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      06-11-2008, 01:36 PM   #45
ChrisK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1thirty5 View Post
Not bad at all.....matter of fact it's a great gearbox. The CDV mainly interferes with the speed and smoothness when disengaging the clutch and changing gears between 1st and 2nd.

Well put. :wink:
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      06-13-2008, 09:02 PM   #46
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Here is a question. Is this possible to do without jacking up the car? Anyone try it, or maybe just jacking up one side? I don't have stands, and to be honest, I'm wary of using them for safety reasons.
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      06-28-2008, 11:36 AM   #47
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I have gutted my cdv valve and it is back in place. In the process lost the fluid so where is the fluid reservoir? Clutch is back working after letting it sit with the pedal held down for 6 hours. Took car for quick spin and it sure makes a difference.
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      07-31-2008, 01:07 PM   #48
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anyone tell me a place online that I can order a stocker online? Most people dont have the part number... My local dealer is a buncha douches, and are being arschlocks about ordering etc (told me they wanted vin)

Anyway..
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      07-31-2008, 01:26 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnyek View Post
anyone tell me a place online that I can order a stocker online? Most people dont have the part number... My local dealer is a buncha douches, and are being arschlocks about ordering etc (told me they wanted vin)

Anyway..

Dan at United BMW. He is great to work with and is a vendor here. (look in the commercial sales forum)
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      07-31-2008, 01:28 PM   #50
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Go to the commercial forum, and choose a vendor from a BMW center. There's a handful of dealers represented.
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      08-03-2008, 04:15 PM   #51
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WooHoo, this car is so fast this is crazy.
360mls and counting

Clutch was annoying after 05 SI HB, that stick and clutch was unbelievable
so i replaced the CDV and it feels much better now but it lost some oil, not much but still need to check it.
Where is the dam oil tank?:iono:
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      08-03-2008, 04:29 PM   #52
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Open the hood and look in.. It's on the right hand side by the right hood hinge, under a black cover by the windshield. That cover is held on by two rubber fasteners.
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      08-03-2008, 04:51 PM   #53
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Thx for the help

It feels so much better now, cant believe they would cripple the car like that.
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      08-05-2008, 05:53 PM   #54
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Larryn - thanks for the detailed instructions.

For those of you seeking a gutted CDV to put in its place, I'd echo the sentiments of some others expressed here - forget it, just leave it out.

Keep the original CDV in case you don't like the added feel, or in case you want to sell the car to someone who doesn't.
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      08-10-2008, 06:24 PM   #55
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Hoping for a quick response on this... I am going to be clamping the soft line to eliminate as much fluid from leaking out... and I understand it'll likely result in not needing to add fluid, but I do have a couple questions...

1) Does brakes and clutch use the same brake resivoir?
2) Bleeding exactly like the brakes? Eg, somone pushing in the clutch, gently loosen the bleed screw until fluid comes out a bit, then tighten it off?

3) any other advice for me? Do Ramps in the front get me close enough to the cdv valve?
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      08-10-2008, 06:35 PM   #56
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1) yes
2) yes
3a) no
3b) yes

:smile:

I just stole this from a DIY on e90post:

Quote:
I suggest to make your life a bit easier to get a clear jar can be plastic but so you can see inside of it, put a little brake fluid into the bottom of the jar, poke a hole in the lid and place a small piece of rubber tubing that is large enough to slide over the clutch slave valve, all the way down to the bottom of the jar and emerse it in the brake fluid, the reason is that with a little fluid in there you will be able to see bubbles when air is being released from the system, once you can quick turn open/close the valve and you don't see air bubbles you will be air bubble free and done.

You need the help of a friend here for the bleeding process.

One person gets in the car, other is underneath the car with a 11mm wrench that will be used to loosen up the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder ( be VERY CAREFUL as it is made of plastic). One of you pump the clutch 4 times (if there is excessive air in the system you may have to return the clutch pedal by hand) on the 4th pump hold the clutch pedal on the floor while the other person releases the 11mm bleeder valve and shuts it, try to do this in a quick turning action. Now repeat the same process over and over untill you feel the clutch come back to life. You will need to do this a few times always making sure to add fluid to the reservour. You will feel the pedal start to get firm and nice. Once the person under the car no longer sees bubbles you're done!!

BIG BTW:, the clutch and the brake share the same reservor, BUT they have different chambers so even if the brake fluid looks high or normal, it does not nessesarily mean that you have fluid in the clutch side, make sure to add fluid!! and use good stuff!!
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      08-10-2008, 08:56 PM   #57
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Ok, I just did it... getting to the bleeder set screw is a royal pita... now if I didnt bleed it well enough would would the symptoms be? Problems engaging the clutch, eg it'd always want to be in gear, and also, real light clutch pedal? I think all is well it drives ok, but dont want to neglect her..

One thing I can say off the get go... the cdv valve is by far the easiest part of the swap (took me literally like 5min)...bleeding is the worst...
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      08-10-2008, 08:58 PM   #58
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If the pedal feels firm, you're done! You should notice that that driving smoothly between shifts is easier. :smile:
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      08-10-2008, 09:08 PM   #59
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I just posted this in another thread, but....it's good to know.

If you have bleeding problems, the clutch draws from a segregated section of the brake fluid reservoir. You may think you have clutch fluid.


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      08-10-2008, 09:10 PM   #60
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how do you get it into the clutch side vs the brake side... and if I add more do I need to re-bleed? (no right, because the air bubbles that would have been down there due to my temp cdv outage was bled out there right?)
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      08-10-2008, 09:19 PM   #61
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You have to fill it, then definitely re-bleed. Keep an eye on the amount of fluid in the reservoir, and make sure you keep the level up while replacing the air in your lines with fluid.

You'll get pedal feel back, but keep pumping until you stop seeing bubbles in your container that the hose from the bleeder valve goes in to.
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      08-10-2008, 10:22 PM   #62
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I dont have tubing/jar etc... I actually got a bit of fluid out the bleed, while clutch still depressed I tighteed it back up then added a bit of fluid... Car drives fine, though I dont exactly remember how firm the clutch was before =( I am going to get a bleeder or somethign tomrorow, whats the approximate diameter of the hose? 1/4 inner diaemter?
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      08-10-2008, 11:16 PM   #63
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I've got a question. If you haven't bleed it completely, will the lines eventually rid of all the air bubbles? i.e. keep driving for X miles and so on.
I don't remember how firm the clutch feel before as well :P
Thx
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      08-10-2008, 11:26 PM   #64
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Tomorrow I am def going to try bleeding again I think I lost maybe a teaspoon of brake fluid IF that. I bought some tubing today, but I think inner diameter might be too small to fit on the bleeder... my prob is opening and closing the bleed valve.
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      08-11-2008, 04:16 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akak1997 View Post
I've got a question. If you haven't bleed it completely, will the lines eventually rid of all the air bubbles? i.e. keep driving for X miles and so on.
I don't remember how firm the clutch feel before as well :P
Thx
Definitely not. In fact air slowly leaks into the lines over time. Any air in the lines will slowly get worse as it will speed up the process of the brake fluid absorbing moisture. Take the time to do a proper bleed for the sake of your clutch and driving experience.
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      09-02-2008, 09:07 AM   #66
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Larry, thanks for the DIY. Followed your how-to this weekend and it was a breeze. :thumbup:
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