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      03-30-2008, 08:16 PM   #1
larryn
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CDV Delete/Replacement DIY

The Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) is something BMW puts in place to limit the flow of hydraulic fluid to the clutch, supposedly to minimize stress to the components. It was introduced around the same time BMW began offering included service that covered clutches.

It does make the clutch take-up/engagement somewhat unpredictable and sluggish at times, making for a sometimes jerky ride.

This DIY takes about 20 minutes, and you'll need somebody to help you bleed the clutch fluid after you're done.

You'll need an 8mm socket, a small flat blade screw driver, a 10mm wrench, and possibly a little bit of hydraulic brake fluid.


Steps


1. Jack up the front of the car and put it on jackstands (or drive up on ramps).

2. Loosen the eight (8) transmission shroud/cover screws with that 8mm socket. The transmission cover is about directly underneath the shifter. The cover comes off once you remove the 8 screws and twist the cover about 45 degrees to clear the slot shown in Pic 1.

3. climb under three and find the CDV. Pic 2

4. The CDV can either be removed or replaced with an aftermarket free flow modified CDV. I chose to remove it. There's a small metal clip on the CDV, and an identical one on the coupling. See the circled items in pic 3. Also, take a took at a closeup of the CDV in pic 4, to see how to pop the retaining wire out with a small flat bladed screwdriver.

5. Once you have the two retaining wires popped out a bit (as in pic 4), quickly pull out the fluid line going into the CDV, and cap it with your finger. Then, pull out the CDV itself. Then take the fluid line that you have capped with your finger, and plug it into the coupling. You'll lose a bit of fluid, but not that much. Push the retaining wire back in to secure the fluid line in the coupling. It will look like pic 5 when you're done. alternately, install your modified CDV instead of bypassing it.

6. Locate the bleed valve, (pic 6) and unloosen it while you have a cup under it to catch the fluid, and have somebody press the clutch pedal once to the floor, and hold it there, while you tighten the bleed valve.

7. Put the shroud/tranny cover back in place with the 8 screws.


..and you're done! Have a congratulatory beer and admire you're 13375k1z.

You'll notice that the clutch pedal will respond more directly to your input now, and YOU can control how it it let out.
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      03-30-2008, 08:17 PM   #2
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Btw, this is how badly the fluid is restricted in our cars...
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      03-30-2008, 08:25 PM   #3
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Very Nice Work!
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      03-30-2008, 08:56 PM   #4
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Awesome. Larry, you are, without any equivocation, DA MAN ! Thank you so very much for the illustrated presentation.
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      03-30-2008, 09:05 PM   #5
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I was with camera in hand when uncoupling the fluid line, and the fluid comes out pretty quickly if you don't plug it with your finger, which I wasn't expecting. :smile: Needless to say, I didn't get that picture.

Btw, a little bit will come out from the clutch side, but just a little. The feed line will drain your reservoir, if you let it though...
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      03-30-2008, 09:44 PM   #6
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Good advice Larry and a great DIY, I have my modified one from Riss in at work now and will be installing it this week. What are your impressions so far?

FYI the hole in the modified one is about 5 times as large as your last pic, I will take a pic and upload it tomorrow.
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      03-30-2008, 10:47 PM   #7
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Couldn't you just drill out the inside of the CDV to make it larger like the aftermarket ones? Cheaper and it couldn't be detected by the dealer unless they took it off and looked in it. Sounds like another alternative.
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      03-30-2008, 11:26 PM   #8
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Is this something that the dealers would notice if you tried to bring it in for service? Probably only for clutch service right? Is there a way that you can replace it pretty easy before you take it in? Also, does the replacement one from Riss look very similar to the stock one?
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      03-31-2008, 01:52 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bharv2003 View Post
Is this something that the dealers would notice if you tried to bring it in for service? Probably only for clutch service right? Is there a way that you can replace it pretty easy before you take it in? Also, does the replacement one from Riss look very similar to the stock one?
That is the reason people buy a modified one. You can plug everything in with out it, but the dealer would notice. If you are having clutch issues on your car I would still reccomend to change it back, because if they look and it is modifed you can still be screwed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizall View Post
Couldn't you just drill out the inside of the CDV to make it larger like the aftermarket ones? Cheaper and it couldn't be detected by the dealer unless they took it off and looked in it. Sounds like another alternative.
Yes you can, but becareful. We tried that on my friends e92 and the plastic melted. The older BMW's had metal ones and were easy to drill. The stock piece is like 6 dollars i think from BMW.

It is #13
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...08&hg=21&fg=10

The part number is 21526764872. I would still reccomend to buy a modified one to save you the trouble.
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      03-31-2008, 06:44 AM   #10
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I may put in an aftermarket modified one, but there is absolutely no reason for the dealer to take that shroud off, unless they were working on the transmission or clutch, which would be repair work. If I need to put it back in there, I'll do that only if I'm trying to get warranty work done to my transmission or clutch, which is highly unlikely in the foreseeable future.
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      03-31-2008, 10:12 AM   #11
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Thanks for the write up for someone who's never done this before! Quick Q - after bleeding, do you have to add any fluid?
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      04-02-2008, 01:33 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dclee1 View Post
Thanks for the write up for someone who's never done this before! Quick Q - after bleeding, do you have to add any fluid?
It depends how much drips out during the install and bleeding process. After you are done check your level and fill depending on that.
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      04-04-2008, 03:25 AM   #13
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The bleed valve only needs to be loosen. Not completely off, right?
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      04-04-2008, 06:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizall View Post
Couldn't you just drill out the inside of the CDV to make it larger like the aftermarket ones? Cheaper and it couldn't be detected by the dealer unless they took it off and looked in it. Sounds like another alternative.
This is what Zeckhausen Racing says about the CDV on why you should not drill them out. However, our is different but for $30 I would buy one from someone that machined it out instead of me with a vise and drill.
"The solution is to replace* the CDV with a modified valve which has had the interior parts carefully removed. We do not drill these valves. Drilling will damage the taper at both ends of the valve. The male tapered end seals against the female taper of the clutch slave cylinder. And the male hydraulic fitting seals against the CDV's tapered seat at the female end. It does not seal via the threads. Drilling a CDV may cause it to leak under pressure and leave bits of valve material behind, potentially migrating into and damaging the clutch hydraulics.
We have developed a technique for removing the interior valve and spring without damaging the delicate tapered seat at the female end and without touching the taper on the male end. Zeckhausen Racing provides a free service to modify CDVs which are mailed to us. Click here for details."
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      04-04-2008, 07:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert View Post
The bleed valve only needs to be loosen. Not completely off, right?
Correct. :smile:
Be careful with the clutch pedal press too, as you'll shoot the hydraulic fluid all over the place. It comes out pretty quickly.
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      04-04-2008, 12:05 PM   #16
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Wow. Thanks for this! I was wondering why my shifts into second were so rough. I though I was just uncoordinated.
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      04-06-2008, 02:32 PM   #17
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Using figure 3 as a reference, which side do you plug not to loose all your fluid in the reservoir, the left or right. I assume the right?
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      04-06-2008, 02:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Using figure 3 as a reference, which side do you plug not to loose all your fluid in the reservoir, the left or right. I assume the right?
In figure 3.. the rubber hose to the right leads to the fluid reservoir, and you need to plug that. A little will come out of the metal line, but not a lot.
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      04-06-2008, 03:09 PM   #19
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Loosen both clamps and pullout the line towards the front of the car first and plug it quickly with your thumb. Now pull out the stock CDV and insert the Modified one quickly, now just take your thumb off the hose your plugging and quickly insert it into the modifed CDV. Push down both clamps and bleed.
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      04-06-2008, 06:58 PM   #20
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I would pay somebody $50 to do it. Any takers in northern IL ?
For labor, I will buy the new part.
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      04-07-2008, 11:49 PM   #21
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wow, plastic CDV's on the new cars. Seems like plastic always eventually replaces steel with everything.



anyways, did this delete to 2 E46's and it makes the clutch feel normal, like the way it is supposed to. Highly recommend this straightforward and almost free mod.

Above is of my tranny mods: CDV deletes, selector rod swaps (OEM pieces pictured) and clutch pedal swap (OEM pictured). I put a GS Performance steel clutch pedal in my E46 which shortened engagement distance by about 1.5 to 1.75"
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      04-08-2008, 07:20 AM   #22
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I would pay somebody $50 to do it. Any takers in northern IL ?
For labor, I will buy the new part.
My friend's shop would do it for you. You will not meet a more honest person in the auto repair industry. He often takes used cars and fixes them for free to give to needy families.

(Milwaukee and Willow/Palatine Rd.) He is not that far North but...

http://www.semeriaimports.com

Ask for Larry (The Owner). Tell him you know me (Chris Kurn)

847.537.5454
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