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      12-11-2008, 07:19 AM   #89
Citizen Z
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Nice flight gloves. Army?
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      12-12-2008, 08:25 PM   #90
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Is twisting the factory oil filter hard? I heard its hella tight, like on most cars.

LOL. People are rolling in bimmers and they are asking all kind questions. Just teasing. I guess I had to learn and do shit from scratch.

Funny how even w/ oil, not much people suggested Amsoil or Exon Mobil 1. I would have nothing less other than either of those 2 brands.

NEVER OVER SHOOT your oil level, NEVER ! You are fine a bit under, but NEVER OVER ! So play it safe, follow instructions and calibrate afterwards.

Thanks.
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      12-22-2008, 11:31 PM   #91
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Nice flight gloves. Army?
USAF:thumbup:
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      12-23-2008, 04:24 PM   #92
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Great Vid! so John how much money did you spend on the oil filter?
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      12-23-2008, 07:23 PM   #93
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Great Vid! so John how much money did you spend on the oil filter?
According to an older DIY on e90post, the filters are $15 and BMW's synthetic 5W30 is $5 a quart.
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      12-24-2008, 04:00 PM   #94
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According to an older DIY on e90post, the filters are $15 and BMW's synthetic 5W30 is $5 a quart.
and the filters are too bad..i was able to untighten it and tighten it by hand without any tools just fine...just used a microfiber cloth to get grip..make sure the green line matches back up...as the video states..easiest oil change ive ever done on any car!!

the bmw syn oil is 7 a qt...at least at my dealer..and the filter was around 20....i didnt care as my CA gave me a 50 giftcard...times 3...lol hes a good guy
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      01-04-2009, 07:09 PM   #95
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Thanks for the vid, John.

Like another poster, when I removed the oil filter cap (which was VERY tight in my case) the lettering on the filter is on the visible side. I replaced the filter the way it was positioned originally, as opposed to what was shown in the video. Is there a difference? The filter appears to function the same in either position.

Also, am I correct in assuming that you should lube the filter itself with a little bit of oil in addition to the two rings?

Thanks!
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      01-04-2009, 09:24 PM   #96
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Quote:
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Thanks for the vid, John.

Like another poster, when I removed the oil filter cap (which was VERY tight in my case) the lettering on the filter is on the visible side. I replaced the filter the way it was positioned originally, as opposed to what was shown in the video. Is there a difference? The filter appears to function the same in either position.

Also, am I correct in assuming that you should lube the filter itself with a little bit of oil in addition to the two rings?

Thanks!
Looking at the design of the filter I don't think the direction matters. I don't think the filter needs to be pre-lubed, just the o-rings. I base this on a regular oil filter, I've never put oil into a oil filter I was replacing, just lubed the o-ring.
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      05-26-2009, 04:13 PM   #97
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do you mind telling me where you jacked up your car?
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      06-06-2009, 10:37 PM   #98
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Factory jacking points, but you you need to use a piece of wood or you can damage the plastic part.
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      06-07-2009, 01:10 AM   #99
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good video!
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      06-07-2009, 02:07 PM   #100
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nice video...expect that I wouldnt use a couple of jacks...that's dangerous. rhino ramps work well or put the car up on jack stands.
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      06-08-2009, 10:25 AM   #101
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Rhino ramps are good and all but has anyone noticed that the car still has old oil in it when its jacked up or on ramps? I noticed how cars always have some oil left till you level it out
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      06-08-2009, 11:05 AM   #102
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Why it is important to line up the greed marking? Any one know. Thanks.
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      06-09-2009, 01:10 PM   #103
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John,
Thanks so much for the video. It's been more than fifteen years since I changed my own oil, but now that I've got a car I care about it'll be fun to give it a try.

Thanks again!
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      06-09-2009, 01:22 PM   #104
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Why it is important to line up the greed marking? Any one know. Thanks.
I guess matching to the green marking is an attempt to estimate the 25nm required torque...although I dont think that is a very accurate way to do it. I would just use a torque wrench with the appropriate socket.

You definitely do not want to over torque this cap as you may have issues trying to remove it next time.
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      06-09-2009, 01:38 PM   #105
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Before you ruin your filter housing, you need to buy one of these:
You need this part? Can't just use a regular old filter wrench?
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      06-09-2009, 02:08 PM   #106
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Rhino ramps work the best.

The BMW oil filter removal tool is a must have, I just picked one up and this thing works great!!

Also, I highly recommend you change the oil when the car is cool. Or, make some sort of shield because the oil will shoot out of the drain plug and get all over the skid plate...... just did the break in oil change on my new 1 and I made a huge mess..

Also, for those considering an alternate oil, I just used Mobil 1 0w-40 euro forumula and my oil temps have decreased. This oil is BMW approved.
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      06-09-2009, 05:15 PM   #107
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Also, I highly recommend you change the oil when the car is cool.
You should never change your oil when the engine is cool. It's too viscous and won't drain completely.
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      06-09-2009, 06:02 PM   #108
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Rhino ramps work the best.

The BMW oil filter removal tool is a must have, I just picked one up and this thing works great!!
Sorry, but does "must have" mean: you cannot complete the task without this tool? Or does it just mean it's really freakin' awesome?
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      06-10-2009, 07:04 PM   #109
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Sorry, but does "must have" mean: you cannot complete the task without this tool? Or does it just mean it's really freakin' awesome?
It is really awesome, however, you can still remove the filter housing using other methods.
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      06-11-2009, 07:15 AM   #110
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Thanks!
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