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      08-29-2017, 12:31 AM   #1
rezilient
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Possibly a failed charge pipe, what else?

Hi guys. I had my '11 135i at the track this afternoon and after about 15 minutes of hard driving there was a pop and the exhaust note got louder/deeper and the SES light went on. Also the power is reduced.

I'm getting codes P2C57, P2774 and P2906 which seem to indicate the charge pipe.

So does anyone have suggestions which one to get, and also what else makes sense to change while I'm doing that - for example does anything need to be removed or is easier to access once the charge pipe is out?

Also I was reading that the N55 does not need a blow off valve, why is that?
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      08-29-2017, 09:24 AM   #2
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Firstly, thanks for doing some research and not just going "OMG MY ENGINE BLEW" lol.

There's a ton of options for charge pipes out there and essentially as long as you get one that's metal and decently built you'll be fine. They don't make much of a difference between them unless you need meth bungs/BOV (you don't need a BOV since you have N55).

I use the cp-e N55 CP, it cost me $125 used and has been totally fine.
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      08-29-2017, 02:31 PM   #3
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Thanks! Here is my list of what's available, hopefully this is helpful to others.

The ARM and VRSF ones have attractive pricing and honestly look very similar, so I wonder if they come from the same Chinese factory? VRSF seems to have pretty good feedback from forum members. Trying to avoid spending nearly $300 on the ER one unless it's significantly better.

http://www.burgertuning.com/chargepi...5_N54_BMW.html
$239

http://www.evolutionracewerks.com/node/190
$275

http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/E...arge-Pipe.html
$229

https://www.armmotorsports.com/135-N...-t-135-n55.htm
$135

http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-chargep...i-n54-n55.html
$179

https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/...SABEgJSlfD_BwE
$195

https://store.activeautowerke.com/pr...55-charge-pipe
$249
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      08-29-2017, 02:36 PM   #4
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The cp-e one is listed at $299

http://cp-e.com/webstore2/product/bm...ipe-methcharg/
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      08-29-2017, 03:53 PM   #5
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When I was shopping for a CP for my N54 on my post some said that some the Chinese CP had fitting issues so I went with BMS CP to skip the BS. Fit was great, decently priced and happy ever since.
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      08-29-2017, 04:42 PM   #6
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Then again, many have spoken highly about the Phoenix Racing charge pipe for $129. I got mine from Top Gear, who drop shipped from directly from BMS. I'm N54, but fit & finish was good and install was as anticipated.

Personal preference, and many other parts I wouldn't consider this route, but for a charge pipe the PR version was just right...
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Last edited by 1and1; 08-29-2017 at 05:02 PM.. Reason: can't spelle for shet (pheonix->phoenix)
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      08-29-2017, 04:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
Then again, many have spoken highly about the Pheonix Racing charge pipe for $129. I got mine from Top Gear, who drop shipped from directly from BMS. I'm N54, but fit & finish was good and install was as anticipated.

Personal preference, and many other parts I wouldn't consider this route, but for a charge pipe the PR version was just right...
1and1: wished u had posted about the PR CP when I was looking rezilient: go with the cheapest metal CP that has confirmed fitment by others.
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      08-29-2017, 06:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1N4ttro View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1and1 View Post
Then again, many have spoken highly about the Pheonix Racing charge pipe for $129. I got mine from Top Gear, who drop shipped from directly from BMS. I'm N54, but fit & finish was good and install was as anticipated.

Personal preference, and many other parts I wouldn't consider this route, but for a charge pipe the PR version was just right...
1and1: wished u had posted about the PR CP when I was looking rezilient: go with the cheapest metal CP that has confirmed fitment by others.
Thanks guys. Also what else makes sense to change while I'm doing the charge pipe? Any other weak points that might break during a track night? Im planning on going out to the track again in a few weeks and wanted to make sure I'm prepared. Im already planning to do the rear tires since current ones are down to 2/32.
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      08-29-2017, 08:38 PM   #9
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By the way, here is a pic of the busted charge pipe
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      08-29-2017, 08:47 PM   #10
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Replace charge pipe, all will be well again. Most of us have been there
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      08-30-2017, 03:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezilient View Post
Also what else makes sense to change while I'm doing the charge pipe? Any other weak points that might break during a track night? Im planning on going out to the track again in a few weeks and wanted to make sure I'm prepared.
Some have replaced the plastic elbow pipe coming from inter cooler to charge pipe but based on what I have read, that part has a low failure rate under mild to moderate tuning so most people skip it. Knowing that your plans are to track the car, I would consider changing it if it was me.
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      08-31-2017, 11:38 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rezilient View Post
Got it used, don't be afraid of used stuff. Hard to mess up a metal charge pipe haha
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      09-15-2017, 12:43 AM   #13
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Thanks for all the advise. I went with a VRSF charge pipe. Install was pretty straightforward. Took it on the track today and didnt blow anything so thats a plus.

Question- did anyone else notice a decrease in low end power after installing the charge pipe? I'm wondering if its just in my head or if there is less power in the low rpms. Also the power doesnt seem as linear, almost as if there is a "dead spot" towards 2.5k rpms. Maybe im crazy or maybe it's something else?
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