135i Turbo Engine (N54 / N55) *General Questions Thread*

[mineo77]

I would go with HPF

[TZANIDO777]

Originally Posted by BMW86

I'd go with meisterschaft.

HP touring or the GT one? From the videos the GT one sounds raspy but the HP touring has a much better sound so I dont know

[bryce]

Originally Posted by mineo77

I would go with HPF

[alice]

Could someone tell me whether there are any advantages/disadvantages of having a blow off valve over the normal re-circulatory valve?

I have always wondered if there is actually any benefit other than the noise!

[bryce]

Originally Posted by alice

Could someone tell me whether there are any advantages/disadvantages of having a blow off valve over the normal re-circulatory valve?

I have always wondered if there is actually any benefit other than the noise!

this is kind of a complicated issue. here are the two sides to the argument:

-at higher boost levels than stock, you need a blow off valve that can hold the higher pressure and release consistantly

-other vendors have found that the stock divertor valves work fine, even at 16 psi. they may wear out faster, but i personally haven't read of or seen any problems on this forum or my car




overall, the sound is probably the main benefit. some will argue the between shift bogging is reduced with either upgraded divertor valves (forge) or a blow off valve, but from the testing i've read about, i'm not sure it's THAT big of a difference.


i will say that once HPF releases their charge pipe/ synapse BOV combo, i'll purchase one

[bryce]

congrats BTW on placing a deposit on a 1M

[mke135i]

Originally Posted by alice

Could someone tell me whether there are any advantages/disadvantages of having a blow off valve over the normal re-circulatory valve?

I have always wondered if there is actually any benefit other than the noise!

It's simple, really. If you want the loud obnoxious sound, get a bov. If you want to hold boost better, get upgrade DVs (diverter valves) from forge.

Just my .02c

[The1]

Originally Posted by mke135i

It's simple, really. If you want the loud obnoxious sound, get a bov. If you want to hold boost better, get upgrade DVs (diverter valves) from forge.

Just my .02c

this is likely the route i will go, helps keep things sleeper too.

also helps avoid extra richness in the engine when shifting gears or letting off throttle quickly.

A blow off is an effective way to hold boost better then stock, but it has the disadvantage of the rich shifts (which won't throw check engine lights on our cars) but in my opinion, we have enough carbon build up potential in our engines, so why add any more chance to add to it?


and in some peoples eyes, it also has the disadvantage of the sound. I don't want to be noticed by every riced out tin can when i drive down the street casually. I had to live with that with my last car. And i just didn't like the attention. Which is half the reason i bought this car.... Ultimate sleeper.

or like a nasty fart.... silent but deadly!

[The1]

Bryce, was just thinking... yes, it hurts...

but I was thinking that this thread might be starting to get a bit on the long side for some people. Maybe time to start this thread over as Part 2 and if anyone asks the same questions that are in this thread just find and explanations that are in this thread and provide the link directly to the post.

and any new questions just address them there.

then this one can be locked off and kept at a manageable length.

Just food for thought

[bryce]

Originally Posted by mke135i

It's simple, really. If you want the loud obnoxious sound, get a bov. If you want to hold boost better, get upgrade DVs (diverter valves) from forge.

Just my .02c

n54tech has a great thread that Terry w/ bms made about how well the stock divertor valves hold the upgraded boost on tuned vehicles. it definitely doesn't hurt to have aftermarket dv's, but i seem to remember him finding out that the stock ones are no slouch

[bryce]

Originally Posted by The1

Bryce, was just thinking... yes, it hurts...

but I was thinking that this thread might be starting to get a bit on the long side for some people. Maybe time to start this thread over as Part 2 and if anyone asks the same questions that are in this thread just find and explanations that are in this thread and provide the link directly to the post.

and any new questions just address them there.

then this one can be locked off and kept at a manageable length.

Just food for thought

not a bad point, The1. i'll give it some thought and PM the mod for this subforum to see what they think

[escobar929]

Originally Posted by mineo77

I would go with HPF

i would agree but its taking way too long for any thing to come out from them, who knows when it will be out

[oman135]

Any videos of the cp-e exhsust on the n55 full cat-back without dp

[BMW86]

Originally Posted by mineo77

I would go with HPF

I would consider HPF but they haven't released an official release date yet. All their R&D seems to be going into cars other than the 135i.

Originally Posted by TZANIDO777

HP touring or the GT one? From the videos the GT one sounds raspy but the HP touring has a much better sound so I dont know

I'm not sure of the differences between them. My advice would be to get the quieter of the two if you plan to add the downpipes or midpipes section at some point otherwise get the louder option.

[BMW86]

Hey bryce can you tell me more about the dp fix for catless dp's? I understand it goes into the ECU compartment but is the dp fix supposed to be installed into the actual JB harness or into the stock wires? Also, what are the settings? I couldn't find any installation instructions as I was curious about it. Also, how if you had catless dp's without a sim fix, how long would it take to throw a code?

[stevenc]

The DP fix wires into the JB3 harness and without it you would throw a code quite quickly, probably within minutes. However with the new BMS can data tool or the JB4, no need for the DP fix. It automatically handles that.

[bryce]

Originally Posted by BMW86

Hey bryce can you tell me more about the dp fix for catless dp's? I understand it goes into the ECU compartment but is the dp fix supposed to be installed into the actual JB harness or into the stock wires? Also, what are the settings? I couldn't find any installation instructions as I was curious about it. Also, how if you had catless dp's without a sim fix, how long would it take to throw a code?

stevenc has a good point, you don't need the dpfix if you get the jb4 or cantool. the dpfix does install in the ecu compartment, if you have a PNP jb3 it goes into the harness. i had a pinout jb3, so the dpfix went just into one of the subconnectors.

as far as settings, it works great for most people on the factory setting (which is roughly 6 o'clock). i never had any codes from my catless dp's when i had the dpfix. if you get codes, terry recommended moving the dial one notch and driving 30 or 40 miles to see if the codes come back.

if you don't use a dpfix, procede, jb4, or cantool, you could get codes within 30 or 40 miles or so. by codes, you'll probably see a check engine light, and there will be cat convertor deficiency codes on the dme.

[bryce]

Originally Posted by stevenc

The DP fix wires into the JB3 harness and without it you would throw a code quite quickly, probably within minutes. However with the new BMS can data tool or the JB4, no need for the DP fix. It automatically handles that.

great points, thanks



btw, i used to have an rsx, i'm still friends w/ dabert and kevin plus others. you should come out to one of our meets, they're typically a lot of fun.

[bryce]

TTT



wondering if a riss racing exhaust has any fitment problems? post here plz

[BMW86]

Originally Posted by stevenc

The DP fix wires into the JB3 harness and without it you would throw a code quite quickly, probably within minutes. However with the new BMS can data tool or the JB4, no need for the DP fix. It automatically handles that.

Originally Posted by bryce

stevenc has a good point, you don't need the dpfix if you get the jb4 or cantool. the dpfix does install in the ecu compartment, if you have a PNP jb3 it goes into the harness. i had a pinout jb3, so the dpfix went just into one of the subconnectors.

as far as settings, it works great for most people on the factory setting (which is roughly 6 o'clock). i never had any codes from my catless dp's when i had the dpfix. if you get codes, terry recommended moving the dial one notch and driving 30 or 40 miles to see if the codes come back.

if you don't use a dpfix, procede, jb4, or cantool, you could get codes within 30 or 40 miles or so. by codes, you'll probably see a check engine light, and there will be cat convertor deficiency codes on the dme.

Thanks for the replies. So for dealer visits, those that are completely stock would need a dp fix or would have to erase codes as soon as you get to the dealership right? Also, what about those that are running a tune such as Procede or JB4 which delete codes. If they remove the piggyback before they go into the dealership and leave the catless dp's in for service would it likely trigger a code during this time? It seems kind of risky so it would be best to leave in the Procede/JB4 but then they might find that too. Also, do you know where the instructions are for dp fix installation? I would like to know a bit more about what's involved. thanks again!

[bryce]

Originally Posted by BMW86

Thanks for the replies. So for dealer visits, those that are completely stock would need a dp fix or would have to erase codes as soon as you get to the dealership right? Also, what about those that are running a tune such as Procede or JB4 which delete codes. If they remove the piggyback before they go into the dealership and leave the catless dp's in for service would it likely trigger a code during this time? It seems kind of risky so it would be best to leave in the Procede/JB4 but then they might find that too. Also, do you know where the instructions are for dp fix installation? I would like to know a bit more about what's involved. thanks again!

i leave my procede in the ecu compartment for dealer visits but:

a. my dealer is very cool with me and my mods

b. i don't really give a fuck if they weren't, you can't "loose" your warranty for having aftermarket parts installed; unless they cause a problem. for service or hpfp replacements, i go to the dealer fully modded.



install instructions for dpfix

[FDfranklin]

Im going to use the at work no time to search excuse for being lazy

Can someone post stock n54 dyno and jb3, procede dynos?

My boss doesn't believe the tunes give that much power.