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      07-11-2009, 03:25 PM   #67
adk749
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Used the steps in this thread to hardwire my V1. Thanks! Where did everyone "hide" their wires? I have mine suctioned on the dash - center towards the bottom. I think I found a good place, but just curious.
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      08-04-2009, 08:49 PM   #68
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Good thread, clear and consice. Certainly helped speed up the install process. Thanks.

Here are some pics of my install. You will note that it is in the upper right of the drivers side. Location is stealthy and its far enough forward to see and doesn't feel that it is over your face. You do lose the sun visor but i you wire from the passanger side , you can move it down and to the center.





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      12-13-2009, 07:21 PM   #69
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Thanks to all the posters in this thread for the great info. Installed my V1 tonight in about 20 minutes. I did not remove the glovebox, just dropped the door down and there was plenty of access. The toughest part was getting the ground wire in behind the bolt and tightening, but it just took a couple minutes and experimenting with the best angle to bend the wire to get it in there.
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      01-12-2010, 06:16 PM   #70
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I tapped into cabin lights on my e39 - 5 minutes installation...

Quote:
Originally Posted by redwood View Post
What's wrong with using the sunroof option and has anybody gone that route yet? It only took me 15 minutes to do that on my E46 and I'd never done it before.
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      01-13-2010, 12:29 AM   #71
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What would it take to put in a recessed phone jack into the headliner on the side of the extrusion with the overhead light controls?

With such a jack I could use a very short standard phone patch cord for powering the V1, and be able to remove the unit for safekeeping or when not needed without leaving dangling wires coming out from behind the headliner or visor.

Anyone know what's behind the headliner next to the light controls?
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      01-13-2010, 11:54 AM   #72
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Has anyone identified powered wires (lights, homelink transmitter or sunroof) inside the overhead lights panel? Direct draw connection was extremely easy using the following harness that was included with V1 -
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      01-13-2010, 12:09 PM   #73
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I just tapped into the green wire (I did the same thing on the e46, e39, e60, e63, e82, and e92).... the hardest install yet was the m6...
here is a pic of what I had our m6 looking like mid install... there was no place to ground the thing b/c it was a cab, so I had to run it down the windshield channel and use the sun-visor mounts...
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      01-13-2010, 12:16 PM   #74
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Question

That's impressive I did the direct draw in my e39 and it was a snap - pick the right wire, connect the harness, stick the entire Direct-Wire power adapter somewhere inside so that it does not rattle and use a short phone cable to connect to visor mounted detector. Very clean install and provides front/rear line of sight.

Do you have any pics of the 1 series install and did you use the wiring harness shown above? I suspect there might be more than one green wire up there... Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike07i View Post
I just tapped into the green wire (I did the same thing on the e46, e39, e60, e63, e82, and e92).... the hardest install yet was the m6...
here is a pic of what I had our m6 looking like mid install... there was no place to ground the thing b/c it was a cab, so I had to run it down the windshield channel and use the sun-visor mounts...
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      01-13-2010, 12:30 PM   #75
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There might be more than one green wire, I don't remember I did it the second I drove the car home from the dealership and it might have taken 5 minutes... I didn't take any photos of the install on the e82 but it is a primarily green wire w/ a yellow line (I think, look for a primarily green wire)... you could always test it w/ a voltmeter if you like... I used the wiring harness that came w/ the v1, I felt comfortable w/ the extra fuse etc.
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      01-13-2010, 12:31 PM   #76
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Thanks!
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      03-01-2010, 05:23 PM   #77
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how about the dealer??? do you think they will bitch at this if your car had any other Electrical issue (something that is not even related to the cigrate AUX)
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      03-01-2010, 05:51 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ash83 View Post
how about the dealer??? do you think they will bitch at this if your car had any other Electrical issue (something that is not even related to the cigrate AUX)
Never had a problem with that. You can easily remove the panel and disconnect the plug if you're worried.
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      07-21-2010, 11:46 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwood View Post
What's wrong with using the sunroof option and has anybody gone that route yet? It only took me 15 minutes to do that on my E46 and I'd never done it before.
I have gone that route and seems a whole lot easier and less complicated than this. I would suggest harnessing the power from your sunroof if you want to hardwire your radar. Easiest and most convenient way of doing it
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      07-22-2010, 03:20 PM   #80
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Anyone install the concealed display in their 1 (especially a 2011 since that's what I'm looking at)? If so, have pics?

Regarding the tap vs vamp debate: The same discussions went (still are?) on the e90 forums too when my wife got hers with roughly the same results you see here. I'm on the "not modifying the wiring/giving the dealer an excuse" side myself.

One big mistake I saw a bunch of the e90 owners doing back then was that they would run the line to the unit on the door side of the A pillar and then cross it over were the pillar and roof liners meet. The problem is that this causes the cord to cross over your side air bag. I HIGHLY recommend that you take the time to take off the A pillar cover (on the e90 there is a star bolt under the little airbag plastic tab) and run the wire up so that it will not potentially interfere with your airbag.

As a long time V1 owner in VA, here are some thoughts on them being illegal:
  1. Yes they are.
  2. (at least in NoVA) Only the state cops are using the detectors that pick up the V1.
  3. Most local cops don't care about them beyond pointing out they are illegal.
  4. Airport authority is the big exception to the above. They will turn around and chase you down if they see it, but they don't have detectors (or at least not ones that pick up the V1).
  5. If you do get a ticket for it, it's an equipment violation which means no points.
  6. You REALLY have to piss the cop of for them to actually confiscate it as they have to treat it like any other evidence (which is usually too much of a PITA for them).
In roughly 14 years of running a V1 in VA I've gotten 2 tickets for it. One because the cop knew he didn't have anything else on me and the other was a state cop with the newer detector that picks up the V1. Only one other time where I was pulled over did they even notice it (in that case he tried to make fun of me for not doing me any good, but I pointed out that he hit me with laser so it told me to go ahead and pull over so he didn't even have to move his car. He laughed and knocked 10mph off the ticket).

Just my $0.03 for the discussion.

-dave
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      08-21-2010, 12:27 PM   #81
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Anyone wired via tapping to the wire under the sunroof switch panel? Thats how I have it in my M3 and its served me well for almost 10yrs. Id Love to see some pics, and also a proc for removing the sunroof switch panel to access the wire without chewing up the cover panel. Oh, and which color wire to tap in our 1 series? .. In my M3, its the purple one; in an E90 i believe I read its the green/white one.

If I decide to use the fuse box rather than tapping into a wire, is this the add-a-circuit product to use?

http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Mi...=pd_sbs_auto_2

I guess Id have to cut off the butt connector and crimp on a female spade for the V-1 to connect to?
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      08-23-2010, 01:42 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostm3 View Post
If I decide to use the fuse box rather than tapping into a wire, is this the add-a-circuit product to use?

http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Mi...=pd_sbs_auto_2

I guess Id have to cut off the butt connector and crimp on a female spade for the V-1 to connect to?
Yes that is the right type of thing to use to come out of the fuse box.

Go that route rather than try to tap in up top. You'll have 0 fit issues (e.g. having to cram the V1 power supply up there), never have to worry about getting the wrong wire (or damaging another while you are up there), and won't give the dealer anything to argue about should your sunroof (or other electronics up there) start having issues down the road.

You don't have to cut the connector off the end of the fuse wire. You simply strip the V1's power wire back, stick it in the connector and crimp it. You might, however, want to crimp on a spade to the ground for the V1 to make it easier to attach somewhere, but it's not a requirement.
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      08-23-2010, 03:04 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnat View Post
Yes that is the right type of thing to use to come out of the fuse box.

Go that route rather than try to tap in up top. You'll have 0 fit issues (e.g. having to cram the V1 power supply up there), never have to worry about getting the wrong wire (or damaging another while you are up there), and won't give the dealer anything to argue about should your sunroof (or other electronics up there) start having issues down the road.

You don't have to cut the connector off the end of the fuse wire. You simply strip the V1's power wire back, stick it in the connector and crimp it. You might, however, want to crimp on a spade to the ground for the V1 to make it easier to attach somewhere, but it's not a requirement.
Great advice.. Question.. What kind of fuses are in the 135i? My '99 M3 uses Maxi fuses, but Im reading the new cars use either mini, low profile mini, or ato fuses. Can you look again at the page
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Mi...=pd_sbs_auto_2 ,
and scroll down a bit, and youll see where you can buy 3 different add a fuse products in the section entitled, 'frequently bought together'. Can you tell me which of the 3 you see there is the right one to use for our cars? Also, there's the matter of the fuse to piggyback onto the top of the fuse holder.. Im confused if the fuse part of the device that plugs into the fuse box, and the one that piggybacks on top are the same size fuse?.. I read where the piggybacked fuse should be a mini fuse, but I cant tell in the copy if they are referring to the piggybacked fuse, or the main fuse that plugs into the fuse box? Lastly, what amp fuse would you suggest for the piggyback portion which powers the Valentine.?

Sorry to be a little retarded on this, but I really appreciate the help.
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      08-23-2010, 04:05 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostm3 View Post
Great advice.. Question.. What kind of fuses are in the 135i?
No idea as I don't have a 1 series yet. I don't remember what my wife's e90 took when we did it.

Quote:
Also, there's the matter of the fuse to piggyback onto the top of the fuse holder.. Im confused if the fuse part of the device that plugs into the fuse box, and the one that piggybacks on top are the same size fuse?.. I read where the piggybacked fuse should be a mini fuse, but I cant tell in the copy if they are referring to the piggybacked fuse, or the main fuse that plugs into the fuse box? Lastly, what amp fuse would you suggest for the piggyback portion which powers the Valentine.?
You want (need) to find a fuse that will only have power when the car is actually running. You'd have to look at the manual to get a better idea of what is what (I think someone actually posted which fuse they used earlier in the thread, but it's been awhile since I read it all).

As far as the fuse type, it will be the same as the fuse you are replacing (e.g. if it's a mini, then the V1 will use a mini as well).

According to V1's website (and should be in your manual), it takes a 1amp fuse in line. You have two choices (assuming a new power supply). Either you can crimp the power lead in as is which has the 1amp fuse holder in place, then anything 1amp or more is acceptable in the pigtail. Or you can cut out the fuse hold in which case you MUST use a 1amp fuse in the pigtail.

If you aren't big on how car electronics work and your power supply for the V1 is new, I would suggest that you leave the inline fuse holder in place and let the V1 depend on that. That way it isn't critical what you use in the pigtail (as long as it is 1amp or more).
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      08-28-2010, 04:56 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rye View Post
Will the V1 fit above the rear view mirror on the driver's side? Or is there not enough room there? Kind of like how you have your EZ-Pass on the passenger side, can the V1 fit on the other side?
yes, and it works fine there.
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      09-01-2010, 10:38 PM   #86
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Thanks for all the info and pix! Installed my Passport last weekend with ease...

Several (perhaps slightly obvious) things that made the process even easier:

Ran the cord starting at the detector end so that all the slack wound up behind the glovebox. I zip tied this off to one of the wiring harnesses so that the in-line fuse holder doesn't rattle around.

I got a set of blue plastic interior trim tools (from Amazon) and these made stuffing the cord behind the headliner and door seal a snap.

When I used double stick tape to stick the remote mute button to the bottom of the dash, I could see the white from the tape and got annoyed. Unmounted it and took a back sharpie to the sides of the tape. Much happier...
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      10-02-2010, 07:01 PM   #87
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Could someone say a word about the best way to route the V1 wire from out of the glove box and up the passenger side A Pillar? The pic shows a peel-back of the rubber molding, but I cant get a perspective on the routing of the wire..

thanks.
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      10-02-2010, 07:41 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostm3 View Post
Could someone say a word about the best way to route the V1 wire from out of the glove box and up the passenger side A Pillar? The pic shows a peel-back of the rubber molding, but I cant get a perspective on the routing of the wire..
IIRC on the e90 if you go the route of removing the a-pillar trim (see my argument for that above), there is a gap between the a-pillar and dash when you take the trim off. That gives you access to just feed the wire up through the hole.

I don't know if the 1 is the same way or not though.
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