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      11-03-2011, 03:01 PM   #1
igzekyativ
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Where to place jack stands?!

I am having trouble putting the car on 4 jack stands...

The problem I am trying to avoid is damaging the 4 plastic jack points with the jack stands that I place underneath of them like this..



once the car is sitting on the jack points like in the picture above, the plastic piece gets bent and broken and my jack adapter (http://www.n54tech.com/forums/attach...1&d=1295845100) does not fit...

where else can you put the jack stands? any other recommendations?
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      11-03-2011, 03:58 PM   #2
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In the front there is a spot designed for lifting the car so I place a stand there.

In the rear I place the stands on the part of the subframe the goes up and over the differential.

I only use the jack pads to actually lift the car with the floor jack.
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      11-03-2011, 04:10 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e34m5 View Post
In the front there is a spot designed for lifting the car so I place a stand there.

In the rear I place the stands on the part of the subframe the goes up and over the differential.

I only use the jack pads to actually lift the car with the floor jack.
so you only use 3 jack stands? one in the front center (where you lift it up with a floor jack) and two in the back? that doesn't sound safe...
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      11-03-2011, 04:26 PM   #4
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Jack up the rear side with jack, then slip jack stand on the front pad. repeat other side. Then jack up rear at diff jack point, then slip 2 jack stands on each rear pad.
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      11-03-2011, 04:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianf2002 View Post
Jack up the rear side with jack, then slip jack stand on the front pad. repeat other side. Then jack up rear at diff jack point, then slip 2 jack stands on each rear pad.
this does not solve the problem I am trying to avoid.. placing the jack stands under the plastic pads results in damage to the plastic piece...
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      11-03-2011, 04:37 PM   #6
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My stands have rubber inserts and have not damaged the jack points. I also turn mine the other way around to how your photo shows
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      11-03-2011, 05:13 PM   #7
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this question on where to safely lift car with floor jack & where to exactly place floor jack is a common concern in all the different car forums that I've have joined over the 25yrs.

it would be nice if someone would make a DIY with pics for 1 series BMW
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      11-03-2011, 07:47 PM   #8
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OK, I do not have pics..but will try this with words. The above post is correct re: a flat topped jack and jack stands. There are lots of good stands around, but if they do not have a flat top then you risk the damage. I personally popped for the pricier ESCO tripod style, with those great flat rubber insert top. No Y tops this time for me. Yup, someone will say there are cheaper versions, but I do not regret I have but one life to donate to this car--and liked the peace of mind. If you can afford the car, you afford good equipment.

I use the Sears larger aluminum jack with again the flat top rubber insert. It is their lowest and strongest model..and slips under the both ends of car.
I jack the rear from dead center at the point where the two bars come together at the diff...NOT on the diff as you did with your Mustang. Once up, then I center the jack stands under the rubber blocks and lower carefully down.

For the front, and if car is going four corners up, I used to place a large, 2X8 square section of wood JUST forward of the front rubber blocks. This is safe and wood dispurses the weight. Once up high enough, I insert the flat top jack under the rubber block. I now go in from the front dead center, place jack under the front cross beam, lift and place stands under front rubber blocks and lower down. This is a bit faster, in that you are not jacking the front one side at a time...and personally prefer coming in from front as I do not like the car "skewed" on 3 stands while I rush to get the 4th in place on the other side. Make sense?...so from the front is quick, safe and easy. BUT the wood will work if its just forward of the rubber blocks.

Most "Y" stands are not made for the blocks; and your inserts are also made for flat top jacks. Not sure why they are not working etc. I personally made my own out of oak...and they work great, but now do not even use them, since getting the better stands.

Sorry no pics..but MAYbe this helped someone a bit...PM me if you wish any further info. Bests all...and good luck. My counsel, is do it right or don't do it. I have a friend who lost his son under an improperly jacked up British sports car...not a good when he was discovered. Make sure things are proper, sound and solid...your life or the car depends upon not taking short cuts.
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      11-03-2011, 08:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zkeeper View Post
but if they do not have a flat top then you risk the damage. I personally popped for the pricier ESCO tripod style, with those great flat rubber insert top. No Y tops this time for me. Yup, someone will say there are cheaper versions, but I do not regret I have but one life to donate to this car--and liked the peace of mind.
+1000
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      11-03-2011, 08:26 PM   #10
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See this:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...ht=jack&page=3
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      11-03-2011, 08:34 PM   #11
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I use these adaptors from Reverse Logic and I think they're great. There's a circular "hockey puck" style adaptor to fit your floor jack and then a pair of jack stand adaptors.
http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...Pad_Tools.html
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      11-03-2011, 08:43 PM   #12
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I actually like that the jackstands bite into the plastic jacking points. Makes me confident that the car will not move around even when using gigantic wrenches (disconnecting drive shaft).

To avoid cosmetic damage, a flat top jack and jack stands are needed.

Also, the process above is correct.
1. Jack rear side
2. Slide jackstand under front jacking point
3. Lower jack
4. Jack center jacking point in the front
5. Slide jackstand #2 under other front jacking point
6. Lower jack
7. Jack from diff jacking point (rear)
8. Slide jackstands #3, #4 under rear jacking points.
9. Lower jack

if you want to raise from this point, use your jack under the central jacking points. If you need to go higher, use wood blocks between your jack and jacking point to car. Go slow and steady and raise jackstands one click at a time.
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      11-03-2011, 09:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianf2002 View Post
ok, the pic showing undercarriage of car & points out contact points for jacking really helps, thxs ..."a picture is worth a thousand words".
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      11-04-2011, 05:42 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublegbmw View Post
ok, the pic showing undercarriage of car & points out contact points for jacking really helps, thxs ..."a picture is worth a thousand words".
In case anyone prefers photos,

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...18#post6328918
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      11-04-2011, 08:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianf2002 View Post
My stands have rubber inserts and have not damaged the jack points. I also turn mine the other way around to how your photo shows
what are these rubber inserts? do you have the Y shaped jack stands?

Did a quick google search.. something like this? http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_14656.jpg

does the plastic bend/get damaged once the cars weight is on the jack stands?

Quote:
Originally Posted by zkeeper View Post
The above post is correct re: a flat topped jack and jack stands. There are lots of good stands around, but if they do not have a flat top then you risk the damage. I personally popped for the pricier ESCO tripod style, with those great flat rubber insert top. No Y tops this time for me. Yup, someone will say there are cheaper versions, but I do not regret I have but one life to donate to this car--and liked the peace of mind. If you can afford the car, you afford good equipment.
So basically, to avoid damage, I must get a flat top jack stand (and maybe an adapter to sit on top of the flat top jack stand)? Anyone looking to buy 4 used Y top jack stands?!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob View Post
I use these adaptors from Reverse Logic and I think they're great. There's a circular "hockey puck" style adaptor to fit your floor jack and then a pair of jack stand adaptors.
http://www.reverselogic.us/ReverseLo...Pad_Tools.html
I have the adapter for the floor jack, but I guess I need to go get some flat top jack stands and four jack stand adapters

wish they had jack stand adapters for Y shaped stands!!



And just to confirm, there is no safe place to hold the car up with 4 Y shaped jack stands?


Thanks everyone!
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Last edited by igzekyativ; 11-04-2011 at 08:21 AM.
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      11-04-2011, 08:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igzekyativ View Post
what are these rubber inserts? do you have the Y shaped jack stands?

does the plastic bend/get damaged once the cars weight is on the jack stands?
they are Y shaped, but much narrower than your photo. They are lined with non slip rubber. Your position shows Y back to front position, I placed mine door to door position...nice and snug and no jack point damage.
Don't really use jack stands much as bough a set of Rhino ramps!
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      11-04-2011, 08:53 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianf2002 View Post
Don't really use jack stands much as bough a set of Rhino ramps!
I need the stands so that I can swap summer and winter tires.. also, much easier to clean the wheels if I can just pop them off really quick..
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      11-04-2011, 08:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igzekyativ View Post
wish they had jack stand adapters for Y shaped stands!!
Not saying there isn't a better approach, but I have no problems with the Reverse Logic jack stand adapters and Y shaped jack stands.
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      11-04-2011, 09:00 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
Not saying there isn't a better approach, but I have no problems with the Reverse Logic jack stand adapters and Y shaped jack stands.
got a picture of how you do this?
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      11-04-2011, 09:20 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igzekyativ View Post
got a picture of how you do this?
I'm starting to wonder if we're talking about the same thing. To make sure, these are the jack stands I have:



I insert the adapter just like the piece of wood you can see in this pic (borrowed from another thread), place the stands sideways like the red ones, and lower onto the stands. These stands are flatter than mine, and I guess my stands are flatter than yours, so maybe it won't fit, but there's no problem with my stands.

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      11-04-2011, 10:05 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryS View Post
I'm starting to wonder if we're talking about the same thing. To make sure, these are the jack stands I have:



I insert the adapter just like the piece of wood you can see in this pic (borrowed from another thread), place the stands sideways like the red ones, and lower onto the stands. These stands are flatter than mine, and I guess my stands are flatter than yours, so maybe it won't fit, but there's no problem with my stands.
Yea, those stands seem flatter than mine...
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      11-04-2011, 12:49 PM   #22
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The secret to not damaging the plastic jacking spots is to put something into them. I use 3/4 baltic birch plywood pieces. Others have reported using short pieces of rectangular steel tube. There is a commercially supplied aluminum piece. The plastic is not made to interface directly with a jack or jack stand. With a little wood block you can jack with a normal floor jack with no damage. I made two piece wood blocks for my jack stands becaue they have a hole in the center of the contact point. If you have a table saw and a little scrap wood, it is very simple to make these up. If not, steel tubing might work better for you. If you do not want to mess with making something yourself, you can order the aluminum piece.

Some have also reported good luck with a piece of a hockey puck trimmed down to fit into the opening.

Jim
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