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      01-29-2013, 09:58 AM   #45
TheRuss
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Sorry to ressurect an old thread, but I'm about to replace pads all round on my 135i and was wondering what the general consensus was regarding which bolts to remove to get the front caliper off? The big 10mm bolts, or the ones that go through the mounting bracket? Also, is Locktite necessary?

Also, I'm intending to just change pads and not the rotors, so what should I be doing after to "bed in" the pads?

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      03-14-2013, 11:31 AM   #46
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OK, so I ended up doing this a few weeks ago and found that it's much easier to remove the caliper bracket than remove the caliper from the bracket. I also just half undid one pin per caliper to get the new pads in.

One thing that I'm now considering is whether I should've greased anything in there? I've been reading that it's a bad idea to use copper slip on the backs of the pads because it can cause the piston seals to swell, but should I have greased the notches in the caliper where the pads slide back and forth? Or is it best to avoid grease near the brakes altogether?

Thanks in advance.
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      02-02-2014, 05:43 PM   #47
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edit: figured it out.
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Last edited by Ginger_Extract; 02-02-2014 at 07:36 PM.
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      04-23-2014, 12:06 PM   #48
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Just for future DIYers, I found this youtube exceptionally helpful:


Also, regarding the 10mm hex bolts and torque specs, I'm not sure over-tightening is even possible. I tightened mine until the caliper was flush with the bracket. At that point, they can't turn any further and they aren't any harder to loosen than they were the first time I did it. There is consistent resistance the entire time they are going in, and then there is significant resistance (they won't turn anymore). Stop at that point...
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      04-24-2014, 01:54 PM   #49
Isdaako
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What a great video. Informative and packed with humor!

Thanks for the link.
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      05-07-2014, 10:58 PM   #50
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Just bought some ferodo 2500s. The rear pads do not have the mounting tabs that the stock pads came with. Can they be transferred?
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      01-10-2015, 03:07 PM   #51
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Resurrecting an old thread. Just did my brakes, replacing stock pads with PosiQuiet. Very good to have this thread, many thanks to all who have contributed. A few notes while this is fresh in my mind:

[*] Detach the front calipers at the rear (two bolts), where the bracket affixes to the strut, and not at the top at the hex bolts. I replaced the bolts.

[*] Loosen only one of the front caliper guide bolts about half-way to get the front pads out.

[*] Wear a mask or run the car through a vigorous car wash before replacing stock pads. I came inside to clean up and blew my nose and all kinds of black gunk came out. Clear my throat and spit that out, also black. Eee gad, my lungs didn't need this (I should have known better).

[*] My stock (very recently replaced by my selling dealer to CPO the car) rear pads included a shim (in addition to the pad backing plate), the front did not. I used those shims with the new pads too, not sure what they accomplish.

[*] Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey :O/

[*] Esco 10498, best jack stands I've ever owned. Hold the corner of the car with one, rest the front caliper on the other.

[*] Total time, about three hours

Last edited by mr.fabulous; 01-10-2015 at 08:30 PM.
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