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      10-31-2010, 01:42 PM   #45
mineo77
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great thread B!
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      10-31-2010, 03:03 PM   #46
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Everything I have read shows biggest power add after tune is meth, then kittyless downpipes, then intercooler, then exhaust. I have jb3 with newest firmware and just installed coolingmist methanol. I am putting my active autowerke kittyless dp's on in 2 weeks so I will let you know for sure but meth is absolutely awesome. I have stayed on map 5 progressively spraying starting at 8 psi and reaching max at 12psi and all I can say is holy crap! 2nd gear spins like 1st did on map 5! Also, it pulls in upper gears throughout the entire rpm range to redline.

I installed mine with an Evolution raceworks charge pipe and meth elbow. I had them put 3 bungs total so I can go up to 2 meth injectors and one nitrous later if I desire. I was hesitant to do this while under warranty but I wanted it too bad.

Btw- I will have the jb4 in next month when it comes out which will have the features and control of the v4 for half the price. Plus, I agree the firmware prior to the 7-4-10 update wasn't as smooth but that was corrected in july with new release. The jb is a good chip. IF you are in market now for chip, u can buy jb3 and get free upgrade to g4 when comes out.

I have read good things about the procede also but all this talk about how it is safer than the jb3 is not founded by facts. It is mostly marketing talk. What they point to as proof the jb3 is not safe is 2 guys who were pushing their cars beyond the limits. 20 psi on pump gas and no fail safe on. That is nieve at best. Plus, they really weren't driving jb3 chips because he took out the chip, removed soldered pieces from the board and soldered different pieces on so that he could bypass the built in safe guards of the chip and go to over 20 psi. The jb3 in out of box stock form would never have reached anywhere close and therefore would have prevented the incident. Also, the failsafe would have prevented if it was turned on. Jb3 is a good product and so is procede. They are both safe in stock form

Last edited by jojo135; 10-31-2010 at 03:08 PM.
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      10-31-2010, 05:27 PM   #47
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^i agree with most of what you said. if you look at the facts, however, the procede v4 is MUCH safer than the jb3. here's a few cruicial concepts that back up that statement:

-the procede v4 uses cps offsetting to control and limit timing.
-procede v4 with autotuning adapts everyday to conditions. autotuning can reduce boost or timing should you get a bad tank of gas.
-procede v4 doesn't go active until the oil temperatures reach normal levels.


the jb3 offers none of those features. the g4 jb3 will have an autotuning feature that only controls boost. so no timing or knock control, just boost autotuning. on a turbocharged vehicle, knock and timing control are very important if you're running significantly higher boost than stock.

i don't really want to start a tuner war or flame jb3 users (i used to be one), but the procede v4 is definitely safer to run regardless of the power levels you're putting down.
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      10-31-2010, 05:28 PM   #48
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great thread B!
thanks
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      10-31-2010, 09:30 PM   #49
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Smile

The dme controls timing. Tuner wars are started when people continually say something is safer ... i Just was presenting flip side of coin there are thousands of cars running juice boxes with no knock problems. The argument was better presented as just what u said above about timing control, not safety...safety is in the numbers...thousands of cars running without issue. The reason safety is brought up is because some individuals point to the guys melted ringland as caused by the jb3 and like I said in last post, it has nothing to do with that. It doesn't matter what tune u have if u run 20 psi on stock turbos and pump gas with and no meth failsafe. Those threads are where the "safety" argument was presented all the time and beaten like a dead horse.
To each is own. I think if one is concerned with safety so much, either get a flash where nothing is tricked or don't tune. Any time you increase output drastically, there is room for error. Dme is best suited to control the car. But again, everyone is different.
Lesson learned, If anyone wants to try running 20 psi on pump, and with all safeguards removed, please do it on the procede.

Just kidding. The truth is that the procede has some advantages. Peace


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Originally Posted by bryce View Post
^i agree with most of what you said. if you look at the facts, however, the procede v4 is MUCH safer than the jb3. here's a few cruicial concepts that back up that statement:

-the procede v4 uses cps offsetting to control and limit timing.
-procede v4 with autotuning adapts everyday to conditions. autotuning can reduce boost or timing should you get a bad tank of gas.
-procede v4 doesn't go active until the oil temperatures reach normal levels.


the jb3 offers none of those features. the g4 jb3 will have an autotuning feature that only controls boost. so no timing or knock control, just boost autotuning. on a turbocharged vehicle, knock and timing control are very important if you're running significantly higher boost than stock.

i don't really want to start a tuner war or flame jb3 users (i used to be one), but the procede v4 is definitely safer to run regardless of the power levels you're putting down.

Last edited by jojo135; 10-31-2010 at 09:40 PM.
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      11-01-2010, 09:51 AM   #50
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guys any dyno's for Tuned N55 Procede or jb3 ?
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      11-01-2010, 11:17 AM   #51
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what is the best setting for Drag Race ?
Sport button + S mode or sport button + M mode which is faster?
and traction control full off or half ?
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      11-01-2010, 11:34 AM   #52
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guys any dyno's for Tuned N55 Procede or jb3 ?
yes, check this sub forum and e90post.com, also. i remember seeing 340-360 whp on the procede and jb3 for the n55.

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what is the best setting for Drag Race ?
Sport button + S mode or sport button + M mode which is faster?
and traction control full off or half ?
i don't know the answer to this question, sorry. i drive a 6-speed manual and haven't really played with the dct enough to know which settings to use at the drag strip
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      11-01-2010, 11:58 AM   #53
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thanks Bryce
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      11-01-2010, 01:20 PM   #54
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thanks Bryce
no problem
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      11-02-2010, 07:41 AM   #55
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ttt
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      11-03-2010, 12:17 PM   #56
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Just throwing out a random general question:

Is an oil change needed after the 1200 mile break in?
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      11-03-2010, 02:57 PM   #57
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Just throwing out a random general question:

Is an oil change needed after the 1200 mile break in?
"needed" probably not

recommended, yes


the dealership won't give you a free oil change at 1200 miles, but it's recommended that you do a break in oil change. there's a suprising amount of metal in the oil after break in
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      11-03-2010, 10:05 PM   #58
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during the milling process a lot of spare metal is thrown around. they do clean the block after the milling, however stuff still gets left behind. the filter picks all this up, so it is good to do the change, definitely not necessary...

but the sooner you can get that metal out, the less chance of a freak mishap happening.

oil filters if they become too clogged can actually bypass themselves. you do not want this to happen with the filter full of metal.
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      11-04-2010, 09:44 AM   #59
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during the milling process a lot of spare metal is thrown around. they do clean the block after the milling, however stuff still gets left behind. the filter picks all this up, so it is good to do the change, definitely not necessary...

but the sooner you can get that metal out, the less chance of a freak mishap happening.

oil filters if they become too clogged can actually bypass themselves. you do not want this to happen with the filter full of metal.


this might be overkill but the same could be said about the differential oil and the transmission fluid
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      11-04-2010, 09:47 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by bryce View Post


this might be overkill but the same could be said about the differential oil and the transmission fluid
and differential, and cooling system....

many transmissions and differentials have magnets on their drain hole plug so it's not really a concern as it all gets collected and doesn't move again. Don't know what BMW does about this though, but it wouldn't surprise me if they do this.
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      11-04-2010, 10:05 AM   #61
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and differential, and cooling system....

many transmissions and differentials have magnets on their drain hole plug so it's not really a concern as it all gets collected and doesn't move again. Don't know what BMW does about this though, but it wouldn't surprise me if they do this.
right on. just to be safe i flushed my transmission fluid, differential oil, and power steering fluid recently. bmw wouldn't pay for it so i took it to an independent shop
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      11-04-2010, 10:50 AM   #62
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And how can you prove that?

Because they are still running doe not mean there are no knock problems.
lol where did you quote that from; it's not in this thread.

but you're right. knock can cause premature wear on piston rings, cylinders, pistons, etc. but there might not be any evident problems until down the road.

that's not to say that the jb3 causes knock, however.
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      11-04-2010, 02:19 PM   #63
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What is the best oil catch can?
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      11-04-2010, 02:47 PM   #64
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What is the best oil catch can?
i'll start this off by saying that everyone will tell you whatever they bought is the best.

i bought the ar design occ for a few different reasons:

-it's got the best mounting location (driver's side front corner, attaches to the power steering fluid resovoir).

-ar design makes some of the best products for the n54

-the bsh (and others) mount right above the turbo's and exhaust manifolds

for an oil catch can to work effectively, there needs to be a temperature change to collect the most blow-by. the ar design can mounts in the most ideal location, one that isn't too hot and it's still out of the way for the most part.
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      11-04-2010, 06:36 PM   #65
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ok thanks
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      11-04-2010, 07:15 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxnix View Post
And how can you prove that?

Because they are still running doe not mean there are no knock problems.
The car has this thing called a dme. The dme is the same as an ecu. The dme/ecu monitors all conditions in the motor and warns the driver if there is knock happening. It warns them by throwing a code.

I read where one of the authorized dealers wrote on this forum that over 4k jb3 chips have been sold and that was a long time ago.

Now, I certainly haven't seen thousands of people complaining about knock or glow codes...have u? I haven't even seen one tenth of one percent of those people posting issues with knock codes. In fact, I don't recall seeing any except for the ones who were running 20 psi on pump gas and no fail safe and no longer jb3 board anymore.
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