, maintain driveability, refinement and dependability, and optimize/enhance rather than change/go overboard.

SuperSports, RSFB's, and M3 bar are in my future - but my RFT's still have LOTS of tread so that's out a ways. And a different thread!

Really appreciate the tips, guys. All of you.

You should pick up a BMS oil catch can. It's relatively cheap, easy to install, and will stop or at least greatly slow the effects of blow by in these engines. In case you hadn't stumbled upon a thread that's mentioned it yet, these engines have a real problem with blow by intake carbonization. Anything you can do to remedy this is a step toward a more reliable and lower maintenance vehicle.

http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_335_oil_catch_can.html

Methanol injection helps to keep the intake from accumulating carbon deposits as well... but that's for later

tjswarbrick · 08-27-2015, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMW135pls

You should pick up a BMS oil catch can. It's relatively cheap, easy to install, and will stop or at least greatly slow the effects of blow by in these engines. In case you hadn't stumbled upon a thread that's mentioned it yet, these engines have a real problem with blow by intake carbonization. Anything you can do to remedy this is a step toward a more reliable and lower maintenance vehicle.

http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_335_oil_catch_can.html

Methanol injection helps to keep the intake from accumulating carbon deposits as well... but that's for later

Talk about the slippery slope...
Hadn't seen that one.
If it cleans things up, and just catches oil that shouldn't be leaving anyway, why in the world wouldn't it be okay out here in CA?
Will do some more searching and reading...

BMW135pls · 08-27-2015, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Talk about the slippery slope...
Hadn't seen that one.
If it cleans things up, and just catches oil that shouldn't be leaving anyway, why in the world wouldn't it be okay out here in CA?
Will do some more searching and reading...

I'm not sure. I read something that said that in newer direct injection engines, some blow by was intentional, as the recycling of the oil into the engine intake helped to lower emissions. If this is true, then this may be the reason why you can't get a catch can in CA with their extremely strict emissions constraints.

tjswarbrick · 09-05-2015, 12:56 AM

We're meeting friends Saturday at the end of one of our local driver's roads that I haven't had opportunity to complete since I picked up the 1er!
So tonight, I:
Replaced the FILTHY Fram paper filter with a K&N I oiled 2 days ago - should be soaked in by now;
Popped in the extended clutch-stop;
Lubed up the interior clutch linkage;
Replaced the Start/Stop switch (old one was worn, and the bezel kept popping off);
Put some decent fabric-adhesive velcro on the back of the driver's floor mat.

Looking forward to the waves, good friends, and good food - but Crystal and I really can't wait for the DRIVE!

(Picked up a sensor O-ring and some DOT4 fluid. Later over the long weekend, when my lovely assistant is awake, I'll do the CDV-delete and ER CP swap. Then report back with my findings.)

tjswarbrick · 09-05-2015, 03:46 PM

Drat! Foiled again!

So, last night's install went smoothly and without a hitch. Fired 'er up just to make sure, and all looked and sounded perfect.

This morning, before heading out, the wife and daughter #1 needed to run an errand - perfect opportunity for daughter #2 *lovely assistant* and I to swap the CP...

I trunly cannot believe how simple this car is to disassemble. I mean, it took an hour and a half and I had to check the instructions a couple times to make sure I was going the right direction - but no skinned knuckles, no blood, no stuck bolts - half of it didn't even need tools. Had to fight with the silicone hose and bracket/grommet/bolt a tiny bit - but nothing out of the ordinary. Awesome.

Put back together, fired 'er up - and CEL! "Engine error. 1/2 power."
Doggone it - what went wrong? Checked the MAP and MAF, made sure everything was snug - and all seemed fine. So, rather than following the instructions "don't overtighten the clamps" - I just cranked 'em down HARD and tried again.
Perfect!

Runs like a dream. Didn't go on the freeway or anything - but around town it just feels (strongly) naturally aspirated.

BUT it turns out my FIL is coming to the beach with us. Which means we won't all fit in the 1er. Which means we're taking the Pathfinder. Which means I don't get to test the improvements for real just yet...
But so far, very pleased. And very encouraged - it is an easy platform to mod!

CDV-Delete coming over the next couple days...

BMW135pls · 09-05-2015, 10:51 PM

You definitely want to ignore those instructions and wrench those connections down tight. It's more of an issue when you run far above stock levels of boost. At one point after tuning for more boost, I was popping my CP every day just about, and had to be reconnected. I got tired of doing that, so got the largest screwdriver I owned and tightened the connections as tight as I could before I thought the CP might begin cracking. Haven't had an issue since

tjswarbrick · 09-05-2015, 11:09 PM

Good to know! I can't imagine cracking the aluminium CP but the instructions and an online post or two got me all paranoid about the lower IC pipe. But a quality clamp that tightens evenly all the way around shouldn't pose too much of a hazard. I'll put some boost through it tomorrow and see how it holds.

tjswarbrick · 09-08-2015, 12:04 PM

CDV-Delete was a little more trouble than I was expecting.
My ramps are a little low to provide necessary access - so my shoulder blades are really sore right now! Need something bigger for next time I go down there...

Access cover was a little weird - bent the metal bracket a bit, but couldn't get the cover all the way off - I couldn't align the slot with the aluminum ears in the bracket. So it behind me the whole time, which didn't make access any easier.
Clamped the soft line with a cloth and vise-grips. Valve clamp came up easy as pie. Coupling clamp is on the top, with no visibility, and a bracket blocking access. It was easy enough to pop it up from the bottom - at which point it flew out and landed on the cover right near my head. But getting it back in took a flashlight, needle-nose pliers, mirror, and screwdriver - and probably a 1/2 hr of fiddling.

After reading the horror stories here and picking up the 11mm offset ratcheting wrench from HF, bleeding was pretty straight forward. First press from Lovely Assistant netted nothing but air, second try (tightening bleed screw and pulling pedal up from floor in between) got some fluid out toward the end of the stroke, and third pass gooped all over the place. Level in the reservoir barely changed, so I didn't even use the pint of fluid I bought.

When I first tried the clutch myself, the action at the top of the stroke felt so light that I thought there must be air trapped inside. I proceeded to pump it 100 times, and it didn't change. I just noticed that it got firmer as it passed through its operating range. The CDV was no longer making me squeeze fluid through that tiny orifice on each and ever pass! So with the valve delete and the clutch stop it now feels like the clutch on a sprightly 4-cyl sports car - light, short, with great feel and no wasted effort. Brilliant!

Shifts are easy, quick, light, and smooth. So nice.

As far as the drop-in filter and bolt-on charge pipe - it seems to have smoothed out something in the power delivery. Car actually feels less turbocharged, or at least less peaky, than it did before the change. More rheostat than toggle switch. I guess I got used to that hit at 4500rpm catching me off guard - but now it's been tamed and spread out and doesn't feel as instantly strong. I know it's a better response overall, but I kinda miss the over-the-top kick-in-the-pants feel. Don't miss it in the twisties, though!

Very pleased with my first set of changes.
Need to wait a while to see what comes next.

mike@x-ph.com · 09-08-2015, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjswarbrick

Alright. First thing is to improve throttle response and driveability - i.e. get the available power to be there whenever it should. No pauses, and reduce lag.

K&N Drop-in and CDV-Delete mod part are in the garage.
Clutch Stop and ER Charge Pipe are on their way.

I feel myself sliding down a slippery slope...

Looking forward to the ride.

Make sure to post pics of your mods

I recommend you start with a Jb stage 1. Easy to install and uninstall, instant power + uneatable price

tjswarbrick · 09-17-2015, 01:56 PM

I've got problems.
Car is out getting a full stereo upgrade (front and underseat speakers, front sub, amps, DSP) - and I'm driving a serious penalty box of a Mitsubishi.
But I still couldn't help ordering a ZHP shift knob. My wife is gonna kill me.

I have a heat gun and have read at least 4 tutorials so hopefully I can get by without damaging the boot.

I'll try to snap some pics - including aforementioned CP- at least after they're done, but it's just never high on my priority list.
My audio shop does some pretty intensive build logs - if they post one for my car, is anyone interested in seeing it?

Forgot to mention - the replacement velcro only held for about 2 days, and my floor mat keeps sliding around under my feet. Not cool, feels wrong, looks bad, and could be unsafe. So I followed advice found elsewhere and used hardware to secure it. Started a new thread (with pics!) here:

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1172135

Has held for a week at least!
Replacement knobs were delivered today, but won't be installed until ZHP knob is after getting the car back from the audio shop.

tjswarbrick · 09-28-2015, 12:09 AM

Got a little help from Lovely Assistant. Mods completed.

Installed the ZHP knob. It was a piece of cake - except:
Using the heat gun, I got the spacer to separate from the knob, with the boot still attached.

So I tried to use that, with no zip tie. And things flopped around a bit. Took it back off, used the zip tie, and couldn't get the knob to snap in place (too much material above the snap ring, I think.) Next time, zip tie didn't capture all the boot material so there was a gap where my fingers go.
Finally got it right!:

I love it!
Interestingly, the M-Sport knob is quite weighted. I don't have a scale accurate enough to tell me how much it weighs, but in hand it really doesn't feel much lighter than the ZHP knob. And I guess I got rather used to the downward slope to the rear of the M-Sport knob - the ZHP one feels like it sticks up into my palm - though clearly it is flat. I think I'll acclimate quickly! It feels great in action.

I also got it back from the Stereo shop - they made a few changes.
Photo host has frozen up, so I'll be back.

08-06-2015, 06:43 PM	#1
tjswarbrick <(O0=[][]=0O)> 740 Rep 1,186 Posts Drives: 2012 N55 E88 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (1)	N55 E88 First Mods! I picked up my stone-stock 2012 6MT M-Sport DSM/Oyster baby just over a month ago. I am very happy with her, but want to make 'er "mine." She's my DD. Though I'd love to try an autocross one day, and plan to do a HPDE course next year and squeeze in the occasional track day, it's not a race car, my wife - the sole reason it's not an E82 - will (occasionally) drive it, my kids will ride in it, I commute ~ 40 miles a day, and will take it on road trips about 250 miles each way every couple months - along with blasting the back roads and twisty bits of Northern California when I can break away from other responsibilities. Just ordered the K&N Drop-in filter and CDV Delete modded valve. Considering a ZHP knob, not becuase there's anything wrong with the M-Sport one, but because I think it's gorgeous, it may fit my (XL) hand a bit better, and the perforated leather doesn't really match anything else in the car (save a couple inches on each side of the steering wheel.) What's the concensus - worthwhile? Or a waste of time? Anything else you guys recommend, drivetrain-wise, to make it a sportier drive when hustled - "the way BMW should have done it from the factory" - without sacrificing the smoothness, refinement, and entry-luxury afforded by getting a BMW in the first place? Don't want to make it obnoxious, annoying, or less enjoyable when shuttling people about town or on the freeway. As a singular example: I'd love the PE for shooting along the 2-lane on the weekends, but won't get it due to drone on the highway slog. (If there's an axleback exhaust that'll give me a little more pop, sizzle, and volume at WOT without droning or adding much volume at cruise & part throttle - that would be a consideration.) Also, I'm in Cali so no downpipe, CAT-changing, or emissions-messing mods for me. Right now, I'm not looking for anything earth-shattering or overly expensive - just enhancing the sporting character without drastically altering the car. Suggestions? Thanks! - Tom
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08-07-2015, 08:13 AM	#5
tjswarbrick <(O0=[][]=0O)> 740 Rep 1,186 Posts Drives: 2012 N55 E88 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (1)	Thanks guys. Bushings and non-RFTs are a for sure. They're just not "powertrain" so I started a similar thread in Suspension. Interesting note on clutch stop. I had been wondering what that was about. Thinking of JB4 or another tune down the road but their Not For California warning got me all freaked out. Any CA residents running it willing to comment? Do you need to pull it to pass sniff test or visual inspection? Wouldn't I then need FMIC and improved radiator and oil cooler?
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08-27-2015, 01:55 PM	#7
tjswarbrick <(O0=[][]=0O)> 740 Rep 1,186 Posts Drives: 2012 N55 E88 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (1)	Alright. First thing is to improve throttle response and driveability - i.e. get the available power to be there whenever it should. No pauses, and reduce lag. K&N Drop-in and CDV-Delete mod part are in the garage. Clutch Stop and ER Charge Pipe are on their way. I feel myself sliding down a slippery slope... Looking forward to the ride.
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08-27-2015, 02:16 PM	#9
MightyMouseTech Major General 4338 Rep 6,196 Posts Drives: 13 135i 6MT LeMans Blue MSport Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Ottawa, Canada iTrader: (0)	I would do the PPK and maybe try the PE without installing the resonator delete. Although, I don't find it drones with the full system installed. I have a MT.
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09-05-2015, 12:56 AM	#15
tjswarbrick <(O0=[][]=0O)> 740 Rep 1,186 Posts Drives: 2012 N55 E88 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (1)	We're meeting friends Saturday at the end of one of our local driver's roads that I haven't had opportunity to complete since I picked up the 1er! So tonight, I: Replaced the FILTHY Fram paper filter with a K&N I oiled 2 days ago - should be soaked in by now; Popped in the extended clutch-stop; Lubed up the interior clutch linkage; Replaced the Start/Stop switch (old one was worn, and the bezel kept popping off); Put some decent fabric-adhesive velcro on the back of the driver's floor mat. Looking forward to the waves, good friends, and good food - but Crystal and I really can't wait for the DRIVE! (Picked up a sensor O-ring and some DOT4 fluid. Later over the long weekend, when my lovely assistant is awake, I'll do the CDV-delete and ER CP swap. Then report back with my findings.) Last edited by tjswarbrick; 09-05-2015 at 01:48 AM..
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09-05-2015, 03:46 PM	#16
tjswarbrick <(O0=[][]=0O)> 740 Rep 1,186 Posts Drives: 2012 N55 E88 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (1)	Drat! Foiled again! So, last night's install went smoothly and without a hitch. Fired 'er up just to make sure, and all looked and sounded perfect. This morning, before heading out, the wife and daughter #1 needed to run an errand - perfect opportunity for daughter #2 lovely assistant and I to swap the CP... I trunly cannot believe how simple this car is to disassemble. I mean, it took an hour and a half and I had to check the instructions a couple times to make sure I was going the right direction - but no skinned knuckles, no blood, no stuck bolts - half of it didn't even need tools. Had to fight with the silicone hose and bracket/grommet/bolt a tiny bit - but nothing out of the ordinary. Awesome. Put back together, fired 'er up - and CEL! "Engine error. 1/2 power." Doggone it - what went wrong? Checked the MAP and MAF, made sure everything was snug - and all seemed fine. So, rather than following the instructions "don't overtighten the clamps" - I just cranked 'em down HARD and tried again. Perfect! Runs like a dream. Didn't go on the freeway or anything - but around town it just feels (strongly) naturally aspirated. BUT it turns out my FIL is coming to the beach with us. Which means we won't all fit in the 1er. Which means we're taking the Pathfinder. Which means I don't get to test the improvements for real just yet... But so far, very pleased. And very encouraged - it is an easy platform to mod! CDV-Delete coming over the next couple days...
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09-05-2015, 10:51 PM	#17
BMW135pls First Lieutenant 90 Rep 341 Posts Drives: Bucket of screws and sadness Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: NJ, USA iTrader: (0)	You definitely want to ignore those instructions and wrench those connections down tight. It's more of an issue when you run far above stock levels of boost. At one point after tuning for more boost, I was popping my CP every day just about, and had to be reconnected. I got tired of doing that, so got the largest screwdriver I owned and tightened the connections as tight as I could before I thought the CP might begin cracking. Haven't had an issue since __________________ Model: '08 135i N54 6AT Coupe ///M Sport - E85 + 93 = E30 Mods: AA DPs + Gen I - BMS JB4 (Race + Map 2) + DCI + OCC - Cobb CP - ///M RSFB + Front Control Arms - Koni Yellow - Swift Spec R - Vorshlag camber plates - MPSS 225/255 - x-ph Angel Eyes 160w
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09-05-2015, 11:09 PM	#18
tjswarbrick <(O0=[][]=0O)> 740 Rep 1,186 Posts Drives: 2012 N55 E88 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (1)	Good to know! I can't imagine cracking the aluminium CP but the instructions and an online post or two got me all paranoid about the lower IC pipe. But a quality clamp that tightens evenly all the way around shouldn't pose too much of a hazard. I'll put some boost through it tomorrow and see how it holds.
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09-08-2015, 12:04 PM	#19
tjswarbrick <(O0=[][]=0O)> 740 Rep 1,186 Posts Drives: 2012 N55 E88 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (1)	CDV-Delete was a little more trouble than I was expecting. My ramps are a little low to provide necessary access - so my shoulder blades are really sore right now! Need something bigger for next time I go down there... Access cover was a little weird - bent the metal bracket a bit, but couldn't get the cover all the way off - I couldn't align the slot with the aluminum ears in the bracket. So it behind me the whole time, which didn't make access any easier. Clamped the soft line with a cloth and vise-grips. Valve clamp came up easy as pie. Coupling clamp is on the top, with no visibility, and a bracket blocking access. It was easy enough to pop it up from the bottom - at which point it flew out and landed on the cover right near my head. But getting it back in took a flashlight, needle-nose pliers, mirror, and screwdriver - and probably a 1/2 hr of fiddling. After reading the horror stories here and picking up the 11mm offset ratcheting wrench from HF, bleeding was pretty straight forward. First press from Lovely Assistant netted nothing but air, second try (tightening bleed screw and pulling pedal up from floor in between) got some fluid out toward the end of the stroke, and third pass gooped all over the place. Level in the reservoir barely changed, so I didn't even use the pint of fluid I bought. When I first tried the clutch myself, the action at the top of the stroke felt so light that I thought there must be air trapped inside. I proceeded to pump it 100 times, and it didn't change. I just noticed that it got firmer as it passed through its operating range. The CDV was no longer making me squeeze fluid through that tiny orifice on each and ever pass! So with the valve delete and the clutch stop it now feels like the clutch on a sprightly 4-cyl sports car - light, short, with great feel and no wasted effort. Brilliant! Shifts are easy, quick, light, and smooth. So nice. As far as the drop-in filter and bolt-on charge pipe - it seems to have smoothed out something in the power delivery. Car actually feels less turbocharged, or at least less peaky, than it did before the change. More rheostat than toggle switch. I guess I got used to that hit at 4500rpm catching me off guard - but now it's been tamed and spread out and doesn't feel as instantly strong. I know it's a better response overall, but I kinda miss the over-the-top kick-in-the-pants feel. Don't miss it in the twisties, though! Very pleased with my first set of changes. Need to wait a while to see what comes next. Last edited by tjswarbrick; 08-04-2017 at 01:57 PM..
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09-17-2015, 01:56 PM	#21
tjswarbrick <(O0=[][]=0O)> 740 Rep 1,186 Posts Drives: 2012 N55 E88 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (1)	I've got problems. Car is out getting a full stereo upgrade (front and underseat speakers, front sub, amps, DSP) - and I'm driving a serious penalty box of a Mitsubishi. But I still couldn't help ordering a ZHP shift knob. My wife is gonna kill me. I have a heat gun and have read at least 4 tutorials so hopefully I can get by without damaging the boot. I'll try to snap some pics - including aforementioned CP- at least after they're done, but it's just never high on my priority list. My audio shop does some pretty intensive build logs - if they post one for my car, is anyone interested in seeing it? Forgot to mention - the replacement velcro only held for about 2 days, and my floor mat keeps sliding around under my feet. Not cool, feels wrong, looks bad, and could be unsafe. So I followed advice found elsewhere and used hardware to secure it. Started a new thread (with pics!) here: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1172135 Has held for a week at least! Replacement knobs were delivered today, but won't be installed until ZHP knob is after getting the car back from the audio shop. Last edited by tjswarbrick; 09-17-2015 at 02:02 PM..
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09-28-2015, 12:09 AM	#22
tjswarbrick <(O0=[][]=0O)> 740 Rep 1,186 Posts Drives: 2012 N55 E88 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (1)	Got a little help from Lovely Assistant. Mods completed. Installed the ZHP knob. It was a piece of cake - except: Using the heat gun, I got the spacer to separate from the knob, with the boot still attached. So I tried to use that, with no zip tie. And things flopped around a bit. Took it back off, used the zip tie, and couldn't get the knob to snap in place (too much material above the snap ring, I think.) Next time, zip tie didn't capture all the boot material so there was a gap where my fingers go. Finally got it right!: I love it! Interestingly, the M-Sport knob is quite weighted. I don't have a scale accurate enough to tell me how much it weighs, but in hand it really doesn't feel much lighter than the ZHP knob. And I guess I got rather used to the downward slope to the rear of the M-Sport knob - the ZHP one feels like it sticks up into my palm - though clearly it is flat. I think I'll acclimate quickly! It feels great in action. I also got it back from the Stereo shop - they made a few changes. Photo host has frozen up, so I'll be back.
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