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      01-25-2018, 09:46 PM   #1
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Drives: Silver 135 DCT
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Williamsport, PA

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2012 BMW 135i  [0.00]
Walboro 267 450lph DIY

With the Walboro 267 you will be able to run as much e85 as the Fuelit! Stage 2 kit . The total cost for everything was around 80 bucks with everything included.

There are two models of this Walboro, the 267 and the 274. The 274 is a different design and offers a higher psi than the 267. You can find the DIY for that model here: I also stole some pictures from this thread because I either forgot to take them or his were better.

Stuff needed:
  • Walboro:
  • 5/16 Brass Barbed Connector
  • #4 hose clamp
  • 16 Gauge shrink wrap
  • A junk ball point pen
  • Soldering Iron
  • Wire Strippers
  • Flathead Screwdriver
  • Box Cutter
  • Channel Locks
  • Linesman Pliers
  • 10mm Socket
  • Hammer
  • Heat Gun

This was the kit in the link and everything it came with.

Step 1: Disconnect pump fuses and start car.
This step you will need to remove fuses 58 and 70 and running the car dry. This is to depressurize the fuel system.
Fuse 58

Fuse 70

Step 2: Remove pump cover
Use the 10mm socket and remove the 4 bolts. Set bolts aside.

Step 3: Remove pump hat connections.
If yours is dirty I suggest vacuuming the dirty so it doesn't fall in the tank. It's just dusty so it should vacuum up easily. Removing the electrical connections is just like any other electrical connector on the car. Pinch the sides and lift up. For the fuel, there is a little rectangle button you need to push. Push it and pull up. Use the flathead screw driver against the button if they are being stubborn.

Here is how dirty mine was.

Step 4: Remove lock ring.
Mine was on there pretty good. I used the 10mm socket with an extension and used a hammer to beat it loose. To get it out I slipped it to the right and then out. It seems the N55 has an extra hose compared to the N54. That hose will get in your way for most of the install.

Step 5: Remove the Top Hat
It's pretty easy. The hat should pop up since it's spring loaded. If it does not, use the the flathead to pry it up.

Step 6: Disconnect pump lines.
There are 4 lines and two of them are similar to the ones on top of the hat. The other 2 return lines just snap off.

I took this picture from the other thread.

Step 7: Remove bucket assembly.
Once all the lines are removed, lift everything up and tilt it towards you so the float makes it out. The hat is tethered to the bucket with a black plastic line. Wash the assembly with water once it's out.

Step 8: Remove first black plastic layer.
Use your flathead and a heat gun to break the glued bits on the layer. It's around the "feet" of the black plastic. Not really sure how to describe it.

Step 9: Remove pump bracket.
Same process as above but with a box cutter.

Both of these pictures were taken from the other thread.

Here is the whole assembly taken apart.

And the new pump and mat next to the old one. In hind-sight I could probably reuse the old gas mat instead of the new one. If someone does that and it works let me know and I'll change it in this DIY.

Step 10: Splice on the old connector
I really wish I could have taken a picture of this. For this kit you will need to reuse the connector on the old pump and attach it to the new pump. It is very important you do not make the splices next to each other. If the shrink tube decays it might arc.

Remove the jacket on the butt connectors and use them for the splice. The shrink tube will be a tight fit over the crimps.

Step 11: Attach supplied fuel line.
Use a hose clamp to mount the black flue line to the pump. Insert the barbed connector on the other end and secure with hose clamp.

Step 12: Reassemble
Insert the new pump in the old bracket. Cut the little loops to fit the new pump. Use some little screws to secure the bracket in the bucket.

Taken from the other thread.

Once the bracket is secured, fit the top plastic layer on the bucket. Take the soldering iron and plastic weld the black plastic and the pump plastic together. Use your junk ball point pen for extra plastic.

This was my finished product before the welding.

Step 13: Remove main fuel line connector
This was a little tricky. After fighting with the one-use clamps I took a pair of channel locks and squeezed just above the clamp in the picture. I took a pair of linemans and pulled on the plug. After a few attempts it popped off.

Step 14: Install your retrofitted pump assembly
Insert the can first the opposite how you removed it. Make all of your connections before you put the hat on. Insert the brass connector on the line from the previous step. The order does not matter for the two return lines that snap on the bucket.

Step 15: Finishing touches
Insert top hat, tighten lock ring, connect the top hat's electrical and gas plugs and don't forget the fuses. Insert your car key and push the Engine Start button once for the pump to prime. Start car after.

There you have it. Your very own Stage 2 E85 pump on the cheap. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I will run some logs later in the week to see how well it works and post back.
TiAg n55 DCT - JB4 ISO w/ Backend - BMS Intake - VSRF Charge Pipe - Wagner Tuning Performance II Intercooler - Kittyless DP - Whiteline Inserts - 1M Strut Bar - Bilstein B14 - ECS Two piece front rotors - BMWP rear rotors
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      02-07-2018, 04:44 AM   #2
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Drives: 2009 135i FBO
Join Date: May 2017
Location: ACT

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Nice work I hope my tread was somewhat useful! Interested to know what you did with the venture? Did you just leave the little rubber valve in and take the rest off?
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