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      07-23-2014, 01:44 PM   #89
mleskovar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phlonx View Post
I thought that was the case but I keep reading that there are no exceptions to the coding/registering. Do you know from experience?
No. But think about it. All the 'coding' does is match the battery configuration and if you're replacing with a like battery there would be nothing to change.
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      07-23-2014, 01:48 PM   #90
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By the way, my car is an '08 with 63k miles. I had the yellow battery light come on the dash a few times and then the halo's stopped turning on when I unlock the car. After some research I learned that means my battery is getting near the end of it's life. I recently made a few long trips and ensured the battery was thoroughly charged before deciding to replace it...

Just making sure we stay on topic and all... Anybody else have experience with coding or not coding a replacement battery?
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      07-23-2014, 02:33 PM   #91
Phlonx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mleskovar View Post
No. But think about it. All the 'coding' does is match the battery configuration and if you're replacing with a like battery there would be nothing to change.
I appreciate your input but I have thought about it and all of it is a little weird. I've read that no matter if it is the same battery or different, the alternator adapts to not only the current/voltage/amps etc. of the battery but it's age and condition as well and thus it needs to be coded/registered with the car no matter what
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      07-23-2014, 09:00 PM   #92
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77k still going strong. Going to have it checked soon and most likely replace not long after
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      07-23-2014, 11:19 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phlonx View Post
I appreciate your input but I have thought about it and all of it is a little weird. I've read that no matter if it is the same battery or different, the alternator adapts to not only the current/voltage/amps etc. of the battery but it's age and condition as well and thus it needs to be coded/registered with the car no matter what
You are correct. An old battery may still be performing to tolerances, but it is not performing nearly as well as a new one. Its a difference of a couple volts and a few amps on the circuit. The car adapts charging and discharging rates of the battery to meet the current condition of the battery. Since a new one performs to a different spec than an aged one, you need to have the car recoded.
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      07-24-2014, 06:44 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mleskovar View Post
No. But think about it. All the 'coding' does is match the battery configuration and if you're replacing with a like battery there would be nothing to change.
This statement is not entirely correct. The coding also tells the car there is a new battery, and the car re-charges a new battery differently then an old one.

If you put a new battery in, and don't re-code, it could reduce the life of your new battery.
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      07-24-2014, 07:43 AM   #95
Phlonx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrokenVert View Post
You are correct. An old battery may still be performing to tolerances, but it is not performing nearly as well as a new one. Its a difference of a couple volts and a few amps on the circuit. The car adapts charging and discharging rates of the battery to meet the current condition of the battery. Since a new one performs to a different spec than an aged one, you need to have the car recoded.
OK, that confirms my suspicion. So...... How do I code it?!
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      07-24-2014, 08:09 AM   #96
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mid year '09, have a 1500W subwoofer that I wang almost daily.
Battery is still going strong, not voltage droop or hard starts.
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      07-29-2014, 09:26 AM   #97
Phlonx
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Any help with coding my new battery?
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      07-29-2014, 11:15 AM   #98
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72.5 months and still kicking.
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      07-29-2014, 11:57 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phlonx View Post
Any help with coding my new battery?
See attached. Might be better to go search in the E90 section. There is an entire thread on the topic.
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      07-29-2014, 01:25 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Man View Post
See attached. Might be better to go search in the E90 section. There is an entire thread on the topic.
Attached? Not sure where to click? Searching for threads but easier said than done...
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      07-29-2014, 04:47 PM   #101
Iron Man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phlonx View Post
Attached? Not sure where to click? Searching for threads but easier said than done...
Sorry, I thought I had attached the file. Will have to send tomorrow, since the file is on my other computer. If you search the E90 forums, there are several threads on coding/registering batteries.

File attached. You can check out the bimmer software website. Do searches on here for NCS Expert, INPA and BMW Logger.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf BMW Aftermarket Battery Registration DIY.pdf (475.8 KB, 27 views)
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Last edited by Iron Man; 07-30-2014 at 06:54 AM.
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      07-29-2014, 05:18 PM   #102
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March 2008 and stock battery and turbos..no problems though there's some wastegate rattle

only 40k miles though
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      08-07-2014, 04:15 AM   #103
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Update - March 2008 128i, 135,000 miles. Original battery still fine after 76 months.

Have a replacement sitting in my garage. Will swap in before winter begins.
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      08-07-2014, 06:25 AM   #104
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90k and still no issues but I think wastegate is going now and the warranty is no longer good....sigh
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      08-12-2014, 05:16 PM   #105
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2 08's still on the original battery
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      08-16-2014, 01:32 PM   #106
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I have a March '09 but have 74k miles on it. Battery did have a small problem that didn't really need attention but after that, I haven't had an issue with it.
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      08-16-2014, 06:09 PM   #107
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Still running factory battery on my 07 E60 at 61k miles, still cranks perfectly fine.
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      Yesterday, 05:00 PM   #108
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Worth it to buy an oem battery? Someone sway me. Battery getting weak
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      Today, 08:32 AM   #109
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The ways to code for a battery change include having the dealer do it (probably most expensive), having an independant BMW garage do it, paying somebody who does coding to do it (including remotely), doing it yourself with NCSExpert and INPA, and doing it yourself with BMWhat. I didn't realize BMWhat does it but I checked it out yesterday and the android/Apple app says it will do it although it's a small add on. If you were starting with nothing, BMWhat may be the way to go. The app + bluetooth adapter seems to be equal to maybe a few dollars less than buying a good cable to use NCSExpert. NCSExpert is very powerful but not real easy to use. The videos I've seen of BMWhat look more like "normal" software. Issue a command and the software does it. Registration with the NCSExpert code set is like that but changing the battery size is the more typical (for that software) process of downloading a software module, changing it, and then reloading it.

In NCSExpert, in other words, it's a one or two step process depending on if you are changing the battery size and type. If you change from a wet cell to a AGM or you go up or down in size, you have to do two steps. One step, always required, is to tell the car the battery is new. I think that is in Tool32. The other step is to load the necessary software module to tell the car the battery size or type changed - if it did.

What battery to use is to me a personal preference. I am pretty confident there is nothing very special about the battery from the dealer, however. You need one with terminals in about the same location, however, given the somewhat unusual hookup. It also needs to be vented outside so it needs the port for that. But I don't think that's hard to find, just something to check.

I also don't think battery replacement and coding have to happen on the same day. If you charge the new battery a little wrong for a few days, it should not really impact it. If you do it for months or years, then you shorten it's life.

If you are worried about your battery, it is not hard to check. Advance Auto may do it for you if you ask. I have a little tester I bought from Harbor Freight for about $20 that does it. It is just a fancy volt meter with a resistor that can displace around 100 amps for a few seconds. You hook the meter to the battery and push a button and read what it says. You are measuring the battery voltage under load but the display give you the cold cranking amps your battery is capable of.

My 09 battery seems fine but I haven't checked it. I probably should. It sits for a few days at a time most weeks (I also drive a SUV).
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