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      06-07-2010, 12:26 AM   #1
MikeNeo
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Break-In period

I have my 135i 6mt on order and should be here in about two weeks or so. I want this car to last me a long time, but i am not sure of the correct way of breaking it in. Is there a certain speed or rpm that I should not reach during break-in, or should I just drive slowly in general during break-in. One of my friends told me that if I break it in by driving aggressively it will reward me by turning out more aggressive, is this true?
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      06-07-2010, 01:08 AM   #2
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There are arguments for both styles of break-in. Your car's manual will describe the more conservative style. Use the search function - there are plenty of posts on the topic.
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      06-07-2010, 12:34 PM   #3
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How have you broken in your other cars? You can follow the manual which is most likely the best. You can also drive it easy for the forst 300 miles, and then start driving a bit more agressively with some WOTs as long as you are moving. If you don't plan to keep it past 4 years/50K miles, floor it out the foor of the dealership. Either way, you should be fine.
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      06-07-2010, 01:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeNeo View Post
One of my friends told me that if I break it in by driving aggressively it will reward me by turning out more aggressive, is this true?
While that may work for breaking in your friend's new girlfriend, I'd avoid it for your new BMW.

See TrackRat's post for good advice. The only thing I would add is to gradually increase your rev limit from 4,500 to redline over the period from 1,200 to about 1,800 miles. I've done this with 4 new Bimmers - they all ran smoothly, gave excellent gas mileage and none has ever burned any oil between changes.

Enjoy your new car!
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      06-07-2010, 01:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
NO, your friend is wrong as are most folks who have no clue to engine design, function and operation.

Read your new BMW OM and follow the break-in procedure and you'll be just fine. BMW backs your vehicle with a 50K mileage warranty if you use their prescribed break-in procedure because they have the most expertise on your engine, not some website jerk or well meaning forum participant who has no objective engine break-in test data to support their beliefs.

BMW puts their money where their mouth is. Engine break-in is quite simple. Drive the car normally for the first 600-1000 miles without excessive engine RPM (stay below 4500 RPM) or loads, (don't lug the engine or use WOT). Do not use WOT for the first 600 miles. Vary engine speed and throttle position frequently. Do not baby the engine, just drive it like a "normal" mature, respectful adult would drive.
I suppose you will change your oil every 15k and the transmission is good forever?
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      06-07-2010, 03:16 PM   #6
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thanks to everyone for their input
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Last edited by MikeNeo; 10-12-2011 at 10:24 PM.
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      06-07-2010, 03:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shodanusmc View Post
How have you broken in your other cars?
My only other car was an rx8, but it was rotary so it's a little different. I broke it in by not revving over 5k for the first thousand miles. Now I get like 15mpg at best when I am not driving aggressively. I am not sure if this is my fault or because it is a rotary. Hopefully I don't have that problem with this car.
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      06-07-2010, 03:26 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
Enjoy your new ride. You won't be able to wipe the smile off your face!
Thanks man, I hope that's the case.
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Last edited by MikeNeo; 10-12-2011 at 10:24 PM.
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      06-07-2010, 05:38 PM   #9
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While the aggressive run may be relevant for a fresh-built engine started up the first time (note the genesis of the most common online how-to for that method), it is not right for a built engine.

Even if not dyno tested, the engines are fired up either after building or in the car, and run in a bit to seat the rings.

I prefer varied speed, with none higher than 3/4 throttle and 55 MPH and 30-75% of max RPM for the first 1000 or so miles. I also like to do sime initial accelerations and then closed throttle coasting from a decent speed/rpm. This helps put a high level of vacuum in the system and helps seat the rings further.
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      06-07-2010, 08:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB135MDCT View Post
Idiot
Yet another feather merchant appears with the idiot word. Your parents have any kids that lived?

To the OP, do what the manual says to be safe. If you do not keep it for 4 years, drive it like you stole it as the engines are run in germany.
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      06-07-2010, 08:59 PM   #11
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It happens every time with this topic. Let's not beat a dead horse... again, with the arguments of this topic.
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      06-08-2010, 12:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
High revs and engine braking does NOT help seat the piston rings, it sucks oil out of the crankcase and into the combustion chamber which is not good for the engine.

Piston rings function on cylinder pressure, not the lack of pressure. By varying the throttle you vary the cylinder pressure which flexes the piston rings and causes them to seat in well to the cylinder. Without cylinder pressure the only seal of the rings is from radial tension. The minimal radial tension and minimal line contact of a new piston ring is why engine braking on a new engine can not prevent oil from being sicked up into the cylinder. Don't do this as it can cause detonation and does nothing good for the engine.

Just drive normal as the car maker suggest without babying or beating your new engine and you'll be just fine.
Sorry, but don't agree. Coasting and engine breaking is a part of normal driving, by not doing this you are babying the engine. Secondly, It's not just about engine, you need to break in the transmission as well, and this is where engine breaking is more critical.
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      06-08-2010, 12:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
Your warranty is in effect if you do. Unless YOU are paying for my warranty I'm following the car makers recommendations not forum advice. Millions of BMW owners follow BMW's recommendations every year all around the globe, with zero issues. What you chose to do is entirely up to you.

Changing the oil early is not the same as abusing your engine during break-in. One is preventive maintenance and the other damaging abuse, which can void your powertrain warranty. People go 15K on oil all the time without issue.
Long term, warranty is not in effect. 15k is unacceptable for long term. What is the grit and viscosity at 15k? Oil is cheap and your engine will last forever.

I know quite a few who go by BMW recommended intervals and they have nothing but problems. And those that change there oil sooner than later go hundreds of thousands of miles with not a puff of blue smoke. So please stop misleading the peonage.
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      06-08-2010, 12:56 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eleven11 View Post


It happens every time with this topic. Let's not beat a dead horse... again, with the arguments of this topic.
But, but, read what they are saying.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shodanusmc View Post
Yet another feather merchant appears with the idiot word. Your parents have any kids that lived?

To the OP, do what the manual says to be safe. If you do not keep it for 4 years, drive it like you stole it as the engines are run in germany.
IDIOT

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
Let's refrain from the personal attacks. It isn't wise to tell someone to floor it out the dealer's door, just because they are leasing or trading in a few years. By most accounts that would be considered ignorant advice. You can still do serious engine damage from abuse and that would not be covered by warranty.
I'm not as articulate as you are TrackRat, and you are to kind.
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      06-08-2010, 01:37 AM   #15
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Agree with most of what you are saying in your previous post, not all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
You can change your oil everyday if it makes you happy. It makes no difference to me. A $25 UOA will tell you if the oil is still serviceable and what contaminants are present at 15K or whatever OCI you desire. No guessing required.

Obviously when BMW is paying for engine damage for the first 50K or four years, if they thought 15K OCI's were an issue they'd change it to a lower mileage. People have used 18K OCI's in Europe for years without issue. I suspect BMW has a lot more statistics on this subject than you but if not please enlighten us.
Dude, BMW is in the business of selling autos. Statistically 15 or 18k is the correct answer for BMW short life to 50k ( in reality 100k) after that they can care less. They want you to buy a new one or rebuild your motor sooner than later. Name one preowned certified BMW with 100k miles, or even 50k. The more healthy BMWs out there, the less people will buy new ones. Again, my arguments are long term.

Last edited by JB135MDCT; 06-08-2010 at 01:29 PM.
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      06-08-2010, 11:42 AM   #16
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can everyone just point folks at the 1 million threads already discussing this topic?

OP, this topic and how often to change your oil I would say is the MOST FAQ on most car boards.. Please try that next time.

I am part of the crowd that respectfully disagrees that you need to baby your car from the beginning. I dont feel the need to retype the same thing over and over.. Again please read the other threads..

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=374630

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357588
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      06-08-2010, 03:39 PM   #17
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^ We need to have a long discussion over many shots of espresso. My fingers are going to fall off.

Grew up poor, have been fixing and working since I was little. Many 100k miles under my belt. Oil/filter change is 45 bucks, filter inspections, monitor mpg, All cheap insurance. Again, Can you explain why BMW delaships sell non-certfied preowned cars with <50k?

Never needed UOA!

However, I have evolved with the oil. Use to do 3k on Ford Ranger Pickup and up to 8k HWY on e36 328is. With the turbo I say about 5-7k.

Being more stringent than manufacturers recommendation is a good thing.

Again, when are you going to change your transmission oil? If you have a slush or DCT, your BMW recomended intervals are what? Forever?
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      06-08-2010, 06:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
BTW, if I was concerned about my tranny oil I'd send a sample to the lab for testing. Then I wouldn't have to guess if it was still good or needed to be changed, I'd have objective test data to tell me.
You stated to follow BMW's recommendation. If you don't need to change the oil then why do you need to analyze it?

Good luck with your lifetime oil and BMWs recommendation.
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      06-08-2010, 08:45 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
The car certainly won't run any better or last any longer by "driving it like you stole it" but it will certainly not run as well or as long if abused during break-in. In Germany most people are smart enough to break their new vehicle in by the book and then once it's broken in properly they drive according to the laws while properly maintaining their cars. Sure they run them fast on the A-Bahn but with a properly broken in engine it's not a problem. These cars are meant to be driven.

Let's refrain from the personal attacks. It isn't wise to tell someone to floor it out the dealer's door, just because they are leasing or trading in a few years. By most accounts that would be considered ignorant advice. You can still do serious engine damage from abuse and that would not be covered by warranty.
Relax Rat, I was being facitious about burning out of the lot, but I did just that back in 69 when I picked up a new Roadrunner 440 6-Pack. My point was to follow the book, or take it easy for 300 miles and then do a few WOTS as long as you are moving. It will not hurt a thing. The engines are run prior to shipping over here.

The key is to cvary your speed. I have broken cars in many different ways over a lot of years, and never had a problem. To me, oil changes are more important over the life of the engine.
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      06-08-2010, 10:49 PM   #20
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Sort of like Modding! You have a 4 year/50K warranty. I never keep one longer than the warranty. Especially a BMW.
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      06-09-2010, 10:46 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shodanusmc View Post
Relax Rat, I was being facitious about burning out of the lot, but I did just that back in 69 when I picked up a new Roadrunner 440 6-Pack. My point was to follow the book, or take it easy for 300 miles and then do a few WOTS as long as you are moving. It will not hurt a thing. The engines are run prior to shipping over here.

The key is to cvary your speed. I have broken cars in many different ways over a lot of years, and never had a problem. To me, oil changes are more important over the life of the engine.
Take back my I comments.
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      06-09-2010, 11:02 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackRat View Post
You don't need to analyse it. A UOA is to confirm that BMW is correct when they tell you if and when to change it or not. It prevents speculation and wild azz guesses, (WAGs).
So, does this mean you will never change your transmission oil? How many different ways do I need to ask this question before you answer it?

In any cae, excellent technical discussion. My guess is you are from Britain and used to work for Jaguar. Would like talk more about the science of ring break-in, et al.
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