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      08-28-2012, 03:51 PM   #23
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Thank you! This was very helpful.
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      02-06-2013, 03:28 PM   #24
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I know this is probably going to sound stupid as hell; but how do you get the oil filler cap off? I keep twisting and it wont come off... It looks as if there is a tab on the cap but I don't want to break it...
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      02-06-2013, 04:06 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by 011100001 View Post
I know this is probably going to sound stupid as hell; but how do you get the oil filler cap off? I keep twisting and it wont come off... It looks as if there is a tab on the cap but I don't want to break it...
No tab, should be just like opening a bottle. Anti clockwise
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      02-06-2013, 04:14 PM   #26
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Ok, That's what my service adviser said. I just seems to keep spinning and not coming off.
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      02-06-2013, 05:35 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by 011100001 View Post
Ok, That's what my service adviser said. I just seems to keep spinning and not coming off.
Try pushing down or lifting up while unscrewing
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      02-07-2013, 12:48 PM   #28
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Wait, your 2010 is n55? I thought 2011 started n55.
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      02-07-2013, 05:02 PM   #29
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Wait, your 2010 is n55? I thought 2011 started n55.
No, May 2010 is when N55s started
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      02-07-2013, 06:44 PM   #30
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No, May 2010 is when N55s started
Oh! Awesome! I didn't know that!
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      02-07-2013, 06:50 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 011100001 View Post
I know this is probably going to sound stupid as hell; but how do you get the oil filler cap off? I keep twisting and it wont come off... It looks as if there is a tab on the cap but I don't want to break it...
The oil filter cartridge just snaps onto the oil filter cap. Its normal for it to spin on the cap. First i drain the engine oil from the pan. Then I crack open the filter cap(but don't remove it!)... I let the oil level drain from the filter housing. Then I remove the oil filter cap and cartridge and remove it on a work bench lined with paper towels. Just pull off the old cartridge and replace the large and small oil filter cap O-rings. Snap a new cartridge on and your good to go. I use a old turkey baster to suck out the small amount of old oil from inside the filter housing.


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      02-07-2013, 08:18 PM   #32
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The oil filter cartridge just snaps onto the oil filter cap. Its normal for it to spin on the cap. First i drain the engine oil from the pan. Then I crack open the filter cap(but don't remove it!)... I let the oil level drain from the filter housing. Then I remove the oil filter cap and cartridge and remove it on a work bench lined with paper towels. Just pull off the old cartridge and replace the large and small oil filter cap O-rings. Snap a new cartridge on and your good to go. I use a old turkey baster to suck out the small amount of old oil from inside the filter housing.


Dackel
Dackel, I think he is having problems with the cap on the engine cover where you top-up the oil
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      02-08-2013, 12:00 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian///M View Post
Dackel, I think he is having problems with the cap on the engine cover where you top-up the oil
Oops! I was realy tired when I replied. The oil filler cap just rotates 90' degrees, counter clock-wise to open it.
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      04-22-2014, 09:02 PM   #34
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for those that don't want to mess with filter spanner, this filter cap works great and its a perfect fit, you'll need 86mm



you can get it on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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      04-23-2014, 08:46 AM   #35
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The one I use is similar and made for bmws and is similar in price, $20. It is Bavarian Auto's part number 05348.
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      09-13-2014, 09:10 PM   #36
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I did this oil change today, pretty straight forward and simple. Thanks for the post, helped me gain some confidence and saved me some time to do this!
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      09-28-2014, 01:36 PM   #37
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Awesome, I'll follow these when I do my own oil change.
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      09-05-2016, 08:48 PM   #38
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Did my oil tonight, glanced at this thread before I proceeded to be sure I wasn't about to miss anything. Thanks again!
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      02-09-2017, 11:42 AM   #39
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I have a few tips to save you some pain.

If you are using a full synthetic oil, it isn't necessary to warm it up. Remember one its benefits is flowing easily at cold temperatures. I do warm it up a bit, but this is from old habits. Also, you won't burn your hands on unscrewing the drain plug.

Next I always roughly measure the drain amount, so I don't overfill. Of course, if you spill the drain all over the garage floor, you are out of luck!

Get an oil filter cap wrench. The plastic caps are easily distorted using anything else. I knew a guy who used the belt for holding up his pants. LOL!

Always loosen up the oil filter cover to allow air into the engine cavity. The oil will drain better.

You really don't need to wait more than a minute of two for the oil to completely drain. There always be a residual amount of oil that'll remain in the engine even if you did the job in the desert and let it drain for a week.

And here is one of the most interesting things about synthetic oil. If you are using a non-synthetic oil, the oil will drain to a much greater extent than a synthetic. In fact, to the point you'll get a dry drain. Synthetic oil has an interesting property due to its molecular shape. You won't get a dry drain, since the oil will tenaciously cling to metal surfaces. This characteristic is why I use it in old cars I keep in storage.
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      06-28-2017, 11:56 PM   #40
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1m oil change

Hi Guys, Changed my oil tonight on my 1m and when I put the oil
cap back on, the surface of the cap and housing didn't touch. There was
a small gap but the green dots lined up. Do I need to go one more turn?

thanks in advance!
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      06-29-2017, 10:03 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metblkbmw View Post
Hi Guys, Changed my oil tonight on my 1m and when I put the oil
cap back on, the surface of the cap and housing didn't touch. There was
a small gap but the green dots lined up. Do I need to go one more turn?

thanks in advance!
There is a rubber gasket on the oil cap. It might be worn away. Maybe replace the cap?
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      07-16-2017, 05:26 PM   #42
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Did my first DIY oil change today, all went well. Mad thanks to RoadRunner///M and Dackelone
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      07-23-2017, 12:25 AM   #43
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Did 135is Oil Change

Oil change was fairly simple for the N55.....straight forward and glad filter is up top.
Didn't hv a ramp so had one jack n jack stands....Pita but did it anyways.....Thx guys
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      10-09-2017, 02:28 PM   #44
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Great write up!

I picked up my 2012 N55 in July '15 with 45k miles.
At 50,000 miles I replaced the oil with Castrol Edge 0W-40 LL-01 European Formula, and a K&N "Pro" filter since that's all I could get at the store. Swapped O-rings.
There were two crush washers mashed together, and the thing was torqued on about double what it should have been. So I got a new bolt and washer from the dealer, got it all squared away, and torqued it right.
All was well.
At 56K I did it again. Same oil, but this time found a MANN filter online.
All fine again. Came with the right crush washer. Did that and O-Rings.
Took a while to locate a source for oil (O'Reilly, PEP Boys, and AutoZone near me stopped carrying the 0W-40 Euro. Can only get it at WalMart anymore. I don't go there often... But the 5qt bottles are quite reasonable.) Also ordered a nice German filter.
At 65k I finally had everything lined up, and free time. Same oil, had a Mahle filter this time. Did that, washer, O-rings. Fine and dandy.

A little over 67k miles, the OFHG sprung a leak. Took it to a trusted indy. He did belt and pulleys at the same time, and the Housing had some stripped threads so he replaced it, too.
Didn't mention oil or filter in the invoice. I can only assume he re-used my old ones.

At 70,500 mi I took it to a "professional" Oil Change shop near my Dad's house since I didn't bring my ramps (duh) and knew I wouldn't get to it for another 1000mi or more if I did it myself. Gave 'em a Bosch Premium filter this time, and 10 quarts of the Castrol oil - told 'em it should take about 7.
They couldn't find the dipstick, and didn't know how to count, so put around 8.5-9 qt in and told me "start it up to measure the level." Um, yeah. I didn't. Took 3 tries and a shouting match, but they finally drained 1.5qt out for me. Started it up, was about 1/4qt lower than "Max." Perfect. I can only assume they replaced the rings and gasket. I asked, they said they did, but didn't show me old parts. Anyway, in the end, all was fine. But never again!

At 75k, I did it my darn self. Same oil, but for some reason thought I'd try a WIX filter.
After doing some more reading, made a note to myself to stick with the Mahle, if possible, in the future.

At 80,000 mile - just last week - it sprang a leak up around the oil filter. Looked the same as when the OFHG went, expect messier and I lost 1/2 qt in 2 days, so I took it back to the same indy for diagnosis and (warranty) repair.
Turns out it was just the large O-Ring on the oil filter cap!
He swapped in an "Original BMW" oil filter, and both O-rings, and sent me on my way.
But, he did note that it was the "wrong" filter and O-Ring, and I should stick with OE.
Planning on the next oil change this weekend.
I'm sure the Genuine filter he just swapped in will be fine, but I don't know if I can bring myself to leave it (and all those trapped particulates!) in there when I let the juice out.

Anywho, trying to follow his advice, I looked up the OE:

RealOEM lists 4 parts for my car, by VIN:
11427541827 from '04 - '06 (not sure why that comes up since mine's a 2012 and the N55 didn't exist yet in '06.)
11427953126 - from '06 to '13 (when my car was manufactured.)
11427566327 from October of '16.
11428683196 from June of '17.

Tischer and Turner tell me to use the ...66327 part.
ECS likes the ...83196 but wants a small fortune for it (surprising, they're usually pretty good.)

FCP Euro tells me to go with the ...83196, but go on to carry it in "Genuine BMW", "OE MANN", "OEM Mahle" and "OEM Hengst".

So, wondering if anyone has anything to say about the pro's/con's/differences between the 11427566327 part and 11428983196 part, as supplied by Mann or Mahle. Do you know which one BMW currently uses/recommends? (Haven't called any dealers yet, but it's on my list of things to do.)
Is there a definitive "best one" at this time, so I can buy a few in advance and not need to scramble at the 5K mark next time, and not get stuck with an inferior product?
What should I use?
What do you use?

Thanks!

Quick update: I called 2 local dealers.
One says to use the ...83196 at $22 each.
Other says ...66327, at $20/ea. But it only comes with the large O-Ring!?!
Calling a third...
He says to use the newest: ...83196 for $17.25/ea. Includes both O-Rings and the crush washer.

Clear as mud...
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