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      01-09-2015, 09:37 AM   #1
kiysersosae
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Stock clutch and dmfw cost from bmw

Just for info, this is what I have just been quoted to have my clutch and flywheel replaced. I run around 400bhp but will probably just stay with stock clutch and fly because I can't be arsed putting a different clutch in if the dmfw may fail anyway plus, I might have some comeback if BMW do it

Clutch £451.00

flywheel + bolts £1124.70 (there may be additonal costs for any lubricants needed such as gearbox oil)

Labour for fitting £604.80



Total costs inc VAT £2180.50
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      01-09-2015, 10:51 AM   #2
Em/1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiysersosae View Post
Just for info, this is what I have just been quoted to have my clutch and flywheel replaced. I run around 400bhp but will probably just stay with stock clutch and fly because I can't be arsed putting a different clutch in if the dmfw may fail anyway plus, I might have some comeback if BMW do it

Clutch £451.00

flywheel + bolts £1124.70 (there may be additonal costs for any lubricants needed such as gearbox oil)

Labour for fitting £604.80



Total costs inc VAT £2180.50
Do you need to replace the flywheel when doing a clutch?
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      01-09-2015, 06:17 PM   #3
kiysersosae
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I thought replacing the flywheel and clutch was the norm on the 1m?

Do i only need to do the clutch?
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      01-09-2015, 07:50 PM   #4
Dackelone
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I would replace both clutch (disc, pressure plate & release bearing) AND also your dmfw AND all the hardware bolts and your rear crankshaft main seal. So many 1M's left the factory with bad rear main seals.

Also... lots of guys use(upgrade) to the 550i(f10) clutch.

ecs clutch kits...
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-1_M...etrain/Clutch/
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      01-10-2015, 01:05 AM   #5
kiysersosae
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Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
I would replace both clutch (disc, pressure plate & release bearing) AND also your dmfw AND all the hardware bolts and your rear crankshaft main seal. So many 1M's left the factory with bad rear main seals.

Also... lots of guys use(upgrade) to the 550i(f10) clutch.

ecs clutch kits...
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-1_M...etrain/Clutch/
Yeah i think its safer to just replace the lot then i wont need to worry, event though il be skint for a month.

I would love to get a clutch and the DMFW from them -ECS- but by the time i ship it and pay 20% import duty, have it fitted, id be the same for getting it done at BMW.

I wonder if BMW would fit the 550i(f10) if i ask them too!? whats the part number and il ask?

Cheers for the info.
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      02-07-2015, 04:03 AM   #6
kiysersosae
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Dropped the car off at BMW yesterday and was told that because the car only had 15000miles that If the clutch is faulty because of the seal or something else then they would happily replace it as a good will gesture which I thought was really good of them.

I got the phone call today that the flywheel is fine so only the clutch will need replaced and although the crankshaft seal was leaking it had not affected the flywheel or clutch so I will need to pay for the clutch. They said also that becuase my car had exhaust, intercooler, air filter that declares it as modified so they can't help me out on this occasion. They will replace the seal (£70).

All in all £1200 for the work and clutch. I choose to modify the car so I can't argue that the extra power could / did wreck clutch..

BMW are going to show me the video they took when replacing the clutch which shows the condition of the flywheel too....will post when I get it
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      02-11-2015, 09:38 AM   #7
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Hello,

My car was 5000 Km when begin having clutch slipping.
We replace the clutch with Sachs performance clutch and pressure plate.
This kit lived for 10000 km then begin to slip again.
My car is only 382 hp but deliver 630nm of torque which is a lot.
After consulting expert into tuning bmw car for rallying they say me
"once a clutch have slipped just one big taim the heat generated will have curved the flywheel even if you can't notice it. After this the friction is never optimal again."
So, when upgrading/replacing a clutch (& pressure plate) you need to replace the flywheel too !
It cost me 2900 euros to do the stuff.
ECU remapped so no warranty but by the way the car is 3 years old so warranty is obsolete AND clutch are most of the time not taken under warranty.
Now this is the joint before the differential who is failing, loosing oil and it smell like hell when riding. Giving me clutch problem idea but no, this is not this new one.

Mods are:
- CDV removed
- ECU remap to 382hp/630nm torque
- Air Filter
- Goodridge brake line
- Pagid Yellow brake pads
- Sachs Performance Organic Clutch disk + High pressure plate (rated to 600nm)
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      02-11-2015, 03:27 PM   #8
kiysersosae
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xavierbest View Post
Hello,

My car was 5000 Km when begin having clutch slipping.
We replace the clutch with Sachs performance clutch and pressure plate.
This kit lived for 10000 km then begin to slip again.
My car is only 382 hp but deliver 630nm of torque which is a lot.
After consulting expert into tuning bmw car for rallying they say me
"once a clutch have slipped just one big taim the heat generated will have curved the flywheel even if you can't notice it. After this the friction is never optimal again."
So, when upgrading/replacing a clutch (& pressure plate) you need to replace the flywheel too !
It cost me 2900 euros to do the stuff.
ECU remapped so no warranty but by the way the car is 3 years old so warranty is obsolete AND clutch are most of the time not taken under warranty.
Now this is the joint before the differential who is failing, loosing oil and it smell like hell when riding. Giving me clutch problem idea but no, this is not this new one.

Mods are:
- CDV removed
- ECU remap to 382hp/630nm torque
- Air Filter
- Goodridge brake line
- Pagid Yellow brake pads
- Sachs Performance Organic Clutch disk + High pressure plate (rated to 600nm)
If I have read what you say correctly I would have to disagree with the expert, if the flywheel was "curved" I'm assuming you mean warped..? The vibration from the flywheel would un-bearable and it could possibly destroy itself.

In regards to the friction, if the flywheel was maybe uneven, and I'm talking microns at the surface, The new clutch would eventually mate to the flywheel, that's why it's always best to do a break in of around 500miles, to allow any surface irregularity to be picked up on the surface of the new clutch.

As I've said before... I managed 15000miles on the standard clutch with approx 415 - 430 bhp and a of the top of my head 500ft lbs tourque figure. I did have leaking crankshaft seal but apparently it wasn't on the clutch or flywheel.
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      02-11-2015, 05:53 PM   #9
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On a seperate note, I've run 530lbft on the oem clutch for nearly 30k miles now.
I Never drive with the tc on as it kicks in all the time.
I turn it off upon starting the engine.
I'm 100% certain that all these premature clutch failures are down to the stability management.
It applies the brakes to stop the rear end from even slightly slipping,
thus burning the clutch out when the throttle is demanding full power.

Sorry to see BMW wouldnt cover you on this matter- personally i would of got an uprated clutch fitted by a reputable independent bmw specialist- (better quality products fitted for less)?.

Where abouts in the UK are you based?

Cheers Jamie
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SPEC R intercooler & hard pipe kit, carbotec xp10 brake pads, Hel brakelines, Evolve Decat pipe, n55 midpipes, RAY WEST TUNING custom re map & geometry set up.
454/530 WHP/LBFT
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      02-19-2015, 02:46 AM   #10
kiysersosae
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octainejunkee View Post
On a seperate note, I've run 530lbft on the oem clutch for nearly 30k miles now.
I Never drive with the tc on as it kicks in all the time.
I turn it off upon starting the engine.
I'm 100% certain that all these premature clutch failures are down to the stability management.
It applies the brakes to stop the rear end from even slightly slipping,
thus burning the clutch out when the throttle is demanding full power.

Sorry to see BMW wouldnt cover you on this matter- personally i would of got an uprated clutch fitted by a reputable independent bmw specialist- (better quality products fitted for less)?.

Where abouts in the UK are you based?

Cheers Jamie
MAybe it is the traction control maybe not but il see how this clutch goes, hopefully it will last longer than 15000miles as im only running around the same ft/lbs as you know.

Im up in Edinburgh where are you?
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      02-20-2015, 04:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octainejunkee View Post
On a seperate note, I've run 530lbft on the oem clutch for nearly 30k miles now.
I Never drive with the tc on as it kicks in all the time.
I turn it off upon starting the engine.
I'm 100% certain that all these premature clutch failures are down to the stability management.
It applies the brakes to stop the rear end from even slightly slipping,
thus burning the clutch out when the throttle is demanding full power.

Sorry to see BMW wouldnt cover you on this matter- personally i would of got an uprated clutch fitted by a reputable independent bmw specialist- (better quality products fitted for less)?.

Where abouts in the UK are you based?

Cheers Jamie
I have the same problem with the clutch, and i used my car for 30ish lap on the nordschleife, 25 of these laps with mdm on...Now i use only stock map, and i change gear slower than before, but the problem still remain...
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      03-01-2015, 11:42 PM   #12
kiysersosae
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibbo21 View Post
I have the same problem with the clutch, and i used my car for 30ish lap on the nordschleife, 25 of these laps with mdm on...Now i use only stock map, and i change gear slower than before, but the problem still remain...
Yeah you need it changed, and i would do it sooner rather than later because if you leave it to long and it slips on a regular basis it could screw the DMFW and then you will need to replace both. Luckly mine only slipped about 4 times before i took care of it so the DMFW was in the condition a Flywheel should be for a car with 15000miles. DMFW costs another 1000gbp!
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