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      09-15-2010, 02:51 PM   #133
Tochenzo
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Just got this done and the clutch feels great! The actual replacing of the CDV took about 10 minutes...the bleeding was a pain and the nipple broke off when I was tightening it. So for all of you looking to do this, BE CAREFUL because the stupid thing is plastic. The bolt was fine and everything is tight and good to go, but the head of the nipple broke off. Does anyone know if this is replaceable or do I need to glue the nipple back on?
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      09-16-2010, 06:44 AM   #134
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Quick question for anyone who's done this:

Do you think there's room to use this tool to hold the slave cylinder piston in while you bleed it? The cylinder gets removed from the transmission for this procedure, but the tool looks kind of bulky and space is limited.

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=cbt+tool

The BMW tool is more compact, but is many times the price.
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      09-16-2010, 07:37 AM   #135
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I guess you could. But why? No one has had much trouble using a pressure bleeder.

It would be even harder to get access to that upper bolt to remove the slave cylinder! It is hard enough just openeing and closing that bleed nipple - 1/4 turn at a time!

IMO the above tool is not needed.
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      09-16-2010, 10:06 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
The short answer is no. You will not need someone to help you.

After I used my presure bleeder and got all the air bubbles out. When I went to push the clutch pedal it went right to the floor. It took like fifty or so pumps before it felt kind of firm. Maybe even a hundred pump cycles.
Out of curiosity, why didn't you use a pressure bleeder instead of a vacuum bleeder?
Do you prefer the push method to the pull method?

I prefer the pull method, as it pulls only in the area I need, whereas the push method could put undue pressure in other areas, as it pressurizes the whole system from the reservoir, which is not intended to be pressurized.
But, in the end it's 6 of one and 1/2 dozen of the other, meaning not much difference.

How much room is there around the clutch nipple?
I've used "speed bleeder" in my cars and bikes in the past and I LOVE them, better than any push, pull, or pump--turn method.
Speed bleeders replace the stock bleeder. Internally, they have a spring and ball bearing. All you do is attach the clear bleeder hose, crack the nipple just a touch, and pump away at the brake or clutch. The spring and bearing control the fluid flow so that no air gets inside.

These are probably overkill for a clutch system where you might do this once every 2 years. But, if you install them on your brakes too, a full system fluid flush/replace literally takes only a few minutes with little fuss.

I'll probably do a full CDV removal in the next few weeks. So many keep saying how great this is, that I feel left out.
I don't have any issues with the CDV, but if it makes the clutch more responsive, then that can only be good.

YES, always pump the system back up, also when you do brakes.
The reason why the pump method is better, imo, is because you do the pumping while you do the bleed. So you get the fluid level right, and keep the pressure up.
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      09-17-2010, 04:32 AM   #137
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The reason why I prefer a pressure bleeder is because a pressure bleeder will FILL the brake resivior with new fluid. When you are bleeding the clutch the last thing you want is to run the res out of fluid and introduce air into the hydraulic lines. THEN you got real work on your hands. In order to get the air out of the clutch lines.

The speed bleeder are a good idea. That might be a good solution for ppl who break the bleed nipple too. Since the bleed nipple only comes with the entire slave cylinder.

As for space... go look at my past photos in this thread. Just look back a few pages. You will see the working room/space is pretty tight under there. That is why I recommend you have a "few" 12 point 11mm wrenches - to get at the roght angle to open close that darn bleed nipple.
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      09-17-2010, 11:27 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
The reason why I prefer a pressure bleeder is because a pressure bleeder will FILL the brake resivior with new fluid. When you are bleeding the clutch the last thing you want is to run the res out of fluid and introduce air into the hydraulic lines. THEN you got real work on your hands. In order to get the air out of the clutch lines.

The speed bleeder are a good idea. That might be a good solution for ppl who break the bleed nipple too. Since the bleed nipple only comes with the entire slave cylinder.

As for space... go look at my past photos in this thread. Just look back a few pages. You will see the working room/space is pretty tight under there. That is why I recommend you have a "few" 12 point 11mm wrenches - to get at the roght angle to open close that darn bleed nipple.
Yes, the fact that the pressurized system feeds fluid while bleeding is a bonus. Didn't think of that one.

I've always been careful with the reservoir when doing brakes, and I've never gone too low and introduced more air. But, some of my friends have done it, then it is a pain.

Thanks for the info and the tips.
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      09-17-2010, 06:32 PM   #139
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any word on this with the 2011 n55's?
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      09-17-2010, 07:12 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevend218 View Post
any word on this with the 2011 n55's?
N55's have that damm CDV just like our N54's! Raus mit die CDV!!!!
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      09-18-2010, 02:06 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
N55's have that damm CDV just like our N54's! Raus mit die CDV!!!!
thx man, ill be deleting it this week
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      10-05-2010, 12:24 PM   #142
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Can anyone speculate on the possibility of the dealer spotting a modified OEM CDV?

Is this something they check for?

They would have to remove it and take a look inside....
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      10-06-2010, 04:46 PM   #143
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There is no way unless they deliberately take it out.
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      03-12-2011, 02:40 PM   #144
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      03-18-2011, 03:14 PM   #145
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Where can I buy an unmodified valve for $6 or $8?

I see online that after shipping it's $20, which is the same as my dealer. Anyone know of a place? I've heard Dan at United BMW, but I can't figure out who that is. Thanks!
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      03-18-2011, 04:52 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuderia000 View Post
Where can I buy an unmodified valve for $6 or $8?

I see online that after shipping it's $20, which is the same as my dealer. Anyone know of a place? I've heard Dan at United BMW, but I can't figure out who that is. Thanks!

Dan at United...

http://www.unitedbmwonline.com/

or...

Tischer...

http://www.getbmwparts.com/



Or... your local BMW dealer.

I paid ten euros (I think?) for mine over here.


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      03-18-2011, 05:42 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM90 View Post
Yes, the fact that the pressurized system feeds fluid while bleeding is a bonus. Didn't think of that one.

I've always been careful with the reservoir when doing brakes, and I've never gone too low and introduced more air. But, some of my friends have done it, then it is a pain.

Thanks for the info and the tips.
LOL, try swapping brake lines. There's some air for you.
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      03-18-2011, 06:38 PM   #148
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^^also don't forget that the clutch slave bleed screw is plastic (on some cars, mine was metal!). Some people have snapped thier bleed screws and had to buy a new slave instead of just the bleed nipple/screw.
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      03-19-2011, 08:20 PM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevend218 View Post
any word on this with the 2011 n55's?
Just did this to an n55 this afternoon. Everything is the same as the DIY explains, except the bleed valve took an 11mm wrench.

Feels awesome, there's no more jerking around in first. Much easier to properly balance RPMs and clutch position.
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      03-20-2011, 04:00 AM   #150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christopherkriens View Post
Just did this to an n55 this afternoon. Everything is the same as the DIY explains, except the bleed valve took an 11mm wrench.

Feels awesome, there's no more jerking around in first. Much easier to properly balance RPMs and clutch position.

My 2010, N54 had a 11mm bleed valve. Post #101 in this thread...


11mm Hazet wrenches...




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      03-24-2011, 04:10 PM   #151
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Anyone know of a part# for a brake resevoir cap to make my own pressurized system? Once I know this, the factory CDV is history.
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      03-24-2011, 05:28 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ bmw135i View Post
Anyone know of a part# for a brake resevoir cap to make my own pressurized system? Once I know this, the factory CDV is history.

Just buy the Motive (for european cars)one. $54 and you are done. Will last a lifetime.

http://store.motiveproducts.com/euro...-0100-p34.aspx


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      03-25-2011, 08:39 AM   #153
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Dackelone - Thanks. Ordered it and the modified CDV today .
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      06-16-2011, 07:06 PM   #154
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How much brake fluid do I need to properly bleed the clutch?

I just got the motive euro pressure bleeder in the mail and the tank is pretty big. I only have about 1/2 a bottle of Motul RBF 600 (a full bottle is still only 500mL). Will that be enough? This brake fluid is $15 a bottle!

If I need to buy more can someone recommend a good fluid that isn't so expensive or is that normal?

Thanks!
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