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      03-29-2010, 09:46 PM   #111
Dackelone
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I will give a try again tomorrow. I'll use my small dental mirror to see where that dam pin is! It must be on top of the line. Out of sight. I can only see the groves/slot for the pin. No pin though.

I am also thinking of unbolting the L-bracket from one of the clutch slave bolts. That way the whole line w/CDV can dop down and I can better see whats going on.

I have some small jewelers screw drivers. I hope they will do the trick. Thanks for al the help.

bye,
David
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      03-30-2010, 12:14 AM   #112
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My clutch friction point seems to be higher up than when it was stock. I have to let the clutch pedal out almost completely for it to grab. Is this normal?
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      03-30-2010, 01:27 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theanhdy View Post
My clutch friction point seems to be higher up than when it was stock. I have to let the clutch pedal out almost completely for it to grab. Is this normal?
No. My friction point did'nt change when I removed the CDV.
See air...
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      03-30-2010, 10:58 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I will give a try again tomorrow. I'll use my small dental mirror to see where that dam pin is! It must be on top of the line. Out of sight. I can only see the groves/slot for the pin. No pin though.

I am also thinking of unbolting the L-bracket from one of the clutch slave bolts. That way the whole line w/CDV can dop down and I can better see whats going on.

I have some small jewelers screw drivers. I hope they will do the trick. Thanks for al the help.

bye,
David
David:

I think you are just overlooking something. If you go back to the OP first post and view the pictures from the DIY install you can see the retainer clip on the CDV itself. You can also see a groove on the CDV body toward the right side narrower end. The bracket that hold this part of the CDV valve has an almost identical retainer clip built into it that, when slid into position fits right into that groove.

It is really quite simple and straightforward so I believe you must just not yet have found that clip in the bracket. Check again before going to all the trouble of dismounting the lines etc.
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      03-30-2010, 04:40 PM   #115
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Hi rsjean,

I did not have time today to mess around with my car. Tomorrow morning I plan to finish the job.

So... if we look at the OP photos... in the third photo, with the two areas circled in red.... I am having trouble with the left side of the valve - finding the metal clip. Two people have told me on most cars it points downwards... but on mine its facing upwards(I guess!).

So... the "clip" should be to the LEFT of the metal L-bracket? Correct>? I will try turning the line and see IF I can see the clip. I have a small dental mirror that might come in handy.

I'll let every know how it goes for me. I know this ain't rocket science... but dam these plastic parts make me nervous to not use too much force.

bye,
David
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      03-30-2010, 06:08 PM   #116
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i would suggest not unbolting that bracket to make it more accessible due to the added stress you will put on the hard lines...
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      03-31-2010, 02:01 AM   #117
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Not to bash on other nice DIY writers, but I've hardly ever seen a DIY writeup as clear and clarifying as this one! But Larry you mightve been lucky cuz this is a relatively simple DIY, lol, Just joking.

Anyway, the only thing that I am not sure is whether should we put those leaked fluid(as you instructed, reserve them in a cup) back into the car? Or it does not matter since too little fluid leaked out of the system?

Thanks Larry
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      03-31-2010, 02:22 AM   #118
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And BTW, do I have to bleed even if just a tiny a bit of fluid came out?

Edit: I've got these few other questions I really want to understand before I start modding cuz I don't want to leave my car dead on the lot

1. The fluid will flow out of the clutch fliud line (the soft one), how about the other side (the metal one)? Will it also flow out from the metal side and that's why we have to fluid? OR, is it because the air will get into from the metal side, so that we have to bleed?
2. What's the principle of bleeding? Which one side (among soft side and the metal side) will the air gets into so that we have to bleed it?
3. Similar to the question about the bleeding principle question, by following your (Larryn's) instruction the air will be pumped out through the bleeding valve if I understood it right? So what about when using a bleeding kit? Which side should we connect the bleeding kit to, the metal side or the soft line side?

TIA for sure!

2nd EDIT(,hah, I just did some further search): If I just clamp the soft clutch line and make sure only .001mL of the fluid flow out, do I still have to bleed? Thanks again!
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      03-31-2010, 07:54 PM   #119
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Anyone please?
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      03-31-2010, 08:18 PM   #120
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Bleeding never hurts. For technique, google it.
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      03-31-2010, 11:10 PM   #121
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Yes, you must bleed it. Anytime you have a hydraulic system open, you must bleed it. There is a reservoir on one end of the system in the engine compt where fluid is added, and a bleed valve on the other. Your friend pumps up the pressure in the system thereby separating the air from the fluid, and it rises to the highest point in the system, which, coincidentally, happens to be where the bleed screw is. Give it a quick open\shut 'til only fluid comes out (easiest to see if you have a transparent hose attached to the bleed screw) and you're done. Search or Google for more. HTH,

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      04-01-2010, 02:43 AM   #122
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Thank you guys for your replies! I'm ready now, just waiting the car to be lifted, or maybe find some free ditch that my car can ride over and go under the car...
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      04-01-2010, 06:39 PM   #123
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Hi Guys,

Well... the 2nd try was the charm! I think my first attemp I was just worn out after mounting my winter tires and doing an oil change and taking all those photos for the DIY section.

Today I got my CDV delete done! It really wasn't all that hard. Just teadious I would say. You really need a god set of THIN jewelers screw drivers(flat blade) to slide the clips off of the CDV.

Also... even using my nice yellow hose clamps, I still got a decent amount of brake fluid dripping down on me! Have your thumb ready to cap that fountain off!

I think anyone attemping this DIY should really have/use a pressure bleeder like the Motive unit. I have the european cap on my Motive and it fits the BMW's res cap just fine. No leaks. Use new DOT 4 brake fluid. You will end up loosing about 10oz of fluid - atleast thats is what I went thru. Most of that is from bleeding the clutch slave.

I would not want to do this DIY with out a pressure bleeder! That is for sure. It seems like any job where i have to lay on my back - just makes life miseable. Its like Exh work... nothing really hard... just gets on my nerves! lol

As for the slave bleen screw... it is 11mm. Not 10mm like in the OP. I used mostly my offset box ring wrenches(the middle photo of the three wrenches) and also that special half moon wrench. I think its always best to have a few 11mm wrenches in one's tool box for such jobs. I think IF I were to do this job again, I would buy an extra wrench and then heat it up with a torch to MAKE myself a special wrench JUST for this job. Its a pain trying to turn that bleed nipple 1/8 of turn at a time!

Here are just three pics. I thought they might shed more light on this DIY.

Here is the brake res - the slave feed in on the right read(towards teh driver's side) of teh resivior.


here is a shot with my wrench on the bleed nipple and my yellow hose crimps locked onto the feed line. But it was still a gusher!




Btw... I used some clear 6mm I.D. hose - for my bleed line. I went to a fish aquarium shop to buy one meter of hose. Makes it easy to see the air bubbles when your bleeding the clutch. Hope this helps future DIY's!

I forgot to say HOW NICE it is to shift now! Esp going from 1st to 2nd gear. There is 80% less notchyness. Its smoother now and less jerky. Before it felt like you never were really depressing the clutch fully. Like only 70% down. Now... it fells like a clutch pedal SHOULD feel. The engagement point is the same. The wieght and feel is the same too. Its just now the clutch FULL releases durring shifts. I think this will put less wear and tear on the gears.

I guess the best way I can explain what I am feeling is... you know when your right hand shifts the shifter one or two nano-seconds before your left foot, presses down on teh clutch. Know how the shifter kind of moves into the next gear, but really doesn't want(like) too. Well... that is how the clutch felt before the CDV delete. Now... the car shifts and feels like the BMW Gods meant it to feel and shift!

bye,
David

Last edited by Dackelone; 04-01-2010 at 07:00 PM.
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      04-01-2010, 09:20 PM   #124
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Good work David!

I will be doing this myself in a couple weeks. What I really wanted to ask you was how it felt afterward, but it looks like you took it out for a spin and let us know. Glad you're pleased and thanks for the update!

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      04-02-2010, 04:59 AM   #125
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One thing I should say is....

After I bled the clutch and put everything back together... when I went to press the clutch pedal the pedal went to the floor. You will have to "pump" the clutch quite a few times before it comes back to life.

I knew from bleeding the clutch line that there was no air in the system. bc there were no more air bubbles coming out of the clear tubbing from the bleed nipple. So don't be scared when the pedal goes to the floor.

I also can't stress enough that you should use some sort of pressure bleeder! Using the old fashioned way of pumping the pedal is just too dangerous I feel.

afterwards, now that its all done... the pedal feels the same. The clutch engages at the same point. Its just now... the shifter can move more freely(quicker) and the car does not jerk as much. Its not all gone... but I would say the car shifts 80% better now, post CDV delete.

take care,
David
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      04-03-2010, 12:04 AM   #126
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cant wait to find some free road side ditch to let my car ride over. just came back from walmart and got creeper, stands, and hydaulic jacks.... holycow, another 90 bucks gone, i've been needing more money since i got this car, and now it's even worse, haha.
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      04-04-2010, 05:23 PM   #127
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Hi Gang,

Here are just a few more pics to show you all whats needed in this DIY CDV delete.

My Motive pressure bleeder (I have used this thing alot!) is very easy to use.


Pressure bleeder hooked up to brake resivior.


Be sure NOT to exceed 10 psi when using a pressure blleder. On older cars you can actually blow off the resivior from where it "plugs into" the master cylinder! Ask me how I know this!! :P


These are some tools you simple must have to do this job! You will need some thin shank jewelers screw drivers. The mini one had a shaft shank of only 1.5mm. You need something thin to puch the clips up and out enough to use a regular small flat blade to work the clip the rest of the way out. You will need an 11mm 12point box wrench too. IF you can find a half moon one, that will help too.


The CDV we are trying to get rid of! Also note as the OP said, you can just unplug the CDV and plug in the black hose into the left side coupler. You really do not need to buy a new CDV plastic housing. But... I like my car to "look" stock to the dealer's eyes.


The CDV up close...


Ok, thats it! This mod isn't hard... its just tedious bc your working on your back and all.

Good Luck,
David
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      04-04-2010, 06:36 PM   #128
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Thanks again for the pics David. Based on your recommendations, I stopped at Sears this weekend and bought the offset 11/12 for around 11$ US. I had a much harder time locating the half moon wrench. I actually found a set on ebay, but the guy screwed up and sent me an SAE set instead of metric. I let him know, and he credited me back for the set. I asked him if he had one loose 11/12 and he found one, but the clowns at the Post Office LOST it in Boise Idaho!

Will be doing this, Koni Yellows, the Eibach Prokit, the M3 tensioning rods and wishbones and E93 sway over the week of 19-23 Apr. Will have to take a week off from work so I don't stick my fiancee with our 2 year old daughter. This way I can go in to my friend's shop and do the work on a lift during the day, but won't miss any family time at nite.

Have got a lot of boxes sitting in my garage right now. Maybe that's TMI, but I can't wait...

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      07-24-2010, 08:22 PM   #129
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I've had a Riss Racing CDV sitting around since last year and finally put it on today, cost me two hours (including beer and running inside to check this thread) and a t-shirt worth of clutch fluid but it works now and feels great

Tip: buy the special wrench
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      08-03-2010, 11:35 PM   #130
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Hey guys...is there anyone in MD willing to help me out with this? I just not comfortable jacking up my car to do this...
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      09-14-2010, 10:28 PM   #131
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When using the pressure bleeder to bleed the clutch, do I still need someone to hold down the clutch pedal? Is the pushing of the clutch pedal only intended to push the fluid out of the valve (thus is not necessary if used with a pressure bleeder)? Or is there some other reason for pushing the clutch pedal down?

I am looking to do this myself tomorrow, otherwise will have to wait for the weekend so I can have some help.
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      09-15-2010, 07:00 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tochenzo View Post
When using the pressure bleeder to bleed the clutch, do I still need someone to hold down the clutch pedal? Is the pushing of the clutch pedal only intended to push the fluid out of the valve (thus is not necessary if used with a pressure bleeder)? Or is there some other reason for pushing the clutch pedal down?

I am looking to do this myself tomorrow, otherwise will have to wait for the weekend so I can have some help.
The short answer is no. You will not need someone to help you.

After I used my presure bleeder and got all the air bubbles out. When I went to push the clutch pedal it went right to the floor. It took like fifty or so pumps before it felt kind of firm. Maybe even a hundred pump cycles.

I was a little paranoid - so a few days later I re-bled my clutch pedal. Felt the same. It will take some pedal pumps before the pedal feels firm though.


One added benifit using a pressure bleeder is you will not run the brake res dry (out of fluid) - and introduce air into the clutch system. This is the biggest mistake ppl make when NOT using a pressure bleeder.

Make sure you have a few good high quality 11mm wrenches to work that bleed nipple. It is at a strange angle to get at. You can only turn it a 1/4 turn at a time too - bc of access issues.
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