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      06-27-2015, 10:08 PM   #1
Blacksport
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Stage 3 manifold installed

Finished the stage 3 manifold install...fairly easy, and my left arm isn't all scratched up like it was with the headers, LOL.

This has been well covered by St|g and others, with great tips and photos. Just a few of my tips:

You can label all the connections as St|g did, but all the electrical plugs are unique except the oxygen sensors on top of the engine...make sure you mark the gray and black connectors; don't know if they're unique, but I didn't take the chance. The DISA connectors are exactly the same (stupid, BMW) but one is longer than the other, so you won't mess them up. I left those unplugged until the re-flash.

Don't disconnect the throttle body connector; I did and the wires didn't come out, just the cap came off...I didn't want to mess with it, so I snapped it back. Just tie the TB out of the way.

The 2 or 3 crankcase breather connectors are quite a bitch, so here's a trick: stick 2 small flat screwdrivers in the lock ring where the catches are, ease them in gently and whamo! the fitting pops right off...sweet.

Taking the car up to Eurowerkes on Monday, he has an AA download station. Well, I guess we'll see if all this money spent turns into horsepressure...stay tuned.
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'13 128i 6sp, 06 Hemi Durango, '14 H-D V-Rod Muscle Gone But Not Forgotten: 74 Z28, 77 Datsun 280Z (1st 5sp in US), 92 Nissan 300ZTT, 94 MB SL600 V12, 01 M Roadster, 06 Dodge Viper SRT10, 66 Yamaha TwinJet 100, 70 Suzuki X6 Hustler Race: FP Spitfire SCCA, Merlyn FF SCCA, Mazda RX7 IMSA GTU, Yamaha FZR 400 AMA. Building: '33/34 Ford roadster, crate Ford racing 427, 535hp, Tremac 6 sp., Strange alum 9" housing, 4.11 gears

Last edited by Blacksport; 06-28-2015 at 12:24 PM.
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      06-28-2015, 02:50 AM   #2
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HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT SHIZZZZ good sir, where did you get the manifold? and off what vehicle?

I pretty much gave up since these are tough to come by LOL
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      06-28-2015, 09:35 AM   #3
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Bought all new parts from ECS Tuning...the whole kit is like $1250.

Really only wanted to use new parts...
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'13 128i 6sp, 06 Hemi Durango, '14 H-D V-Rod Muscle Gone But Not Forgotten: 74 Z28, 77 Datsun 280Z (1st 5sp in US), 92 Nissan 300ZTT, 94 MB SL600 V12, 01 M Roadster, 06 Dodge Viper SRT10, 66 Yamaha TwinJet 100, 70 Suzuki X6 Hustler Race: FP Spitfire SCCA, Merlyn FF SCCA, Mazda RX7 IMSA GTU, Yamaha FZR 400 AMA. Building: '33/34 Ford roadster, crate Ford racing 427, 535hp, Tremac 6 sp., Strange alum 9" housing, 4.11 gears
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      06-28-2015, 01:30 PM   #4
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First headers, now manifold? Must be a good week!

You can plug the valves in, if you want. More power low/top-end. Slight loss in midrange, and you'll notice the nasty dips when the valves switch. It's still something.
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      06-28-2015, 01:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dafttt View Post
First headers, now manifold? Must be a good week!
Well, I wanted to get it done so I can get back working on the hot rod.

Some people like to list all their mods...since I'm basically done (except maybe having the front seats redone in perforated leather), I thought I'd list mine, even though nobody asked...

18" Enkie Lusso wheels with Continental Extreme Contact non-runflat tires, BMW Performance 6-piston front BBK, Eibach street performance coil-over kit but using Bilstein rear shocks, AA headers, Stage 3 intake, K&N with screen removed, small intake scoops in the grills, Borla straight-thru stainless muffler, fake Chinese Remus dual tips, auto dimming rear view mirror with compass, LCI blackline taillights, Spyder headlights with Hella 100w bulbs in the projectors and 55w Hella bulbs in the high beams.

Forgot these: Whiteline subframe inserts, and ECS alloy rear trailing arms (replaces stock sheet metal arms)

Down the road, I might add an aluminum flywheel with spring-hub clutch, and titanium lug bolts if I can find a deal on them.
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      06-28-2015, 02:56 PM   #6
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That's a good list. Solid car, seems complete.

The only thing that stands out to me is the LW flywheel. Just haven't heard good news about them. Apparently, OEM is king.
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      07-03-2015, 05:00 PM   #7
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Just picked the car up from the re-flash...it pulls very strong now from about 3800rpm to the redline...very satisfying. It was a lot of money but definitely worth it. I'd estimate the power to be around 265 at the flywheel now, and with coil-overs, BMW BBK, and 18" wheels with Continental's best rubber, this has turned into a very sweet little machine.

I'm surprised BMW didn't offer a "high-output" 128i...maybe call it a 130i. With M suspension, 135 brakes, better headers, and the stage 3 intake, they could have sold this option for around 4 grand. I bet a lot of 135 owners would have opted for this, instead paying around 9 grand extra for a 135.
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      07-04-2015, 06:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksport View Post
Just picked the car up from the re-flash...it pulls very strong now from about 3800rpm to the redline...very satisfying. It was a lot of money but definitely worth it. I'd estimate the power to be around 265 at the flywheel now, and with coil-overs, BMW BBK, and 18" wheels with Continental's best rubber, this has turned into a very sweet little machine.

I'm surprised BMW didn't offer a "high-output" 128i...maybe call it a 130i. With M suspension, 135 brakes, better headers, and the stage 3 intake, they could have sold this option for around 4 grand. I bet a lot of 135 owners would have opted for this, instead paying around 9 grand extra for a 135.
A 130i coupe would have been the sweet spot, IMO. There was a hatch sold in Europe with basically the spec you describe (no BBK). Hearing was similar to our 1er but with a slightly more aggressive final drive (3.46), which makes me think about regearing when I do my LSD.

I suspect the decision not to offer a coupe in 130i trim had to do with not wanting to cannibalize sales, and there realistically probably wasn't room for a third model in the North American lineup. Although a limited run, similar to the 135is, would've been really something.
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      07-04-2015, 11:10 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
A 130i coupe would have been the sweet spot, IMO. There was a hatch sold in Europe with basically the spec you describe (no BBK). Hearing was similar to our 1er but with a slightly more aggressive final drive (3.46), which makes me think about regearing when I do my LSD.

I suspect the decision not to offer a coupe in 130i trim had to do with not wanting to cannibalize sales, and there realistically probably wasn't room for a third model in the North American lineup. Although a limited run, similar to the 135is, would've been really something.
A 128is would have been an amazing car...
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      07-10-2015, 11:52 PM   #10
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Gotta be more than 265hp. Get a dyno.
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      07-11-2015, 08:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAxiom View Post
Gotta be more than 265hp. Get a dyno.
I don't know, you may be right...

Ran out west to the Harley dealer yesterday on I595, was running 90 with little bursts to 100...wow, with the air on in 6th, I can't believe how strong it pulls...

I don't really care what the number is, I just love this motor now.
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      07-11-2015, 09:32 AM   #12
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I'm at about 235whp before headers, I just can't wait. The toque gain has me really excited.
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      09-06-2015, 11:00 AM   #13
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Here's an update on the Stage 3 intake and AA header upgrade I did:

First off, I'm officially calling this a fast car now...as you approach 4000rpm, it starts to pull hard and gets stronger up to the redline...it wants to keep revving but I don't let it...it reminds me of my S54 M Roadster...almost. Of course, the chassis is much better.

AA apparently wants you to use the post O2 sensors, but don't...get some bung plugs to close off the holes and un-plug them from the connectors (these are the lower post-cat O2 sensors, not the ones that plug in up top). These have been coded off by AA's software upgrade, but the heaters still go on, and you don't want that. Also, the engine idles much better with these removed. You will get a CEL as the computer is reporting the heater problem. AA can re-flash these to make the CEL disappear.

Here's another option: get the P3 Cars digital gauge ($400) that plugs into the OBD connector and mounts in the left A/C vent...this thing is very cool. Now you can monitor a whole bunch of stuff: RPM, coolant temp, vehicle speed, blah, blah...PLUS you can monitor (and reset) any CEL's that show up. Take your gauge panel out, open it up, and carefully lift up the warning panel cover; then cover the CEL slot with some A/C foil tape...now say good bye to the annoying CEL light because you're now monitoring them with you P3 digital panel...it's sweet...and since the 128 has no gauges, you can now keep your eye on everything.
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      09-06-2015, 12:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksport View Post
Here's an update on the Stage 3 intake and AA header upgrade I did:

First off, I'm officially calling this a fast car now...as you approach 4000rpm, it starts to pull hard and gets stronger up to the redline...it wants to keep revving but I don't let it...it reminds me of my S54 M Roadster...almost. Of course, the chassis is much better.

AA apparently wants you to use the post O2 sensors, but don't...get some bung plugs to close off the holes and un-plug them from the connectors (these are the lower post-cat O2 sensors, not the ones that plug in up top). These have been coded off by AA's software upgrade, but the heaters still go on, and you don't want that. Also, the engine idles much better with these removed. You will get a CEL as the computer is reporting the heater problem. AA can re-flash these to make the CEL disappear.

Here's another option: get the P3 Cars digital gauge ($400) that plugs into the OBD connector and mounts in the left A/C vent...this thing is very cool. Now you can monitor a whole bunch of stuff: RPM, coolant temp, vehicle speed, blah, blah...PLUS you can monitor (and reset) any CEL's that show up. Take your gauge panel out, open it up, and carefully lift up the warning panel cover; then cover the CEL slot with some A/C foil tape...now say good bye to the annoying CEL light because you're now monitoring them with you P3 digital panel...it's sweet...and since the 128 has no gauges, you can now keep your eye on everything.
I've been thinking about one of those, the P3 should also tell you what the estimated power output is....?


And you have a M Roadster? I had 2 Z3s with a M52tu, I was on Bimmerforums a lot, were you?
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      09-06-2015, 01:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacksport View Post
AA apparently wants you to use the post O2 sensors, but don't...get some bung plugs to close off the holes and un-plug them from the connectors (these are the lower post-cat O2 sensors, not the ones that plug in up top). These have been coded off by AA's software upgrade, but the heaters still go on, and you don't want that. Also, the engine idles much better with these removed.
Would the steps above have the same effect as "turning off cold start" in this post http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=663?
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      11-17-2016, 07:30 PM   #16
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"Don't disconnect the throttle body connector; I did and the wires didn't come out, just the cap came off...I didn't want to mess with it, so I snapped it back. Just tie the TB out of the way."

Blackstone, I am not sure if I understand this. Doesn't the wiring have to come off of the intake sensor (?) to be transferred to the 3-stage manifold? I'm looking to do this project and want to be as prepared as possible. I also read Stig's write-up.
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      11-18-2016, 08:39 AM   #17
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good write up. I also just installed my 3 stage and my hand took a beating geting the two torx bolts out to release the manifold from the harness. I have to send my dme in and get it flashed after i install the headers. I cant wait to get this thing rolling with more gusto

Found my intake on fleabay from an n51(yes they are the same part #s)
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      11-29-2016, 03:11 PM   #18
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Completed the intake manifold swap yesterday. Now I understand about not disconnecting the harness from the throttle body and just moving the unit to the side!

Not really a difficult DIY as most have said. A few dropped bolts necessitating dropping the plastic pans to retrieve said fasteners.

Seems like the traction control light is flashing a bit more under similar driving situations, or maybe because it is a bit wet and colder, or all of the above!
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      11-29-2016, 06:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAMSport View Post
Completed the intake manifold swap yesterday. Now I understand about not disconnecting the harness from the throttle body and just moving the unit to the side!

Not really a difficult DIY as most have said. A few dropped bolts necessitating dropping the plastic pans to retrieve said fasteners.

Seems like the traction control light is flashing a bit more under similar driving situations, or maybe because it is a bit wet and colder, or all of the above!
Nice! Did you get a tune as well or just the manifold for now? Need to really get my ass in gear and start searching for a good used unit, so I can get it done in the spring.
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      11-29-2016, 07:55 PM   #20
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Did this a few weeks ago along with quite a bit of BMW P upgrades the last few months...and I must say the car is a little beast...not crazy turbo torque but just flat out fun in so many ways. Should've been like this day 1. Oh well, better late than never...
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      11-29-2016, 11:39 PM   #21
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I haven't opted for a tune yet, so it's only the manifold so far. I think there is a noticeable but not giant bump in torque in the lower rpm range. I don't really notice the torque drop at 4200 rpms which would go away with a tune, though. That is a little bit of a nice surprise.

I had posted asking about the preferred brand of tune in a separate thread, but few replies have been added. It seems each of the common brands have at least one issue with the software being flashed, and I really don't want to deal with down time on my DD. I might just go to TMS (about 40 minutes away) and let them do it. I'm confused as AA lists them as an installer (as well as for the superchargers), but the rep at TMS told me they have their own tune.

How many people have ever reinstalled the factory tune? Wondering how important a factor that is, but I do have another 8+ months of warranty remaining. That would require getting some type of software cable to link up my laptop to the car, but I'm not a fan of having to do some extra work so that AA's system won't be viewed as a security threat with Windows 10.
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      11-30-2016, 01:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAMSport View Post
I haven't opted for a tune yet, so it's only the manifold so far. I think there is a noticeable but not giant bump in torque in the lower rpm range. I don't really notice the torque drop at 4200 rpms which would go away with a tune, though. That is a little bit of a nice surprise.

I had posted asking about the preferred brand of tune in a separate thread, but few replies have been added. It seems each of the common brands have at least one issue with the software being flashed, and I really don't want to deal with down time on my DD. I might just go to TMS (about 40 minutes away) and let them do it. I'm confused as AA lists them as an installer (as well as for the superchargers), but the rep at TMS told me they have their own tune.

How many people have ever reinstalled the factory tune? Wondering how important a factor that is, but I do have another 8+ months of warranty remaining. That would require getting some type of software cable to link up my laptop to the car, but I'm not a fan of having to do some extra work so that AA's system won't be viewed as a security threat with Windows 10.
BPC.
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