BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      08-25-2014, 11:49 AM   #1
DSCPLN
Alpine White
DSCPLN's Avatar
United_States
16
Rep
274
Posts

Drives: BMW 1M
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Boston MA

iTrader: (0)

1M Track/Autocross Tire Setup w/ 19" OEM Wheels

I've searched the 1M forums for hours on end for the past few days.. with no luck. The topic of ideal Tire/Wheel setups seems to be a never-ending debate among the 1M community here.

This is somewhat of a unique inquiry/objective, so let me clarify:

Objective: I know I'm really limiting myself by staying OEM, but I want to maintain the BMW 1M OEM look as much as possible - keeping the Style 359 19" wheel setup - while giving the car better grip when putting power on turns. I can entertain the idea of ordering an extra set of rear OEM wheels to replace the front, but I'm not sure about its fitting.

Current Setup:
(2) Front Wheels - 19x9" ET31 (25.4 LBS, 31mm offset) - BMW Part # 36-11-2-284-055
(2) Rear Wheels - 19x10" ET25 (26.6 LBS, 25mm offset) - BMW Pat # 36-11-2-284-060
on Michelin Pilot Super Sports: Front 245/35-19, Rear 265/35-19


What are your recommendations?:
Staggered vs. Squared? Tire Size Setup?

Last edited by DSCPLN; 08-25-2014 at 12:01 PM.
Appreciate 0
      08-25-2014, 12:46 PM   #2
M3 Adjuster
Brigadier General
107
Rep
3,872
Posts

Drives: 1988 M3 gone .. 1M HERE!!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dallas, Tx

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by DSCPLN
I've searched the 1M forums for hours on end for the past few days.. with no luck. The topic of ideal Tire/Wheel setups seems to be a never-ending debate among the 1M community here.

This is somewhat of a unique inquiry/objective, so let me clarify:

Objective: I know I'm really limiting myself by staying OEM, but I want to maintain the BMW 1M OEM look as much as possible - keeping the Style 359 19" wheel setup - while giving the car better grip when putting power on turns. I can entertain the idea of ordering an extra set of rear OEM wheels to replace the front, but I'm not sure about its fitting.

Current Setup:
(2) Front Wheels - 19x9" ET31 (25.4 LBS, 31mm offset) - BMW Part # 36-11-2-284-055
(2) Rear Wheels - 19x10" ET25 (26.6 LBS, 25mm offset) - BMW Pat # 36-11-2-284-060
on Michelin Pilot Super Sports: Front 245/35-19, Rear 265/35-19


What are your recommendations?:
Staggered vs. Squared? Tire Size Setup?
I have run the following setups.

A- stock 19" - 20 mm OE staggered setup (245 front/265 rear)
B- stock 19" - 30 mm staggered setup (245 front and 275/30/19 rear
C- 275/35/18 square setup
D- 285/30/18 square setup
E- aftermarket 18" - 30 mm staggered setup (285/30/18 on 18x10 front and 315/30/18 on 18 x10.5 rear)

From my experience using the above.. (IMHO) unless you are competing, a square setup is best for the following reasons

1- chassis has inherent understeer - more tire and/or camber plates needed up front
2- rotating wheels and tires at all 4 positions helps trememdously with wear
3- if you do swap tires, being able to grab any wheel and put it on any corner is always nice

The OEM wheel and 265/35/19 tire from the rear WILL fit on the front of the car. The tire will rub the front fender liner in parking maneuvers... not sure about with the revised inner fender liners. It's a minor rub. I didnt drive this way for a long time, but i did drive more than a hundred or so highway miles. If you wanted to remove any rubbing issues you could perhaps use the 10" wheels from the rear and run a little narrower tire like a 255 up front.


As a matter of fact.. I really wonder why BMW bothered to put different wheels and tires on the car... ?
My ANSWER (to my own rhetorical question) - A: to create understeer so that less drivers crash the car!

Owners of the E36 M3, E46 M3 and E90 M3 and have been taking apart staggered setups to make them into square setups for the last several decades. Most commonly.. drivers of these other M3 models would buy a set of stagered wheels and sell off the set of four " fronts" giving them a setup with 4 "rear" wheels. And of course, the original M3.. ( the E30 M3) came from the factory with a square setup.

The only reason that I can think of for a wider rear tire is to reduce wheelspin at the rear. On the E30, E36, E46 and E90... there is never really an issue of the motor completely overpowering the rear tires. However.. with the torque from turbos in the 1M and now the new M4... Stock cars can still spin the rears easily... let alone cars with a tune.. so a 285 or even 295 tire can help put the power down. If you are competing for time... then you likely will want to maximize grip.. therefore a larger rear tire will help.

A big reason to go with aftermarket wheels is that you can fit a larger tire up front.. A 275 or even a 285 will fit on the car on an apex ARC-8 wheel (18x 10, ET 22) Not sure about 19... but a 275/35/18 or even 285/30/18 can fit all around.

A second big reason to go with aftermarket 8" wheels is that more " R" tire sizes are available in 18" sizes, and they are cheaper than their 19" counterparts. mattm has fit 19" hoosier tires... and Petevb has fit 19" Michelin pilot Sport cup 2.... the pirelli Trofeo R is an option outside the US.

Aside from minor fitment issues.. there's no reason to not do do the same as many E36 and E46 owners and source OEM rear wheels and put them on the front.
__________________
Lone Star BMW CCA Chapter president, Chief Driving Instructor


Check out my photos of my West Texas driving tour here.. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1115740

Last edited by M3 Adjuster; 08-25-2014 at 03:07 PM.
Appreciate 1
      08-25-2014, 02:28 PM   #3
DSCPLN
Alpine White
DSCPLN's Avatar
United_States
16
Rep
274
Posts

Drives: BMW 1M
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Boston MA

iTrader: (0)

M3 Adjuster!: I am so glad to have caught your attention to this thread.
As a 1M Owner + BMWCCA Driving Instructor! I really appreciate your advice!


Quote:
unless you are competing, a square setup is best
Curious on your preface of "unless you are competing?"..
I just want to have a decent setup to do well, but not necessarily National-competitive level.


What 19" tire sizes would you recommend for a square setup (w/ no rubbing issues)?

What 19" tire sizes would you recommend for a staggered setup (w/ no rubbing issues)?

Would reducing the sidewall from 265/35/19 to 265/30/19 reduce the rubbing concern on the front?
Appreciate 0
      08-25-2014, 04:08 PM   #4
ayao
Thread killer
17
Rep
737
Posts

Drives: 1M
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CA

iTrader: (1)

Just as an added data point, a little while back I testfit a stock M3 18" rear (265/40/18) on the front and it rubbed loudly starting at ~ 50% lock. It wasn't subtle. This was on revised liners and -2.5 camber.

That tire size is just about equivalent in diameter to a 265/35/19, so I'd be cautious putting stock 1M rears up front, if you think rub will bother you.

A 265/30/19 is about 0.5" shorter than a stock 245/35/19 and about 1" shorter than a 265/35/19 ... so I think you'd be ok on rub -- however the caveat is that I don't know if the decreased tire diameter on a 265/30 will negatively impact driving dynamics, DSC, etc in other unforeseen ways.

Are you looking for a tire that fulfills both street and track duty? Something else to consider would be hitting up Apex for some advice on their 19" EC-7s which look pretty close to stock. They're doing a free shipping deal through the end of the month.

Last edited by ayao; 08-25-2014 at 04:14 PM.
Appreciate 0
      08-25-2014, 05:51 PM   #5
DSCPLN
Alpine White
DSCPLN's Avatar
United_States
16
Rep
274
Posts

Drives: BMW 1M
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Boston MA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ayao View Post
Something else to consider would be hitting up Apex for some advice on their 19" EC-7s which look pretty close to stock.
Wow, they really do.. Thanks for the recommendation!
Will probably order them once I figure out what tire size setup I want.
Appreciate 0
      08-25-2014, 05:56 PM   #6
Pete_vB
Captain
Pete_vB's Avatar
United_States
27
Rep
862
Posts

Drives: '69 GT3, 1M, 912, R32
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SF Bay Area, Shenzhen, Oman

iTrader: (0)

You didn't find consensus through a search because there are a lot of opinions and many different specific situations.

In your case I'm not sure I agree with a square setup unless you're willing to make sacrifices and dump the stock wheels. The same diameters front and rear will mess with the stock DSC settings, ideally requiring reprogramming. The ABS calibration will also get thrown. Rubbing will be an issue. Upsides: you'll see less understeer and will be able to rotate tires- how critical is that to you really?

You don't mention how experienced you are, how fast you need to go, or how price sensitive you are. That said I'd probably suggest you stick with stock sizes- with the right rubber you'll have tons of grip- and choose based on budget/ wear. In order, slow to fast and expensive to very expensive (and these are all both fast end expensive):
Yoko AD-08Rs
PSC2s
Trofeo Rs (these are available in the US through Bob Woodman Tires)

However those last two are probably too sticky for stock suspension, both alignment and spring rate, so unless you're serious enough to make setup changes I'd go with the AD-08Rs. $.02.
__________________
1M, 1969 Porsche 911 w/ 997 GT3 Cup Motor (435hp & 2,100 lbs)
Appreciate 0
      08-25-2014, 06:17 PM   #7
DSCPLN
Alpine White
DSCPLN's Avatar
United_States
16
Rep
274
Posts

Drives: BMW 1M
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Boston MA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete_vB View Post
You didn't find consensus through a search because there are a lot of opinions and many different specific situations.
You're right.

It seems as if every 1M driver has their own unique situation, and there aren't enough performance driver 1M's out there to provide a definitive consensus of what "the best (tire/wheel) setup" is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete_vB View Post
You don't mention how experienced you are, how fast you need to go, or how price sensitive you are.
Intermediate. By fast, I wantws better grip on acceleration. I recently spun out due to oversteer at a track, and I wanted to make sure that doesn't happen again - which I'm aware, also requires some practice. I'm fairly price insensitive as long as I can stay close to the OEM look.

As I mentioned earlier, I'm currently riding on Michelin Pilot Super Sports: Front 245/35-19, Rear 265/35-19

Last edited by DSCPLN; 08-25-2014 at 06:24 PM.
Appreciate 0
      08-25-2014, 06:43 PM   #8
Pete_vB
Captain
Pete_vB's Avatar
United_States
27
Rep
862
Posts

Drives: '69 GT3, 1M, 912, R32
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SF Bay Area, Shenzhen, Oman

iTrader: (0)

Describe the circumstances of your spin? Were you driving with DSC off, corner speed and shape, throttle, etc? Tires are not a cure-all, but they can help in some situations...
__________________
1M, 1969 Porsche 911 w/ 997 GT3 Cup Motor (435hp & 2,100 lbs)
Appreciate 0
      08-25-2014, 08:23 PM   #9
DSCPLN
Alpine White
DSCPLN's Avatar
United_States
16
Rep
274
Posts

Drives: BMW 1M
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Boston MA

iTrader: (0)

I guess we're going slightly off-topic, but to answer your question:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete_vB View Post
Describe the circumstances of your spin? Were you driving with DSC off, corner speed and shape, throttle, etc? Tires are not a cure-all, but they can help in some situations...
At Autocross, I drive with DSC completely off and I'm 100% comfortable with it.

This was my first time at Thompson Speedway in CT (track goes clockwise) and I had DSC completely off.



The spin out was at Turn 6 (follow the red lined course).

I went in too tight, trail braking, and gave it throttle before getting straight - resulting in a leftward 180 degree spin out. Scared the sh*t out of me and resumed the rest of the NASA HPDE day in MDM (M Dynamic Mode).
Appreciate 0
      08-25-2014, 09:51 PM   #10
TXmtrhed
First Lieutenant
TXmtrhed's Avatar
4
Rep
351
Posts

Drives: VO 1M
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Katy, TX

iTrader: (0)

From your description and since you want to drive on street tires I would suggest you save some money, stay with your current rubber and learn to drive at the limit of your current tires before upgrading. Don't make the mistake of upgrading your tires above your track skills. It just makes it harder to feel the car moving under you and makes unrecoverable mistakes happen at higher speeds. With experience you'll be able to anticipate and recognize the rotation faster and catch it. Gotta have quick hands to drive these cars!
__________________
Appreciate 0
      08-26-2014, 01:51 AM   #11
M3 Adjuster
Brigadier General
107
Rep
3,872
Posts

Drives: 1988 M3 gone .. 1M HERE!!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dallas, Tx

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed
From your description and since you want to drive on street tires I would suggest you save some money, stay with your current rubber and learn to drive at the limit of your current tires before upgrading. Don't make the mistake of upgrading your tires above your track skills. It just makes it harder to feel the car moving under you and makes unrecoverable mistakes happen at higher speeds. With experience you'll be able to anticipate and recognize the rotation faster and catch it. Gotta have quick hands to drive these cars!
Sage advice indeed.

The 1M is definitely a car that requires quick hands, and a snap oversteer situation can definitely result! If this was your first time at this particular track then as long as you realized your error then I would work your way back up to removing the DSC on that course.


I also recommend the ad08r as a better DE tire than the pilot super sports.


PS. There's no shame in hustling the car around in M dynamic mode. If you are smooth you can really keep the dsc from intervening much and find you can really drive pretty damn quickly with it on.

I pretty much start with MDM on until I know the track surface. At a new track I would definitely put the car in MDM for several sessions to learn the course.
__________________
Lone Star BMW CCA Chapter president, Chief Driving Instructor


Check out my photos of my West Texas driving tour here.. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1115740
Appreciate 0
      08-26-2014, 02:38 AM   #12
Ro1M
Private
Ro1M's Avatar
Australia
2
Rep
94
Posts

Drives: VO 1M, SBM XC60 T6 Polestar
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Melbourne

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Adjuster
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXmtrhed
From your description and since you want to drive on street tires I would suggest you save some money, stay with your current rubber and learn to drive at the limit of your current tires before upgrading. Don't make the mistake of upgrading your tires above your track skills. It just makes it harder to feel the car moving under you and makes unrecoverable mistakes happen at higher speeds. With experience you'll be able to anticipate and recognize the rotation faster and catch it. Gotta have quick hands to drive these cars!
Sage advice indeed.

The 1M is definitely a car that requires quick hands, and a snap oversteer situation can definitely result! If this was your first time at this particular track then as long as you realized your error then I would work your way back up to removing the DSC on that course.


I also recommend the ad08r as a better DE tire than the pilot super sports.


PS. There's no shame in hustling the car around in M dynamic mode. If you are smooth you can really keep the dsc from intervening much and find you can really drive pretty damn quickly with it on.

I pretty much start with MDM on until I know the track surface. At a new track I would definitely put the car in MDM for several sessions to learn the course.
Agree with the comments re both maximising your driving in PSS and driving smoothly with MDM on. It can catch a little in ripples but if you're smooth it should stay away until you really need it.
__________________
Stock times:
Phillip Island: 1.54.88
Sandown: 1.25.86
Calder Park: 1.08.76
Winton: 1.41.90
Appreciate 0
      08-26-2014, 08:59 AM   #13
lcrain
Captain
14
Rep
844
Posts

Drives: e36 m3, TT-RS
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Dallas, TX

iTrader: (1)

Unless you "upgrade" to 18s, you really don't have a ton of options with the stock wheels that are going to be a marked improvement over stock. If you see yourself doing auto-x/hpde long term (more than a couple times a year) then I think it would be well worth your while to get square 18s, some extreme summers (hankook rs3, dunlop z2, and the like). This way you can rotate and really get some good wear out of them.

Otherwise you are stuck with some decent options that would perform better than the super sports. My choice would be the Bridgestone RE-11 in stock sizes. Great tires that are less sensitive to minute temp changes, very stiff sidewall and they grip very well. No experience with the yokohama ad-08r, the michelin pilot sport cup 2s, or the pirelli trofeo. These are all pretty pricey and I would simply not spend that much for marginal grip advantages that may or may not be present. If you stay staggered, you will continue to understeer, if you add camber plates and a square setup you will nearly eliminate it and make the car very eager to turn-in (and also get the tail out).
Appreciate 0
      08-26-2014, 08:59 AM   #14
DSCPLN
Alpine White
DSCPLN's Avatar
United_States
16
Rep
274
Posts

Drives: BMW 1M
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Boston MA

iTrader: (0)

Thanks for the candid advice/feedback guys!

I'll keep learning on the current stock tire sizes + PSS setup, until I have a more firm grip of the car's power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lcrain View Post
Unless you "upgrade" to 18s, you really don't have a ton of options with the stock wheels that are going to be a marked improvement over stock. If you see yourself doing auto-x/hpde long term (more than a couple times a year) then I think it would be well worth your while to get square 18s, some extreme summers (hankook rs3, dunlop z2, and the like).
^ I think that sums up the debate over getting better performance from current stock wheel setup. Thanks!

Last edited by DSCPLN; 08-26-2014 at 09:05 AM.
Appreciate 0
      08-26-2014, 12:55 PM   #15
Pete_vB
Captain
Pete_vB's Avatar
United_States
27
Rep
862
Posts

Drives: '69 GT3, 1M, 912, R32
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SF Bay Area, Shenzhen, Oman

iTrader: (0)

RE-11s are good too. Be aware that you'll heat cycle your PSS out pretty quickly as you track them, and towards the end of their life breakaway gets far more abrupt, exactly what you're trying to avoid.

You might read through this thread if you haven't seen it, I suspect you may have been caught out by a similar issue:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1003523

Also be aware that you can upgrade to euro MDM coding for about $100- it allows a little more slip, if the stock MDM is bugging you.

Final thought- understeer/ oversteer on a staggered or square setup is very tire dependent. Dunlop Sport Maxx Race in stock sizes understeer terribly staggered, even with camber plates up front. Pilot Sport Cup 2s, on the other hand, are very neutral, nearly ideally balanced for lap time. YMMV.
__________________
1M, 1969 Porsche 911 w/ 997 GT3 Cup Motor (435hp & 2,100 lbs)
Appreciate 0
      08-27-2014, 02:31 PM   #16
Die ///M Rakete
Lieutenant
United_States
45
Rep
443
Posts

Drives: F30 328i M-Sport
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Dallas, TX

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete_vB View Post
Also be aware that you can upgrade to euro MDM coding for about $100- it allows a little more slip, if the stock MDM is bugging you.
I can't believe I've never heard of this! I deactivate the DSC religiously but this sounds like it could be a tolerable compromise under certain...err "high pucker factor" conditions. Any experience with it?
Appreciate 0
      08-27-2014, 02:48 PM   #17
MDORPHN
Colonel
60
Rep
2,694
Posts

Drives: AW 1M
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wash, DC

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by EIN M View Post
I can't believe I've never heard of this! I deactivate the DSC religiously but this sounds like it could be a tolerable compromise under certain...err "high pucker factor" conditions. Any experience with it?
I've had the Euro MDM setting for a couple of years. Way less intrusive, though I've only used it a couple of times on track -- both when it was very wet.

Neil
Appreciate 0
      08-27-2014, 03:06 PM   #18
ayao
Thread killer
17
Rep
737
Posts

Drives: 1M
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CA

iTrader: (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by EIN M View Post
I can't believe I've never heard of this! I deactivate the DSC religiously but this sounds like it could be a tolerable compromise under certain...err "high pucker factor" conditions. Any experience with it?
Google "m3post euroMDM" ... A bunch of threads on that.
It allows more slip angle and with a heavy foot will let you spin in the wet.
Appreciate 0
      08-28-2014, 12:56 PM   #19
DSCPLN
Alpine White
DSCPLN's Avatar
United_States
16
Rep
274
Posts

Drives: BMW 1M
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Boston MA

iTrader: (0)

For the purposes of this thread and as a potential future upgrade..

Can anyone confirm if 265/35/19 Front and 285/35/19 Rear will fit comfortably (without rubbing)?
or do the sidewalls need to be reduced to 30?
Attached Images
 

Last edited by DSCPLN; 08-28-2014 at 02:29 PM.
Appreciate 0
      08-28-2014, 04:28 PM   #20
M3 Adjuster
Brigadier General
107
Rep
3,872
Posts

Drives: 1988 M3 gone .. 1M HERE!!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dallas, Tx

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by EIN M
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete_vB View Post
Also be aware that you can upgrade to euro MDM coding for about $100- it allows a little more slip, if the stock MDM is bugging you.
I can't believe I've never heard of this! I deactivate the DSC religiously but this sounds like it could be a tolerable compromise under certain...err "high pucker factor" conditions. Any experience with it?

Highly recommended for experienced track and autocross drivers.


For the casual driver..

I personally don't " deactivate DSC religiously. ". I don't find the need to get the car sideways every time I drive it. I don't need even ordinary MDM for a commute drive. If I'm gonna go on a tour or a spirited drive then I will turn on MDM. If you are a casual driver that feels that MDM is not enough for your play on the street..

Caveat emptor: I think euro MDM might allow too much slip angle for driving on the street for the casual or novice driver. There is the fall back to the original full dsc on, but if for street drivers that don't want DSC on and have to use MDM daily... my personal opinion is that the higher slip angles could get some drivers over their head quickly on the street. A novice or casual driver should NOT be running this car with DSC off on the street.
__________________
Lone Star BMW CCA Chapter president, Chief Driving Instructor


Check out my photos of my West Texas driving tour here.. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1115740

Last edited by M3 Adjuster; 08-28-2014 at 05:06 PM.
Appreciate 0
      08-28-2014, 04:33 PM   #21
M3 Adjuster
Brigadier General
107
Rep
3,872
Posts

Drives: 1988 M3 gone .. 1M HERE!!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dallas, Tx

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by DSCPLN
For the purposes of this thread and as a potential future upgrade..

Can anyone confirm if 265/35/19 Front and 285/35/19 Rear will fit comfortably (without rubbing)?
or do the sidewalls need to be reduced to 30?

You are getting into very specific info.

1- excellent that you have the tire specs...

2- keep in mind that tire manufacturers specs are like specs for shoes.
A " Nike" size 10 is not the same as a " Reebok" Size 10.. is not the same as a ....
In other words.. the width or height of a Yokohama may not match a Michelin due to variances in tire construction.

3- Tire specs should only be considered consistent when comparing specs within the same manufacturer's model tires.

4- Just because the manufacturer lists dimensions in their spec... doesn't mean that they are what the actual dimensions will be once the tire is on YOUR wheel... Keep in mind that all specs come with an indicated " recommended Range of Rim width ." The specs are going to vary based on the rim size that was used when the tire measurements were done. Sometimes manufacturers will indicate the exact rim width used to determine the specs..and some do not give you any clue at all other than recommended range.

6- Within this forum, some drivers have reported that a 255/35 Michelin PSS will fit. Others have indicated that they have some rubbing. note the 26.02 in diameter is taller than the OE size which is 25.75. This explains why some people have experienced issues with rubbbing in the 255/35 size.

7- The 265/35/19 OE tire and wheel combo WILL RUB. Clearly.. the diameter of the tire is highest at 26.30 in. This is what causes it to rub, not the width. This tall tire will hit the fender liner in front of the tire or could also make contact aft (rearward) of the tire. The only question is can you tolerate it. If you drive the car daily.. it's *definitely* gonna rub way too much.

OK.. so..knowing all of the above.. and recognizing that there can be variances across manufacturers.. I would say that the SAFEST, widest, option would be to go 265/30/19. It has the same width as the OE rear tire at 265/35/19.... but it's also much shorter.

I have some 275/30/19s on the rear now.. I might be tempted to put them on front for grins just to see. they are definitely shorter than the stock rear tire.
__________________
Lone Star BMW CCA Chapter president, Chief Driving Instructor


Check out my photos of my West Texas driving tour here.. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1115740

Last edited by M3 Adjuster; 08-28-2014 at 05:08 PM.
Appreciate 0
      08-29-2014, 08:04 AM   #22
DSCPLN
Alpine White
DSCPLN's Avatar
United_States
16
Rep
274
Posts

Drives: BMW 1M
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Boston MA

iTrader: (0)

^ Thank you so much. That just about answers everything I needed to know

And for personal reference:

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattm View Post
I've been running Hoosiers A6s in the following sizes:
265/35-19 They rub the liners a little bit.
315/30-19 in the rear. The clear without contact.
OEM wheel sizes but with a " offset increase all the way around
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=33

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZIPNBYE View Post
I'm running Toyo Proxes T1-Sport in 265-30-R19 front and 295-30-R19 rear on the oem Style 359M wheels...no problem. No rub in the front at all (fender liners) and only on hard compression in the right-rear (bolt head for the rear bumper cap to 1/4 panel fitting). Fantastic look and great feel.
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=26

Last edited by DSCPLN; 09-01-2014 at 06:06 PM.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:11 PM.




1addicts
1addicts
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST