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      08-21-2010, 07:45 AM   #1
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Seat Belt and Tail Light recalls fixed.

Inskip replaced the upper seat belts and tail light seals during the annual service. They just received the new seat belt parts a few days ago.

They also upgraded the software to ISTA/P 38.2.0.1 to fix a number of issues with the radio and NAV. I noticed that some of the NAV menus are now different and other functions behave differently. Time for some exploring. I was surprised that my saved routes from Euro Delivery survived the software upgrade. The NAV, now that it has USA maps, gets a little confused when I activate a saved route and ask it to take me from the BMW Welt to Hohenschwangau.

They filled the container from Blackstone Labs when they changed the oil. It will be interesting to see what the contamination looks like compared to when I changed it at 1,200 miles.

BMW has changed the policy for the annual oil change under the 4-year service plan. If it has been less than 6,000 miles and more than a year since the last oil change, they will change it. If it is more than 6,000 miles and more than a year since the last oil change, then you will have to wait for the CBS to say it is time for a change.
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      08-21-2010, 10:05 AM   #2
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Last time I went in, I asked not to have the software updated. Didn't know if it would mess with the JB3. Is it worth it, you think?
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      08-21-2010, 10:30 AM   #3
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My last service I also asked not to update my ecu. They told me there is 3 updates available. I also asked for them to replace my 3rd brake light but they didn't
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      08-21-2010, 10:45 AM   #4
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Mine's going in next week for service, new head unit, and cracked third brake light replacement. Luckily they had the replacement lens.. said they're hard to come by,.. but stole one from another MA dealer. (kidding)
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      08-21-2010, 10:28 PM   #5
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i did whatever the update was back last year when i brought my car in for service, but nothing new since then
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      08-22-2010, 10:36 AM   #6
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Last time I went in, I asked not to have the software updated. Didn't know if it would mess with the JB3. Is it worth it, you think?
Since mine is a stock 128i with the N51 engine I am not so concerend with the effects of the new software. I do hope that it fixed a number of intermittent issues with the radio and NAV.
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      08-24-2010, 07:37 AM   #7
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BMW has changed the policy for the annual oil change under the 4-year service plan. If it has been less than 6,000 miles and more than a year since the last oil change, they will change it. If it is more than 6,000 miles and more than a year since the last oil change, then you will have to wait for the CBS to say it is time for a change.
This seems rather backward to me... if you've done less miles, you get an oil change, if you've driven more then you don't.

See guys, I'm still lurking around... missing autox
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      08-24-2010, 10:09 AM   #8
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This seems rather backward to me... if you've done less miles, you get an oil change, if you've driven more then you don't.

See guys, I'm still lurking around... missing autox
we had a pretty wet one over the weekend man.

have you found the phantome yet??
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      08-24-2010, 11:11 AM   #9
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This seems rather backward to me... if you've done less miles, you get an oil change, if you've driven more then you don't.
I believe that the idea is that a car that has less than 6,000 miles will probably have be driven on lots short trips and will have more contamination in the oil.
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      08-25-2010, 04:18 AM   #10
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we had a pretty wet one over the weekend man.

have you found the phantome yet??
Haven't had any yet, but did find a person who has done a brewery visit, so it may be on the agenda for some time in the future. Word is the guy is a bit wacky and just brews random stuff based on whatever he feels like. So is great and some is not so great and/or strange.

I am still trying to get the kinks worked out of the 10-year old Seat Leon TDI I bought. It's strange and is will go into a limp/low power mode if you go full throttle in at highway speeds (like 4th gear). Turning the car off and on again resets the problem and it drives normal until low power mode is tripped again.

It is throwing a positive pressure deviation code, so I think that it senses too much boost and then goes into a safe mode. The place where I bought it is going to try for a second time to fix it. I have read many possibilities of what may cause it, including a bad boost control valve, cracked hoses, and mucked up turbo... though I would think most of those would result in negative pressure deviations. Also, the turbo was already removed from the car once and cleaned... so who know what it is now.

If this stupid problem would get straightened out, I think the car would be a nice little car, albeit rather slow by US standards.

Oh well, it seems to drive fine if I keep it below full throttle, but how much fun is that?



Quote:
Originally Posted by m_thompson View Post
I believe that the idea is that a car that has less than 6,000 miles will probably have be driven on lots short trips and will have more contamination in the oil.
Well, I guess that makes a little bit of sense.
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      08-25-2010, 08:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artmasterx View Post
I am still trying to get the kinks worked out of the 10-year old Seat Leon TDI I bought. It's strange and is will go into a limp/low power mode if you go full throttle in at highway speeds (like 4th gear). Turning the car off and on again resets the problem and it drives normal until low power mode is tripped again.

It is throwing a positive pressure deviation code, so I think that it senses too much boost and then goes into a safe mode. The place where I bought it is going to try for a second time to fix it. I have read many possibilities of what may cause it, including a bad boost control valve, cracked hoses, and mucked up turbo... though I would think most of those would result in negative pressure deviations. Also, the turbo was already removed from the car once and cleaned... so who know what it is now.

Rob, how are you liking Belgium? I've been a couple of time for work and would love to get back over there for a vacation. Does Ax exist there?

As for your turbo problems, it has to be related to the boost solenoid, diverter/blow-off valve or wastegate. Check (or just replace) all of your vacuum lines that run between the turbo, waste gate, intake manifold, turbo intake pipe and the blow-off valve. All of these lines work under both pressure and vacuum. Cracking in these lines would not be a surprise on a ten year old car, especially around the turbo due to the heat from the turbo. Cracking in these lines can result in the boost solenoid not reacting quickly enough, the waste gate failing to open or the blow-off valve failing to open. If you replace all of the vacuum lines, ensure that there isn't a restrictor pill (typically a brass orifice) in one of the lines running between the wastegate and turbo.

Ensure that your blow-off valve works smoothly. Remove it from the car and actuate it by hand. Clean it while it is off. The blow-off is held closed by a spring and manifold pressure while under boost. As soon as you lift your foot off of the accelerator, the manifold will go from being under pressure to vacuum and result in opening of the blow-off valve to relieve excess pressure between the turbo and the throttle body. Because your problem seems to only be under full throttle, there is little chance that this is your problem. But, it would be worth checking.

The boost solenoid could be messing with the actuation of the wastegate. Checking out the boost solenoid will require access to computer data along with the manifold pressure and the pressure coming out of the the solenoid (unless you have a fixed valve, then it is not actuated by the computer). This can also get tricky to check out since most modern turbo cars will not load the turbo without a load on the engine, i.e., the turbo won't develop boost while the car is parked. This would be a lower probability problem unless the car pumped a bunch of oil through the intake manifold or turbo intake pipe at some point in its life.

The waste gate may not be actuating as expected. The device works under pressure to bypass exhaust gasses around the turbo as the boost target is approached or exceeded and is a function of the manifold pressure. The device is subjected to basically all of the heat from the turbo and is typically actuated by a fabric and rubber diaphragm that is expanded by the manifold pressure as actuated by the boost solenoid, or turbo exit pressure directly. Given the heat cycles on a wastegate and the typical construction of a OEM part, I wouldn't be surprised if one might fail after ten years. The actuator arm should also be checked to ensure that it is not bent and moves freely (assuming that it is an external wastegate turbo).

So that's the brain dump on boost issues and probably stuff you already know. I guess if I were looking at the car, the order would be vacuum lines, wastegate, boost solenoid, blow-off valve. Now, if only you hadn't just moved to Belgium and and had some tools.
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      08-25-2010, 08:45 AM   #12
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Haven't had any yet, but did find a person who has done a brewery visit, so it may be on the agenda for some time in the future. Word is the guy is a bit wacky and just brews random stuff based on whatever he feels like. So is great and some is not so great and/or strange.
i would kill to see that brewery! definite ask your friend to help set something up for you. the brewmaster used to work at brasserie d'achouffe IIRC (or was it chimay?) and he's known for throwing random stuff in the brews. every bottle is different, but they're almost all in the same basic saison style aka delectable
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      08-25-2010, 09:41 AM   #13
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Rob, how are you liking Belgium? I've been a couple of time for work and would love to get back over there for a vacation. Does Ax exist there?

As for your turbo problems, it has to be related to the boost solenoid, diverter/blow-off valve or wastegate. Check (or just replace) all of your vacuum lines that run between the turbo, waste gate, intake manifold, turbo intake pipe and the blow-off valve. All of these lines work under both pressure and vacuum. Cracking in these lines would not be a surprise on a ten year old car, especially around the turbo due to the heat from the turbo. Cracking in these lines can result in the boost solenoid not reacting quickly enough, the waste gate failing to open or the blow-off valve failing to open. If you replace all of the vacuum lines, ensure that there isn't a restrictor pill (typically a brass orifice) in one of the lines running between the wastegate and turbo.

Ensure that your blow-off valve works smoothly. Remove it from the car and actuate it by hand. Clean it while it is off. The blow-off is held closed by a spring and manifold pressure while under boost. As soon as you lift your foot off of the accelerator, the manifold will go from being under pressure to vacuum and result in opening of the blow-off valve to relieve excess pressure between the turbo and the throttle body. Because your problem seems to only be under full throttle, there is little chance that this is your problem. But, it would be worth checking.

The boost solenoid could be messing with the actuation of the wastegate. Checking out the boost solenoid will require access to computer data along with the manifold pressure and the pressure coming out of the the solenoid (unless you have a fixed valve, then it is not actuated by the computer). This can also get tricky to check out since most modern turbo cars will not load the turbo without a load on the engine, i.e., the turbo won't develop boost while the car is parked. This would be a lower probability problem unless the car pumped a bunch of oil through the intake manifold or turbo intake pipe at some point in its life.

The waste gate may not be actuating as expected. The device works under pressure to bypass exhaust gasses around the turbo as the boost target is approached or exceeded and is a function of the manifold pressure. The device is subjected to basically all of the heat from the turbo and is typically actuated by a fabric and rubber diaphragm that is expanded by the manifold pressure as actuated by the boost solenoid, or turbo exit pressure directly. Given the heat cycles on a wastegate and the typical construction of a OEM part, I wouldn't be surprised if one might fail after ten years. The actuator arm should also be checked to ensure that it is not bent and moves freely (assuming that it is an external wastegate turbo).

So that's the brain dump on boost issues and probably stuff you already know. I guess if I were looking at the car, the order would be vacuum lines, wastegate, boost solenoid, blow-off valve. Now, if only you hadn't just moved to Belgium and and had some tools.
That seems more of an explosion than a dump, but I like it!

Here is a diagram I found that gives a block diagram of the vacuum system and the air/exhaust path.



Here are some further pictures of the turbo that should be in my car: click me

one sample picture:


I don't believe our turbos have a proper wastegate or a blow-off valve, but I am not too familiar with these things. It does have variable vanes in the turbo to regulate boost, which is one common problem base on what I have read. Often these vanes get mucked up by soot in the exhaust and get stuck. And if they get stuck in the position that would tend to give the most boost, then the ECU can't regulate boost down at high load/RPM because the vanes are stuck.

That being said, my turbo was supposedly cleaned already and should have this problem. The shop thought that the cleaning would fix the problem, but apparently not. So it goes back in the shop at the end of next week...

I believe the N75 valve is functionally equivalent to the wastegate solenoid you mentioned, so it could be that the N75 valve is screwed up... or like you said a hose is cracked. When it was in the shop before, they did replace a number of vacuum tubes, but I don't think they replaced any of the main air-flow turbos for the intercooler or turbo.

Oh well, add that to the mix...


What makes the inability to go full throttle even more annoying is the fact that I am driving to Black Forest this weekend in Germany... so the autobahn will be just a little less fun (not that a 110 hp diesel gives you an ear-to-ear grin anyways).

P.S. Belgium is ok. There are some good things, like 35 vacation days a year and proximity to a lot of western Europe, but also annoying things like the bureaucracy, limited open hours of most everything, not really knowing many people, and not have English as the default language. Once we get traveling it will seem better I am sure. We are heading to Romania/Bulgaria/Istanbul in October, then Barcelona in Nov, and probably Prague/Vienna also in Nov (none of them driving trips though). Gotta use those vacation days somehow!
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      08-25-2010, 09:56 AM   #14
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I forgot it was a diesel. Game off...
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      08-25-2010, 10:07 AM   #15
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Still insightful comments, and it's not that different.

p.s. I think I accidentally high-jacked the thread... just a little bit.
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      08-25-2010, 10:09 AM   #16
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I actually almost started the "Rob check-in" thread to divert the hijack, but decided I didn't care enough. Anyway, Belgium and turbos are more fun than seat belts, tail lights and recalls.

As for the turbo, the concepts should be similar between gas and diesel. However, I have yet to see a turbo implemented in a diesel that has been as straight forward as a typical gas installation.
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      08-25-2010, 12:12 PM   #17
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Still insightful comments, and it's not that different.

p.s. I think I accidentally high-jacked the thread... just a little bit.



i finally get to use this one!
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      08-25-2010, 12:14 PM   #18
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while i'm at it...



in a good way tho
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      09-12-2010, 01:59 AM   #19
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I got the seatbelt recall work done last Wednesday. I didn't even know about the light recall and they also did that while I was there. My tail lights were working perfectly before I brought it in thoug,h and now, a day later, the right rear brake light is out. Maybe it's a coincidence but it seems like perhaps they broke it or didn't reinstall it correctly when I was there (does the recall involve disconnecting the lights?).

What is the deal with oil changes? I thought you only got them ever 15,000 miles? I asked for an oil change and they charged me $100 for it (i don't drive much and I've had my 135 for 2 years and 3 months and have 23800 miles on it). They did change my brake fluid though. I don't understand how they decide these things need to be done. They told me they were going to change my brake fluid before they even looked at my car (how did they know how miles were even on it??). One annoying thing is under the warranty repair "CBS standard scope" they talk about topping off fluids including windshield washer fluid, but under the oil change section they charge me $3.84 for washer fluid.
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      09-12-2010, 02:38 AM   #20
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Hey Artmasterx,

Yea... I also had a TDI. The N75 valve is the way VAG controls boost. Theycrap out alot. The other problem is that the TDi engines can build up a ton of sluge inside the intake. Way more than ay D.I. will. I have seen some horror photos on the web. Seems that the newer Pump Duese w/common rail injection motors do thus more so. A lot of people put a plate between the EGR valve to stop this. And yes also check your vacuum lines for breaking(VAG uses shitty cloth lines that disintergrate over time) or being clogged with soot/goop. And... the MAF sensor is known to go bad too. casuing a low power mode. You can unplug the MAF to see if the car drives the same or not. It did not throw any codes on my car. But my car was a '99 115 PS PD model.

Also... IF you have a newer TDi with Pump Deuse - make sure to use the correct VAG oil. Just like BMW there are special oils for VAGs. 505.1 IF I remember right.

The only good thing about the TDi's is they can get 55 mpg plus (5 Liters/100kph)!!! The best I ever got was 4.3 liters and the worse was 12 liters/100 kph. I always averaged about 6.5L though. Its hard to drive slow with an unrestricted autobahn here.

Good Luck,
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      09-12-2010, 03:30 AM   #21
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Thanks for the information. I have been trying to work things out and find out what is the problem. I do not have a PD engine, it is the mid-level 110 hp engine with variable vane turbo (VNT15?), engine code ALH, which is basically the same as ASV. There are some more details (including vagcom logs) at seatcupra.net if you are interested:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=280772

I am planning on switching the EGR (N18?) and boost control (N75) solenoids and relogging data to see if that improves the boost control. Edit... just checked and the electrical connections are different, so they can't be swapped directly... which sucks.

The other though I had is a messed up MAP sensor that is reading a higher pressure than actually exists (I guess the opposite of the MAF which tends to read too low airflow when it starts to die). Short of buying a new MAP, I am not sure how to test that.

The turbo has already been cleaned and a cracked oil return pipe from the turbo was just replace a few days ago. That replacement pipe seemed to have make it much harder to get it to go into limp mode, but it still appears to be overboosting based on the vagcom logs, so all is not well...

If you have any more insight, definitely share. Once I get this problem fixed, I will be turning down the EGR in Vagcom or putting in a blanking plate. My car my be old enough that I could simply unplug the EGR solenoid and not throw an error code... so maybe I will try that first.

I am getting about 6L/100km right now with a lot of highway driving (about 40 miles/US gallon). I thought I may do a bit better, but maybe the turbo issues are throwing things off.
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