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06-05-2014, 09:43 AM | #1 |
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Dyno Expectations
Hey guys,
I have an 09 135i coupe 6AT with following mods: COBB stage 2+ tune AR catless downpipes Berk street axleback DCI air intake cones ETS 5 Intercooler Alpina B3 transmission tune stock chargepipe Heading to get a car dyno tomorrow, what should my horsepower expectations be? This way I will know if there is a boost leak somewhere. Thanks!
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06-05-2014, 10:33 AM | #2 |
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I'm not sure but I would assume above 350rwhp.
Do you assume you have a boost leak? I'm sure when you look at the dyno chart afterwards you can tell if it's leaking boost or you could do a couple of logs and let some people on the forum check your stuff. |
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06-05-2014, 10:36 AM | #3 |
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It depends on the dyno they all read different. U should be over 350 at wheels. I put down 350 with cobb stage 1 aggressive and dci with oem down pipes
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06-05-2014, 10:40 AM | #4 |
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380whp give or take
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06-05-2014, 12:10 PM | #7 | |
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As for dyno, you probably want to run the cobb map and then compare it to stock. Since every dyno reads different just looking at cobb stage 2 numbers will not ,mean much. Also keep in mind its hot out there so your numbers might be lower that expected.
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06-05-2014, 12:14 PM | #8 |
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+1 on the charge pipe. It was the bane of my existence before I went with an aftermarket pipe with the Tial BOV. Most likely you'll leak boost from the DV's. Throw a couple gals of e85 in and get the COBB e85 map for the dyno.
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06-05-2014, 12:52 PM | #9 |
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Thanks everyone. Reason I suspect a leak is due to poor 1/4 mile time at the track a couple weeks back. 13.46 @ 107mph was my best. Granted i had awful 60' time of 2.2 seconds
Tires: Bridgestone Potenza 760 50% tread.
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06-05-2014, 12:53 PM | #10 |
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Suggestions on Charge Pipe? Is this a fairly easy DIY? The intercooler was a pain but still got it done with a friend's help.
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06-05-2014, 12:54 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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06-05-2014, 12:54 PM | #12 |
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Pump 93 octane fuel and Stage 2+ COBB (aggressive) tune
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06-05-2014, 01:17 PM | #13 |
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06-05-2014, 02:21 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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06-07-2014, 09:19 AM | #15 |
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Came back 341hp. They couldn't do RPM wiring so no torque numbers.
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06-07-2014, 10:19 AM | #16 |
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^^^^ typically you need to bring a hex key to lift the engine cover.
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06-07-2014, 10:39 AM | #17 |
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Yeah that's what they said they would have to do. I also couldn't stay in 4th gear for the life of me, the dyno chart is full of oscillations.
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06-07-2014, 01:14 PM | #18 |
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2023 Jeep Wrangler ... [9.50] 2009 Yamaha V-Star [0.00] Cars 2-BMW, 2-FORD, ... [0.00] 2023 Ford Expeditio ... [0.00] 2020 Z4 M40i [10.00] 2022 BMW M4C [7.25] 1998 FORD Ranger 4X4 [0.00] |
^^^^ I posted how to make a stop that will keep you out of kick down, might be on this site. If a search does not show it let me know & I will cross post it.
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06-16-2014, 11:57 AM | #19 |
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i think he has a pretty nice setup:
COBB stage 2+ tune AR catless downpipes Berk street axleback DCI air intake cones ETS 5 Intercooler Alpina B3 transmission tune stock chargepipe and what can he swap to get like 400whp? or dose he have to swap the turbo? |
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06-17-2014, 12:11 PM | #21 |
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Is it worth it going to a shop to test for boost leak? The one I called last week said I would FOR SURE know if I had a leak somewhere (doesnt seem obvious to me as car still feels powerful)
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06-17-2014, 06:04 PM | #22 |
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I'm fairly certain you have a boost leak. You should be running a lot faster with those mods. This is what I ran with just Cobb Stage 2+ aggressive, Helix FMIC and Raceland downpipes on 93 octane several years ago: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...86&postcount=1
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