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      10-11-2011, 03:52 PM   #1
KIYO
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Installed aFe Cold Air Intake System Stage 2

A detailed installation manual with pictures are included so it was very straight forward job. It took about 30 minutes.

Product page + installation video
http://afepower.com/shop/details_new...0L&&brandID=53

Before


After




It was not in the installation manual but I have zip tied the cables to the intake pipe.


I did not expect power increase but instead, I want more sharp response of the engine. I have done some 5000 km after installation, I feel engine response is more sharper in any RPM and more powerful in the higher RPM than the OEM air cleaner box. Also intake air temperature is lowered. Thus more molecules of oxygen in the cylinder = more power.


As you see in the picture, I have fitted HKS BOV with a custom made adapter to fit into the OEM charge pipe.

After the installation, the sound of sucking in the air and the sound of the turbo is heard form inside the car. Also, sometimes I can hear the back turbine sound. I am not sure how you call this sound in English.

It is not my car but the sound is like this.

HKS BOV


Back turbine

Last edited by KIYO; 10-11-2011 at 04:00 PM.
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      10-11-2011, 03:58 PM   #2
Gtrain
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looks great. time to dyno to see if there are any gains
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      10-11-2011, 04:34 PM   #3
robertm
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What prevents these from sucking in completely heat soaked air? It appears in the first pic that the stock intake is entirely encapsulated and blocked off from air under the hood. The new product looks like it will be very much exposed to under the hood air. Is there another cover or something not shown in the pic?
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      10-11-2011, 04:50 PM   #4
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i installed the same kit and am very happy with the results.
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      10-11-2011, 04:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertm View Post
What prevents these from sucking in completely heat soaked air? It appears in the first pic that the stock intake is entirely encapsulated and blocked off from air under the hood. The new product looks like it will be very much exposed to under the hood air. Is there another cover or something not shown in the pic?
According to Terry at Burger the volume is much more important than the temperature... ie high volume with high temps = more power. Ideally you'd want lower temps but you sacrifice volume to get it.

I believe there is data posted on the N54 forums
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      10-11-2011, 05:05 PM   #6
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Thanks for sharing your experience with the intake. Enjoy!
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      10-11-2011, 06:03 PM   #7
robertm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papethova View Post
According to Terry at Burger the volume is much more important than the temperature... ie high volume with high temps = more power. Ideally you'd want lower temps but you sacrifice volume to get it.

I believe there is data posted on the N54 forums

That may very well be true but wouldn't you get so much more benefit by fully enclosing the air intake as well as increasing the volume? Ie high volume and low temp = most power.
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      10-11-2011, 06:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertm View Post
That may very well be true but wouldn't you get so much more benefit by fully enclosing the air intake as well as increasing the volume? Ie high volume and low temp = most power.
Yes. Note how race teams run their intake ducting. If this box was enclosed it needs a bigger duct running to it so that the box has the least amount of pressure drop across the opening.
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      10-11-2011, 06:36 PM   #9
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KIYO,


I think your intake scoups are backwards. Try swapping the left for the right.
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      10-11-2011, 08:47 PM   #10
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To each his own, but the screaming sound of a blow off valve does not belong on a BMW. Sounds like $hit IMO.
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      10-11-2011, 09:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRoboto View Post
To each his own, but the screaming sound of a blow off valve does not belong on a BMW. Sounds like $hit IMO.
Lol, It's not like we are running 80psi or anything. You can even hear the stock diverter valves with a Dual Cone Intake.

To each their own, but I do not think a proper BOV sounds like screaming, and they sound appropriate on ANY turbo car, considering it is a necessary and functional part of the turbo system.....
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      10-11-2011, 10:10 PM   #12
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HAHAHAHAHA love the sound of the s14. Sounds like a couple of chipmunks giggling
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      10-11-2011, 11:05 PM   #13
Papethova
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertm View Post
That may very well be true but wouldn't you get so much more benefit by fully enclosing the air intake as well as increasing the volume? Ie high volume and low temp = most power.
Ya but the point being that you dont get enough increase in volume with a box... or the extra volume with exposed cones outweighs the loss from the increased temps and provides bigger gains versus less volume lower temp set ups.

Best case scenario you want no limit on volume with absolute low temps, but its a trade off and according to the data I had seen years ago it looked like the increase in temps wasnt holding back the gains. The bottleneck was the volume. Not saying Im right, just saying what I read (specifically related to the N54).
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      10-12-2011, 08:52 AM   #14
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Thanks for the comments.
Thank you Das Ein, I will check them.

Yes that is all the parts. So in a stand still, I think it is sucking in the hot air inside the engine room.
When the car is moving, although some of the hot air might sucked in but there should be enough cold air flowing into the air filter.
Let's wait and see what happens in the hot summer.
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      10-12-2011, 08:58 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIYO View Post
So in a stand still, I think it is sucking in the hot air inside the engine room.
When the car is moving, although some of the hot air might sucked in but there should be enough cold air flowing into the air filter.
Let's wait and see what happens in the hot summer.
I think for this exact reason, you'd be hard pressed to find good dyno numbers for this mod. It's most effective when the vehicle is actually moving.
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      10-13-2011, 10:27 AM   #16
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I have noticed that with the cold intake, the intake temperature is a bit too cold.
DAS will be removed for the winter.
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      10-13-2011, 10:42 AM   #17
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Which are what?

Quote:
Originally Posted by zayzay View Post
i installed the same kit and am very happy with the results.
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      10-13-2011, 11:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIYO View Post
I have noticed that with the cold intake, the intake temperature is a bit too cold.
DAS will be removed for the winter.
Too cold intake temps? How did you figure that?
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      10-13-2011, 11:49 AM   #19
KIYO
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The Scangauge is connected to the OBD port to monitor.
With the cooler temperature, the intake air temperature is around 20 degrees C.

The blow pic was taken on a hot day. 27 degrees Celsius.
VLT is the volt, MAP is the intake manifold pressure in kPa, IA is intake air temperature, WT is water temperature.

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      10-13-2011, 01:26 PM   #20
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Oh i understood that you can gather data from the DME, but I'm wondering why you think the intake temps are too cold. I don't really think there is a point to where your IATs were too cold unless it was throwing your A/F mixure off, freezing fuel/water or any physical hardware, which at 69C i don't think it is.
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      10-13-2011, 03:03 PM   #21
KIYO
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There is no scientific report nor evidence but based on my tuner advice, I become to believe the intake air temperature of around 40 degrees C is the optimal temperature. He has done a lot to turbo tuning on various cars and he has concluded based on his experience, around 40 degrees C will produce the maximum power.

Too cold intake temperature will end up in too rich fuel/air ratio thus black muffler end.
I am not sure how our direct injection management is handling it but I am experiencing power drop in the current cold weather.

My previous cars were NA cars. They produce more power in the cold weather. I had no confidence of the tuner advice until I had experienced the power drop in the recent cold weather.

May be something else is the cause of the power drop. I am in quest of the cause.
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      10-13-2011, 03:24 PM   #22
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All types of induction have potential for more power in cooler weather at the same altitude, whether it be turbo, supercharged or naturally aspirated. The more oxygen available, the more potential power, assuming no fuel or material strength limitations.

BMW's normal software targets lower boost levels to compensate for the extra air density of cooler weather. That could be the cause of your perceived power loss.

Do some logs now, and see what your boost pressure is. It should become higher as it warms up.

Also, you will only get full boost if your Oil Temp is over 160F or 71C. If you go WOT before that, your car will feel much slower.
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