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      05-30-2015, 12:12 AM   #1
Kkuba
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Unhappy Chrage pipe fail-like symptoms, charge pipe intact

Hi guys,

Car is an 2008 N54 135i MT, with nothing other than a JB4 running map 1, and the DIY-PE mod (link to quick write up)

So, last week I did a coolant flush of my car. Had to remove the intercooler to access the bottom of the radiator of course.

Then a few days ago, a friend was driving, just commuting, no WOT, nothing over 3.5k RPM, but driving over many speed bumps, but being careful as always, no scraping or bottoming-out. From the passenger's seat I noticed the exhaust was louder than usual, I thought that to be strange. Then, the next day, I noticed the car would not make any boost. This was not accompanied by any errors on the dash.

I looked up these symptoms and found them to match charge pipe failure.

So, I thought that either the charge pipe had popped, under the increased boost pressure, or more likely, I didn't reinstall the intercooler correctly, and it had popped off. I assumed this because they are just different sections of the same path, so the symptoms would be similar.

Jacked up the car, removed the undertray, and found the intercooler pipes to be, seemingly, secure. I did not remove the intercooler, but felt confident that everything was good.

So, went on to check the charge pipe. This seems 100% intact and attached correctly. Again, I did not remove it. I could not feel any cracks, but from searching forums, it seems it is always fairly catastrophic failure, and immediately obvious (visually).

Now, just to make sure I am looking at the correct pipe, this is the one that goes to the throttle body, from the next-in-line intercooler pipe, which eventually leads from the intercooler. And has the two recirculation valves coming off it (I assume this to be what are referred to the diverter valves) and one other large, funny-looking mechanism in between the two diverter valves, which I am not exactly sure what purpose it serves (out of curiosity, what is this?) It looks like a large diverter valve that vents into the engine bay...

Now I'm stumped. Looking for ideas as to what would be the next thing to check? All other IC pipes look to be intact. Car has never exhibited wastegate rattle, so I am reluctant to think that it has anything to do with this. It was boosting fine up until it happened - admittedly, I had not gone WOT for a week or two prior, but car sounded and behaved normally otherwise.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance guys!

EDIT: also, just took it for a drive, to see if I can diagnose further. Car was not yet at 70 deg C, but I was not in a position to wait any further for it to warm up, so it had not yet flicked over to high boost. 1st gear, WOT, I was getting about 5 psi max (according to guage highjacking). Also, I was given a half engine light after a second gear pull. Came back to check the code, and it has given me 30FF, but I am pretty sure I had this issue ever since installing the JB4, once in a while, high load, low revs, 2nd gear or higher, WOT, it would throw this light, I have never been able to figure this out. The difference this time is, it didn't shift into map 4, like it always did in the past, possibly because it wasn't technically running map 1 yet?

Last edited by Kkuba; 05-30-2015 at 03:48 AM.
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      05-30-2015, 09:02 AM   #2
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Can you check the codes using your JB4?

Also, might be worthwhile posting some photos of your charge pipe and diverter valves. The more the better. It could be that one of your diverter valves has popped off? And did you check the factory c-clips were locked in securely for the FMIC when you put it back together?
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      05-31-2015, 07:30 AM   #3
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A mate of mine is having the same code with a seemingly fine charge pipe and DV's so eager to know your outcome.
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      05-31-2015, 08:42 AM   #4
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There are so many things that could go wrong which will give you this error and no boost doesn't necessarily be a boost leak.

Without the proper tools and know how its only going to be a guessing game.

Do the usual visual inspection after that you have to visit a workshop.

Have you got a vacuum gauge, have you inspected all the vacuum lines that start behind the oil filter and lead to the canisters to the solenoids to the turbos.
Have you checked if the boost solenoids operate properly, even if not they wont give you an error fault code just the dreaded under boost error.

Have you done a vacuum leak test.

Have you inspected all the couplings on the intake, have you inspected the intercooler for cracks.
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      06-01-2015, 06:17 AM   #5
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Hi guys, thanks again for the replies.

JB4, through dash controls still only gives one code:

30FF

So, today, I ran an OBD checker, and auto scan came back with an issue with the DME (not sure what this is, is this German for ECU?), then I did a code read (separate function) it gave me these 7 codes:






661D - Can't find anything on this one.

0428 - web search gives me this
Quote:
The Engine Control Module (ECM) monitors the switching frequency ratio of heated oxygen sensors 1 (front O2 sensor) and heated oxygen sensors 2 (rear O2 sensor).

A three way catalyst converter (Manifold) with high oxygen storage capacity will indicate a low switching frequency of heated oxygen sensor 2. As oxygen storage capacity decreases, the heated oxygen sensor 2 switching frequency will increase.

When the frequency ratio of heated oxygen sensors 1 and 2 approaches a specified limit value, the three way catalyst malfunction is diagnosed.
0034 - web search gives me this:
Quote:
Bmw 135i P0034 OBD-II Diagnostic Powertrain (P) Trouble Code Description

Bmw 135i car P0034 OBD-II Trouble Code Turbocharger/Supercharger Bypass Valve Control Circuit Low is the generic definition for the P0034; however your vehicles manufacturer may have a different definition and information for the P0034 cod
Reason For Bmw 135i P0034 Code

The reason of Bmw 135i P0034 OBD-II Engine Trouble Code is P0034 Turbocharger Bypass Valve Control Circuit Low.
0080 - web search gives me this:
Quote:
P0080 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High B1
080B - Can't find anything.

0400 - web search returns this:
Quote:
Bmw 135i P0400 OBD-II Diagnostic Powertrain (P) Trouble Code Description

Bmw 135i car P0400 OBD-II Trouble Code Early Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) systems component s include and EGR Valve, and Engine Control Μodule (ECΜ) Controlled Vacuum Switch Valve or EGR Solenoid and an EGR Vacuum Μodulator. Dependin
Reason For Bmw 135i P0400 Code

The reason of Bmw 135i P0400 OBD-II Engine Trouble Code is P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction.
E30D - Can't find anything.

Any ideas? Is this a buggered ECU?
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      06-01-2015, 06:28 AM   #6
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Save your self the head ache and take it to a reputable shop.

If you believe its a boost leak ring around to find out if the shop has a smoke tester
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      06-01-2015, 09:12 PM   #7
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Can you see an oily residue at any of the chargepipe connections? Like the connections to the DV, throttle body or lower charge pipe? N54s always end up with oil in the intake tract and any intake leaks show up as oil weeping from the connection points.

If you're the DIY type of guy then you really need to get the right tools. For diagnostics, you need to get an install of BMW INPA on a laptop with the right obdii cable.

I am using this one:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INPA-EDIA...item5b1047df6b

You probably won't get far diagnosing this without a boost leak tester. I just recently made one with a 2.5" silicone hose that is plugged with a cap with air fitting. If you don't have an air compressor then you can use a shraeder valve instead and use a bicycle pump.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193077

You will want to plug the tester into the hot side of the intercooler, pressurize the system and check for leaks.
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      06-01-2015, 11:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl View Post
Can you see an oily residue at any of the chargepipe connections? Like the connections to the DV, throttle body or lower charge pipe? N54s always end up with oil in the intake tract and any intake leaks show up as oil weeping from the connection points.

If you're the DIY type of guy then you really need to get the right tools. For diagnostics, you need to get an install of BMW INPA on a laptop with the right obdii cable.

I am using this one:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INPA-EDIA...item5b1047df6b

You probably won't get far diagnosing this without a boost leak tester. I just recently made one with a 2.5" silicone hose that is plugged with a cap with air fitting. If you don't have an air compressor then you can use a shraeder valve instead and use a bicycle pump.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193077

You will want to plug the tester into the hot side of the intercooler, pressurize the system and check for leaks.
No, I don't see any oily residue. I am about 95% convinced (given the fault codes that are appearing) that this is not a boost leak issue, but a boost control issue, or something else more sinister like that.

I am definitely the DIY kind of person, this will not be going to a shop, until all avenues of fix have been exhausted by me - I have yet to pay for labour on any car that I have owned, and I want to keep it that way .

You mention BMW INPA, will this give me more information that the Autel I have posted of photos above? What about the JB4 through the USB cable? I have not connected it to the computer yet, but the INPA give me any more information that these two things?

I have an air compressor, and all the know-how of making a fitting, but I just don't think it's a boost leak at this point.

Today, I will be removing the JB4, to see if perhaps one of the connectors has worked its way loose, maybe over all those speed bumps...
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      06-02-2015, 01:40 AM   #9
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Get the jb4 software installed on a laptop and pull a log, you'll be able to see what is happening

You need to test the vacuum on your canisters and check their operation the only way to do that is with a vacuum gauge

I very much doubt it's the jb4 connections

If it was the connections the car would not run

Pull a log and post it up
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      06-02-2015, 02:20 AM   #10
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INPA Will help you diagnose the ECU a bit better, if you can find Rheingold it will allow you to run full diag on the ECU and even run a hard reset on it yourself. Usually fixes most ECU issues i find. Rheingold isnt the easiest to come by though.
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      06-02-2015, 06:44 PM   #11
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INPA is on a another level of diagnostics. It shows you a code and description but also includes the odo reading, ambient conditions, rpm etc. Also keeps a log of the previous errors and km reading when they occurred. Every module on the vehicle has an error memory and history memory. The generic scan tools will really only pick up the current errors and not be able to display the history stuff.

The output testing is very useful for fault finding and basically allows you to actuate/read most outputs/inputs of every module in the car.

I was thinking about your original post where you said the exhaust was louder than usual. If the wastegates were open, the exhaust would become quite loud (as the turbos muffle quite a lot of the sound). The Procede piggyback I have has a N/A mode where it will leave the wastegates open and produce no boost. The car is very loud (you get massive pops out of the exhaust with a downpipe) and its very slow. Most likely a wastegate/vacuum issue
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      06-02-2015, 10:16 PM   #12
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Just went through a boost leak issue myself and it was a frustrating time of spending ages searching for things under the hood, then conducting logs to see if it had been remedied and then back again checking changing more things and more logs.

Obviously attempt to replace all vac lines, check you canisters (they apparently can break on the nipples) swap boost solenoids over from a car you know they work on (if possible - I have a set I could possibly loan to you) and also hows the o ring on the charge pipe?

I've heard of that o ring being the cause of a boost leak. A handy tip is you can use a N54 oil filter o ring on the chargepipe to replace that. I do regular 5000 kay oil changes so i just used the ring from my oil filter kit so the next time i do an oil change i'll just reuse the 'old' o ring.

I spent hours and hours buggering around over a period of 4 weeks or so, ended up taking my car to advan performance who discovered that the BOV was the cause of the leak as the rubber diaphragm contained within the BOV assembly was blown and leaking...
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      06-02-2015, 11:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martymil View Post
Get the jb4 software installed on a laptop and pull a log, you'll be able to see what is happening

You need to test the vacuum on your canisters and check their operation the only way to do that is with a vacuum gauge

I very much doubt it's the jb4 connections

If it was the connections the car would not run

Pull a log and post it up
I thought perhaps one pin had come loose in the harness, but I know.. I'm clutching at straws here..

I have found the vac test guide, and I will be performing this as soon as I can get my hands on a gauge.

Any suggestions as to which parameters I should be logging, other than the pre-selected ones?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Superdaws View Post
INPA Will help you diagnose the ECU a bit better, if you can find Rheingold it will allow you to run full diag on the ECU and even run a hard reset on it yourself. Usually fixes most ECU issues i find. Rheingold isnt the easiest to come by though.
What is Rheingold? Is this a PC application that communicates with the ECU via OBD? Is it something I can torrent?
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      06-03-2015, 06:47 AM   #14
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If you can post up a log we can have a look and see what is happening, it logs all the parameters regardless.

Get your self a vac gun / gauge that way you can test your waste gates to see if they are leaking

Vac gun you can actually create vacuum to check if the lines are leaking

When you test your canisters you should see the same vacuum at the waste gate, the best way to see if both solenoids are getting the same vacuum read is to disconnect the balance pipe between the solenoids and install two seperate pipes so you can read the output separately and not combined

It can be a tricky process without a vacuum gun

You can get a good one for about 80 bucks from Bursons

Last edited by martymil; 06-05-2015 at 04:55 AM.
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      06-03-2015, 08:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kkuba View Post
What is Rheingold? Is this a PC application that communicates with the ECU via OBD? Is it something I can torrent?
Rheingold is a program name for dealer software of ISTA/D and ISTA/P. If your familiar with INPA setup and features, it is the far newer equivalent with more in it. ISTA/D is the diagnostics and allows DME resets etc, ISTA/P is the car programming side (but is a massive in size). Its not a "free" tool like INPA, but im sure some people have it, have a read of google if you think it might help.
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