BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      07-12-2009, 12:58 AM   #89
Bobby c
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I changed mine out today. The new CDV works perfect, the way the car should have been from the factory. Thanks for the thread it helped alot. It only took me about an hour to do the swap, 45 min of that was trying to figure out how to properly jack up the car. If there is anyone still on the fence about this one I say do it!
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      07-12-2009, 11:51 PM   #90
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Is the process for this mod the same on the 128? Anyone done it?
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      07-18-2009, 06:33 AM   #91
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Thanks Larry, great walk through! Did this Thursday without any dramas thanks to you. 1-2 shift is much smoother now.
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      07-20-2009, 10:29 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supraking View Post
Is the process for this mod the same on the 128? Anyone done it?
This is exactly what I was wondering. Any ideas for 128 owners ?
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      07-29-2009, 01:10 PM   #93
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Does anyone know if I can use my Pressure Bleeder to bleed the clutch at the same time that I'm bleeding the brake lines?
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      08-04-2009, 08:55 PM   #94
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I just did this after my first 800 miles on my car tonight... all I have to say is: This is, Without a doubt, The *BEST* modification that you SHOULD do to your manual BMW. And one of the best parts is, It's absolutely free.... or $8...

I must say, you ought to get a wrench like Oliver_TFE's. I had a shit of a time using a standard 11 MM wrench. (the write-up says 10mm, but that didn't fit my bleeder valve, I had to use 11MM) It's a tight fit up there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Olivier_TFE View Post
I decided to go to a dealership and buy a new CDV, and modify it at home. I started to drill it out, but there is a metal piece in there that really prevents you from doing this feasibly. What did work, was using a hex head (that was mentioned previously) that fits well into the long and slender hole, and with the larger end of the CDV on a stiff table, smack the hex wrench with a hammer. Don't hit it too hard, the thing will pop right out. If you break it, no big deal, it's only $8. Whatever you do, make sure it is CLEAN. Use rubbing alcohol and Q-tips to make sure there are no plastic or metal bits still in there. A q-tip should go all the way through if you did it right.
I don't feel that you should clamp hydraulic hoses. They are made NOT to compress or expand, and I have a feeling this weakens them. As mentioned before, use your thumb to plug the hose coming from the fluid reservoir. That worked fine for me. Just make sure the transmission is not hot to the touch and you won't get burned. (The brake fluid doesn't get that hot but that transmission sure does)

I like my 4 year warranty, and I intend to keep it. I'm actually EASIER on my drive line without that infernal CDV. Before, I was jerky and I had no idea when the clutch was actually going to engage. Now I actually can feel the clutch engaging in a predictable way and know when to let it out slower, so it engages the way I want it to. I can finally shift faster than my 82 year old grandmother would and still remain as smooth as an automatic.

larryn, your pics were indispensable. Thank you.
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      02-10-2010, 05:17 AM   #95
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Can i perform this operation on my 120D ?

Thank's
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      02-10-2010, 09:41 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas2203 View Post
Can i perform this operation on my 120D ?

Thank's
You have to see if your 120d have a CDV. If "yes", yes, you can remove it.
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      03-08-2010, 07:58 PM   #97
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Hi Gang,

I will do thing CDV mod when I change my oil next week. I just wanted to post some pics showing how easy it is to modify the standard valve. I just ordered an axtra CDV from my local bmw dealer. Cost me eight euros.

standard CDV


2mm inner dia rstrictor


I used a 4mm punch to remove the restrictor. One firm luv tap!


tools needed to remove the restrictor


and some German brake fluid DOT4.


I will probably pickup an 11mm cresent moon wrench just to be on the safe side. I have all the flare tools for working on brake fittings. I will also use my Motive pressure bleeder to bleed the clutch slave line.

I also plan on using a hose pitch/crimp to prevent the brake resivoir from bleeding out.

Let you all know how it goes in a week or two. Its too cold out to be crawling under my car right now! bye
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      03-09-2010, 06:53 AM   #98
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You will love it.
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      03-12-2010, 02:49 PM   #99
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I don't want to buy 2 half moon wrenches when only one is the correct one for the bleeder valve - so is it 10mm as in the OP DIY or is it 11mm as posted afterwards?
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      03-12-2010, 03:09 PM   #100
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Hi David,

Thanks a lot for the pics; you definitely document things well and it certainly makes it easier for those of us who will do it soon. My is in the mail right now and I was wondering what I would find when I took a look at it.

RE: the 11 mm crescent moon wrench: I took a look at Sears the other day when I was there, but didn't see anything. Let us know if you find a good source for these. Thanks again for the pics,

ianc
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      03-13-2010, 06:35 AM   #101
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Hi Guys,

Here are my 11mm tools that I plan to tackle the CDV job! I am 99% sure the bleed nipple is a 11mm. Every BMW in the past used this size. Sometimes they use a smaller 7mm on the brake calipers for the rear axle. Most of my tools are Hazet since they are high quality and not too expensive over here. I paid 23 euros for these three tools. The bottom long 11mm wrench is a Gedore - an Hazet sub-line I think. Made in the same zip code! Any excuse for me to buy new tools is good!

11mm wrenches


Hose clamp - to prevent brake resivor from draining out!


And every tool box should have wrenches like this:

when working on brake lines - a flare wrench like this will not strip or round the corners of the brake line nuts. or... when ever possible use a 12point box(ring) wrench.

Next week when I change my oil, I will replace the CDV too. I'll see which wrench fits!
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      03-13-2010, 04:11 PM   #102
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LTBMW removed stock and installed modified cdv in like 10 minutes. He said only 2 drops of fluid were lost so didn't need to bleed the system. Car drives great and pedal feels fine.
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      03-13-2010, 06:21 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theanhdy View Post
LTBMW removed stock and installed modified cdv in like 10 minutes. He said only 2 drops of fluid were lost so didn't need to bleed the system. Car drives great and pedal feels fine.
ANY TIME you open the clutch hydraulic system or hydraulic brake lines, you HAVE to bleed the system. PERIOD!

...now maybe since the clutch slave line will be dripping down with brake fluid, when LTBMW put the new valve on, there wasn't a lot of air entering the system. Or maybe the few air bubbles worked their way back up to the brake resivior!?

BUT no matter what... there was SOME air getting in there. No way around that. So it just might be with some miles, he will need to bleed his clutch slave. My bet is sooner rather than later!

Good Luck,
David
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      03-14-2010, 03:03 AM   #104
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Hi David,

Thanks for the pics of your sumptuous tools. Unfortunately I'm finding that it's quite difficult to locate Hazet tools here in the US. If you wouldn't mind, could you post the part #'s (if they are visible\available) of the crescent moon 11/13 mm in your first pic, and the oil filter wrench you found to fit the filter cap on th N54? I have found one or two sites here that stock Hazet tools, but their search is mostly broken, so a part # would simplify matters considerably... Thanks for any info!

ianc
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      03-14-2010, 05:56 AM   #105
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Hi Guys,

The Hazet cresent wrench tool # 615-11x13 - price 13 euros (in DE)
The N54 oil cap tool is #2169-8 - price 19 euros (in DE)

There is a guy in Florida that imports Hazxet tools:

http://www.samstagsales.com/hazet.htm

I have nothing to do with him. Years ago I use to buy German tools direct from where VAG, thru Zelenda Tools in New York. They are one of the largest metric tool companies in the states. They also import ALOT of metric fasteners. I use to buy USED tools from them dirt cheap. But that was back when I knew them bc I was working for a VW dealer. They are still in biz, I just do not know IF they sell to the public. Here is there website, they also sell Hazet tools

http://www.zelenda.com/

Good Luck,
David
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      03-14-2010, 06:25 PM   #106
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re: CDV delete

Quote:
Originally Posted by supraking View Post
Is the process for this mod the same on the 128? Anyone done it?
The CDV delete procedure, should be the same for any BMW. Be it 128i, 120d or 3-er, 5-er, what-ever Bmw model... it all is the same procedure.
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      03-14-2010, 06:30 PM   #107
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re: cdv delete

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffan View Post
Does anyone know if I can use my Pressure Bleeder to bleed the clutch at the same time that I'm bleeding the brake lines?
Yes, sure! Why not. Just make sure when you bleed your brakes to do them in the proper order. RR, LR, RF, LF. It is the order of the longest brake lines first - to remove any boiled b-fluid. use DOT4 fluid.

good luck,
David
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      03-29-2010, 07:38 PM   #108
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Hi Guys,

So today I changed my oil and thought it would be a good time to also do the "delete CDV". I bought an extra CDV (part # 21526764872, see above pics!) and just punched out the restrictor inside of the valve.

So my question IS.... How does the small end of the CDV release from the hydraulic line going TO the clutch slave. The must be some sort of clip - like the one ON the CDV itself. But fpr the life of me I can not see how the CDV releases from the line. The metal bracket just has a rubber grommet. And then its just this POS plastic bushing. I do not see a metal tab or clip? I looked like IF I mess with it too much that plastic fitting will break! HELP!

thanks for your advice.

David

PS: The bleed nipple IS an 11mm. I used an offset box ring wrench, that seems to fit best up in there. I did not open the bleed. I was merely "testing" which one of my German wrenches fit up in that crammed space! The one I would suggest people buy is in the middle of the three wrenches in my photos. Kind of an S-shapped, when flipped sideways.
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      03-29-2010, 08:44 PM   #109
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There is a clip on it, but likely facing up, like mine was. Take a tiny jewelers screwdriver to the topside... or get the clip sticking a little proud of the plastic by taking the same small screwdriver and pushing on one end of the clip.. there's a channel on the black plastic piece that the clip slides in.

Be careful not to pop the clip out and lose it though.
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      03-29-2010, 09:35 PM   #110
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yes clip is there, it is hard to disengage. I think I used a small pin (similar to tiny jewelers screwdriver as larryn discribed) to push it down from one side until I can get a screwdriver under the hook.
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