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      05-31-2011, 07:20 AM   #23
aacabriolet
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Thanks for the pic.

Well it's bi-xenon so it must have a "shutter". When you flick to high beams, the shutter opens and lets more light out, basically changing the cut off of the D1S to allow more light out, thus becoming the "high beam".

See here:


Now I don't know in your pic if that arrow is the shutter, or some other thing, but it must have a shutter.

What's the Red wire in the bottom of your pic for?

You said you could tap the high beam and low beam wire? Do you mean Shutter wire and Low beam wire?

If you tap the shutter and low beam wires, won't every time your low beams come on, the shutter will open?

You will want to tap the shutter wire to the high beam cable from the FRM Footwell module somehow.
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      05-31-2011, 07:59 AM   #24
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Well then I guess it must be the shutter, cant really see inside very well but it seems to be similar to what is in that video.

So the wires on that shutter are wire 5 on the headlamp socket. So adding a new wire to position 5 on the car socket and splice it with wire 6 should work.
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      05-31-2011, 08:12 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drawn05 View Post
Well then I guess it must be the shutter, cant really see inside very well but it seems to be similar to what is in that video.

So the wires on that shutter are wire 5 on the headlamp socket. So adding a new wire to position 5 on the car socket and splice it with wire 6 should work.
I would think so. But do you really want to splice/tap into stock car wires?

I would rather do it from the inside of the xenon headlight if possible, behind the xenon car connector/socket??

So if possible, add a new wire to empty pin slot #6 of the Xenon Headlamp Socket using the pin contacts i posted one page back? And then splice the shutter wire to this new wire inside the headlight? I dunno though, do you think you can fill the empty pin slot like that from behind the socket?

That way you preserve stock wiring and don't have to modify/splice/tap into stock wires.

What do you think?
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      05-31-2011, 08:27 AM   #26
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I was wanting to work from inside the headlamp but now that I got them it seems very cramped and difficult to work in. Disconnecting the socket inside the headlamp looks like a real PITA. I think adding a wire and using self stripping wire taps would be far easier and wouldnt be very difficult to undo
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      05-31-2011, 08:33 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drawn05 View Post
I was wanting to work from inside the headlamp but now that I got them it seems very cramped and difficult to work in. Disconnecting the socket inside the headlamp looks like a real PITA. I think adding a wire and using self stripping wire taps would be far easier and wouldnt be very difficult to undo
Perhaps you're right. Can't wait to get mine and give it a go! You should try hooking your lights up anyways and see what happens? You dont have to remove the bumper just yet, just rest the headlights in your engine bay and plug the connector out of your halogens in (if it reaches that is). I guess you have to disconnect negative from your battery in the boot while disconnecting/connecting just to be safe though (standard BMW procedure).

Do you think the low beams will come on if you just plug them in, or do you have to connect them to the new ground wire?

Itching to get mine now!! Keep me updated plz

Also keep the thoughts coming, seems like we might be getting somewhere.
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      05-31-2011, 04:49 PM   #28
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Looks like you're making good progress Ari!
Don't forget once it all wired up correctly, you'll need to add in the Xenon retrofit in coding for full functionality.
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      05-31-2011, 04:54 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant@DetailAddict View Post
Looks like you're making good progress Ari!
Don't forget once it all wired up correctly, you'll need to add in the Xenon retrofit in coding for full functionality.
Thanks Don't worry, you will hopefully be sorting that out for me

Are we on the right track in terms of wiring you think? Got any experience with wiring?
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      05-31-2011, 08:44 PM   #30
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Hey guys.

Got directed here by aa. Looks like you guys are doing the halogen to xenon conversion.

My e90 has the conversion and coded it to work like OEM. You guys are on the right track. Gonna read it over and add to it if necessary :-)
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      05-31-2011, 10:53 PM   #31
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Based on the pictures provided by Drawn you will need to tap wire 6 and wire 5 to enable the shutter for high beams. One thing to note, you will need to disable the drls if applicable otherwise the shutter motor will hum constantly. Will keep you posted.
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      05-31-2011, 11:10 PM   #32
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Thanks guys appreciate the thoughts here.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CentralPA E82 View Post
Based on the pictures provided by Drawn you will need to tap wire 6 and wire 5 to enable the shutter for high beams. One thing to note, you will need to disable the drls if applicable otherwise the shutter motor will hum constantly. Will keep you posted.
Thanks for that. That's what we thought. Is that what you did on yours?

Alsojust wondering - why would the shutter motor hum if DRL's are on? Surely they're not linked in terms of wires?

My car doesn't have Automatic headlights at the moment. You said "if applicable". - does that mean I don't have DRL's?

Also how did you wire the low beams? Any wiring modification needed apart from the new ground wire?

Thanks!
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      06-01-2011, 12:03 AM   #33
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I just ordered the contact pin connectors from my local dealer, I have to pick them up tomorrow. What I ordered was:

2 x 0.75mm connector
2 x 1.00mm connector
2 x 1.5-2.5mm connector

I am pretty sure that the one needed for wire 2+4 is 2.5mm but the smaller ones could be either .75 or 1.00 so I got both sizes just in case.
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      06-01-2011, 12:06 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drawn05 View Post
I just ordered the contact pin connectors from my local dealer, I have to pick them up tomorrow. What I ordered was:

2 x 0.75mm connector
2 x 1.00mm connector
2 x 1.5-2.5mm connector

I am pretty sure that the one needed for wire 2+4 is 2.5mm but the smaller ones could be either .75 or 1.00 so I got both sizes just in case.
Cool thanks, I'll order the same. Even though I will have the proper xenon wiring harness in the retrofit kit... But I'm not gonna get all the way to the footwell module to plug that in lol. Well maybe if I knew how I would..

Any specific type of wire you're thinking of using??
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      06-01-2011, 04:09 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aacabriolet View Post
Cool thanks, I'll order the same. Even though I will have the proper xenon wiring harness in the retrofit kit... But I'm not gonna get all the way to the footwell module to plug that in lol. Well maybe if I knew how I would..

Any specific type of wire you're thinking of using??

Sorry aacabriolet for not answering your questions earlier. Out station again.... I can't come in here a lot cause of my work schedule

So to make it up, I got the official retrofit instructions. I hope you find the wiring information useful.

Attached Images
File Type: pdf xenon kit instruction.pdf (1.07 MB, 2430 views)
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      06-01-2011, 04:32 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toto4dwin View Post
Sorry aacabriolet for not answering your questions earlier. Out station again.... I can't come in here a lot cause of my work schedule

So to make it up, I got the official retrofit instructions. I hope you find the wiring information useful.

Toto you are awesome!! Thanks so much. Will def come in handy.

Keep checking back when you have a chance how's the status of your lights?
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      06-01-2011, 06:37 AM   #37
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Hmm ok regarding socket contact size:



Thats from the official retrofit guide that toto kindly posted.

So here are the part numbers I think we should be looking at?? (from http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...=61&fg=15&hl=1)

For Pin #5 (Bi-Xenon Shutter)
08 Socket contact ELO-Power 2,8x0,63 0,35-0,5 MM˛ 61138377162
10 Rubber grommet ELO-Power 2,8x0,63 0,35-1,0MM˛ 61138369722


For Pin #2 (New ground wire)
08 Socket contact ELO-Power 2,8x0,63 1,5-2,5 MM˛ 61138364834
08 Socket contact ELO-Power 2,8x0,63 1,5-2,5 MM˛ 61138369634
08 Socket contact ELO-Power 5,2x0,63 1,5-2,5 MM˛ 61138369642
10 Sealing grommet ELO-Power 5,2x0,63 1,0- 2,5 MM˛ 61138372628

So it's probably one of those, but maybe just order all to be safe??
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      06-01-2011, 11:14 AM   #38
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DRLs on the US cars with halogen use the high beam at a reduced voltage. The problem with a xenon conversion is anything under 12v to the shutter will cause the motor to hum (needs 12v to trigger the open position for high beams). You can disable the DRLs through the turn signal stalk (scroll through the settings for the key icon with a checkmark, select using the button on the end of the stalk, scroll for the headlight icon with the sun like symbol next to it and select the off setting). As a side note, the E82 Euro setup does not use an H7 bulb. The inner bulb you see through the glass is the H8 for the rings.
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      06-01-2011, 12:15 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CentralPA E82 View Post
DRLs on the US cars with halogen use the high beam at a reduced voltage. The problem with a xenon conversion is anything under 12v to the shutter will cause the motor to hum (needs 12v to trigger the open position for high beams). You can disable the DRLs through the turn signal stalk (scroll through the settings for the key icon with a checkmark, select using the button on the end of the stalk, scroll for the headlight icon with the sun like symbol next to it and select the off setting). As a side note, the E82 Euro setup does not use an H7 bulb. The inner bulb you see through the glass is the H8 for the rings.
Aah thanks for that! Makes sense now!

I was wondering what that bulb in the inner projector was! cos it looked like an H7 to me.

So do I not need to worry if I don't have DRL's currently on my car? I have a EURO build.

Thanks!
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      06-01-2011, 12:40 PM   #40
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To AA: the low beams only require the add'l ground wire to work properly (with coding of course). The high beam requires a tap of wire 6 to wire 5.

If we can figure out the coding we are good to go. I have NCS Expert however the OBDII cable I purchased was junk. Waiting to hear back from Autologic before I spend funds on another cable.
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      06-01-2011, 12:56 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CentralPA E82 View Post
To AA: the low beams only require the add'l ground wire to work properly (with coding of course). The high beam requires a tap of wire 6 to wire 5.

If we can figure out the coding we are good to go. I have NCS Expert however the OBDII cable I purchased was junk. Waiting to hear back from Autologic before I spend funds on another cable.
Perfect. Thanks. Is coding only to remove errors?

I ordered this cable which seems to be the one everyone is using. He accepts $90 if you make an offer. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-I...QQcmdZViewItem

It should be arriving in a few weeks. I think coding might be the easy bit somehow

Do your low beams still flicker when you turn the car on? Does it go away or keep flickering?
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      06-01-2011, 01:52 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CentralPA E82 View Post
DRLs on the US cars with halogen use the high beam at a reduced voltage. The problem with a xenon conversion is anything under 12v to the shutter will cause the motor to hum (needs 12v to trigger the open position for high beams). You can disable the DRLs through the turn signal stalk (scroll through the settings for the key icon with a checkmark, select using the button on the end of the stalk, scroll for the headlight icon with the sun like symbol next to it and select the off setting). As a side note, the E82 Euro setup does not use an H7 bulb. The inner bulb you see through the glass is the H8 for the rings.
You sure about the DRL? My halogens have a small (what looks like a 194) bulb that is the DRL, not high beams at reduced voltage.
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      06-01-2011, 03:06 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amancuso View Post
You sure about the DRL? My halogens have a small (what looks like a 194) bulb that is the DRL, not high beams at reduced voltage.
The halogens actually do run the high beam at reduced voltage for the DRLs (if enabled). The small 194 bulb located in the high beam reflector is the city light, or parking light in the U.S. On the HIDs, the corona rings are the city lights...aka parking lights.

There are two versions of the OE HIDs, adaptive and non-adaptive. The adaptive lights (standard U.S. HIDs) do not have a halogen high beam at all and instead have a "cornering" light in place of what would normally be a standard high beam. These lights rely solely on the bi-xenon projector for low- and high beam functions, including the flash-to-pass function. The non-adaptive HIDs (not available in the U.S.) use a standard halogen high beam (albeit, in a projector) in addition to the bi-xenon projector. Whether this is only used for flash-to-pass or if it's also used as a high beam supplement to the bi-xenon projector, I'm uncertain. I'm guessing that the latter is true, as this is common practice on other German makes in Europe and the U.K.; e.g., VW and Audi.

Both versions of the OE HIDs have the corona rings implemented at city/parking lights. That being said, the pics posted in this thread of the back of the headlight assembly are confusing. Are we looking at the adaptive or non-adaptive lights? It would seem, from the bulb layout alone, that we're looking at the adaptive lights as I don't see a bulb for the halogen high beam.
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      06-01-2011, 03:17 PM   #44
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Quote:
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Are we looking at the adaptive or non-adaptive lights? It would seem, from the bulb layout alone, that we're looking at the adaptive lights as I don't see a bulb for the halogen high beam.
I don't know, it's all very confusing to me as well..

From what I understood, the Adaptive has the high beam H7 bulb, and the Bi-Xenon doesn't have the high beam H7 bulb.. But then you say it's the opposite? I guess i'll find out tomorrow when my Bi-Xenons arrive. Will let you know.

You've done the halogen --> Xenon swap haven't you?

Any tips you can add?
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