BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      11-19-2008, 06:50 PM   #1
IBSC
New Member
 
Drives:
Join Date: Nov 2008

Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)

Parts: OEM versus genuine versus aftermarket

ABOUT ‘OEM’, GENUINE, AFTERMARKET PARTS, SPECIALIST BMW REPAIRERS AND SERVICE INTERVALS

PARTS

What does OEM, aftermarket and genuine really mean ?

First it’s important to understand the BMW themselves manufacture very little of the cars they assemble and sell.

When a new model is being developed BMW provide outside manufacturers with specifications of a certain component they will require for the new model.
These manufacturers then design the product to meet these specifications and fit inside the ‘package envelope’.
This is basically external dimensions to suit the location of the component in the vehicle.
Once this is complete, the manufacturer provides an ‘offer to supply’.
This is of course based on quantities required.
BMW then select from one of these manufacturers who then commence manufacture and supply to BMW for vehicle assembly.
This manufacturer has now become an OEM or original equipment manufacturer and is manufacturing and supplying ‘genuine’ parts to BMW.

This company may provide BMW with this component for the entire production run of the vehicle or more commonly may only be given the contract to supply for a certain period of time or number of units before the contract expires.
At this point BMW will attempt to renegotiate their pricing structure taking into account the fact that the manufacturer should by now have recovered their initial research, development and design costs and be able to reduce their per unit cost dramatically.

While company ‘a’ has been supplying BMW with this component some of the other companies who also did research, development and design work (but failed to win the initial contract) have been busy getting production online for this component knowing that there will at some point be a large ‘aftermarket’ demand for this part.
So when the contract renewal negotiations with company ‘a’ break down due to pricing or other issues, company ‘b’ steps in and commences supply at the lower price demanded by BMW.

So now company ‘a’ has tooling, quality control, manufacturing and packaging ability for a part BMW no longer purchase from them.

What to do ?

They are still an OEM supplier so they simply (and it is usually this simple) remove the BMW logo from their tooling, continue manufacture and order packaging with their own name.

This is therefore an OEM part and the exact same part BMW sold without the ridiculous price tag.

Now we get to ‘aftermarket’.

Some people consider that OEM and aftermarket are the same.
In some cases this is just a poor use of words and the items they use or sell and call aftermarket are actually OEM.

But there are aftermarket parts that are manufactured and supplied by companies who have never supplied to BMW, never passed any of BMW’s quality systems and therefore should be avoided at all costs.

There is a popular and well known Australian filter manufacturer who now have a large range of filters to suit BMW.
Some of these are made in Australia and some are sourced from other countries such as Turkey.
Enough said.

So when you take your BMW to a service centre that is not BMW authorized, as long as they use OEM parts your vehicle is not suffering in any way.
You are just saving money, sometimes as much as 60%.

There are even instances where your specialist repairer can and will fit a better part than BMW.
Example:
On some 4 and 6 cylinders there are oil vapor hoses that are made from a rubber with the quality of a good vintage tasty cheese.
Of course BMW just keep renewing these at the customers expense every year or so with the same $50.00+ cheesy product.
Whereas your specialist repairer who is aware of this will renew the hose with an oil and temperature resistant product that will last forever and cost $12.00.

OILS & SERVICE

Oils aint Oils

Still true today but it is important to remember that frequency of oil change is just as important as the quality of oil used.

At the time of writing BMW promote their vehicles as having a 25,000 klm service interval but there have been whispers that this will soon change due to the endless stream of vehicles having problems caused by insufficient servicing.

The oil BMW use is provided by Castrol and is a fully synthetic product.
This is very good oil but after my time at BMW and seeing vehicles coming in for service after 25,000 (and up to 34,000 klms) it is obvious that no oil can survive for that period of time.

In particular the 4 cylinder valvetronic engines suffer very badly from a buildup of sludge deposits to the extent that the crankcase ventilation valve and hoses actually become blocked solid causing the engine to run rough.
Therefore the intake manifold is removed and these hoses and valve are replaced at the customers cost.
Of course BMW does not take any responsibility for this even though they sold you the vehicle using extended service intervals as a selling point.

In every engine it takes at least 20 minutes of running for the oil to reach a temperature where the unburnt fuel deposits can be burnt off enabling the oil to provide proper lubrication and protection for the engine.

So if your BMW is used for mainly short trips to the shop, work etc and rarely gets a good long run it is critical to change your oil more frequently.

We recommend the tried and tested 10,000 klms or 12 months as a maximum.
This should be reduced accordingly if the vehicles use is predominantly short trips.

Your specialist BMW repairer may have the same diagnosis equipment (GT1) used by BMW and using this can perform what is called an energy diagnosis to determine the amount and length of your trips.
This will enable them to accurately determine how frequently you should service your vehicle.
Energy diagnosis is unfortunately only available on later model vehicles such as E90 3 series.

So when your technician says you will need a service again in 10,000 klms but the service indicator still says 25,000 to next service, they are not overservicing your car or trying to generate extra income.

They have your best interests at heart and are trying to avoid having to tell you your car needs major repairs !!

And a 'service' every 10,000 klms does not mean your typical '$500.00 - $1000.00 thanks for coming' dealership service.
This additional or iterim service every 10,000 klms really only needs to be a quick oil change and check over.
Depending of course on your vehicles oil capacity and oil filter cost this should only cost $100 - $200 and is the absolute best thing you can do to maintain longevity for your engine.
__________________
Darren Mitchell
Independent BMW Service Centre
2/5 Hydro Rise, Bibra Lake
Western Australia, 6163, Australia
Telephone: 0404 628 738
International: +61 404 628 738

service@independentbmwservicecentre.com
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Current Drives:
1989 BMW ETURDY 318i M40 - Bog Stock Standard
2008 Honda Civic Sport (Missus)
Waiting On:
Lotto win

PLEASE TRY TO REMEMBER, WE DONT MAKE THEM AND WE DONT BREAK THEM, WE JUST FIX THEM :iono:
IBSC is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      11-19-2008, 07:22 PM   #2
TimMc
Lieutenant Colonel
 
TimMc's Avatar
 
Drives: 135i SCT N54
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Posts: 1,848
iTrader: (0)

Thanks Darren. Sounds like sound advice.

I read on some posts that people are taking there car in for "the 3000km service"? My local dealer tells me that this is only required on M models and that 25k is sufficient for mine... I'll initially be changing my oil between 3K & 5K & will source a "genuine" filter. Based on your advice I'll then change oil at least every 10K.

Cheers & good luck with the business!
__________________
Driving - Man 135 (LeMans/Black). BMW Perf SW & SSK. Quaife LSD, KW V2s, Ground Control camber plates, M3 front Control Arms & SB, Helix IC, AR DPs, PROcede V5, ER CP, Forge DVs, BMS OCC, Setrab OC, P3 Gauge.
Riding - ZX14R Kwaka, Avanti Aggressor, Malvern Star Equipe, Mini Mal.
Proudly from the Shire.
TimMc is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-19-2008, 10:03 PM   #3
IBSC
New Member
 
Drives:
Join Date: Nov 2008

Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)

Hi Tim,

Thats correct, at 2500 klms all M Power product has a 'running in service'.
This is engine oil and filter, gearbox oil and diff oil.
The vehicle then needs to be connected to GT1 and be told the service has been completed and so enabling more performance.

With your 135, I would change the oil at 5,000 using something like Agip Techsint and a genuine or Mann & Hummel filter.
BMW use oil that is branded as their own special stuff hocus pocus and all that but it is Castrol Edge Sport 5W-30.
Then change every 10,000 unless you do shirt trips all the time or drive it hard.

There have been some problems with hydraulic lifters in the new 6 cylinders to the extent that in the one dealer I was at there were about 6 head swaps done under warranty.
Characterised by the tic tic tic noise that usually stops if you restart the engine.
SI was sent out stating this was a bleed issue and no short or long term damage will be caused by this.
Another reason to keep your oil clean.

Also worth remembering that the engine oil is also the oil that lubricates the turbo's at 3 zillion rpm so you must use a good oil.

Darren
__________________
Darren Mitchell
Independent BMW Service Centre
2/5 Hydro Rise, Bibra Lake
Western Australia, 6163, Australia
Telephone: 0404 628 738
International: +61 404 628 738

service@independentbmwservicecentre.com
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Current Drives:
1989 BMW ETURDY 318i M40 - Bog Stock Standard
2008 Honda Civic Sport (Missus)
Waiting On:
Lotto win

PLEASE TRY TO REMEMBER, WE DONT MAKE THEM AND WE DONT BREAK THEM, WE JUST FIX THEM :iono:
IBSC is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      11-19-2008, 10:18 PM   #4
Kris
Colonel
 
Drives: m3
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: USOFA

Posts: 2,295
iTrader: (0)

Issue is, you go and put XYZ oil into your car and get your regular services and BMW put in Castrol unless you supply your own oil. If you're like me, and get 3 years free servicing its easier/cheaper just to stick to the service plan and let BMW deal with any engine issues that arise.

Unless you plan on keeping the car years and years and years, I dont see the point in doing all these regular oil changes and stuff?

Just my thoughts.
Kris is offline   No_Country
0
Reply With Quote
      11-19-2008, 10:41 PM   #5
andrew@southernBM
 
andrew@southernBM's Avatar
 
Drives: 135i, M3 92 SC'd, M235i
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Melbourne, Australia.

Posts: 1,458
iTrader: (0)

I Hear what you are saying ISBC, and agree to most of what you say and as its your thread i will not go too far but to say with Oil changes and intrim servicing why would you bother going for anything other than genuine for filters. They are only like $35 for a filter and $100 odd dollars for Castrol oil. Why do you need the stress with warranties by using aftermarket filters? We use all Genuine filters and BMW recomended oils by the way. I agree with the bushes and suspension components using OEM.

If you need anything BMW related ISBC, give me a buzz whenever you like.
andrew@southernBM is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-19-2008, 10:59 PM   #6
oneill3
Private
 
oneill3's Avatar
 
Drives: 135i Coupe
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Brisbane

Posts: 99
iTrader: (0)

Thanks for the info Darren
__________________
"I'm here to chew bubblegum and kick ass, and I'm all out of bubblegum"
oneill3 is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-20-2008, 03:18 AM   #7
Guran
Captain
 
Guran's Avatar
 
Drives: 08 135i Coupe
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Wollongong, Australia

Posts: 902
iTrader: (0)

Excellent post Darren. I had previously been in the "trust BMW engineers to know their stuff" wrt service intervals. You've given me some food for thought considering that I plan to keep my 135i for the long haul (until fuel prices go totally bonkers, and even then it'd probably become a track tool). Thanks!
__________________
08 BMW 135i Sport Coupe | Manual | Sparkling Graphite | Coral Red Boston Leather | 10 Speaker Hi Fi
Guran is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-20-2008, 03:25 AM   #8
AussieRacer
Major
 
AussieRacer's Avatar
 
Drives: 2008 135i
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Aust

Posts: 1,058
iTrader: (0)

Great info Darren.

Nice to hear some practical "consequences" of sticking to the long service intervals.
__________________
Current: 135i Auto, Le Mans Blue - w/ Bridgestone RE-11 rears, GP Thunder 7500k angels, & "golf tee" mod plus a few M3 suspension bits and pieces...
AussieRacer is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-20-2008, 07:41 AM   #9
xbook
Lieutenant Colonel
 
xbook's Avatar
 
Drives: '14 EBII M235i & '06 R53 GP
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Northridge, CA

Posts: 1,536
iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2008 E82  [0.00]
Thanks for the post Darren. Nice to hear that stuff from someone "in the trenches". Now I know how my buddy was able to brake rotors on my MINI for $40 a wheel. He was using the parts from supplier "A", like you described above. Makes TONS of sense.
__________________
xbook is offline   Zimbabwe
0
Reply With Quote
      11-20-2008, 08:40 AM   #10
IBSC
New Member
 
Drives:
Join Date: Nov 2008

Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)

Ok, one at a time.

Kris:

Should have mentioned that my dribbling was for those people who are keeping thier car for many years and dont have a service plan.
If you are a business user and just flick it after the lease is up, then definatly save your money and just stick to the scheduled servicing.
Whatever goes wrong, BMW are obliged to fix.

If you have a five year lease and three years warranty there are two years in there that could cost you a bomb but you do have the option to purchase a BMW extended warranty (I think).

Andrew - Southern BM:

Again I should have been clearer.
For any cars we service that are still under factory warranty we also use genuine oil filters and Castrol LL01 oil (except diesel with particulate filter that requires LL04).

For cars that are out of warranty we stock genuine and OEM filters and give the customer a choice.
Just an oil service is only a saving of maybe $10.00 but when you change every filter in the car you can save up to $100.00 using OEM.
The reason I prefer Agip Techsint in performance engines is just experience.
It is on the BMW approved oil list and I have put it in customers cars (not only BMW's) that they have taken out on the track and flogged the car to within an inch of its life and it still does not break down.
Just a personal thing.

Please all try and remember that in the Independent BMW service business we tend to have a customer base that is 90% second or third owner and the vehicle is out of warranty.
So the primary objective is to ensure that the vehicle gives the owner trouble free motoring.
I would much rather do an oil change on a customers car every 10,000 klms than have to tell them that their 100,000 klm old engine that has only had four services is clogged up with oil sludge and requires major work to fix.
Some people are ok with breaking news like that to a customer but I am not.
My role as their technician and what they pay me for is to (as much as possible and barring unforseen circumstances) take care of their car so I never have to give them bad news and perform major repairs that could have been avoided.

Anyone who regularly works on BMW, especially the Valvetronic 4 cylinder engines knows exactly what I am talking about.
I have taken the rocker cover off a 51,000 klm old engine that has only had one service at 32,000 klms (as determined by the onboard service indicator)and it looked like someone had tipped a bucket of mud on the cylinder head.
__________________
Darren Mitchell
Independent BMW Service Centre
2/5 Hydro Rise, Bibra Lake
Western Australia, 6163, Australia
Telephone: 0404 628 738
International: +61 404 628 738

service@independentbmwservicecentre.com
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Current Drives:
1989 BMW ETURDY 318i M40 - Bog Stock Standard
2008 Honda Civic Sport (Missus)
Waiting On:
Lotto win

PLEASE TRY TO REMEMBER, WE DONT MAKE THEM AND WE DONT BREAK THEM, WE JUST FIX THEM :iono:
IBSC is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      11-20-2008, 06:36 PM   #11
beemer
force fed Member
 
beemer's Avatar
 
Drives: BSM 1M
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: sydney

Posts: 1,002
iTrader: (0)

how hard is it to change the oil and filter yourself? is possible to do in the back yard?
beemer is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-20-2008, 07:10 PM   #12
WAY
Brigadier General
 
Drives: Fast ones
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Posts: 3,923
iTrader: (0)

Great to have people like yourself and Andrew@SouthernBM here. I have changed my oil and filter 3 times and I have done 4500km haha. I am also using ELF Racing oil instead of the factory castrol. You seem to think very highly of the Agip. I may give that a go in the future. I had been told by others overseas that the ELF reduces the oil temp (which is a real issue for me), but I have seen no evident of that so may just try some other oil.
WAY is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-21-2008, 02:19 AM   #13
IBSC
New Member
 
Drives:
Join Date: Nov 2008

Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)

Hi Beemer,

Oil change is easy but getting under the car can be an issue !
You really need at a decent trolley jack and a pair of jack stands.

Way, I do quite like the Elf oils. Faultless reputation but because I have no experiance with them I just stick to what I know and trust.
And just reading your cars options gives me that warm feeling between my legs! :wub:
__________________
Darren Mitchell
Independent BMW Service Centre
2/5 Hydro Rise, Bibra Lake
Western Australia, 6163, Australia
Telephone: 0404 628 738
International: +61 404 628 738

service@independentbmwservicecentre.com
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Current Drives:
1989 BMW ETURDY 318i M40 - Bog Stock Standard
2008 Honda Civic Sport (Missus)
Waiting On:
Lotto win

PLEASE TRY TO REMEMBER, WE DONT MAKE THEM AND WE DONT BREAK THEM, WE JUST FIX THEM :iono:
IBSC is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      11-21-2008, 02:20 AM   #14
TimMc
Lieutenant Colonel
 
TimMc's Avatar
 
Drives: 135i SCT N54
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Posts: 1,848
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by beemer View Post
how hard is it to change the oil and filter yourself? is possible to do in the back yard?
There's a few threads about this on the main forum. Doesn't look too hard. The main problem looks to be stopping the oil from squirting sideways and missing your oil pan. I'll give it a go in a few thousand Ks. Just have to track down the right oil (AGIP or whatever).

The local Brisbane dealer uses a Shell synthetic oil 0W-30 or something (I've got the spec written down somewhere...). It's not the Shell Helix Ultra you buy off the shelf at K-Mart so I'll have to find a source for this or the Agip.
__________________
Driving - Man 135 (LeMans/Black). BMW Perf SW & SSK. Quaife LSD, KW V2s, Ground Control camber plates, M3 front Control Arms & SB, Helix IC, AR DPs, PROcede V5, ER CP, Forge DVs, BMS OCC, Setrab OC, P3 Gauge.
Riding - ZX14R Kwaka, Avanti Aggressor, Malvern Star Equipe, Mini Mal.
Proudly from the Shire.
TimMc is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-21-2008, 03:06 AM   #15
Alpine*
Brigadier General
 
Alpine*'s Avatar
 
Drives: CLK63 Black
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Australia

Posts: 3,287
iTrader: (0)

Thanks IBSC

As an owner of an M I am "re considering" my planned servicing schedule (wait till the indicator tells me) as a result of your informative commentary.

With the Corporate BMW programme, there is a 2 year free service deal, I will approach the locals and see how they feel about a more (heaps more frequent) oil /filter replacement.

Again thanks :thumbup:

oh yeh, I might also have a re think about the 135 as well!
Alpine* is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-21-2008, 06:51 PM   #16
TimH
Symptoms of 135i denial..
 
Drives: 2005 120i Sydney Blue
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Sydney

Posts: 69
iTrader: (0)

I spent a bit of time trying to find the special socket to remove the oil filter for my N46B20. The dealership can't sell me one.

I think it is 86mm, 16 point. Are they easily available locally?

Have heard they are the same as some Volvos or other euros
TimH is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-21-2008, 07:07 PM   #17
amk2912
Lieutenant Colonel
 
amk2912's Avatar
 
Drives: '10 X5 40d & '12 F10 520d
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Perth

Posts: 1,663
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineM3E92 View Post
Thanks IBSC

As an owner of an M I am "re considering" my planned servicing schedule (wait till the indicator tells me) as a result of your informative commentary.

With the Corporate BMW programme, there is a 2 year free service deal, I will approach the locals and see how they feel about a more (heaps more frequent) oil /filter replacement.

Again thanks :thumbup:

oh yeh, I might also have a re think about the 135 as well!
As a potential M3 sedan purchaser next year I'd be curious to know what the service intervals are - bearing in mind that it won't do any track stuff and will spend nearly 100% of it's time doing work and school runs.

The hardest part will be giving up my 135i!
__________________
2012 BMW F10 520d M-Sport
2010 BMW E70 X5 xdrive40d

amk2912 is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-22-2008, 01:18 AM   #18
Alpine*
Brigadier General
 
Alpine*'s Avatar
 
Drives: CLK63 Black
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Australia

Posts: 3,287
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by amk2912 View Post
As a potential M3 sedan purchaser next year I'd be curious to know what the service intervals are - bearing in mind that it won't do any track stuff and will spend nearly 100% of it's time doing work and school runs.

The hardest part will be giving up my 135i!
Hi amk, well it is like all 3 series cars, basically when it tells you, in theory 25k intervals. I suggest the harder it is flogged it is possible that that may be reduced, only guessing about this though.

I don't track mine either, only the occasional flog in suburbia (my bad).

"The hardest part will be giving up my 135i!" then keep it too :biggrin:, it's only money!
Alpine* is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-22-2008, 02:38 AM   #19
Yep 135
Lieutenant
 
Yep 135's Avatar
 
Drives: BMW 135 manual
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canberra

Posts: 591
iTrader: (0)

Mine has 12500k's on the clock and it tells me its another 14000k's till service, I might take the advice and change the oil and filter at about 1000 odd k's from now.
Thanks for the info.
Yep 135 is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      11-22-2008, 07:50 AM   #20
IBSC
New Member
 
Drives:
Join Date: Nov 2008

Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)

TimH, I have oil filter tools if you need one. $30.00 plus $7.70 for an Express post bag or $5.50 for a snail mail bag. Take your pick of new cast aluminium non-genuine or used genuine BMW Cartool cast aluminium.

If you want email me and I can shoot one over.


WDS Wiring Diagram Sys
__________________
Darren Mitchell
Independent BMW Service Centre
2/5 Hydro Rise, Bibra Lake
Western Australia, 6163, Australia
Telephone: 0404 628 738
International: +61 404 628 738

service@independentbmwservicecentre.com
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Current Drives:
1989 BMW ETURDY 318i M40 - Bog Stock Standard
2008 Honda Civic Sport (Missus)
Waiting On:
Lotto win

PLEASE TRY TO REMEMBER, WE DONT MAKE THEM AND WE DONT BREAK THEM, WE JUST FIX THEM :iono:
IBSC is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      11-23-2008, 05:58 PM   #21
beemer
force fed Member
 
beemer's Avatar
 
Drives: BSM 1M
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: sydney

Posts: 1,002
iTrader: (0)

thanks IBSC and TimMc i think i will do the oil change myself at about 12k then let bmw do the 25k oil change.
beemer is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
      11-23-2008, 09:28 PM   #22
TimMc
Lieutenant Colonel
 
TimMc's Avatar
 
Drives: 135i SCT N54
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Posts: 1,848
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMc View Post
There's a few threads about this on the main forum. Doesn't look too hard. The main problem looks to be stopping the oil from squirting sideways and missing your oil pan. I'll give it a go in a few thousand Ks. Just have to track down the right oil (AGIP or whatever).

The local Brisbane dealer uses a Shell synthetic oil 0W-30 or something (I've got the spec written down somewhere...). It's not the Shell Helix Ultra you buy off the shelf at K-Mart so I'll have to find a source for this or the Agip.
"Shell Helix Ultra AB Fully Synthetic 0W-30" is what the Brisbane BMW sevice guy said they use. Thet don't sell it though apparently. I guess they'd only sell the BMW packaged stuff...
__________________
Driving - Man 135 (LeMans/Black). BMW Perf SW & SSK. Quaife LSD, KW V2s, Ground Control camber plates, M3 front Control Arms & SB, Helix IC, AR DPs, PROcede V5, ER CP, Forge DVs, BMS OCC, Setrab OC, P3 Gauge.
Riding - ZX14R Kwaka, Avanti Aggressor, Malvern Star Equipe, Mini Mal.
Proudly from the Shire.
TimMc is offline   Australia
0
Reply With Quote
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:11 PM.




1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST