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06-18-2015, 01:28 PM | #1 |
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Why do wheel bolts become loose?
So this week i was shocked to notice that my wheel bolts where loose! Much more than they should be!
When switching from winters, I used a torque wrench and rechecked a few days later. Should I be concerned? Do I need new bolts Are studs a safer choice in this situation? Thanks!
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06-18-2015, 09:31 PM | #2 | |
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If you did both of these, not sure what else, unless the threads are possibly worn? Did you ever over-tighten the bolts? |
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06-19-2015, 09:00 AM | #3 | |
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What gave it away for me that something was off was this wooden style creaking noise when i applied the brakes after a drive when the car is warm.
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, 3.73 diff, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: //M front arm, M3 rack, e36M lip Wishlist: Coils, n55 mnts, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff "The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is |
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06-19-2015, 11:08 AM | #5 |
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06-19-2015, 11:50 AM | #6 |
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Good point for others, but I use OEM wheels.
What about studs? Will studs offer increased safety in such an event?
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, 3.73 diff, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: //M front arm, M3 rack, e36M lip Wishlist: Coils, n55 mnts, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff "The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is |
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06-19-2015, 12:29 PM | #7 | |
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06-19-2015, 01:14 PM | #8 |
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Something happened putting your wheels on. Did you use a torque wrench? Maybe it was not set properly? Same thing would have happened with studs. Was the face of the rotor and the hub clean? Mounting surface of the rim clean?
Last edited by MightyMouseTech; 06-19-2015 at 01:24 PM.. |
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06-19-2015, 01:30 PM | #9 |
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Here's my top tip for ensuring wheel bolts/nuts to get properly torqued. When the car is in the air, put the wheels on, with bolts/nuts going on in a star pattern. Put them on snugly. Lower the car onto the ground, roll it back and forth about 2-3 feet, THEN set your torque wrench and do the final torquing. This ensures that the wheel is perfectly seated on the hub. This trick has worked without fault for years, and after informing a few friends of the this, has saved them from some dangerous potential accidents on track.
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06-22-2015, 09:42 AM | #10 |
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This may have happened. I noticed residue on the bolts this past weekend during my redo of the process.
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, 3.73 diff, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: //M front arm, M3 rack, e36M lip Wishlist: Coils, n55 mnts, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff "The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is |
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06-22-2015, 11:06 AM | #11 |
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I've must have done 100-200 wheel changes over the years and have never had such an issue and I use a thin film of anti seize on my threads.
I think the idea mentioned above by Ginger has merit. NOW, the only time my studs/nuts have come a bit loose is after my first track session of a driving school (HPDE). I think everybody has to re-torque their wheels. Which brings up the question: did you notice this after a long highway drive? |
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06-22-2015, 11:55 AM | #12 |
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I always retorque after a few drives when I take my wheels off. I havent had an issue with my 1er but have had a wheel lug come out in the past with aftermarket wheels on a previous car...luckily it was a slow drive when I noticed and didnt cause any damage. That experience makes me always worry and recheck...cant hurt!
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06-22-2015, 06:57 PM | #13 |
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Retorqueing after a few miles certainly can't hurt, but think of how many people just go to to a tire shop to get new wheels/tires installed and their wheels lugs never get retorqued after they leave the shop. If your lugs really were that loose I have to image something wasn't right when you installed/torqued the wheel(s). Just my 2 cents.
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06-22-2015, 07:15 PM | #14 |
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Use Ginger Extracts method. That's pretty damn foolproof.
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06-23-2015, 02:06 PM | #17 |
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Always make sure the hub, face of rotor and matching faces on rim are all clean. Any salt/rust buildup will cause the rim to not sit flush, and could allow wheel nuts to loosen.
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06-24-2015, 05:24 AM | #18 |
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I think its fairly normal for the bolts to settle. The wheel is aluminium an the mounting surface is steel, so we can expect some settling as a result of temperature cycling. It helps if you get the surfaces clean and if the bolts are well aligned before final torque is applied. I'm cautious about loading and causing movement of a bolt that is only snug, so personally I don't use the approach of rolling the wheel on the ground.
If you have new wheels that still have paint on the bolt seating surface, then its fairly certain you will need to re-torque the bolts. |
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06-24-2015, 05:43 AM | #19 |
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When ever you change wheels(or remove one) one should always recheck the wheel bolts with a torque wrench. Normally after 100 to 200 kms, you should recheck your wheel bolts.
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