01-11-2012, 08:04 PM | #1 |
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Shipping Damage / What to do...
Hey all...
I was wondering what other Enthusiasts feel is the right solution to the issue of my car which was damaged in transit. I picked up my 1M today at my local dealership. I had opted for European delivery, which I highly recommend. Unfortunately during the shipping process some corrosive fluid (likely brake or hydraulic fluid) dripped onto the hood causing permanent damage to the clear coat on the hood. There are two marks, they look like bird poop, but are unfortunateley permanent. To the dealership's credit, they made me aware of the issue and have assured me they will resolve the problem. As I see it, there are 3 solutions, first repaint the entire hood, secondly swap the hood with another alpine white car and lastly have the marks buffed and have the damage blown in. My concern with swapping the hood is the serial number, which is stamped or marked on each major body component would no longer match, however the paint would be factory original. What would you rather do? B |
01-11-2012, 08:15 PM | #4 |
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Don't change the hood. Paint it. Otherwise the resale value will be adversely affected. They can remove the hood, electralytically paint it, and bake it an oven to achieve the factory finish.
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01-12-2012, 12:51 AM | #5 |
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Thanks for the suggestions...
Sounds like paint is the way to go. Painting anything on a brand new car makes me cringe!
Anyone have any recommendations for Southern Ontario? B |
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01-12-2012, 06:47 AM | #7 |
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I'd let the dealer choose (with your approval) - that way, they're on the hook for the quality of the job. If you choose, they could deny responsibility for a lousy job.
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01-12-2012, 09:25 AM | #8 |
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Mate, how about you have the area WETSANDED first and see if that takes care of the mark. That might be the safest option here rather than already having your bonnet be repainted right off the bat.
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01-12-2012, 09:42 AM | #9 |
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Try compound first. If no good, then paint.
It's not the same as painting after a declared accident that'll reflect on your Carfax. No one will ever care. .
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01-12-2012, 09:45 AM | #10 |
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I vote for paint. It's a part they can completely remove and respray the entire thing. No blending required. Plus it's a new car so it should match flawlessly.
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01-12-2012, 11:52 AM | #11 |
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What Kirk and P1et said. Compound on heavy cut foam pad, then moving up to wool rotary. If that does not get it then wet sand. If that does not get it, or lowers the level of the clear coat too much then re-spray. Most US auto repair shops will re-spary due to environmental laws, if you can find a shop that offers electrostatic painting jump at it!
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01-12-2012, 11:58 AM | #12 |
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I believe only the primer is electrostatically applied and I see no reason they need to strip to bare metal. I would think scuff sanding, possibly a layer of sealer, then paint and clear coat. But I agree that the dealer should propose what and where and you should agree unless you have a strong objection. I would think they would want to paint.
Jim
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01-12-2012, 12:02 PM | #13 |
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I would do as others are suggesting. A wet sand could fix the issue. My boy at Lucci Elite just did this. Look at this link, or call him tell him Waleed mentioned to call and see what he says. Phone number is (949) 436-0837 http://www.luxury4play.com/detailing...cci-elite.html
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01-12-2012, 12:14 PM | #14 |
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Have the hood painted. Take it to an expert body shop, one the specializes in high end cars. Maybe they can fix it by wetsanding the area. IF not painting the hood will be required.
Btw... when I toured Leipzig Werk, in the paint shop they allow their paint expert's as much time as they need - to make paint corrections. They use a small wool-like buffer pads(2 inch dia, pneumatic powered) to polish out any paint imperfections. And after they are done - they do not clear coat that area! The tour guide said it is not needed. Something special about the (ceramic)paint I think. I rememebr one Vert that had all these dots around the hood(to mark areas that needed work). The guy down in the paint shop would just work on each area (one by one) to get it perfect! It was very artistic to watch these guys at work. |
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01-12-2012, 12:37 PM | #15 |
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Combo Solution...
I think that P1et's wet sanding solution is a great idea, if they can wet sand the damage, as the fluid burnt through the clear coat, polishing down to the base coat on the entire hood, then reapplying the clear coat, that might maintain the integrity of the color.
The problem with letting the dealer do it, is that, in my experience anyway, their goal is 'acceptable' while my goal is 'perfect'. Acceptable and perfect usually are priced differently. I would rather pay for perfect than settle for acceptable. Thanks for everyones input, it has been really helpful! B |
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01-12-2012, 01:02 PM | #16 |
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I would have thought BMW would have taken care of this at thier vehicle distribution center when the car came in from Europe unless they didn't notice it.
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01-12-2012, 01:10 PM | #17 |
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If there are no serial number tags on the hood, myself I would ask they swap it with an other new 1 series. OEM paint will always be better than a repaint.
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01-12-2012, 01:26 PM | #18 |
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Hmm... That's a tough call. I think since the car is so new, getting the paint code and having the hood resprayed could be an option that works, however there's always the off chance that it just never comes out looking as clean. On the other hand, swapping the hood ensures a perfect match.
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01-12-2012, 01:51 PM | #19 |
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Having been in a situation much like yours when I took delivery of my VO 1M I highly recommend having the hood repainted. I received my car with an large dent in the roof and a good amount of paint missing. This was the shipping companies fault but the dealership I took it to was able to match the paint perfectly (the second time). If you take anything from this post my ONE piece of advice is this: Do NOT under any circumstances accept your car from the dealership after the hood has been painted unless it is a sunny day and take with you a pair of polarized sunglasses to inspect the paint job. The first time I went to pick up my car everything looked amazing until I inspected the paint with sunglasses and it was completely visible where the sanding and blocking and repainting had occurred. It was due to the fact that the only company that currently produces this color paint uses a water based primer therefore it did not blend into the existing paint properly. The second time around they got it right and I couldn't be happier with the results. Even I cannot tell anything ever happened to the roof. I wish you the best and with all that being said AW should be much easier to match than VO or BSM.
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01-12-2012, 01:53 PM | #20 |
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Whoever is at fault obviously must pay for the damage so make clear you won't accept the car unless it is perfect. That is how you left it in their care and that is how you expect it returned to you. After all thats why they have insurance.
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01-12-2012, 02:03 PM | #21 |
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OP - who ever you take your car too, make sure they garanty their work for say four or five years. Often times, the repair area will look Ok - but a year or two down the road... the clear coat light spider-web or start peel off. It's standard practice for German body shops to garranty their work for five years. Also when you go to pick up the car... sometimes it helps pulling the car under fluorescent lighting(like inside most repair shops/dealers). Have a car buddy also come with you to inspect the final paint repair... because four eyes are better than TWO!
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01-12-2012, 04:02 PM | #22 |
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OP, I feel your pain. I would stress to the dealer that you will accept nothing shy of a flawless repair, and let them decide how to approach it. Dealers often have a rep from whatever body shop they deal with that can come down and look at the car at the dealership.
Can't help you with any recommended shops in the Belleville area, but if they give you the option to go where you want, European Auto Body in Etobicoke is owned by the Maranello Group (Maranello BMW) and it's where you'd take your Ferrari to get repaired. |
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