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      10-11-2010, 12:44 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxnix View Post
Well, with the Escort remote controller, no way to do it that way.
Hey bud, how's it going? Where did you install yours? Pics??
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      10-29-2010, 04:42 PM   #90
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I did this. I will add one tip.

The ground screw needs to come out in order to insert the U plug. Unless you have tiny tiny tiny fingers.
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      11-01-2010, 09:23 PM   #91
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nice write-up. I mounted mine on the driver's side of the rear view mirror.

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      01-09-2011, 02:13 AM   #92
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Just did my hard-wire. I hate the people who designed this car more and more every time I try to do something to it. When I changed out my halos, I realized that the headlight compartments don't just pop open like the manual says, and now this hidden fuse panel. What kind of crap is this?
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      01-09-2011, 09:38 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egainer View Post
Just did my hard-wire. I hate the people who designed this car more and more every time I try to do something to it. When I changed out my halos, I realized that the headlight compartments don't just pop open like the manual says, and now this hidden fuse panel. What kind of crap is this?
Just think how much more the bmw techs must hate it... They have to work on these things every day@! Still, I love my new 135i all the same..
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      01-09-2011, 02:48 PM   #94
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Thanks for all the info to everyone who posted pics and their process. Couple questions for the class:

Did anyone have a bitch of a time getting the plastic lower panel back on when reassembling? I can't get that plastic barrel/pin connector back in, the hole isn't lining up, but the screws are in and tight with no rattles.

Also, I'm running a 10 amp fuse in the top position of the add-a-fuse (the slot closest to you when plugged in) and everything starts up and runs fine. Am I correct in thinking that since it's the only thing I'm running off that tap I only need the one fuse, or is (2) 10-amp fuses the way to go?

Edit: this is where I mounted my remote display. It's out of the way, close at hand but my hand doesn't block it when the car is in gear.


Last edited by ArightDoom; 01-09-2011 at 03:15 PM.
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      03-09-2011, 01:04 PM   #95
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I just got off the phone with tech support at Valentine 1. I was told that the radar detector can't handle more than a 2 amp fuse for hard wire in the fuse box. I was also told that the radar detector parts would overheat and start frying if the attached fuse is above 2 amps!

I have heard from other sources that radar detectors in general only need about 1 or 2 amps.

I just removed my valentine 1 hardwire from my old car, which I'm selling so I could install it in my 135. I had it installed a while ago at Houston Car Stereo. They didn't use the add a fuse technique. The red wire from the hardwire kit was just inserted/wedged under an existing 15 amp fuse in the fuse box. I didn't have any trouble with the radar detector, but the end of the wire that was sandwiched under the 15 amp fuse has melted a little. That leads me to believe that the valentine 1 tech support may be right about using a fuse with a 2 amp maximum.

So from what I understand. I should use no higher than a 1 or 2 amp fuse in the 'add a fuse' to power the radar detector. If I'm using slot 8 I should use an 18 amp fuse to go in the slot that replaces the existing 20 amp fuse along with a 2 amp fuse to power the radar detector.

My question is:

Do i have to insert 2 fuses in the 'add a fuse' if I'm using the empty slot 5?
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      04-14-2011, 01:50 PM   #96
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When using the add-a-fuse, please be sure to install it the correct way in the fuse box. If you can pull out the upper fuse and the power to your device stays on, then you have it backwards.

If you have another fuse between the add-a-fuse and your device, then it won't matter...your device is protected by that fuse.

It is true that radar detectors would need a 2amp fuse max, 1 amp should be plenty.
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      04-25-2011, 10:30 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NSX JR View Post
When using the add-a-fuse, please be sure to install it the correct way in the fuse box. If you can pull out the upper fuse and the power to your device stays on, then you have it backwards.

If you have another fuse between the add-a-fuse and your device, then it won't matter...your device is protected by that fuse.

It is true that radar detectors would need a 2amp fuse max, 1 amp should be plenty.
Wait, so does that mean I need to replace my 10 amp fuse with a 2amp fuse is I JUST have that fuse in there? If I remember correctly it's in slot 8 (or whichever the acc slot is on the 128... This was 3 months ago at this point).
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      05-01-2011, 04:54 PM   #98
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Thank you all! This was an Extremely helpful thread. Just finished mine, took about about 1 hour and I was really taking my time. You could really do this in about 30 min once you have all the necessary pieces.

A couple things...

1) Just as a tip, if you only put one fuse in the add-a-circuit it needs to be in the slot furthest from the prongs.

2) The hardwiring kit for my V1 came with a 2 amp fuse in the line already so it seems that it would be sufficient, no?

3) Slot #8 already had a fuse in it, so I used #5. Did you guys who used #8 take the fuse out and replace it with the add-a-circuit?
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      04-02-2012, 12:48 AM   #99
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Soo stealth, me like. Thank you OP!!!

I apologize for the dirty car.


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      04-02-2012, 07:05 AM   #100
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Nice DIY, did this mod this weekend as well...Great to get the power cord out of the way.
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      04-03-2012, 08:52 AM   #101
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FYI, you can do this hardwire mod without completely removing the glove box, just follow the instructions for accessing the fuse panel that is in the Owner's Manual; less work that way
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      04-03-2012, 08:38 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArightDoom View Post
Wait, so does that mean I need to replace my 10 amp fuse with a 2amp fuse is I JUST have that fuse in there? If I remember correctly it's in slot 8 (or whichever the acc slot is on the 128... This was 3 months ago at this point).
Yes, I would put a 2 AMP fuse in there instead. I would recommend a 1A fuse, but the add-a-fuse device I used recommends 2A as the smallest. Because of this I left the 1A inline fuse in place from my hardwire kit. So i have a 2A then a 1A fuse powering my detector.



Also, as others have stated, there is no reason at all to remove the glove box. Just remove the actuator and let the glove box fall down (gently) all the way. This will save you from removing 6 bolts, a fastener, and a panel.
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      04-09-2012, 12:50 AM   #103
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finally got around to doing this today on a 1M. I dropped the glovebox as recommended for access, used the empty slot 5 and grounded to the big metal torx bolt that sits to the left of the fuse panel. I didn't have a torx screwdriver that big, but luckily it wasn't in tight and an allen wrench did the trick to loosen a few turns. I used one 2 amp fuse on the "tap" side of the add-a-fuse.

I used the V1 hardwire thing that had an inline fuse already. If you use this part, don't worry what size the fuse in your tap is, so long as it's under 20A. The add-a-fuse mini i bought from autozone had 2 fuse slots. the slot directly above the prongs should match what is already installed. The slot that looks closest to the "tap" should be appropriate to what you're running from the tap. In this case valentine recommends 2A, and I happened to have a spare 2A mini, so I used it.

I mounted the hardwire module on the shelf to the right as previously photographed in this thread with no issues. ziptied all the wires to remove slack. I ran the cord behind the weatherstripping and mounted on the passenger visor. The 1M doesn't have a tinted windshield so the recess helps to hide the v1 more effectively and makes it easier to move between cars.

Thanks to all who posted their experiences, recommendations and pictures.
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      04-09-2012, 01:40 AM   #104
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Guys I know this is off-topic but would anyone have tried this same technique with a phone charger? I plan on using the fuse tap, add a fuse to the wiring and a 12AC female socket for the actual phone charging jingle. Right now I'm trying to figure out what amp fuse I should be using as I don't want to end up frying my phone charger.

Thanks,
Jeff
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      04-09-2012, 01:03 PM   #105
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It would not be a problem. That is exactly how a 12V outlet is wired. Most phones can only take 0.5A @ 12V, so 6A max. The cigarette circuit had a 20A fuse in my 135, I used a 10A fuse for my phone.

B

Quote:
Originally Posted by JefryHorizon View Post
Guys I know this is off-topic but would anyone have tried this same technique with a phone charger? I plan on using the fuse tap, add a fuse to the wiring and a 12AC female socket for the actual phone charging jingle. Right now I'm trying to figure out what amp fuse I should be using as I don't want to end up frying my phone charger.

Thanks,
Jeff
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      04-13-2012, 11:09 AM   #106
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I hardwired my V1 at the bottom of my windshield. Looks a lot better without that crazy coiled cord hanging around.
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      06-19-2012, 04:56 PM   #107
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12v constant

Quote:
Originally Posted by hansenc View Post
I have about 3 fuse taps in my vehicle (two separate ignition lines and one 12v constant). I tapped into empty fuse holders but the key is do not complete the circuit.

I took special care to ensure that the way i plugged in my fuse taps it gave me the power i needed but did not complete the circuit.

In this type of case you will only be putting in one fuse into the fuse tap, not two.
Hey Hansenc,

Can you tell me where you taped the 12v constant? I need this in my car for a aftermarket satnav but i already tried some fuses but they all, only give me power when the car is on (the one's i used are market red). I know that your car has a other type of fuse box but can you tell me in witch number you've put it.

Sorry for the bad english but i am DUTCH
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      06-20-2012, 08:32 AM   #108
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A point of clarification about fuses. There is no way too big a fuse will, by itself, hurt your electronics. The issue is just they will not protect it either. If your electronics develops a problem, the purpose of the fuse is to blow protecting it and the car from seeing too much current thus too much heat thus risk of additional damage. A 10amp fuse on a 1 amp load will not blow until you have a mess. But the fuse should never blow anyway. It takes another issue before it makes any difference.

Another factor is the size of the wire. If it will not carry the load the fuse will permit, it will overheat and become a hazard. But again, this is only a problem is something else goes wrong.

Jim
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      08-19-2012, 09:12 PM   #109
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Thanks everybody for the info. It took me an hour to complete the installation of a detector on my 1M despite having DIY the same on my Audi A4 Quattro, which was so much easier. I used vacant fuse slot No. 5. No significant problem experienced except the limited space available for attachment.

Just want to add that the large bolt for ground attachment is a Torx 30. Hope that helps.

Last edited by Plover; 08-19-2012 at 10:10 PM.
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      12-21-2012, 12:21 PM   #110
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Just went to my local auto parts shop and I was going to buy both sizes of fuse taps (add-a-fuse) for ATM and ATC; but, they only had ATC.

Does anyone know if the fuse is ATC or ATM before I start getting into it?

Thanks!
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