DIY Request: Front control arm upgrade kit

[colt9987]

Does anyone have a DIY for the M3/1M Front Control Arm Upgrade Kit? Link below.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...939/ES2586480/

[Elsabor67]

It's as easy as lifting the front up in the air, removing the tires, undoing the bolts for the control arms and replacing them with the M3/1M ones. You don't have to remove the steering rack arms either.

Of note, once done you have to get it aligned asap because it will drive funny.

[02rsxpilot]

ECS sells a hardware package too. Can anyone confirm if this is necessary or if you can re-use the stock hardware? Just bought the M3 arms from FCP Euro on a Black Friday deal, arriving Monday.

[Ski Killset]

Originally Posted by 02rsxpilot

ECS sells a hardware package too. Can anyone confirm if this is necessary or if you can re-use the stock hardware? Just bought the M3 arms from FCP Euro on a Black Friday deal, arriving Monday.

I got the install kit, felt better to use all new hardware, and actually broke one of the clips when removing the stock stuff

[pj.rodriguez]

I believe you will need to use the new hardware. Some people choose not to, but if it does fail because of reuse, then you'll be paying a lot more for damage than what new hardware costs. Just for peace of mind. Also, I believe some them are stretch bolts, but someone please correct me.

[Elsabor67]

Originally Posted by 02rsxpilot

ECS sells a hardware package too. Can anyone confirm if this is necessary or if you can re-use the stock hardware? Just bought the M3 arms from FCP Euro on a Black Friday deal, arriving Monday.

Although not required, it is HIGHLY encouraged and recommended. I reused mine but soon after replaced all my bolts and nuts.

[colt9987]

Sounds easy enough. What is the difference between the tension struts and control arms? Do both effect suspension performance equally? I see the ECS and FCP Euro kit come with the 2 M tension struts and 2 M control arms, but you can also buy just the 2 M "control arms" separately FCP Euro.

I am just wondering if its really worth getting the whole 5 piece package, or if it is almost as effective to do just the 2 M "control arms".

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...939/ES2586480/

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...31102283577-78

[135ivert]

Originally Posted by Elsabor67

It's as easy as lifting the front up in the air, removing the tires, undoing the bolts for the control arms and replacing them with the M3/1M ones. You don't have to remove the steering rack arms either.

Of note, once done you have to get it aligned asap because it will drive funny.

My biggest concern with this job is preloading the suspension without the tires on. It's a little nerve-wracking to think about having the car in the air & compressing the hub while trying to torque a bolt to 165nm. If the jack (or whatever compression method) slips that's a lot of force that has to go somewhere.

[Elsabor67]

I do most of my stuff at a shop and use a lift to ensure that the car is stable and also use stands high enough to torque everything down when preloading the suspension. Even if i'm doing it at home, I make sure that I have secondary and tertiary safety measures so the car doesn't drop on me.



Colt, you have to buy both arms for either side because the lenght is a tad longer for the M3/1M control arms and tension arms. They are also different part numbers.

[colt9987]

Ah okay, gotcha. I also noticed that the hardware kit is like $50. It seems like you could buy those parts individually for WAY less. Anyone know the part numbers for the nuts and bolts in the hardware kit?

[Pig Farmer]

You can look at realoemparts.com. Select your car, year, etc. and look at the schismatic/diagram for the front axle. You'll find that $50 is competitive.

[dkny008]

Can anyone tell me what's that "Front Headlight Leveling Sensor Rod" used for?
Does this rod already exists in a E92 335i with non-M control arm? or we must change it after we change to M3 control arm?

Thanks

[Freon]

There's a special headlight link that matches the M3 control arms. I assume it's a slightly different length or something...

Of note, when you remove/install front control arms you're supposed to compress the suspension when you tighten the inner control arm bolts so the bushings are not bound up when the car is at rest. The inner bushings' inner bolt carrier is immobilized (to the chassis) when installed, so if you just tighten those bolts with the suspension hanging down on a lift or jacks the bushing will be twisted 24/7 while the car is at rest (parked, cruising, etc). This is probably bad for bushing life and will change your effective spring rate curve.

I think that's the only "gotcha" about the control arm install. Otherwise it's very easy.