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      03-14-2018, 07:25 AM   #45
bionicbelly
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I also got the car coded this weekend. the e-diff, the myriad of intrusive brake settings, etc are now gone. I also had the airbag light turned off, and the TPMS system disabled.

Bimmergeeks took care of all this for me. Excellent easy to use product, and the guy is fast and easy to work with. Big applause for Bimmergeeks.

One issue I did run into, was the TPMS system. So BG did all his magic, but the light was still on. I tried to reset, to no avail. I looked and looked for the module, but there was a lot of conflicting info, and after checking three of the reported locations, and not finding it, I pulled the fuse. Lights out, worked like a charm. If anyone runs into this, it is fuse 27.
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      03-14-2018, 10:56 AM   #46
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the module is in the trunk, passenger side far back corner down in a hole sitting in a molded piece of foam,small grey box about 2.5x3.5 inches says RDC on it. just had to unplug mine after having the tpms disabled i can get a pic for later tonight if you want to put the fuse back in
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      03-14-2018, 12:46 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thewind727 View Post
the module is in the trunk, passenger side far back corner down in a hole sitting in a molded piece of foam,small grey box about 2.5x3.5 inches says RDC on it. just had to unplug mine after having the tpms disabled i can get a pic for later tonight if you want to put the fuse back in
If I pull the fuse I don't have to disconnect the RDC? I just put all my trunk liners back in
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      03-14-2018, 01:08 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
If I pull the fuse I don't have to disconnect the RDC? I just put all my trunk liners back in
I guess if the light stays off then yeah, not sure if it will show when you get an inspection though.
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      03-14-2018, 01:48 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Thewind727 View Post
I guess if the light stays off then yeah, not sure if it will show when you get an inspection though.
Thanks. I'll try coding TPMS off tonight. I'll have to check codes afterwards, but I don't think any NY inspector would be looking for TPMS delete. All they care about is the emissions related codes.
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      03-14-2018, 02:29 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
Thanks. I'll try coding TPMS off tonight. I'll have to check codes afterwards, but I don't think any NY inspector would be looking for TPMS delete. All they care about is the emissions related codes.
true true just trying to help out where i can
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      03-15-2018, 04:08 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 135 View Post
I see you have actual coilovers on the rear (instead of the usual separated damper/spring setup). I've only seen this conversion on one other 1-series before.

Did you calculate the change in motion ratio and then selected an appropriate spring rate for your chosen undamped ride natural frequency?
I did not. I leave that up to people with more knowledge and experience than me. I used what AST said I should use. FYI- It is 650 front,
and 450 rear. I do not know if this is where it will end up, but it seems like a good starting point. I may decide to change rates after driving the car awhile.


And did you measure the motion ratio as the suspension moves throughout its range of travel?
? I thought motion ratio was a constant. And, it probably is in the range that this will be moving.

Did you reinforce the strut tower mounting position?
No. It is not needed on anything newer than E46. E46 is okay to do coil over, but you have to watch it. Anything older, reinforcement is necessary. This is according to AST.

Is that a stainless steel fuel filler neck?
I believe it is stainless? I did not really check that, so I can't say for certain.
Answers in red
When calculating the motion ratio, you can measure either:
1. the spring and wheel movement or
2. the distance between the lower control arm (camber link) inner pivot centre on the subframe and (i) the spring centreline and (ii) the tyre contact patch centreline.

When measuring distance, the variable usually known as d1 is the distance from the lower control arm inner pivot centre to the spring centreline. Since your spring position has changed, so has the measurement for d1 - the spring has been located further out so the distance increases.
The other variable, d2 is the distance from the lower control arm inner pivot centre to the tyre contact patch centreline.
Both measurements need to be taken along a common plane.

The formula for motion ratio is:
MR = d1/d2

The motion ratios for our cars are:
- front spring: 0.96^2
- front damper: 0.96^2
- rear spring: 0.563^2
- rear damper: 0.813^2

Notice that the front spring and damper have the same motion ratio - this is because it is a true coilover and the spring and damper share the same measurements - and the motion ratio is very close to 1 because the spring centreline is very close to the tyre contact patch centreline.

On the other hand, the rear spring is located significantly inbound of the damper, which is why the the spring motion ratio is substantially less than that of the damper but, when the rear spring is co-located with the damper (as a true coilover, as is the case with the front), then the spring centreline distance increases to the point that it is the same as the damper and, therefore, the rear spring will assume the damper's motion ratio, which is 0.813^2. Note that this value is relatively not close to 1 as it is still a fair distance away from the tyre contact patch centreline.

So, if you had measured then you should have found that the new spring motion ratio would be the same as that of the damper. Without measurements, you should still be able to use 0.813^2.

An increase in motion ratio would result in a reduction in required spring rate but, without knowing what your target undamped ride natural frequencies are and all the other variables and performing the calculations, I could not say if the AST-recommended spring rates of 450 lbf/in would be correct.

I'll be interested to see how the relatively high AST-recommended front 650 lbf/in spring rate fares on your car and where you end up for both front and rear spring rates.

On our platform, the motion ratio can be thought of as a constant but I think it does change through the range of suspension travel but it would be insignificant enough to disregard any difference.
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      03-15-2018, 07:09 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 135 View Post
On our platform, the motion ratio can be thought of as a constant but I think it does change through the range of suspension travel but it would be insignificant enough to disregard any difference.
Yes, I think modern suspension design with trailing arms and guide rods do a decent job at preventing bump steer and keeping the wheel moving in a fairly consistent arc. I don't think you would see a dramatic change in motion ratio throughout the dynamic range of motion if you were to measure and plot it.

Take note that he has removed a significant amount of weight from the rear of the car. That will affect how relatively "stiff" the 450lb/in spring is in the rear. He also flared the fenders, so that helps with the fact that a rear coil-over takes away a significant amount of in-board wheel clearance. Just gotta hope that upper strut mount holds lol.
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      03-15-2018, 12:25 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
If I pull the fuse I don't have to disconnect the RDC? I just put all my trunk liners back in
I can say this worked for me. It turns out I did find the module, but did not know that was it. I thought it was an impact sensor or something.

Anyway, the car was coded, TPMS light stayed on, reset did not work, but the fuse did for me.
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      03-19-2018, 04:06 PM   #54
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bionicbelly

Do you have some better pics of the Hard Motorsports duct install?? I have a set and i'm trying to figure out how you have them mounted and lower hose routed. Thanks

Nick
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      03-20-2018, 08:04 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elsabor67 View Post
bionicbelly

Do you have some better pics of the Hard Motorsports duct install?? I have a set and i'm trying to figure out how you have them mounted and lower hose routed. Thanks

Nick
I have to do brakes tonight, so I will try to get some better shots. Let me know specifically what you want to see, and I'll do my best.
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      03-20-2018, 09:12 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
I have to do brakes tonight, so I will try to get some better shots. Let me know specifically what you want to see, and I'll do my best.
Thanks man. Pretty much the area (wide shot) where they are mounted and any trimming you had to do. I did a similar thing to what you did with the hose adapter on the backplate.

Also where you route the bottom part of the hoses.

Thanks again.
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      03-20-2018, 09:48 AM   #57
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Did the dyno day yesterday, and the alignment late last week.

I am having some trouble with the alignment, but have been in touch with bimmerworld, so hopefully it will get straitened out. I could only get ~3.2 degrees negative on the front. This is with cutting the top of the tower so that the camber plate can slide inward further.

As far as the dyno, numbers were actually higher than I wanted, but since the car weighed more than I thought it would, it works for now. Completely stock engine.

Weight was higher than I was hoping for, but again, with the higher HP than expected, it is ok for now. Was shooting for 2850 with me in the car, and 190 average hp. I think it will be easy enough to get to that weight, but will require $, and my money pile is more of a money bump at the moment, so HP and weight adjustments will have to wait for a bit.
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      03-20-2018, 11:22 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
Did the dyno day yesterday, and the alignment late last week.

I am having some trouble with the alignment, but have been in touch with bimmerworld, so hopefully it will get straitened out. I could only get ~3.2 degrees negative on the front. This is with cutting the top of the tower so that the camber plate can slide inward further.

As far as the dyno, numbers were actually higher than I wanted, but since the car weighed more than I thought it would, it works for now. Completely stock engine.

Weight was higher than I was hoping for, but again, with the higher HP than expected, it is ok for now. Was shooting for 2850 with me in the car, and 190 average hp. I think it will be easy enough to get to that weight, but will require $, and my money pile is more of a money bump at the moment, so HP and weight adjustments will have to wait for a bit.
Hmm, power/weight ratios...sounds like you're building for NASA TT?
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      03-20-2018, 12:19 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by BimmerAg View Post
Hmm, power/weight ratios...sounds like you're building for NASA TT?
Indeed sir. First event is this weekend at NCM. I am running TT5, but it looks like TT4 would be easy enough as well. ~240 to the wheels would be perfect. Unfortunately, I think it would take more tire as well, which looks like a tough go for us.
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      03-20-2018, 12:40 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
Indeed sir. First event is this weekend at NCM. I am running TT5, but it looks like TT4 would be easy enough as well. ~240 to the wheels would be perfect. Unfortunately, I think it would take more tire as well, which looks like a tough go for us.
Very cool. I've looked into a TT4 build a little bit. 300WHP & 3500 lbs with driver. 275 section tires or smaller, UTQG>100, and DCT transmission would put me at an adjusted ratio of 12.05

Does your car have the M-sport front bumper, and does that mean you can't claim the BTM Aero allowance?
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      03-20-2018, 12:45 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by BimmerAg View Post
Very cool. I've looked into a TT4 build a little bit. 300WHP & 3500 lbs with driver. 275 section tires or smaller, UTQG>100, and DCT transmission would put me at an adjusted ratio of 12.05

Does your car have the M-sport front bumper, and does that mean you can't claim the BTM Aero allowance?
I do not have the Msport bumper, and I am taking the BTM aero allowance. I did spend some points on AST shocks w/reservoirs, and all the spherical joints I can add, so I ended up needing to hit 15:1. Pretty healthy hit, but at these HP levels, it only translates to 10hp, or 150lbs. I am hoping the added capabilities of the better shocks can cover the difference.

I think the 35's would do pretty well in TT4. Especially the tracks with big straits. IMO, the 3x0 Z's and S2K's will be the cars to beat there, but the 35's would have a power advantage over the Hondas, and handling on the Nissans. Would be interesting for sure.
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      03-20-2018, 01:45 PM   #62
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I'm hoping to swing by NCM this weekend and check out your car. Hopefully the weather clears up a bit for you.
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      03-20-2018, 03:13 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
I do not have the Msport bumper, and I am taking the BTM aero allowance. I did spend some points on AST shocks w/reservoirs, and all the spherical joints I can add, so I ended up needing to hit 15:1. Pretty healthy hit, but at these HP levels, it only translates to 10hp, or 150lbs. I am hoping the added capabilities of the better shocks can cover the difference.

I think the 35's would do pretty well in TT4. Especially the tracks with big straits. IMO, the 3x0 Z's and S2K's will be the cars to beat there, but the 35's would have a power advantage over the Hondas, and handling on the Nissans. Would be interesting for sure.
I wouldn't worry too much about the hit.

The Miata guys have consistently shown a heavier car with more power is quicker than the lighter car with less power.
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      03-22-2018, 09:15 AM   #64
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Here are the pictures of the hard motorsport ducts. Driver side is already broken. I am running the steering limiters, so not really sure how that happened. I put some foil tape on to seal it up, and I will just have to remember not to go to full lock.

Also, gratuitous new brake photo.
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      03-22-2018, 09:39 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicbelly View Post
Here are the pictures of the hard motorsport ducts. Driver side is already broken. I am running the steering limiters, so not really sure how that happened. I put some foil tape on to seal it up, and I will just have to remember not to go to full lock.

Also, gratuitous new brake photo.
Awesome man!!! Thanks ofr the shots. That sucks it cracked like that. Now I know what and how to approach installing mine. I appreciate it much!!!
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      03-22-2018, 06:32 PM   #66
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Fragile Motorsports...
What did BimmerWorld suggest on more neg front camber? I'm maxed at -3* with M3 lower arms and Vorschlag plates. Didn't notch the strut towers.
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