BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      09-19-2008, 08:49 PM   #67
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Will be getting my 135i soon and this sounds like something I'd wanna do pretty soon. I have an 03 330xi manual atm (not sure if this has a CDV).

Anyway, I'm not a mechanic or anything but I'm usually pretty good when it comes to installing/tinkering around with things. Would you say I could do this by myself with a buddy at my own house or is it best to bring it into some shop?
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      09-19-2008, 09:14 PM   #68
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If you tinker, you can easily do this!
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      09-30-2008, 11:19 PM   #69
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I still just dont really get this mod. Reason being I've never had a problem with my 1-2 shift. Ever. But it seems like everyone else does.

I read in another post that this will make the clutch wear out faster, but in turn makes it easier on the differential. As BMW would rather have to replace a clutch than a differential under warranty.

I might still do it, but I keep thinking why bother if I have no problem shifting?
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      10-02-2008, 05:24 PM   #70
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I have no problem with the shift on the street. But when you are shifting very fast like at the track its definitly hard to get it into second.
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      11-19-2008, 06:03 AM   #71
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Will the modified CDV will make clutch wear out faster? or the stock one make clutch wear out faster??
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      11-19-2008, 09:39 AM   #72
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The modified CDV will make the clutch wear slower. And will be more harsh on the rear end. (The whole point of CDV).

The stock CDV is harder on the clutch and causes more slippage, but eases the shock to the rear end and drivetrain making it last longer.
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      11-19-2008, 12:05 PM   #73
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^^^ this wouldnt harm the rear end at ALL IMO...the hole that is ported is larger but its still there and is still restrictive..now if u do what some do and leave out the valve that might cause an issue...i dont really think this MOD alone will hurt anything at all....now with power adding mods that create more torque sure it can wear out the stock components faster...im waiting till my 1500 breakin oil change to install this CDV and im hoping it will help mainly with the 1st to 2nd shift
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      11-19-2008, 04:21 PM   #74
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as observant as I am (I can usually tell any little teeny tiny difference in drivability, sound etc)... I honestly didnt notice much if any diff at all after installing cdv... Its not going to hurt, but nowhere near shifting/drivability of the sti even after
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      11-30-2008, 04:58 PM   #75
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Hi there
Does anyone know where I can buy a modified CDV in Europe?
Thanks a lot for your help
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      11-30-2008, 05:50 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddayz View Post
Hi there
Does anyone know where I can buy a modified CDV in Europe?
Thanks a lot for your help
I bought mine directly from Riss Racing. It arrived after a few days and shipping was cheap.
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      03-05-2009, 09:22 AM   #77
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Does the modded CDV cause the clutch to feel stiffer/firmer? I LOVE the current clutch weight, and although the 1-2 shift is notchy, it is still nowhere as bad as the 350Z/G35 I've owned. I'd definitely invest in a short shifter kit down the road because I feel the throws are a bit on the long side though. If the clutch feel is different with the CDV, I'll probably pass on this one.
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      03-05-2009, 11:39 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themyst View Post
Does the modded CDV cause the clutch to feel stiffer/firmer? I LOVE the current clutch weight, and although the 1-2 shift is notchy, it is still nowhere as bad as the 350Z/G35 I've owned. I'd definitely invest in a short shifter kit down the road because I feel the throws are a bit on the long side though. If the clutch feel is different with the CDV, I'll probably pass on this one.
The weight will be unaffected. The "feel" will change due to a less vague engagement point, but it's a change for the better.
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      03-06-2009, 05:26 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddayz View Post
Hi there
Does anyone know where I can buy a modified CDV in Europe?
Thanks a lot for your help
Just take the stock CDV off, put a screw driver down the small end and hit it with a hammer. It will knock the restrictor out. Viola, you have what people pay $20 for.
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      05-17-2009, 12:50 PM   #80
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For the people that did this with the C-clamp method, how does your clutch height feel now? I'm going to do mine this way, but I'm just concerned on how the pedal might drop. Will pumping the clutch and brake really help?
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      05-17-2009, 06:07 PM   #81
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I used a pair of vice grips with a rag in between them to clamp the hose shut. worked fine and the pedal pumping does work.
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      05-18-2009, 01:56 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 200Duece View Post
I used a pair of vice grips with a rag in between them to clamp the hose shut. worked fine and the pedal pumping does work.
Did you open the bleeder valve while you were pumping the pedal?
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      05-18-2009, 04:04 PM   #83
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I was going to do it the C-clamp way, but I read that all that I have to do after is pump the clutch and brake until it feels normal again.
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      05-22-2009, 07:09 AM   #84
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I just put off the CDV today (but no drive because I'm doing many others modifications on my car: Bilstein, exhaust, differential Quaife, etc.).

Very easy to do.

I have this key, good for purge the clutch:






My "small" lifting equipment:


















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      06-01-2009, 03:46 PM   #85
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Excellent photos of the lifting points, thanks!
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      06-01-2009, 05:59 PM   #86
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^ +1 Great photo! Thanks
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      07-04-2009, 12:44 AM   #87
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I am pretty annoyed by the jerky 1-2 gear shifting.... not sure if it is related to my skill or the CDV. So I have done the following experiment:

1. Shifting from 1 to 2 at higher Rev (e.g. 3,000-3,500rpm in my case, instead of 2,000-2,500 in my old Silvia S15) could reduce the jerky action.

2. Jerky action when shifting from 1 to 2 at 2,000-2,500rpm could also be reduced IF you shift really really fast from 1 position to 2 position....

My theory:
If you target to shift at 3,000rpm for example, when you lift the clutch pedel, CDV delays the engagement of the clutch, more time to let rev drop; rev not matched, jerky action resulted...

So "shiting at higher rev", or "quicker shifting action" help reduce the rev mis-match and jerky behavior.

But I am tired of learning shifting all over again ~>.<~
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      07-04-2009, 05:18 AM   #88
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I did the clamp method. Clutch pedal felt spongy at first but it went away after a drive around the block. I did not bleed the clutch.
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