Break-In for 2010 135i

[Castr_85M]

Is their any special instructions for the break in on my new 135i? When i got my G37S they told me to keep it below 4k RPM for 1K miles, when my dad got his Cayenne he was told to drive it how he would normally drive it from the get go. Any special instructions with the N54?

[GaryS]

In my 2009 owner's manual, it is page 96.

[BBBluey]

Be honest, you didn't search this topic at all did you?

[and 1]

manual says something like <4000 rpm for the first 1000 miles, but as long as the car's fully warmed up and everything, there's no reason you can't let her rip a couple times once you get a couple hundred easy miles under her belt. just don't make a habit of it

[Castr_85M]

Originally Posted by TrackRat

The Owner's Manual is your best friend and great reading.

BTW, the Porsche dealer who told your father to drive it how he would normally drive it probably can't read or doesn't know new cars come with an OM. His day job is probably at a Fast Food drive thru...

I know it probably is in the manual, but i didnt get a chance to read it yesterday cause right after picking up the car i dropped it off at home and had to go pick up the girlfriend at the airport.

Originally Posted by BBBluey

Be honest, you didn't search this topic at all did you?

I know

Originally Posted by GaryS

In my 2009 owner's manual, it is page 96.

Thanks, will do as soon as i get home from work today.

Originally Posted by and 1

manual says something like <4000 rpm for the first 1000 miles, but as long as the car's fully warmed up and everything, there's no reason you can't let her rip a couple times once you get a couple hundred easy miles under her belt. just don't make a habit of it

i figured it was something like that, I know i wont be able to resist at least one rip through 2nd gear. soon as i hit 1K Jb3!!!

[titancrusher1]

whoa...no JB3 until you hit 1200 Miles...then just to be safe (after all it is a 45k car) I would get an Intercooler/exhaust/intake combo for the higher maps. Baby your car while you can, you'll regret all the problems some people on here have later on if you dont.

[Castr_85M]

Originally Posted by titancrusher1

whoa...no JB3 until you hit 1200 Miles...then just to be safe (after all it is a 45k car) I would get an Intercooler/exhaust/intake combo for the higher maps. Baby your car while you can, you'll regret all the problems some people on here have later on if you dont.

Well i'm in NY so i only pump 93 octane anyways. Also from my understandin i should be able to run map 5 along with a DCI safely.

[Thud]

I cheated and only followed the break-in for 800 miles.

[RaceTime]

LOL... I drove it kinda nicely... I did have the Dinan tune/flash completed with 5 miles on the car... YEP, 5 miles, before I even took delivery. LOL. It was around mile 1200 before I really found out what the car could do... I drove fairly mildly before that. I do agree on a fresh engine to wait until it is warm to push higher RPMs...

[spud]

I am a Fan of the Drive it like you stole it on Day 1 group. Not to start an argument, just sayin I am part of that crowd.

[rsjean]

Originally Posted by spud

I am a Fan of the Drive it like you stole it on Day 1 group. Not to start an argument, just sayin I am part of that crowd.

What do you play in Vegas?

[spud]

Roulette usually.


Started around 2002 after reading this:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Then i formed my own opinion after 4 sportbikes. Miriad of new cars. 350z, MINI, e46 M3, Ford Ranger... all sorts.

Never had any problems with any of those vehicles engines. All cars but the MINI I had until they were over 65K in mileage. All pulled strong throughout.

I am very aware of how many folks think this is crazy. Just sayin there are other points of view on engine break in.

[jkp1187]

Originally Posted by spud

Roulette usually.


Started around 2002 after reading this:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Then i formed my own opinion after 4 sportbikes. Miriad of new cars. 350z, MINI, e46 M3, Ford Ranger... all sorts.

Never had any problems with any of those vehicles engines. All cars but the MINI I had until they were over 65K in mileage. All pulled strong throughout.

I am very aware of how many folks think this is crazy. Just sayin there are other points of view on engine break in.

Just curious -- did you follow motoman's recommendation to not use synthetic oil for the break-in?

[spud]

Bikes, yes. Car's no. Mostly due to convenience..

All of them, changed the oil at 20 miles, 600 miles and every 5K miles.

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by titancrusher1

whoa...no JB3 until you hit 1200 Miles...then just to be safe (after all it is a 45k car) I would get an Intercooler/exhaust/intake combo for the higher maps. Baby your car while you can, you'll regret all the problems some people on here have later on if you dont.

Like the last 200 miles is really going to make a difference?

What problems are you talking about that would be attributed to the break in period or JB3?

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by spud

Roulette usually.


Started around 2002 after reading this:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Then i formed my own opinion after 4 sportbikes. Miriad of new cars. 350z, MINI, e46 M3, Ford Ranger... all sorts.

Never had any problems with any of those vehicles engines. All cars but the MINI I had until they were over 65K in mileage. All pulled strong throughout.

I am very aware of how many folks think this is crazy. Just sayin there are other points of view on engine break in.

I'm sorry, but this guy's full of shit, and this picture is proof of it:



Here's what he says about it:

These Honda F3 pistons show
the difference.

Although these pistons came out of engines which were raced for a full season, they weren't set-up with any special clearances or other preparation.

These engines were never worked on prior to being raced. They were totally stock as built by Honda.

The only difference was the break in method they used...

The one on the right was broken in as per MotoMan's instructions.

The one on the left was broken in exactly according to the owner's manual. The resulting leaky rings have allowed pressure to "blow by" down into the crankcase on acceleration, and oil to "suck-up" into the combustion chamber on deceleration.
Needless to say, this bike was slow !!

There's no way in hell the pistion on the right was ran for a full season and came out that clean. Even with no oil present there would be evidence of combustion above the rings and on the piston top. That one's completely clean. I've taken pistons out of engines that have only been ran for a few minutes and it's obvious.

Now, believe what you want, but I'll take the word of a team of German engineers backed by the collective experience of about a hundred years of engine building over this guy's:

[Dan135i]

Romp on it, regardless of what the other guy said, new engines are capable of normal driving from day one. They are all factory tested, and wouldn't be selling them if they couldn't be driven that way. It would be a hassle in warranted repairs as most people who buy new cars do forgo this little "break in myth", at least the people in my hot rod minded people. And not one of them has engine problems.

If you are building an engine from scratch with off the shelf parts, thats a different story, and mesh time is needed to hone in the parts... not so with new cars... just not so. Drive it like its hot is my moto.

[rsjean]

Originally Posted by Dan135i

Romp on it, regardless of what the other guy said, new engines are capable of normal driving from day one. They are all factory tested, and wouldn't be selling them if they couldn't be driven that way. It would be a hassle in warranted repairs as most people who buy new cars do forgo this little "break in myth", at least the people in my hot rod minded people. And not one of them has engine problems.

If you are building an engine from scratch with off the shelf parts, thats a different story, and mesh time is needed to hone in the parts... not so with new cars... just not so. Drive it like its hot is my moto.

Every time I read one of these 'expert insider' advice recommendations I always ask the same question and never get a decent answer.

Given that the break in period is really a customer dissatisfier in that everyone hates it - why would a manufacturer go to all the trouble of recommending it and printing it in their documentation? What exactly is in it for them? Is it a source of revenue? Is it a competitive advantage? Does it sell more cars? Does it make them more friends? If you think of the number of engines BMW puts into service every year compared to the number you or I have ever 'broken in' who would have a better knowledgebase to draw from? When bad things happen to engines under warranty - only the manufacturer pays.

So, again I ask - why do they recommend this if, as you have stated, it is nothing more than a "little break in myth"?

[Dan135i]

So they cover their ass "in case shit" Everything in the damn owners book besides how to turn on the radio are there for libel purposes, and if you dont turn on the radio right and it gets fucked, they find out, your paying for it, even when its a manufacture defect... (extreme example for explanation only)

I am by no means an insider as you put it, but I am not new to cars, new or old. NO MANUFACTURE would let a motor go out if it could not be beaten on when it is driven off the lot... I dont know how many factory fresh engines we have put into cars the then proceed to go out onto the track, tear shit up and nothing happens but what is intended, it works fine. It does not cut down the life of the engine, it does not make it weaker, it does not void your warranted engine.

If something catastrophic happens with your engine its a defect and no part of yours for driving your car. Commuters dont deal nearly the amount of stress to the engines as a track driver would and we have never seen one implode because we didnt "break it in properly" according to the manufactures RECOMMENDED but not mandatory manual.

We are not all exacting rule followers, and they know this, they know we all wont follow their recommended guidance. But they have to put it in the book anyways for lawyers sake. How many times have you heard of a car taken back to the dealer for problems, and they told him/her they are SOL because they didnt break it in properly? Id like to see that story.

[rsjean]

Originally Posted by Dan135i

So they cover their ass "in case shit" Everything in the damn owners book besides how to turn on the radio are there for libel purposes, and if you dont turn on the radio right and it gets fucked, they find out, your paying for it, even when its a manufacture defect... (extreme example for explanation only)

I am by no means an insider as you put it, but I am not new to cars, new or old. NO MANUFACTURE would let a motor go out if it could not be beaten on when it is driven off the lot... I dont know how many factory fresh engines we have put into cars the then proceed to go out onto the track, tear shit up and nothing happens but what is intended, it works fine. It does not cut down the life of the engine, it does not make it weaker, it does not void your warranted engine.

If something catastrophic happens with your engine its a defect and no part of yours for driving your car. Commuters dont deal nearly the amount of stress to the engines as a track driver would and we have never seen one implode because we didnt "break it in properly" according to the manufactures RECOMMENDED but not mandatory manual.

We are not all exacting rule followers, and they know this, they know we all wont follow their recommended guidance. But they have to put it in the book anyways for lawyers sake. How many times have you heard of a car taken back to the dealer for problems, and they told him/her they are SOL because they didnt break it in properly? Id like to see that story.

This makes absolutely no sense.

Establishing a fictitious ritual for customers to go through for a mere 1200 miles as some sort of clandestine plot to screw people out of their coverage and to save money and limit liabilty is a viewpoint that I for one have never seen in a career of product development and product management in very very large companies. Companies like structured like BMW where the legal team are a resource to the SPG's which resulted in a pretty keen understanding and close working relationship with these very same evil doers you describe the corporate General Councils Office.

Companies like BMW are certainly not going to allow themselves to be put at undue risk - but rest assured they are not plotting against you nor are they even toying with you. They have too much at stake and too tough a battle in just rermaining competitive on a product and customer service basis.

[larryn]

Deja vu, all over again, and again, and again, and again, and again.

There's gotta be 40 threads out there started by lazy folk who refuse to search. Don't feed these people by replying (the same things that others have replied many times in the past).

The answer to the OP's question is to search.

[spud]

Again it is 50/50 usually. I am in agreement that the recommended break in is for legal and long term warranty cost saving purposes. When you mass produce engines, the game is a bit different if QC got out of hand for "ONE DAY" at the plant.

Very similar to how BMW changed their "documentation" on when to change oil, brake fluid, etc once they started the "no maintenance" program. I wish i had links to compare the owners manuals to the older BMW's to now, but they are different. Some due to better oil, but not so much IMO.

http://www.nmradigital.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=48590

The above is a link to a tech who works for a NASCAR team. Same thing on their engine, run it hard to get the gunk out, machine shavings and to seat the rings.


Lets see if we can keep discussing this as adults. There is no need to call people names because you dont agree. Disagreeing is perfectly fine, just respect that other folks have different opinions. Ask my WIFE lol


Another link with similar opinion.

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techar..._in/index.html


Yes these are for race engines, but I believe the concept should be the same.