BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      12-19-2009, 07:42 PM   #67
axoid
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Bill [92 Camaro RS (Autocross ESP / Trackrat) | 09 BMW 128i Sport Package]
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      12-19-2009, 09:09 PM   #68
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Ah ha! Looks great man. Thanks for the pics.
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      12-22-2009, 10:37 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john08135i View Post
Here is it maiden voyage to the boat ramp
nice 1100 DI Got a 01 myself still going strong
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      12-23-2009, 01:01 PM   #70
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Anyone have a link to the guy that sells the small trailers designed for track junkies? They usually have a bar for a spare wheel/tire setup, a lockable box for tools, and sometimes a cage area for fuel canisters.
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      01-24-2010, 10:13 PM   #71
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Anyone having issues with the CURT hitch hitting the exhaust? we've trimmed the bracket that holds the exhaust but still on BIG bumps it hits occasionally...
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      01-25-2010, 09:31 AM   #72
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Quote:
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Anyone having issues with the CURT hitch hitting the exhaust? we've trimmed the bracket that holds the exhaust but still on BIG bumps it hits occasionally...
Yes mine rattles like crazy when the car is cold.
One day when i have time i will try and make some adjustments to stop it.
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      02-01-2010, 02:45 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john08135i View Post
Yes mine rattles like crazy when the car is cold.
One day when i have time i will try and make some adjustments to stop it.
Same for me. But mine's a race car, so I'll leave it until until I need to remove the rear bumper again for something else.
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      02-01-2010, 03:50 PM   #74
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You think the maker, curt, would address this. Pretty poor design
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      02-01-2010, 11:19 PM   #75
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cant buy this anymore via the link?
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      02-02-2010, 11:29 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris View Post
You think the maker, curt, would address this. Pretty poor design
I saw the contact when I was installing it and could have shaved some material off the muffler hanger at the time, but I was rushed for time. Or just filing a groove in the hitch tube would be pretty easy as well.

If for any racing reasons, I need to do some rear bumper body work, I'll address it.
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      12-03-2010, 06:00 PM   #77
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Excellent! Gotta get a load of tools from NY to Seattle & I'd rather drive the '06 330i than the '94 Dakota - I think this might work.
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      01-29-2011, 04:29 PM   #78
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Can someone tell me where all the tabs are located? Are they just around the tail lights and wheel well?

It seems important to know where you are inserting the screwdriver to release the tab.

Thanks,
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      03-23-2011, 02:22 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastone53 View Post
Can someone tell me where all the tabs are located? Are they just around the tail lights and wheel well?

It seems important to know where you are inserting the screwdriver to release the tab.

Thanks,

maybe this will help...

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...128+rear+cover

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      04-11-2011, 03:46 PM   #80
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So I installed the trailer hitch and it seems like the exhaust (stock) hits the hitch and then sends the vibrations (between 1000 rpm and 1700 rpm) throughout the entire body... it is pretty annoying and I will have to figure out a way to prevent this...


Last edited by igzekyativ; 04-11-2011 at 04:08 PM.
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      04-11-2011, 11:18 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igzekyativ View Post
So I installed the trailer hitch and it seems like the exhaust (stock) hits the hitch and then sends the vibrations (between 1000 rpm and 1700 rpm) throughout the entire body... it is pretty annoying and I will have to figure out a way to prevent this...

We tried to make a little space (cut a notch in the muffler bracket) and while it got rid of the low rpm vibration, it made it so that it banged into it from road vibration and was worse. So I would try to mount some type of padding material on the trailer hitch.
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      04-12-2011, 11:14 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottn2retro View Post
We tried to make a little space (cut a notch in the muffler bracket) and while it got rid of the low rpm vibration, it made it so that it banged into it from road vibration and was worse. So I would try to mount some type of padding material on the trailer hitch.
I should get the free tempur-pedic information kit

http://www.tempurpedic.com/our-compa...mation-kit.asp
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      04-13-2011, 10:07 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igzekyativ View Post
I should get the free tempur-pedic information kit

http://www.tempurpedic.com/our-compa...mation-kit.asp
Luckily, when we switched to the Borla muffler, it had a different bracket that is nowhere near the trailer hitch.
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      04-14-2011, 02:06 AM   #84
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[quote=maxnix;9365651][quote=doa;8434924]Excellent! Gotta get a load of tools from NY to Seattle
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      04-15-2011, 08:36 AM   #85
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This comment goes back to a comment on page 2 but for tiedowns, D rings work better than eye-bolts. They do not stick out and can probably take more force. I picked some up cheap from Harbor Freight that work fine. You have to drill two holes to mount them but then you also have the shear strength of two bolts holding them on. D rings are a ring that looks like the letter D with a flat strap that holds it to the trailer that you bolt at each end. I thought I might hear them rattlling but I haven't. They will easily take the force of small ratcheting tie-downs.

Jim
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      04-19-2011, 02:29 PM   #86
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This is why I installed the hitch.. It's almost MTB season! and you shouldn't ruin the body lines with a roof rack..










Last edited by igzekyativ; 04-20-2011 at 10:22 AM.
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      06-20-2011, 06:11 AM   #87
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Nice! I'm interested in doing a rear bike-rack like that for my mtb's as well. I do have structural concerns, though:

1. A local trailer hitch retailer mentioned that rear bike racks actually impose more stress on the rear of the car through it's moment-arm than a trailer. This is because trailers have wheels that take some of the load off the hitch. Can any of you advise if you have seen evidence of damage or stress on the mounting points or car body due to this hitch?

2. The e-Trailer site says "All non-trailer loads - bike racks, cargo carriers and so forth - should be supported with stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support these loads will void your hitch warranty from Curt." (http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitc...eid=2009300528)

Do any of you use these straps? I can't find them on the etrailer site and am wondering how they fix to the rear of the car. If I have to use straps against the bodywork, it would negate the reason I'd install a hitch like this and would likely lean towards something like the Saris racks (http://www.saris.com/bike-racks/vehi...unk-racks.html)...
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      06-20-2011, 08:00 AM   #88
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So are these being installed between the chassi and the bumper; or like the instructions seem to state, on top of the bumper mount? Could that be why the exhaust is hitting the hitch mount?

It states in the directions "4. Raise the hitch into position over the (4) bumper beam mount studs between the trunk panel and the bumper beam, as shown. Secure the hitch using a 12mm hex nut and a 1/2" lock washer on each stud.
NOTE: Do not sandwich hitch between bumper beam and vehicle frame.(See photo "SIDE PLATE
INSTALLED" above)"
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