BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)


Post Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      04-30-2017, 06:58 PM   #1

Drives: 2011 128i
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: South Carolina

iTrader: (0)

Replacing door lock actuator

The other week my passengers-side door completely stopped locking and unlocking. The little lock plunger thing was down, looking like the door was always locked, but I/anyone could just pull the handle and the door would open. So after some research here, I decided to replace the door lock actuator. There were one or two useful threads in this forum, and lots of stuff for the 3 series, but not much for our cars so I figured I'd write this up. I'm mildly handy, (do my own oil changes, coolant flushes, and brake jobs) and this job too me about 2 hours and really wasn't that difficult.

- new actuator (part # 51217263086), I got a pair (left and right) for $55
- some people say you'll want some new panel clips in case you break some removing the door panel, but I managed to not break any.

- T-20 torx bit
- T-30 torx bit
- 10mm socket
- razor blade
- plastic panel removal tool
- some sort of metal pick


1. First you'll need to remove the interior door panel. I followed this video to a T and it had everything:
Like the guy says in the video, the panel is really clipped on tightly, so it'll take some pulling to get it off. He starts in a corner when he begins prying the panel off, but I had no luck with that so I started in the middle of the bottom side and it came off no problem. Once the panel is off and the speaker wire and lock cable are off, you'll still have the other end of the lock cable attached to the actuator. Just pull down on the white bit and then pull away from the actuator housing, and it'll pop right out. Finally, remove the lock rod by simply pulling it straight out from its hole.

2. Once the panel is off and everything disconnected, you'll need to use your razor blade to cut out the vapor barrier foam. The sealant BMW used is applied pretty thickly, so you'll be able to run the razor blade down the middle of it. This means that there's sealant left on both the metal of the door and the vapor barrier so reapplying the barrier when you're finished will be easy. You only need to cut about half of the barrier off.

Vapor barrier:

Vapor barrier half-way removed:

3. Next you need to get the old actuator unit out. First, if you look inside the door at the actuator, you'll notice that there a cable coming down from the top of the door that attaches to the actuator with two holding points. Disconnect this cable by holding it and pulling it straight away from the actuator. The cable will pop right out of its holding mounts.

Inside view of the door showing this cable. You can see the two mounting brackets that hold the cable in place.

4. Next, remove the three screws holding the actuator in place. Use the T30 torx bit for these. Once all three are out, the old actuator is completely free to move around.

5. Removing the actuator from its compartment inside the door is annoying. To help, loosen the two bolts on the underside of the door frame that are holding the window guide track in place. I wouldn't recommend removing these, but I loosened them and it gave me a few mm of wiggle room which was enough. Basically try your hardest to get the old actuator out. I probably spent 5-10 minutes trying every possible position before I finally managed to jimmy it out.

This is the actual orientation of the old actuator when I finally got it out. Put the new one in starting in this exact position.

6. Wrapping up. Now the hard parts are all done. Get the new actuator in the door, screw it in place good and tight, replace the cable on the back, plug the new actuator in, replace the vapor barrier (be very sure to get a good seal), then reattach the various wires and then the interior panel. The only issue I had with all this was getting the locking rod to stay in place: every time I pounded the panel back in place the rob fell out of its hole and I had to remove the panel again. Turned out the rod was not fully seated in its socket. Really push it in there and you'll hear a good click.

One last note: with the new actuator, you kinda have to push the door closed a little bit harder than before to actually fully close the door. Hopefully this has to do with the part being new and it'll relax a little over time.

Here's a gallery these images as well as a few others: Imgur Full Gallery

Hope this helps, feel free to post here with any questions and I'll do my best to answer them.

Last edited by leagues58; 04-30-2017 at 11:27 PM.
Appreciate 0
      05-17-2017, 06:39 PM   #2

Drives: 08' 135i
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Las vegas

iTrader: (0)

Do you happen to have a picture of how the interior door handle cable was connected?
I can't seem to get enough tension so that the interior door handle unlocks the door.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply


actuator, actuator problems, door, lock

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:10 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.,,,,,,,,, logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST