Stupid slow and angry

[grunyon]

I am a 2008 BMW 135i 6MT with G5 JB4 w/ NLS & DPfix, BMS WW Meth (running WW fluid), BMS DCI, VRSF Downpipes and 265 wide super sports in the back. I've been to the track twice and the best I could do in the 1/4 mile was a 12.9. I've sent logs to Terry and everything looks pretty solid. Drove my friends car with the same mods and his feels beast compared to mine. I have a week off from work and I want to do anything I can to do any maintenance or diagnosing or whatever to help determine why I feel like I'm about a second slow at the track.

I just had the 45k done at the dealership last year (car has 53k miles now) so I am confident the plugs and such are in good condition. I'm thinking of buying the special socket to inspect them anyway. I have been logging with my JB4 and I have a BT cable now that I am going to try to use to see if something is wrong without throwing a check engine light. With the BT cable I also recently installed the back end flash which some people claim they could feel a night and day difference but I really couldn't. Terry also recommended that I upgrade to trunk mount and try high meth concentrations so that tank just came in today and I'll be installing it. He also mentioned my IAT temps were high at the track so I ordered a big tom from Sweden and that showed up and will be installed as well once my silicone shows up on Tuesday. Before my 45k service I used to throw cyl.5 misfire codes and even though new plugs made that go away I went through each of my coils and measured the resistance and 5 was way off (2nd back from front) so it got replaced. I am reading that high IAT temps and cyl.5 misfires could also be because of carbon buildup, so I will be walnut blasting my valves as well.

Besides driver mod, can anyone here recommend anything else that I should look into or try before going back to the track? I'm thinking free mods, maintenance stuff not listed in the service manual (carbon cleaning), and testing any components that I can. Should I bother boost leak testing even if I am hitting and maintaining target boost? Also, I got the oil changed @ 6k miles / 1 year and I lost enough oil to bring the level down low enough for an oil light on the dash telling me the oil was below minimum. So however many quarts that is. Perhaps I am getting PCV valve blowby and crazy gunked valves?

Thanks for any advice.


Timeslips:

View post on imgur.com

[c_ozanich]

Originally Posted by grunyon

I am a 2008 BMW 135i 6MT with G5 JB4, BMS WW Meth (running WW fluid), BMS DCI, VRSF Downpipes and 265 wide super sports in the back. I've been to the track twice and the best I could do in the 1/4 mile was a 12.9. I've sent logs to Terry and everything looks pretty solid. Drove my friends car with the same mods and his feels beast compared to mine. I have a week off from work and I want to do anything I can to do any maintenance or diagnosing or whatever to help determine why I feel like I'm about a second slow at the track.

I just had the 45k done at the dealership last year (car has 53k miles now) so I am confident the plugs and such are in good condition. I'm thinking of buying the special socket to inspect them anyway. I have been logging with my JB4 and I have a BT cable now that I am going to try to use to see if something is wrong without throwing a check engine light. With the BT cable I also recently installed the back end flash which some people claim they could feel a night and day difference but I really couldn't. Terry also recommended that I upgrade to trunk mount and try high meth concentrations so that tank just came in today and I'll be installing it. He also mentioned my IAT temps were high at the track so I ordered a big tom from Sweden and that showed up and will be installed as well once my silicone shows up on Tuesday. Before my 45k service I used to throw cyl.5 misfire codes and even though new plugs made that go away I went through each of my coils and measured the resistance and 5 was way off (2nd back from front) so it got replaced. I am reading that high IAT temps and cyl.5 misfires could also be because of carbon buildup, so I will be walnut blasting my valves as well.

Besides driver mod, can anyone here recommend anything else that I should look into or try before going back to the track? I'm thinking free mods, maintenance stuff not listed in the service manual (carbon cleaning), and testing any components that I can. Should I bother boost leak testing even if I am hitting and maintaining target boost?

Thanks for any advice.

If you are maintaining target boost I wouldn't think a boost leak is the issue. I would definitely walnut blast your valves. Also might want to check that your software is up to date--I just had mine upgraded and car feels a lot different. Steering is heavier (in a good way, feels planted/solid) and boost feels like it operates in a smoother curve. Just a thought that your buddy and you might be on different software versions, that's where that came from.

[b1aze]

From my experience with JB4, the actual hex file makes a huge difference in the way the car feels. Also, being sure to do appropriate adaptation pulls in map5 should net you the most power.

[grunyon]

Originally Posted by c_ozanich

If you are maintaining target boost I wouldn't think a boost leak is the issue. I would definitely walnut blast your valves. Also might want to check that your software is up to date--I just had mine upgraded and car feels a lot different. Steering is heavier (in a good way, feels planted/solid) and boost feels like it operates in a smoother curve. Just a thought that your buddy and you might be on different software versions, that's where that came from.

Are you suggesting I use the BT cable to flash my car back to original, take it to BMW and ask for the latest update, then reflash the car back to Race?

[Davyhay]

Clean them valves, man.

[grunyon]

Originally Posted by Davyhay

Clean them valves, man.

Probably going to attempt this today, depending on how things go. Right now resetting adaptations, double checking 02 sensor placement in my downpipes, and cleaning carbon are my best hopes. I don't think this is worth a full second, though?

Updated top post with a picture of my best times.

[LAZ]

Originally Posted by grunyon

I am a 2008 BMW 135i 6MT with G5 JB4 w/ NLS & DPfix, BMS WW Meth (running WW fluid), BMS DCI, VRSF Downpipes and 265 wide super sports in the back. I've been to the track twice and the best I could do in the 1/4 mile was a 12.9. I've sent logs to Terry and everything looks pretty solid. Drove my friends car with the same mods and his feels beast compared to mine. I have a week off from work and I want to do anything I can to do any maintenance or diagnosing or whatever to help determine why I feel like I'm about a second slow at the track.

I just had the 45k done at the dealership last year (car has 53k miles now) so I am confident the plugs and such are in good condition. I'm thinking of buying the special socket to inspect them anyway. I have been logging with my JB4 and I have a BT cable now that I am going to try to use to see if something is wrong without throwing a check engine light. With the BT cable I also recently installed the back end flash which some people claim they could feel a night and day difference but I really couldn't. Terry also recommended that I upgrade to trunk mount and try high meth concentrations so that tank just came in today and I'll be installing it. He also mentioned my IAT temps were high at the track so I ordered a big tom from Sweden and that showed up and will be installed as well once my silicone shows up on Tuesday. Before my 45k service I used to throw cyl.5 misfire codes and even though new plugs made that go away I went through each of my coils and measured the resistance and 5 was way off (2nd back from front) so it got replaced. I am reading that high IAT temps and cyl.5 misfires could also be because of carbon buildup, so I will be walnut blasting my valves as well.

Besides driver mod, can anyone here recommend anything else that I should look into or try before going back to the track? I'm thinking free mods, maintenance stuff not listed in the service manual (carbon cleaning), and testing any components that I can. Should I bother boost leak testing even if I am hitting and maintaining target boost? Also, I got the oil changed @ 6k miles / 1 year and I lost enough oil to bring the level down low enough for an oil light on the dash telling me the oil was below minimum. So however many quarts that is. Perhaps I am getting PCV valve blowby and crazy gunked valves?

Thanks for any advice.


Timeslips:

View post on imgur.com

What are your tires like? are they worn? brand spanking new? Your traps of 111 mph seem alittle low. I would think, with your setup, you should be trapping around 115-118

I have ran 12.8s w/ meth and DP on worn street tires. I eventually went back when i changed tires and went from 12.8 to 12.5. Usually every tenth of a second you shave off of your 60 foot would have a direct effect on your 1/4 times. My car is automatic.

Also what is your meth additive set too? are you holding about 16-17 psi? on map 3?
are you running 93 oct?
Do you turn off DTC?

[grunyon]

I have brand new michelin pilot super sports. I also went wider in the back from 245 to 265. I am on apex arc-8's.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

You never said what your 60 cfoot time was, also 1/8 mile speed & time is good info to post. Don't know what the 45K service is but if you did not get plugs you need to do them right away.

[ShocknAwe]

With those mods and that time? Assuming you haven't already, get the valves cleaned and then try again at the strip. I think you'll be surprised (or maybe you won't if you've seen the threads around here...)

[Davyhay]

If your valves are really dirty, with your mods, it could very well make a 30-40hp difference. Also, with your best trap speeds, you should be in the 12.5-12.6 range. You need to work on cutting a good 60'.

[grunyon]

Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

You never said what your 60 cfoot time was, also 1/8 mile speed & time is good info to post. Don't know what the 45K service is but if you did not get plugs you need to do them right away.

There's a picture of my best time slips up top

I'll get the special spark plug socket and check them. The 45k service is supposed to include spark plugs. Also, on every vehicle I've ever had, when I increased the boost I changed the gap and/or heat range of the plugs accordingly. Is this something that should be done on our cars? I see zero discussion of stuff like that here...

I'm going to clean my valves. I feel like I should grab a catch can and perhaps look into testing/replacing/upgrading my PCV valve so the problem doesn't come back as quickly.

[froop]

What does your car dyno at? Just curious as your trap speeds are a little average.

My car is FBO running a Procede with 100% meth. I dyno'd on a dyno dynamics roller at 400rwhp. The best I've trapped is 120mph on a 9 degree Celsius night. My best time so far is a 12.5@116 though with a 2.068 60ft. I don't use NLS.

To be honest your slow times come down mostly to your slow 60ft times. If you were to get a 2.0x 60ft with good shifts you should be able to pull a 12.6-7 I'd think. My 60ft times are rubbish too.

Another thing that could have an effect on your times and overall trap speeds is your shifting. You said you're using NLS so that mostly takes technique out of the equation. What RPM are you shifting at?

[LAZ]

Originally Posted by grunyon

I have brand new michelin pilot super sports. I also went wider in the back from 245 to 265. I am on apex arc-8's.

So do you turn off DTC? if its ON then it will cut your power if it detects too much wheel spin, which in turn will slow you down.
New tires sometimes have an oily surface that takes time to wear off. so this may be also slowing you down.

It helps to know your your meth settings...you may be trapping so low due to your settings being off..maybe you are not putting out max psi therefore you may be lacking anywhere between 10 to 30 hp...