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      11-13-2009, 12:59 AM   #1
BerkTechnology
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DIY - custom brake ducts for under $100

This is a quick DIY for those of you who want to make a real set of brake ducts.

Prerequisites are:

A) You have at least two full days of free time.
B) You can fabricate basic things out of metal
C) Welding skills
D) You track your car on a regular basis. If you are a street guy then the OEM brake ducts (if you could call them that) are working fine for you.

Materials needed:
Silicone or nomex ducting 2.5" or 2" will work fine.
scrap 20 gauge sheet metal
scrap 16 gauge sheet metal
scrap 2.5" or 2" steel tubing
hose clamps
lots of zip ties

1. Remove caliper and rotor. The rotor is held in with a large philip screw. If you didn't know that's the one shaped like a "plus" sign then stop now.
2. Remove the OEM dust shield. It's bolted in with a few bolts.
3. Remove inner splash guard.
4. Remove OEM plastic ducting completely on driver side.
5. Partially remove plastic ducting on passenger side. You'll need to keep the ducting for the OEM oil cooler in tact. We don't want to mess with that as BMW did a good job in the air ducting to that little cooler. They didn't do such a great job in sizing that cooler though.
6. Fabricate backing plates using the 16 gauge steel as your base. Drill a hole and place your inlet hose as close to the center of the rotor as possible.
7. Fabricate a new mounting plate for the air inlet at the front bumper. Use the OEM mounting tabs that held in the OEM brake ducting to hold your new plate in place.
8. Route the hose as needed to clear all of the suspension pieces. Make sure to turn the wheels from full lock both ways to make sure you don't have any binding going on.

Your end result will look something like this.





The Rotora 355mm BBK is optional!


Have fun! PM me if you guys have any questions. Always here to help the DIY guys out!
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      11-22-2009, 11:56 AM   #2
Jettafanatic
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For those with no welding skills / just plain lazy....



You can use this instead and modify / rivet it to the backing plate / intake plate (a little more expensive though)

Ora cheaper / no weld ( still rivet ) way:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...uctflanges.php

( I used these on my ducts on a racing jetta I had... )

Nice job Guys!
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      01-15-2010, 10:35 AM   #3
Ruffan
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Has anyone done something like the suggestion above from Jettafanatic?
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      04-30-2010, 12:54 PM   #4
Alow
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Berk,

I'm no expert, but I have never seen the 180 degrees turn on the hose the way you guys have it. Is there way to measure the air flow? Or to know how effective it is going to be? I am sure its working for you, but wondering how I can make sure mine is efficient once I finish routing it.
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      05-01-2010, 03:22 PM   #5
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ooo im interested in this
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      05-12-2010, 09:57 AM   #6
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Cool idea at all
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      05-12-2010, 03:04 PM   #7
Elsabor67
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I definetly like simplicity. That looks very simple and effective.
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      04-05-2011, 11:39 AM   #8
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I didnt know OEM dust shields are removable. Did anyone try to remove them only without doing the whole duct thing. I know its not going to be nearly as effective but i would think by removing them more air will travel around rotors and they will cool down better than with dust shields that block air. What do you guys think?
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      04-28-2011, 04:27 PM   #9
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Well, looks like dust shields are necessary to protect weel bearings from an excessive heat
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      05-03-2011, 07:07 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 09 AND135I 11 View Post
Well, looks like dust shields are necessary to protect weel bearings from an excessive heat
Any details into this?
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      05-08-2011, 04:08 AM   #11
dsm 135i
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Does anyone know if these fit like they say?

http://store.bimmerworld.com/carbon-...tes-p1412.aspx
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