|
|
|
12-17-2013, 07:01 PM | #1 |
Second Lieutenant
26
Rep 274
Posts |
Subframe Bushings - Dinan or BMW?
In pursuit of "steering response" and "predictable handling," I'm stuck on deciding between the final two options for bushings - Dinan or BMW?
Dinan - Pros/Cons - ~$700 - ~8 labor hours of install - For rear subframe and front lower control arm (front and rear sets) BMW - Pros/Cons - ~$280 - ~8 labor hours of install - For rear subframe only (rear set only)
__________________
|
12-17-2013, 07:26 PM | #3 |
Second Lieutenant
26
Rep 274
Posts |
It should have helped that I mention im nearing 50k miles and have stock suspension.
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-17-2013, 07:35 PM | #4 |
Private First Class
9
Rep 108
Posts |
if the bushings are definitely what you want to do, then have you considered the powerflex/whiteline set ?......cheaper than bmw, and easier/quicker to fit, like half the time.
i would say though that if you are looking for a significant improvement, i dont think the bushings will do that for you. ive just done dampers and springs only, and the ride is so good now i've cancelled my order for the bushings. i dont think i'd notice the difference anyway. |
Appreciate
0
|
12-17-2013, 08:46 PM | #5 | |
Brigadier General
675
Rep 4,080
Posts |
Quote:
Rear sub frames are actually a great, if not more proper first step. OP - skip Dinan unless you like paying a premium for name only. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-17-2013, 08:57 PM | #6 |
Major
157
Rep 1,409
Posts |
+1 on the BMW E92/M3 rear subframe bushings. Got them for $300. Did it as a DIY, although a PITA to do, Im real happy with the results. My 135i was transformed, even if it is still on stock suspension. No more rear end wiggle, the original bushings were very soft, and have large voids in them, whereas the M3 ones are solid rubber all the way through.
__________________
2011 X3 35i with M pack + 2011 135i w/6SPMT | 255 square tire setup | Quaife 3.46 LSD | Diff lock down bracket | Bilstein B8+Swift SpecR springs+H&R FSB | CDV delete | BMS Oil Tstat bypass | ER FMIC & CP | N54Tuning DP | GC Street Camber Plates | M3 FCA +guide rods+RSFB's+Tranny mounts | Manzo toe arms | Cobb Stg2 agressive tune | Hawk DTC70 brake pads | RB SS brake pistons | Goodridge SS brake lines | Custom brake cooling ducts
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-17-2013, 09:23 PM | #7 |
Second Lieutenant
26
Rep 274
Posts |
thanks guys, and yes, I have reviewed, searched, and researched over and over the benefits of upgrading the weak stock bushings.
Now, riddle me this... Any additional benefit for upgrading the front bushing set, in addition to the rear set? front bushing set > front control arm kit? OR front control arm kit > front bushing set?
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
12-17-2013, 10:37 PM | #8 | |
Cone Cruncher
31
Rep 534
Posts |
Quote:
If you want to do bushings, get the M3 ones from BMW as they're cheaper. For the front, there is an added benefit to the bushings or the control arm kit. What you'll notice instantly is more steering feedback and if you get the m3 arms, you'll add some much needed negative camber to the front wheels without having to put on a camber plate. The negative camber will wear the inside of your front tires faster, however likely you've had issues wearing the outer edge if you turn. I found that with a minor amount of negative camber in the front that I wore my tires much more evenly. Oh, and this gives you a bit more grip in corners in the front which reduces understeer. If you have questions, shoot me a PM. I did all of this stuff myself a few years back and don't regret these upgrades at all. |
|
Appreciate
1
|
12-23-2013, 07:16 PM | #9 |
Brigadier General
298
Rep 4,040
Posts
Drives: 130i coupé ;)
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Bimmerpost
|
I think it has been discussed that
Dinan bushings = M3 OEM busings + dinan price premium. The lower front control arm bushing is interchangeable on NON xi e9x/e8x. Its press out and takes a lot of laboyur effort, prob $ too. Although people prefer to upgrade to front M3 ams and get the busing plus the arms
__________________
128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, 3.73 diff, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: //M front arm, M3 rack, e36M lip Wishlist: Coils, n55 mnts, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff "The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is |
Appreciate
0
|
12-23-2013, 07:28 PM | #10 |
Colonel
232
Rep 2,643
Posts |
The M3 bushing upgrade for the stock front tension struts isn't as easy as it seems. I was told that it cannot be done without some type of jig / tooling and obviously a press. IMO, you would be better to buy the M3 front arms (set of 4 pcs) that give you more front camber as well. There is also the Meyle HD front tension strut replacement that is more similar to the standard part - That one will be a more subtle upgrade.
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-26-2014, 12:28 PM | #11 |
Major
1313
Rep 1,183
Posts |
You can drop the sub frame low enough to get the bushings out and in if you have a lift and stand just don't brake the lines to the brakes... My bushings will be in tomorrow and I'll confirm with photos.. I will also give you the shop name to get it done.
|
Appreciate
0
|
03-16-2014, 05:44 PM | #13 |
Private
3
Rep 97
Posts |
Don't want to hijack but to piggyback this question. I am thinking of going with the Powerflex bushings. Do you just need the front, rear, and the other part that is auto/manual specific for just the rear subframe? I don't know crap about suspension components so this is confusing me a little bit.
__________________
99 M3/2/5 Techno😈
16 Fiesta ST White Platinum🐇 93 F150 - forever project🐖 Past cars: 08 135i M Sport FBO, 03 GTI 24v, 96 Formula WS6 1LE |
Appreciate
0
|
03-16-2014, 06:49 PM | #14 |
Colonel
232
Rep 2,643
Posts |
The rear subframe has 4 corners, so needs a total of 4 bushings. They are 2 x "front" and 2 x "rear" which are different in design. It may be confusing, because all of them are used at the rear of the car.
I didn't read any report of the polyurethane bushing upgrade for the front of the car. Generally I think the M3 front arms are a better choice because the bushings are real rubber so I expect them to have less harshness and also be more durable. They also have the advantage of adding some front negative camber. I have M3 front arms on my 135i, but still have stock front arms on my E90. |
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|