BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)


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      12-30-2012, 03:12 AM   #111
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Very nice write up! Thanks!!
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      01-26-2013, 01:08 AM   #112

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Used this thread to great effect! Thanks all for the contributions!
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      01-29-2013, 06:44 PM   #113
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Finally got around to doing this.

As others have mentioned, I didn't remove the whole glove box, just used those latch releases. And for this who are curious, you need the ATM fuse tap.

I also tapped into fuse 5 as my 8 was occupied.

Thanks for the write-up!
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      09-01-2013, 10:30 AM   #114
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Great DIY i used it to hard wire my V1 however after reading through the whole thread i'm afraid i'm still confused on what amp fuses to use in the add-a-fuse device. People seem to be using all different combos, 2 x 20amp fuses, 2 x 10amp fuses, 1x 10amp & 1x 2amp or 1 fuse only

Also i planned on using slot 5 (as it's vacant) but according to the fuse diagram card it is allocated to the steering wheel picture along with fuses 49 & 75. Any idea what that picture means? Am i still ok to use that slot?

At the moment i am using slot 8 with a 20amp fuse + a 2amp in the secondary slot of the add a fuse device (in addition to the 2amp fuse in the V1 Hard wire kit) Just a bit concerned that the V1 is now actually protected by 24amps in total and could get fried?

Last edited by Prodigy.; 09-02-2013 at 01:34 AM.
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      09-02-2013, 02:12 PM   #115
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In the hardware kit there is also a fuse. Its been a while since I installed mine.
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      05-10-2015, 07:36 PM   #116
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Thanks for the write up, made the job very fast! I only had a medium sized add-a-circuit lying around so I used fuse #83 (20 amp) with a 10 amp fuse. Only downside to using #83 is that the power is always on rather than on ignition, so I'll have to turn off my V1 until I order a mini add-a-circuit to replace it.
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      07-18-2015, 05:54 PM   #117
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F**k ! Getting to that grounding screw was a BITCH!

But, I got it done. thanks for the write up.

Any advice on tucking the wire behind the trim? I used my fingers and a screw driver, but needs some more tucking to be perfect.

I used open slot #5 with (2) 20Amp fuses in the mini adapter slots. The advance auto guy said that will be be fine. looks good, works fine.

My install, perfect.
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      07-26-2015, 01:38 PM   #118
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Thank you for this thread! Hardwiring my trusty V1 was the first mod I did to my new car and this gave me the courage to do it.

I want to address a few issues I found that might help others doing this... I think the two hardest parts of this process include: 1) removing the dome light assembly / dropping the headliner and 2) finding a fuse to tap. Do all this at your own risk.

Before anyone proceeds with the install, start with a good phone cord... preferably the one that comes with the v1. I tried 3 different phone cords that didn't work right before I broke down and ordered another one from v1 (luckily I bench tested them before trying to install them). Note that Valentine Research has free shipping on their parts so my advice is just order one if you don't already have it (or used it on a previous project).

1) Remove the dome light and drop the headliner

Both are very easy steps once you know how to do them but (atleast to me) were daunting tasks. Lowering the headliner has already been covered countless times throughout the forum... it entails just removing two screws. At that point the headliner drops about an inch and a half without any further struggle with clips or anything else.

Once the headliner is dropped you have access to the two front tabs on the dome light. This thread contains a few photos that will guide you to exactly where the tabs are: Just depress those tabs and the assembly can be removed.

To ensure that the phone cord doesn't get ripped out or pulled out by accident I zip tied it to a large part of the wiring harness for the dome light assembly.

2) Finding a fuse.

I used a small blade fuse tap as everyone else has and I found an empty fuse slot. I think I used fuse 10... it was something related to power seats (which I don't have) and it's switched power. Unless you have a fully optioned car you should definitely be able to find a few empty fuse slots and not even have to deal with actually having a "pass through" fuse in your add a fuse.

As to what amp fuse to use, I also ordered two extra 2 amp small blade fuses from Valentine... the same ones that are used in the cigarette lighter power adapter for the v1. I figured if it works there it should work in the car.

Hope that helps someone!
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      04-20-2016, 05:14 PM   #119
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Glove box doesn't seem to want to drop. I once did it without taking it out. Thoughts??
Now: 2013 135i manual Black on coral, all options except HK.
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