Mounting damper remote reservoirs?

[RyanDavies]

Just curious to see how folks have handled this on the E82 platform.

I'd really like to be able to do this without any permanent body modification (such as drilling the trunk). The dampers (JRZ 2-way remotes) have quick-release fronts, but not rears. I don't object to mounting them outside of the cabin (perhaps if there is an easy way to put them in front of the radiator or the like, to keep cool, or a decent rear location that does similar), but would prefer to have them under-hood or in-trunk if possible.

Thanks in advance.

[ilikebmxbikes]

Mine are located near the hood latches

[RyanDavies]

Pictures? What about the rear? Was any drilling or cutting required?

[chris82]

On my buddy's 335i w/JRZ RS Pro, he has his external reservoirs mounted like in this picture with zip ties. I'm not sure how he routed the lines though

*Edit: Btw, RS Pros on a 128i M sport? Holy crap , how does it handle? I'm on the RS Two, and the capabilities of them are just mind blowing. What else are you running on there?

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by chris82

On my buddy's 335i w/JRZ RS Pro, he has his external reservoirs mounted like in this picture with zip ties. I'm not sure how he routed the lines though

*Edit: Btw, RS Pros on a 128i M sport? Holy crap , how does it handle? I'm on the RS Two, and the capabilities of them are just mind blowing. What else are you running on there?

He's a noob and trying to do what I did to my car.

Davies, I just think lower arm might be the best option if you can't get them elsewhere

[RyanDavies]

Thanks for the love, Kyle. .

I'd considered the RS Two to avoid this problem, and if it were a monotube, I probably would go that route just to save a little bit of money and solve this packaging problem. The car will see quite a bit of street use as well, so most of my decision process revolves around ride quality, rather than pure performance in a competition environment. Coming from an S2000, that, on 800lb springs (so similar wheel rates to what is common on a 128i), had better ride quality than my stock Mercedes daily driver, as a result of going to Motion Control 2-ways on that, I'm spoiled by the ride quality of this type of damper.

To specifically answer your question, it'll probably be terrible until I get a diff built for the car. But we'll see. I'm using Kyle's general settings as a baseline, and will play around beyond that. 2016 will be a light year for me in terms of time investment, but maybe I can get the car pretty close by the end.

This is my current best bet, I found these pictures elsewhere:

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by RyanDavies

Thanks for the love, Kyle. .

I'd considered the RS Two to avoid this problem, and if it were a monotube, I probably would go that route just to save a little bit of money and solve this packaging problem. The car will see quite a bit of street use as well, so most of my decision process revolves around ride quality, rather than pure performance in a competition environment. Coming from an S2000, that, on 800lb springs (so similar wheel rates to what is common on a 128i), had better ride quality than my stock Mercedes daily driver, as a result of going to Motion Control 2-ways on that, I'm spoiled by the ride quality of this type of damper.

To specifically answer your question, it'll probably be terrible until I get a diff built for the car. But we'll see. I'm using Kyle's general settings as a baseline, and will play around beyond that. 2016 will be a light year for me in terms of time investment, but maybe I can get the car pretty close by the end.

This is my current best bet, I found these pictures elsewhere:

[img[https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37450934/IMG_1854.jpg[/img]

That's using a M3 lower arm, so you'll be able to mount the remotes a bit closer to the wheel to adjust them instead of sticking your head down by the diff.

[RyanDavies]

It's rather rare I adjust compression, so ease of adjustment is less of a concern than protecting them from damage.

[ilikebmxbikes]

Originally Posted by RyanDavies

Pictures? What about the rear? Was any drilling or cutting required?

pics attached. no drilling.

[chris82]

Originally Posted by RyanDavies

Thanks for the love, Kyle. .

I'd considered the RS Two to avoid this problem, and if it were a monotube, I probably would go that route just to save a little bit of money and solve this packaging problem. The car will see quite a bit of street use as well, so most of my decision process revolves around ride quality, rather than pure performance in a competition environment. Coming from an S2000, that, on 800lb springs (so similar wheel rates to what is common on a 128i), had better ride quality than my stock Mercedes daily driver, as a result of going to Motion Control 2-ways on that, I'm spoiled by the ride quality of this type of damper.

To specifically answer your question, it'll probably be terrible until I get a diff built for the car. But we'll see. I'm using Kyle's general settings as a baseline, and will play around beyond that. 2016 will be a light year for me in terms of time investment, but maybe I can get the car pretty close by the end.

You'd be surprised, the comfort of the RS Two is right up there with the RS Pro on the street. One of the JRZ reps told me they designed the RS Two to perform like a damper with external reservoirs, and I think they achieved that goal, simply stunning.

What scares me is just how low I have the settings on these and just how well they perform even on those low settings ... one day I will venture into the higher settings ... one day

[chris82]

Originally Posted by ilikebmxbikes

pics attached. no drilling.

Where are the rears?

[ilikebmxbikes]

Originally Posted by chris82

Where are the rears?

No remotes on the rears

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by RyanDavies

It's rather rare I adjust compression, so ease of adjustment is less of a concern than protecting them from damage.

You'll be adjusting a lot on a BMW.

Originally Posted by chris82

You'd be surprised, the comfort of the RS Two is right up there with the RS Pro on the street. One of the JRZ reps told me they designed the RS Two to perform like a damper with external reservoirs, and I think they achieved that goal, simply stunning.

What scares me is just how low I have the settings on these and just how well they perform even on those low settings ... one day I will venture into the higher settings ... one day

It's back breaking mode. I've only done them on smooth concrete and would never dare to do it on local streets unless I want to break jaws

[chris82]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

You'll be adjusting a lot on a BMW.



It's back breaking mode. I've only done them on smooth concrete and would never dare to do it on local streets unless I want to break jaws

My feelings too! I am 2/14 compression in front and that feels like plenty on the roads I drive

[RyanDavies]

Well, Kyle, I spent a lot of time to get to a point where I didn't have to adjust much. Front rebound was my primary site-specific tweak. I did end up taking out almost all of the rear compression in Lincoln, which was unusual. And maxed front rebound. Car was the best it'd ever been. My first year with that car (and probably 1000 runs between all the folks that had time in it), I was making fairly constant adjustments. With the exception of the Lincoln tweaks, my car was the same from post-Nats 2014 until arriving at Nats this year, other than doing testing, where I ended up always going back to the baseline. Rear bar, spring changes, ride height changes, etc. I use compression effectively to control how fast the tire loads on a given end of a car. Some people do different things / adopt a different philosophy, and thats what I was happiest with. It'll be interesting to see what needs done with the 128, as I move to a car where I'm sure I'll have to spend more focus working on power-down (although a lot of people in STR spent a lot of time/money to figure out what I did pretty early to solve this), particularly before I have a clutch diff built for the car.

With the MCS, there was hardly a discernable ride quality difference between the 5F/4R compression settings I usually ran, and 15/15 all around. 15/15 was something like 200lbsof compression force at 1in/sec. Tons of force. I don't think either your TCKs or Chris' RSTWo twin tubes are capable of generating that much force. Not that I've EVER found a reason to run that much (I tested it when I was running 50% of the spring rate I ended up settling on), but you can reasonably do it. It'd be cool if you guys had shock dynos to share, although I don't know if either of you would. I plan on being 100% public with the build, as there isn't a lot of public info about how to make these cars work.

Rebound tended to impact ride quality a lot more, once the shocks left a comfortable "range", the over/underdamped conditions that were created caused a hateful ride.

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by RyanDavies

Well, Kyle, I spent a lot of time to get to a point where I didn't have to adjust much. Front rebound was my primary site-specific tweak. I did end up taking out almost all of the rear compression in Lincoln, which was unusual. And maxed front rebound. Car was the best it'd ever been. My first year with that car (and probably 1000 runs between all the folks that had time in it), I was making fairly constant adjustments. With the exception of the Lincoln tweaks, my car was the same from post-Nats 2014 until arriving at Nats this year, other than doing testing, where I ended up always going back to the baseline. Rear bar, spring changes, ride height changes, etc. I use compression effectively to control how fast the tire loads on a given end of a car. Some people do different things / adopt a different philosophy, and thats what I was happiest with. It'll be interesting to see what needs done with the 128, as I move to a car where I'm sure I'll have to spend more focus working on power-down (although a lot of people in STR spent a lot of time/money to figure out what I did pretty early to solve this), particularly before I have a clutch diff built for the car.

With the MCS, there was hardly a discernable ride quality difference between the 5F/4R compression settings I usually ran, and 15/15 all around. 15/15 was something like 200lbsof compression force at 1in/sec. Tons of force. I don't think either your TCKs or Chris' RSTWo twin tubes are capable of generating that much force. Not that I've EVER found a reason to run that much (I tested it when I was running 50% of the spring rate I ended up settling on), but you can reasonably do it. It'd be cool if you guys had shock dynos to share, although I don't know if either of you would. I plan on being 100% public with the build, as there isn't a lot of public info about how to make these cars work.

Rebound tended to impact ride quality a lot more, once the shocks left a comfortable "range", the over/underdamped conditions that were created caused a hateful ride.

I was mostly talking about just DDing to an event and leaving, I have my shocks on the softest setting +2 clicks, and usually go up to 10/12 or around that range depending on surface. Once I find the sweet spot I rarely touch compression and it's mostly rebound settings to set the car.

Lincoln I also jacked up rebound and reduced compression A TON. Was close to almost soft.

[RyanDavies]

I suppose this all should probably moved to some other thread now, hah. Maybe I'll do a "build" thread?

[chris82]

Originally Posted by RyanDavies

I suppose this all should probably moved to some other thread now, hah. Maybe I'll do a "build" thread?

Definitely

[135]

See the BRracing build thread - they mounted their rears in the boot/trunk compartment (battery tray). Some minor cutting/drilling (e.g. using a hole-saw) of plastic linings will be required if you want internal fitment.