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      01-25-2017, 08:24 AM   #23
mr.fabulous
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I replaced the pads and bled the system (two events) when I bought this car two+ years ago. I now have new pads to try and it's time to flush the system again... but I *hate* working on cars and was looking for a way to do all of that once.

It's funny, though... having thought about it, I seem to recall one of my bleed screws (I think it was the LF) being real loose at the threads and pulling air in while bleeding... and everything coming out of that screw was very bubbly. Maybe I don't want to deal with that while trying to swap the pads... and so maybe this becomes two events anyway (which makes this thread a waste of everybody's time and for that I seriously apologize... but it is fun to chat, though).
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      01-28-2017, 02:48 PM   #24
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Cool Carbons are in (replacing PQs, which anybody is welcome to for my cost to ship, how about for burning through a day at the track?). Very surprised to find the rears do not come with pins and springs, that seems wrong. Broke the front wear sensor, cut it off and tied it to the strut. Now all I need is a place to bed these in (which I do not have).

Fluid flush is next weekend, today is as much as my aging back can tolerate.
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      01-30-2017, 03:19 PM   #25
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Firstly, listen to MightyMouse above, some of you guys are making this way too complicated. I used to be a licensed mechanic also. I have built thousands of automatic transmissions etc. I have done hundreds of brake jobs. I have never flushed the brake fluid on any of my own cars. It's not necessary except in unusual circumstances. (Kind of like fuel injector service.) I did a complete brake job last year on my friend's 1991 MR2 (25 years old) and the fluid (original) did not look much different than new. I do understand the business about absorbing water (hygroscopic). Maybe it's different if you seriously track your car. JIM
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