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      02-26-2008, 01:16 AM   #1
mrgoochio
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The Detailing Handbook *free .pdf*

If you are a novice OR experienced with automotive detailing, I still urge you to read through this book. This is a great book including detailed how-tos and product recommendations. It has full color pictures and charts for those that are visual learners. I don't take any credit for this guide as it was written by Michael (MikeyC) Cohen, provided by NESKO (New England S2000 Owners), I just want to share a great link with you all.

You can even print it out and put it together so you can carry a copy if you need to refer to certain steps as you detail.

Here is a link to a free detailing handbook:

http://home.comcast.net/~michael.coh..._Hand_Book.pdf

If there is any problem with linking this type of content, please let me know immediately and I'll take it down.

Daniel!
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      02-26-2008, 03:51 AM   #2
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Isn't all this common knowledge? ;-)

The author seems to like the PC polisher (pretty normal). I prefer the Griots as it has measurably more torque (very important) and a cooling system so the pad never heats up (also very important). It's made by Makita, very very high quality as you would expect, and costs less than the PC. Works better in my opinion too, and its handle makes it easier to hold on to. Other than that a nice read! Ultimately, claying and polishing prior to waxing is a must. And of course the polisher should only be used to lay down polish and wax. Removal of polish and wax is best by hand and using special cloths to not scratch the surface.
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      02-26-2008, 04:00 AM   #3
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Dude you just without question rock. I just DLed that shit. Thanks Mate!!!
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      02-26-2008, 04:06 AM   #4
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Wow. Good to know. Thanks Mate

How do you deal with the stuff that ends up in the cracks?? I did a bad job on my truck and it looks like hell.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Balls View Post
Isn't all this common knowledge? ;-)

The author seems to like the PC polisher (pretty normal). I prefer the Griots as it has measurably more torque (very important) and a cooling system so the pad never heats up (also very important). It's made by Makita, very very high quality as you would expect, and costs less than the PC. Works better in my opinion too, and its handle makes it easier to hold on to. Other than that a nice read! Ultimately, claying and polishing prior to waxing is a must. And of course the polisher should only be used to lay down polish and wax. Removal of polish and wax is best by hand and using special cloths to not scratch the surface.
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      02-26-2008, 08:12 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by #1 View Post
Wow. Good to know. Thanks Mate

How do you deal with the stuff that ends up in the cracks?? I did a bad job on my truck and it looks like hell.
I use Q-tips to clean the cracks, before claying and after the polish step and wax step. If you get any wax on plastic parts, peanut oil takes it off...
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      02-26-2008, 12:28 PM   #6
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Good post. Most of that is common sense but he had a few good ideas in there.
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      02-26-2008, 12:54 PM   #7
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I think this ought to be a sticky - thanks Mr. Goochio!!
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      02-26-2008, 05:16 PM   #8
mrgoochio
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Lots of you say its common knowledge, and for that I'm glad your cars will be well taken care of. Even so, there are plenty of cars that go untreated and neglected of care. Although I have links to other guides, I posted this one because it, in my opinion, was well written and had the most clear examples of technique and application. The product choices are objectable from user to user, but thats also stated within the guide. I'm just glad I could be of some assistance here :headbang:

(p.s. my name isn't actually Mr. Goochio, its just my username ancient inside joke, don't ask..:wink

-Daniel
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      02-26-2008, 05:21 PM   #9
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Ancient inside jokes are good for comtinued use though, otherwise they wouldn't be ancient, Daniel. ; -)
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      02-26-2008, 07:51 PM   #10
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Not bad, quite a lot of s2000s in the pics.
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*Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines.
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      02-26-2008, 10:09 PM   #11
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omg that whole process could take like 12 hours
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      02-27-2008, 01:23 AM   #12
mrgoochio
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You don't need to do every step every time you wash your car! Theres a section for assessing your paint condition :wink:
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      02-27-2008, 03:00 AM   #13
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Thanks for the post. I read it all the way through and it did have some good ideas. Nothing really new or innovative but very practical.
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      02-27-2008, 03:04 AM   #14
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No, not common knowledge

Quote:
Originally Posted by Balls View Post
Isn't all this common knowledge? ;-)

The author seems to like the PC polisher (pretty normal). I prefer the Griots as it has measurably more torque (very important) and a cooling system so the pad never heats up (also very important). It's made by Makita, very very high quality as you would expect, and costs less than the PC. Works better in my opinion too, and its handle makes it easier to hold on to. Other than that a nice read! Ultimately, claying and polishing prior to waxing is a must. And of course the polisher should only be used to lay down polish and wax. Removal of polish and wax is best by hand and using special cloths to not scratch the surface.
My 135 will be the first new car I've ever had, so taking good care of the paint has never been an issue for me before. I'd only recently heard of clay bars, for example.
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      02-27-2008, 04:09 AM   #15
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Thank you man! it has great tips for my new car
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      02-27-2008, 05:19 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sethchan View Post
My 135 will be the first new car I've ever had, so taking good care of the paint has never been an issue for me before. I'd only recently heard of clay bars, for example.
Of all the places (countries) I've lived, this place requires claying weekly in the summer. I don't know what [exactly] comes out of the trees, but your car is littered with a mist of clear sap you can barely see, but feel quite easily. Makes the wipers stick and move with a jerky motion unless you clay the windshield too (which I do). The stuff is hard to remove with a good handwashing. That usually doesn't get it all, so claying afterwards is a must. Again, the Griots is the best clay I've used. I'm sure Swissol (sp?) is good too which is available over here.

Never park under a tree in Germany in the summer! Between that and millions of insects that love to commit suicide on your front end and windshield, Germany is hell on cars!

It's funny, most Germans use auto car washes, so there's not a lot of great car cleaning products to be found on the local markets.
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      04-29-2008, 10:36 PM   #17
mrgoochio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by #1 View Post
Wow. Good to know. Thanks Mate

How do you deal with the stuff that ends up in the cracks?? I did a bad job on my truck and it looks like hell.
Detail brushes, plenty of online detail retailers sell brushes that are paint/clear coat friendly.. along with the assorted brushes for interior and engine compartment work.
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      07-03-2008, 04:50 PM   #18
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Is spraying water on the engine bay safe?
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      10-29-2008, 03:43 PM   #19
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Thanks for the info!
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      01-27-2009, 10:15 AM   #20
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Hey this is GREAT!!! Thanks so much for sharing. Most of the things discussed in this manual are items I have heard before. But, to have them all in one place is very helpful. This will also be a great help to a buddy of mine who just bought a Cayman S, and has no idea how to wash it. I wanna say he already took it to an auto car wash.

Thanks again...
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      02-02-2009, 09:51 PM   #21
mrgoochio
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no problem, just wanted to help spread the word.. its always surprising to see how many people that have owned automobiles for ages that don't know how to properly take care of their vehicles
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      07-26-2010, 01:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVF4Rrider View Post
Isn't all this common knowledge? ;-)
Nope Up until now, my auto "detailing" consisted of a $5 automatic car wash :P

Gotta start somewhere, so this guide is great.
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