Car & Driver: 2011 135i DCT First Drive Review - 4.6s / 13.2s (estimated)

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by twoturboz

It must be? Considering there is 0 traffic or instances where I have to stop, and I'm on cruise control, [I think colder mornings help too] my actual average is about 30-34. I also feel like the freeway I'm usually on [I-5 mission viejo to anaheim] slightly slopes up and down a lot especially on curves and the coasting via cruise control really takes full advantage. I probably sometimes artificially throw my milage up about 1mpg when I get off a long off ramp I'll stick myself in a dead exit lane and coast down for about 1/4th mile before the actual off ramp and it usually works out where I can just downshift and not even brake.

It still amazes me, 30-34mpg?
I drive to Indy on I65, which is flat an straight, no stops for about 140 miles, and the best I've seen is 25-28mpg at about 80mph avg, depending on the wind.

I'm taking a drive down south close to 240miles. It'll be interesting to see if the new software flash changes anything.
Still, I haven't experienced anything close to your mileage.
My daily commute is mixed driving, about 50% highway, and I average 22-23mpg, and I do that drive with "short" shifts, out of 1st about 2200rpm, and the rest around 2500rpm, so I'm not getting on it.
Interestingly, driving with slow accel and short shift like that, I've only managed a 1-1.5mpg increase. Doesn't seem worth it, cause driving with shifts at 3000rpm and 3500rpm doesn't seem to give that much lower mpg.

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by emtrey

forget the OBC--close but can not be trusted in "spurts"...Just fill the tank--let it stop automatically and divide mileage on odo by gas consumed.

Do this for 2-3 tanks and you will have your true AVERAGE gas mileage. I average 23 with 70% highway and somewhat spirited driving. NO burnouts. (my car is a steptronic--DS engaged when off highway most of the time and sixth gear on highway)

I don't know what others use, but I always do the math method.
I'm not sure what your method is, it's a bit confusing to understand.
I think you do what I do. I fill the tank till the pump stops, and never "top off". I reset miles traveled. When I need gas, I fill up the tank, take the gallons I put in and divide by the mileage driven since the last fill up
The OBC and my calculations are pretty close. The OBC isn't that much different in my E46, A4, or my 135i.

[emtrey]

Originally Posted by RPM90

I don't know what others use, but I always do the math method.
I'm not sure what your method is, it's a bit confusing to understand.
I think you do what I do. I fill the tank till the pump stops, and never "top off". I reset miles traveled. When I need gas, I fill up the tank, take the gallons I put in and divide by the mileage driven since the last fill up
The OBC and my calculations are pretty close. The OBC isn't that much different in my E46, A4, or my 135i.

sorry if I did not write it clearly.

We use exactly the same method for calculating mpg.

[pDz]

Originally Posted by shivsuxbutt

Funny how that live axle set-up is out running cars none of here would have thought possible to include the Porsche. Also Ford Racing Performance Parts offers a suspension option for this car!

unless you live your life on a smooth racetrack......it's actually pretty noticeable on roads around here where i test drove 2010s.



the new engines are a brilliant move by Ford.

the only problem is, after you load up a 2010 Mustang GT (not even a 2011 GT with the 5.0), it's as much as a 135i convertible. obviously different reasons to buy either car, but i chose the latter.

[Tom K.]

Originally Posted by RPM90

The OBC and my calculations are pretty close. The OBC isn't that much different in my E46, A4, or my 135i.

My '99 OBC is 9% optimistic and my '03 Z4 read 5 1/2% high, but my '08 128i is only off by about 1%.

Tom

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by RPM90

It still amazes me, 30-34mpg?
I drive to Indy on I65, which is flat an straight, no stops for about 140 miles, and the best I've seen is 25-28mpg at about 80mph avg, depending on the wind.

.

I've done TONS of highway miles in my car (I've got 43k on it in two years and only have a 4 mile commute daily) , and have never seen better than 28MPG, even running right at the speed limit. Some of these numbers being tossed around aren't even remotely realistic IMO.

[pDz]

Originally Posted by jeremyc74

I've done TONS of highway miles in my car (I've got 43k on it in two years and only have a 4 mile commute daily) , and have never seen better than 28MPG, even running right at the speed limit. Some of these numbers being tossed around aren't even remotely realistic IMO.

i concur.

i had an R56 Mini Cooper S and it was a stretch even in cruise control driving to get better than 33mpg's on the highway.

just barely breaking 30mpgs on a long drive with all cruise control is believeable on the N54, but higher than that is just not.

[Angry3]

Originally Posted by pDz

i concur.

i had an R56 Mini Cooper S and it was a stretch even in cruise control driving to get better than 33mpg's on the highway.

just barely breaking 30mpgs on a long drive with all cruise control is believeable on the N54, but higher than that is just not.

+2. I have a 50/50 city highway commute and average anywhere from 19-22 mpg depending on how much go pedal is used. The trips I've taken usually result in about 26 mpg with a 75-80 mph cruise. I have a vert, so there's a bit of an aerodynamic and weight penalty my car carries.

The 6MT cars definitely are handicapped in the highway mpg contest with their shorter 6th gear. At 80 they're spinning 2 or 300 more RPMs than the Steps. I'd think 27-28 mpg would be pretty close to the upper limit for a manual coupe, add 1 mpg for an auto.

I'll buy 335 owners getting 30 mpg on trips regularly, those cars don't have the aerodynamic properties of a brick like ours do Not buying that there are people here legitimately getting over 30 on trips in anything but the short term and ideal conditions (speed limit cruise, flat ground, etc.). If it's really true there are some big time disparities in MPG from car to car.

If the reports of the '11 models having EPA highway ratings of 30 are true that's a huge jump over the N54 cars. A 10% increase in economy is definitely nothing to sneeze at.

[bep]

"the convertible feels both heavier and slightly less nimble in spirited driving, though we could hardly characterize it as sloppy. That said, we don’t expect too many 135i convertible owners to head to the track in their cars, so that’s a relatively moot point. Convertible buyers want convertibles, and this one continues to require very few sacrifices as compared to the coupe"

I have a convertible and want it to be freaking fast and would take it to a racetrack at anytime. If i just wanted a "convertible" I'd go with a Miata

Originally Posted by Moo

2011 BMW 135i DCT - First Drive Review
A dual-clutch automated manual brings virility to BMW’s potent 135i.

BY STEVE SILER
May 2010

BMW’s 135i coupe and convertible may not look much different for 2011, but with a new turbocharged inline-six engine and a newly available dual-clutch automated manual transmission, the 2011 135i certainly feels different. We came to this conclusion following our first opportunity to sample the new 135i on the roads around New Jersey Motorsports Park, as well as on its “Lightning” track, during BMW’s recent 2011 model rollout.

On paper, the differences are slight. Cosmetic and interior changes are more or less limited to reshuffled option packages. While the single-turbo N55 replaces the award-winning N54 twin-turbo motor in all 135s, its output figures are technically the same as those of the N54: 300 hp and 300 lb-ft of torque, with peak torque now occurring 200 rpm sooner. (We say “technically the same” because it has been our longtime suspicion that the N54 is actually 20 to 30 hp more powerful than BMW claims and it’s possible that the N55’s ratings are not similarly underestimated.) The dual-clutch transmission is the same DCT-branded gearbox offered in the Z4. It replaces the 135i’s optional six-speed automatic and costs $200 more, while a six-speed manual is still the standard transmission option; the 128i continues with the choice of six-speed manual or traditional automatic.

Credit the Transmission More Than the Engine

The close-ratio, seven-speed dual-clutch gearbox feels far better than the conventional autobox it replaces, which itself was a swell-enough automatic. By virtue of its conventionality, however, the auto couldn’t deliver an almost uninterrupted stream of torque to the rear wheels as does the DCT. The outgoing slushbox was also hamstrung by its artful but clumsy-to-use optional shift “paddles,” which required a push for downshifts and a pull for upshifts. The DCT comes with honest-to-goodness, pull-only steering-wheel paddles–downshift on the left, upshift on the right–that make far easier work of changing gears during high-intensity driving.

We generally prefer the driver involvement of traditional manual transmissions, especially when they’re as good as the ones offered on most BMW models. In the case of the 135i, the fitment of the DCT may close the preference gap for some, and will very likely improve acceleration times. The difference in character between the N54 and N55 seems minimal, at least in this application, but it’s the DCT’s quick shifts that improve the experience, keeping the engine in the power better than the automatic was able to. We expect that the DCT will bring 0-to-60-mph times down by a tenth or two compared to manual-equipped 135s, into the mid-four-second range. The quickest 135i we’ve tested, a manual-equipped coupe, took only 4.7 seconds to reach 60, while a three-pedal convertible completed the task in 4.9.

As expected, the convertible feels both heavier and slightly less nimble in spirited driving, though we could hardly characterize it as sloppy. That said, we don’t expect too many 135i convertible owners to head to the track in their cars, so that’s a relatively moot point. Convertible buyers want convertibles, and this one continues to require very few sacrifices as compared to the coupe.

So the good news is that the switch from twin- to single-turbo six hasn’t affected the 135i’s character noticeably. As long as BMW’s output claims are on the up and up, performance should improve, too—we’ll wait for a formal test session to confirm that. Those who would have chosen the automatic last year will be happy with the dual-clutch upgrade. The better news is that the three-pedal manual is still available—at least for now. Let’s keep it that way, okay BMW?

Specifications

VEHICLE TYPE: front-engine, rear-wheel-drive, 4-passenger, 2-door coupe or convertible

BASE PRICE: $38,500–42,800

ENGINE TYPE: turbocharged and intercooled DOHC 24-valve inline-6, aluminum block and head, direct fuel injection

Displacement: 182 cu in, 2979 cc
Power (SAE net): 300 bhp @ 5800 rpm
Torque (SAE net): 300 lb-ft @ 1200 rpm

TRANSMISSION: 7-speed dual-clutch automated manual

DIMENSIONS:
Wheelbase: 104.7 in Length: 172.2 in
Width: 68.8 in Height: 55.4 in
Curb weight (mfr’s est): 3450–3700 lb

PERFORMANCE (C/D EST):
Zero to 60 mph: 4.6 sec
Standing ¼-mile: 13.2 sec
Top speed (governor limited): 130–150 mph

FUEL ECONOMY:
EPA city/highway driving: 18/25 mpg

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...t_drive_review

[TMR013]

Another first drive impression from Motor Authority

http://www.motorauthority.com/blog/1...1-bmw-135i-dct

Interesting quote:
"Beyond the new DCT gearbox, there's not a whole lot new to tell about the 2011 135i. It gets the new N55 single-turbo, twin-scroll arrangement that's permeating the rest of the lineup, but having driven the 2010 135i for a full week before flying out to New Jersey, we can say with confidence that 99 percent of drivers won't notice a difference, on-track or off. The boost supplied by the single-turbo setup comes on smoothly and digs well from low rpms. It breathes just fine up top, too, running strong to its redline, though like nearly any turbo engine, it feels strongest before the final 1,000 rpms. In short: you won't miss the N54 in 135i guise, and you may even pick up an mpg or two."

[JimmyT]

did BMW do anything to the suspension on the 2011 135i to make it a better driver's car right out of the box, or will one still need a load of suspension work to get over it's tendency to understeer????

[jc_lbc]

According to most reports they have indeed done something. How much they've done or how much of a difference it really makes hasn't been flushed out yet it seems.

[mapezzul]

Originally Posted by JimmyT

did BMW do anything to the suspension on the 2011 135i to make it a better driver's car right out of the box, or will one still need a load of suspension work to get over it's tendency to understeer????

The understeer is also due to the staggered tires, something most people forget.

The suspension is improved but how much is up to the driver. It is not as floaty and has less initial roll as the spring rates are consistent and higher than before. All 2011s with ZSP, ZMP, "IS" have had this done as per the engineer I talked with.

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted by jc_lbc

According to most reports they have indeed done something. How much they've done or how much of a difference it really makes hasn't been flushed out yet it seems.

I wonder if this is part of the reason why the rear bike rack is no longer available. Silly correlation, yes, but isnt there weight in the rear bumper somehow?

[NYC6]

Originally Posted by mapezzul

The understeer is also due to the staggered tires, something most people forget.
The suspension is improved but how much is up to the driver. It is not as floaty and has less initial roll as the spring rates are consistent and higher than before. All 2011s with ZSP, ZMP, "IS" have had this done as per the engineer I talked with.

Indy cars, NASCAR, F1 and most top Sports cars have different size F/R. That has nothing to do with the handling characteristics of the car.

[old1]

Originally Posted by roundel

i actually feel sorry for the prev gen slushbox owners. This DCT is a dramatic improvement. Leaning towards an AW DCT purchase.

The DCT durability is still a question. If I remember correctly C&D had a long term BMW test car with one that seemed "tired" after only one year. Not good.

[ChrisK]

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/...term_road_test

[mapezzul]

Originally Posted by NYC6

Indy cars, NASCAR, F1 and most top Sports cars have different size F/R. That has nothing to do with the handling characteristics of the car.

It has a lot to do with handling when you are dealing with a car with 50/50 weight. Tire pressure/compound also plays a significant roll. I am not trying to argue but suspension is not the only thing that makes a car understeer, if the suspension is dialed in to be neutral with a stagger then there is some compensation made in the geometry or tire makeup.

A car setup with a stagger will not handle the same as that same car with identical tires on all 4 corners so different tires does affect handling- go try it if you do not believe me. It is also worth noting that many that track there cars often get rid of the stagger for more neutral handling (allows the front more bite and less understeer). The cars you mentioned as being staggered often use different pressures and compounds on each tire based on the specific track and wear cycle to control the contact patch, as well as each spring rate dampening being specific- not really real world.

Tires play a huge roll- a 5 PSI difference can induce severe understeer.... learned this not that long ago (not mention cold tires).

[NYC6]

Handling has alot more to do with the other things you mentioned than a couple mm smaller fronts. We agree to disagree.

For the record, my C6 Vette comes from the factory with 285/245 tires and now sports 325/275, 40 and 50mm respectfully, same compound and pressures. And I did list most Sports cars, I threw in the others for the heck of it. As far as different compounds, tire pressure, thats not the case with any street cars I know. Very real world indeed.

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by NYC6

Handling has alot more to do with the other things you mentioned than a couple mm smaller fronts. We agree to disagree.

.

Exactly. If fixing the understeer issues on the 135i was as easy as putting a square setup on it, we'd all do it. The reality is it doesn't work. The problem is so bad at least one of the race teams has resorted to running wider tires up front than in the rear. You can reduce rear grip to the point where it's the same as the front, but that doesn't make the car faster around a track.

[jeremyc74]

Originally Posted by mapezzul

It has a lot to do with handling when you are dealing with a car with 50/50 weight.

We're not though. The 1 Series is nose heavy.

[egainer]

Originally Posted by jeremyc74

We're not though. The 1 Series is nose heavy.

Has this changed for the 2011 models? BMW says 50/50 weight distribution for the 2011

edit: this says for the 128, even though it is listed under the 135i.

135i is 51.6/48.4%